I`ve done a search but not come up with much, all I want to know is what is bridgeporting? as to street porting! thanks in advance Ade :Thumbs-up
Basicly Extended (or Street port) is Enlarged within the bounds of the Side seal and Oil Scraper ring so it Phisicly looks like a Stock port but bigger.....
Bridge Ports are basicly an Extended Port with an Extra Port cut next to it too make the voluum of air it can flow increase, The reason every one Leaves a strip of metal running through the Port (or the Bridge) is so the Corner seal/Side seal has something to run on (so it doesn\'t fall into the Port)
Thank you very much for that Grizzly much appreciated:Thumbs-up
sorry to drag this up, have been told if you are to run a bridge port you loose the servo assist on your brakes, is this true?
Quote from: Little_antsorry to drag this up, have been told if you are to run a bridge port you loose the servo assist on your brakes, is this true?
I wonder who you have been talking to? I cant see why you would think porting would affect your servo:xconfused
Quote from: Little_antsorry to drag this up, have been told if you are to run a bridge port you loose the servo assist on your brakes, is this true?
Yes it is true that you can lose some of the servo assist on reasonable size bridgeports.
This is because you do not get as much vacuum on over run especially at lower rpm.
Regards
Carl
as said above, a decent bridge will produce less vacuum press in the manifold, and therefore will effect the servo assist system, ive seen this on a bridge.
rmaj
yes I have lost a little servo assist at low rpm since the bridge, but you get used to it and just learn to push the brake pedal more
same as, it is disconcerting the first time it happens as it doesn\'t always mean that you have lost servo assist, but again, like Blitzboy said - you just learn to stamp on the brakes harder!
When i ran my Bridge i fitted a Assist Tank to the Servo and it did make quite a Diffrence.
But yes the Brakes do go a bit hard, Another Perk of the overlap effect.
Where did you buy the Assist Tank Grizz?
Summit Racing in the US but i would imagen it would not be hard to make one up?
Quote from: GrizzlyBasicly Extended (or Street port) is Enlarged within the bounds of the Side seal and Oil Scraper ring so it Phisicly looks like a Stock port but bigger.....
Bridge Ports are basicly an Extended Port with an Extra Port cut next to it too make the voluum of air it can flow increase, The reason every one Leaves a strip of metal running through the Port (or the Bridge) is so the Corner seal/Side seal has something to run on (so it doesn\'t fall into the Port)
griz do u reckon i have gone a bit overboard with mine on inner o ring wall thickness, your pick looks a bit thicker than mine on wall but my bridge slot looks a bit wider, by the way mine need polishing out yet!
Well it would work but TBH if it was me i\'d have left a bit more on, You don\'t want to go any more.
Oh OK had not considered the vacuum nice to learn about these things, is it very noticable or is it just a bit more pressure on the brakes
it does not happen all the time, but you realise you have to really hit the pedal hard to stop the car a very low speeds
I found it more at Low speed (Traffic etc), Its more of a Brown pants moment than anything, I never had a problem when i was out Playing.
Its just one of those things that happens once and you do some thing about. Alot of people just get rid of the Servo and fit a Proper ballance Brake System (as most Turbo Bridges are built with one thing in Mind ;))
I have a half bridge on my FD, never had a problem with braking tho, or shall i say a noticeable problem. Vacuum is much less on idle than a street port, due to overlap and blow by.
Stuart you got a bit close to the water jacket there on your port!!! Don\'t want it much thinner than that cos it could cause you all sorts of problems!!
Blitz Boy - didn\'t realise u went bridge! How do you like it compared to your street ported block? Take it u kept the same turbo setup??
You can go way further than that into the water jacket.Well past the inner coolnat "O" rings.
You just need to know what you are doing.
Regards
Carl
Yeh but J Ports are renound for being short life engines, You realy want to keep the O ring in one piece if you want a good water seal.
Quote from: GrizzlyYeh but J Ports are renound for being short life engines, You realy want to keep the O ring in one piece if you want a good water seal.
they are ok if you do certain mods to cope with it.
Regards;)
Carl
Ok
I admit i have never done a J port but is there not an issue with the Rotor housing cut outs? I did think about it a while back but i was told as soon as you cut the Water seals its very hard too 100% seal the Port on a high HP Engine.
I still would say keep the water seals but thats only My Opinion, J Ports seem a bit to OTT for me.
Quote from: dreI have a half bridge on my FD, never had a problem with braking tho, or shall i say a noticeable problem. Vacuum is much less on idle than a street port, due to overlap and blow by.
The Brake issue becomes More Ovious the Bigger the Bridge you do, a half Bridge will not be too bad (Proberly only Notice every so often or slightly hard pedle) a Full Bridge you may Notice it a Bit more to the degree you may get a Dodgy Moment in Trafic when your Brakes sudenly go Very Hard :)
Quote from: dreBlitz Boy - didn\'t realise u went bridge! How do you like it compared to your street ported block? Take it u kept the same turbo setup??
yeah went Half Bridge in October, the Mid range is awesome on the same turbo setup , running less boost pressure for the same power, spools up real quick feels like twins on low rpm
I have lost alot of vaccum at low revs on mine. Just need to keep the revs up to 2k and its fine or leave a big space from the car in front to get ready to jump on the brakes.
anyone got any pics of a j port, i take it u cut through the water jacket and fill with epoxy, flat out to plate surface then cut another groove in epoxy further back, thats a guess by the way
pics please
Not a good pic but you get the Idea.
I could fill and flat out the pink bit with epoxy, mill a slot out same width and depth as red slot mark (that ive drawn), and open the port up to the start of the yellow line( to leave some wall strength). then cutting the o ring so it goes round the new slot, u would have 1 join in the o ring somewhere in the new slot that has been cut because the original o oring wouldnt be long enough.
I thought about doing this a while back actually but i didnt know if the combustion ring would bend at 90deg round the slot, I will try it with a dud side plate sometime.
Quote from: stuart wizyI could fill and flat out the pink bit with epoxy, mill a slot out same width and depth as red slot mark (that ive drawn), and open the port up to the start of the yellow line( to leave some wall strength). then cutting the o ring so it goes round the new slot, u would have 1 join in the o ring somewhere in the new slot that has been cut because the original o oring wouldnt be long enough.
I thought about doing this a while back actually but i didnt know if the combustion ring would bend at 90deg round the slot, I will try it with a dud side plate sometime.
heres the pic
Don\'t forget the Rotor Housings would need to be matched to the Plates.
Digging deep into the archives here has anyone got any better pics of a j-port and on a bridge port,what is the depth of the bridge? finally without considering other factors such as turbo\'s and suporting mods what is the most bhp output of different ports such as street,half bridge, full bridge,and j ports