Seeing as I\'ve given up trying to do this on the quiet, I may as well ask for pointers and help openly!! *grin*
righto -
Engine stands - Am I right in thinking I\'d need some sort of conversion plate for the engine to mount onto the engine stand? Is this worthwhile, or is it just as easy to to a build on the floor of the garage?
- Exhaust - This is going to have to be a custom jobby, but presumably this will require getting the car to an exhaust builder? Or if I got a manifold sorted, is there likely to be someone mobile that can do this?
- Microtech LT10 - does anyone happen to know where a second hand one coule be sourced? Anyone got experience in mapping the buggers?
- Brake improvements - is there a brake conversion anyone on here has had success with on a first gen? Does this result in a different stud pattern and offset?
- Sunroof - mine is dodgy - shotblasting it has kinda left me with a piece of metal the same shape as australia... Any decent condition one\'s that don\'t need welding???
- Rechroming - Can anyone recommend someone for this?
help on any of the above would be very welcome!!
Cheers
OJ
Christ almighty ...you ARE alive!!!
Rmaj
Quote from: rmagictasticChrist almighty ...you ARE alive!!!
Barely... am "working from home" today, so obviously am flat out... *GRIN*
how the hell is everyone?? Miss me??? *GRIN*
Quote from: ArchbishBarely... am "working from home" today, so obviously am flat out... *GRIN*
how the hell is everyone?? Miss me??? *GRIN*
NO,NEVER you overgrown person you :spank What you think Bish ?:Laugh Of course we miss you bud......................:yes
Quote from: oldoneNO,NEVER you overgrown person you :spank What you think Bish ?:Laugh Of course we miss you bud......................:yes
awwwwwwwwww - I love you dude!! *grin*
So what\'s been happening while I\'ve been away???? TELL ME DAMMIT
LT10 - you need to look on ausrotary for one - you will need to be quick - cause i want one aswell :D
and glad to see you are still OK matey :D
Quote from: ArchbishSeeing as I\'ve given up trying to do this on the quiet, I may as well ask for pointers and help openly!! *grin*
righto -
Engine stands - Am I right in thinking I\'d need some sort of conversion plate for the engine to mount onto the engine stand? Is this worthwhile, or is it just as easy to to a build on the floor of the garage?
- Exhaust - This is going to have to be a custom jobby, but presumably this will require getting the car to an exhaust builder? Or if I got a manifold sorted, is there likely to be someone mobile that can do this?
- Microtech LT10 - does anyone happen to know where a second hand one coule be sourced? Anyone got experience in mapping the buggers?
- Brake improvements - is there a brake conversion anyone on here has had success with on a first gen? Does this result in a different stud pattern and offset?
- Sunroof - mine is dodgy - shotblasting it has kinda left me with a piece of metal the same shape as australia... Any decent condition one\'s that don\'t need welding???
- Rechroming - Can anyone recommend someone for this?
help on any of the above would be very welcome!!
Cheers
OJ
Glad to see that the bish is still around!
Microtech LT10 eh? Many people can map them, I\'ve got one in my TII (well I have most of one..... waiting for the ignitor module to come back from AUS!) mail me/PM me if you want any pointers markparmstrong@hotmail.com
Quote from: ArchbishSeeing as I\'ve given up trying to do this on the quiet, I may as well ask for pointers and help openly!! *grin*
righto -
Engine stands - Am I right in thinking I\'d need some sort of conversion plate for the engine to mount onto the engine stand? Is this worthwhile, or is it just as easy to to a build on the floor of the garage?
- Exhaust - This is going to have to be a custom jobby, but presumably this will require getting the car to an exhaust builder? Or if I got a manifold sorted, is there likely to be someone mobile that can do this?
- Microtech LT10 - does anyone happen to know where a second hand one coule be sourced? Anyone got experience in mapping the buggers?
- Brake improvements - is there a brake conversion anyone on here has had success with on a first gen? Does this result in a different stud pattern and offset?
- Sunroof - mine is dodgy - shotblasting it has kinda left me with a piece of metal the same shape as australia... Any decent condition one\'s that don\'t need welding???
- Rechroming - Can anyone recommend someone for this?
help on any of the above would be very welcome!!
Cheers
OJ
I have a sunroof, Ausrotary.com is the place to look for brake upgrades theres been a lot of posts on there
Mark
Quote from: mpk490pI have a sunroof, Ausrotary.com is the place to look for brake upgrades theres been a lot of posts on there
Mark
Cheers dude - you got a pm...
the ideal solution to sunroof rust is to find a glass one :)
Brake upgrades on a S3 should be fairly easy as the disc is seperate from the hub, Depends on the wheels you are using really, we fitted 3rd gen calipers and RS turbo discs on a morris marina LoL. Just need to make the new discs fit over the hub, redrill for the first gen PCD offset from the old holes then it\'s a case of making a strong bracket to bolt the new caliper to the old caliper mounting points. Quite involved but nothing too tricky, just need to make sure what you are doing is well over built and take your time and make sure everything is aligned properly.
