Print Page - water temp reading

Title: water temp reading
Post by: zed on January 03, 2007, 04:23:26 PM

hi
anyone know what water temp readings are safe.ive got a apexi fc.

cheers

Title: water temp reading
Post by: Jono FD3 on January 03, 2007, 04:35:39 PM

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30047

Title: water temp reading
Post by: antnicuk on January 03, 2007, 04:40:20 PM

this is the bit you need:

7. Optimum Temps
65C (150F): too cold. According to service manual, EGR valve is non-operational below 150F, "to improve drivability when cold."
82C (180F): getting warm. Thermostat begins to open, circulating coolant through the radiator. Some coolant is still bypassing the radiator.
95C (203F): fully warm. Thermostat is fully open, not bypassing the radiator at all.
100C (212F): boiling point of pure water at atmospheric pressure.
108C (226F): getting hot. Stock 93-95 coolant thermoswitch activates, changing fan speeds from low>> medium (if A/C is already on) (switching to an FC thermoswitch will change this temp to 203F)
110C (230F): fully hot. Stock ECU will activate fans to cool the car down. Fan speed will be medium, or high (if A/C is already on).
115C (240F): getting dangerous. OEM temp gauge begins to rise.
117C (243F): dangerous. boiling point of pure water with 13psi pressure cap.
121C (250F): too hot. OEM temp gauge will point to white line. Boiling point of pure water with 16psi pressure cap.
124C (256F): way too hot. Boiling point of pure water with 19psi pressure cap. Boiling point of 50/50 coolant mix with 13psi pressure cap.
127C (260F): way too hot. OEM temp gauge will point to red line.

Title: reply
Post by: zed on January 03, 2007, 04:40:27 PM

thanks Jono

Title: water temp reading
Post by: andysmee on January 03, 2007, 04:40:54 PM

see above!!!!

Title: reply
Post by: zed on January 03, 2007, 04:42:54 PM

thanks everyone.

Title: water temp reading
Post by: Laeeq on January 03, 2007, 04:54:09 PM

Quote from: antnicukthis is the bit you need:

7. Optimum Temps
65C (150F): too cold. According to service manual, EGR valve is non-operational below 150F, "to improve drivability when cold."
82C (180F): getting warm. Thermostat begins to open, circulating coolant through the radiator. Some coolant is still bypassing the radiator.
95C (203F): fully warm. Thermostat is fully open, not bypassing the radiator at all.
100C (212F): boiling point of pure water at atmospheric pressure.
108C (226F): getting hot. Stock 93-95 coolant thermoswitch activates, changing fan speeds from low>> medium (if A/C is already on) (switching to an FC thermoswitch will change this temp to 203F)
110C (230F): fully hot. Stock ECU will activate fans to cool the car down. Fan speed will be medium, or high (if A/C is already on).
115C (240F): getting dangerous. OEM temp gauge begins to rise.
117C (243F): dangerous. boiling point of pure water with 13psi pressure cap.
121C (250F): too hot. OEM temp gauge will point to white line. Boiling point of pure water with 16psi pressure cap.
124C (256F): way too hot. Boiling point of pure water with 19psi pressure cap. Boiling point of 50/50 coolant mix with 13psi pressure cap.
127C (260F): way too hot. OEM temp gauge will point to red line.

So, my water temps recently when cruising had been very very cold...last night on the way back from Ace Cafe it was 58 at one point. So is that too cold? I am seeing these temps because the gramlite bumper has a biger openning + i have a colder thermo but them water temps seems a bit too low??:2eek ;)

Mazda Rotary Club

General => General Technical => Topic started by: zed on January 03, 2007, 04:23:26 PM