Quote from: MikeLMRthe ideal solution to sunroof rust is to find a glass one :)
Brake upgrades on a S3 should be fairly easy as the disc is seperate from the hub, Depends on the wheels you are using really, we fitted 3rd gen calipers and RS turbo discs on a morris marina LoL. Just need to make the new discs fit over the hub, redrill for the first gen PCD offset from the old holes then it\'s a case of making a strong bracket to bolt the new caliper to the old caliper mounting points. Quite involved but nothing too tricky, just need to make sure what you are doing is well over built and take your time and make sure everything is aligned properly.
Mike, the series 3 has the bearing built into the disc, so not as straight forward as that. Although thats exactly what i did on on my TII using M5 BMW discs.
My series 3 has new black diamond discs, good stock calipers and hawk pads and they are great, even on the track.
I\'m gonna start my 13bT into a first gen soon, If you are putting a stock turbo 2 engine in it will hit the steering box. You either have to move the turbo or change the steering. I had it done to my Elford S3 8 years ago and had to have the steering converted to rack and pinion. I am going a different route this time, I\'m gonna fit the whole subframe, so i get the steering, brakes and suspension.
As all your point dont seemed to have been answered, here is my 2p worth
Quote from: Archbishrighto -
Engine stands - Am I right in thinking I\'d need some sort of conversion plate for the engine to mount onto the engine stand? Is this worthwhile, or is it just as easy to to a build on the floor of the garage?
.
You dont need a stand to build the engine, just a nice clean work bench.
.
.
- Exhaust - This is going to have to be a custom jobby, but presumably this will require getting the car to an exhaust builder? Or if I got a manifold sorted, is there likely to be someone mobile that can do this?
.
I made Gmans donpipe on his drive but he used the rest of his exhaust. If you cant weld, then trailer it to an exhaust place and have them make it.
.
.
- Microtech LT10 - does anyone happen to know where a second hand one coule be sourced? Anyone got experience in mapping the buggers?
.
You can get a Power FC to fit quite easily, ReWorx can tune microtec\'s, chris has over 600 bhp with a micro tec in his TII
.
.
- Brake improvements - is there a brake conversion anyone on here has had success with on a first gen? Does this result in a different stud pattern and offset?
.
See my post above
.
.
- Sunroof - mine is dodgy - shotblasting it has kinda left me with a piece of metal the same shape as australia... Any decent condition one\'s that don\'t need welding???
.
As above, get a glass one, it transforms the inside of the car with the extra light.
.
.
- Rechroming - Can anyone recommend someone for this?
.
No, sorry
[/list]
help on any of the above would be very welcome!!
Cheers
OJ
Thanks for all the replies boys!!!!
The brakes sounds like an interesting one... Of course, putting on 20" three spoke chrome alloys will make the standard disks look a little on the small side, and the under car neons will only exacerbate this... what????
Re: turbo vs steering box - I\'ve been told by someone that has done this that the turbo manifold can be turned 180 degrees, and drilled, and things will fit. We\'ll see about that... *grin*
Quote from: antnicukMike, the series 3 has the bearing built into the disc, so not as straight forward as that. Although thats exactly what i did on on my TII using M5 BMW discs.
DoH its a long time since I looked at a 7 and my 323 has S2 struts. Is it only the rears with the "normal" discs then? That\'s a pain.
Why not just have a new turbo manifold made????? This will allow you to put the turbo wherever you want it too! In oz this is common place practice. Maybe have a chat with Kev yorks as he has made the manifold for his cosmo himself. And look at the power it produces! It can be done and is one of the lesser modifications, especially if you are wanting to \'roll\' on 20 inch chromies.
I agree with ants comments on the engine stand also. Just a nice cleen workbench. Just make sure it is clean.
This is the type of conversion that has been done hundreds of times so finding the answers to all your questions shouldnt be too difficult. Top idea this. Wish you all the best with it.
cheers, michael.
OK, probably won\'t be doing the 20" chromies - but no promises about the neons... *GRIN*
it MIGHT be cheaper to buy a turbo manifold already made up in Oz and get it shipped - any opinions??? Having seen mr yorks home made car trailer, I am sure his technical skills far outweigh mine in the same way venice far damper than the Gobi desert...
Got any pics boyo? Sounds a cool project, best to keep it looking stock though :)
www.archbish.com (//www.archbish.com) Where else???? *GRIN*
yep I guess that there would probably be a few tuning shops that would have them in stock. Wasnt someone in oz producing cast aftermarket ones?? maybe that is just wishfull thinking.
Cool websit too.
cheers, michael.
So got the 12a front plate on the engine, and getting to the point of plumbing bits back on. Aaaaaaaaannnnnnddddd the water pump catches on the front plate??? Is this normal? I\'ve not seen it mentioned anywhere, but putting the 12a front plate next to the 13bt one, the 13bt is clearly \'notched\' in a bit to accomodate the housing of the waterpump...
bit confused on this - have I the wrong front plate? Am I doing something stupid with the waterpump??
Help would be appreciated as am a bit baffled...
must be on ausrotory somewhere plenty of write up\'s but im sure you already know that!!
Call me tomorrow after lunch, I have a couple of different water pumps you can look at and also you can have a look at my engine which is now finished and ready to go in.
And you dont have to walk far:WaveBye
Rock and roll dude - you got your engine back now??? WINNER!!! *grin* Will call you tomorrow pm.
Rumbled it methinks...
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=468187
Hi
I have a glass sunroof and a metal one ( black ) still in the bag mazda give you to protect them
Let me know if you are interested as I was about to ebay them to clear my garage of spare rx7 parts!
if there is anything you need as far s looms etc for the TII then give me a shout as i have a vast array of switches, control boxes, TII spares and the important manifold if you need it. The manifold is made from iron and is home made but dam solid and you can cut and reweld to suit your car.
Cheers guys. I\'m going to try and use a universal loom for most of the stuff, and hopefully a microtech loom that will do just the engine bits, but a couple of engine mounts would be cool...!!:D
Also, Pip @ WGT auto developments www.wgtautodevelopments.co.uk (http://www.wgtautodevelopments.co.uk) is an official Microtech dealer and tuner, and legend to boot.
Antnicuk,did you ever get arround to the turbo2+subframe,brakes etc etc into a gen1?
I never went ahead with mine, the series 3 was too heavy for my likeing :) so i went for a kit car. RX motors did one for Tim Pamponi on here. Not sure how he got on but i think its done.
I think there are a few threads explaining how to do it on rx7club.com although the respeed setup looks a nicer option.
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;620595I think there are a few threads explaining how to do it on rx7club.com although the respeed setup looks a nicer option.
Shaun
Shaun,
i dont think the ReSpeed kit will work with a RhDrive car
They can do it with a custom rack at about $750 or you source your own based on the rack its built on.
Chatted to them a while ago about it !
Shaun
I will be selling my exhaust system off my TII fb at some point.As I am going for a 4"/3.5" piping. All depends on if I can get a 4" over the axle or not. Intrested???
Pete
IT RUNS (again)!!! Just been for the first drive (on my private road, naturally), and there are a few things to resolve...
1 - it gets hot. Quickly. Really quickly. Just driving less than a couple of miles, and it was up and over temp. What\'s that about...?? I am going to check the thermostat, but it does seem that the turbo is generating a LOT of heat...
2 - the brakes are still binding. I thought I\'d sorted this one, but clearly not... I may get a second set and rebuild them (bigred?), but by the time I got to the equivalent distance of Brians house, they were smoking...
and it is noisy. And the turbo has briefly (and accidently!) kicked in - christ on a bike it\'s going to be a quick car...!!
bit gritty to start, and it will definitely benefit from a tune (and maybe someone else having a look too...?? Any volunteers??) but it felt WONDERFUL!!!! Still giggling like an insane child on orange smarties in my own head...:cheers:Thumbsup!:Talking1:eek::Viking :guinness:burnout:burnout:burnout:burnout:burnout
OK - looks like I\'ve got to the bottom of the cooling issue - the thermostat is screwed...!! So is it better to replace it with a stock Mazda part (for an TII RX7), or is there some magical aftermarket thing that I could use instead...?? ((do I need one at all??))
Top Bombing get her going, dude! Made up for you
....are the orange ones much more potent than any other colour then? :3Confused
Quote from: Archbish;634816OK - looks like I\'ve got to the bottom of the cooling issue - the thermostat is screwed...!! So is it better to replace it with a stock Mazda part (for an TII RX7), or is there some magical aftermarket thing that I could use instead...?? ((do I need one at all??))
I\'d use a stock Mazda one - it should work well enough.
Nice to hear you got it going :cheers
thanks chaps. Having taken it for a spin to see what else I need to do, it\'s quite clear I\'m still a way from the MOT... It\'s also clear I may need to put a silencer in it. My wife heard me start it from about 1/2 mile away...
Wonderful to hear its up and running. Won\'t be long before its all sorted :D
Told you it will be mental :Giggle
Shaun
Wheres the video then?
We need a video, pics etc :D :Giggle
Great to see that it\'s almost ready to start terrorising the streets :D
Looking forward to some pics.
Excellent news Matey. Cant wait to see this for real :D
Big hugs :)
Adam
Thanks chaps - a few pics of some of the work this weekend...
(http://www.archbish.com/Pics/1st%20gen/battery.jpg)
Battery relocation behind the passenger seat. Need to trim a bit off the bracket - I keep shorting to the frame and +ve terminal and scaring the .... out of myself...
(http://www.archbish.com/Pics/1st%20gen/interior1.jpg)
Door skin is a bit baggy and needs to be properly stuck on, but will look the nuts when it\'s done.
(http://www.archbish.com/Pics/1st%20gen/interior2.jpg)
(http://www.archbish.com/Pics/1st%20gen/interior3.jpg)
(http://www.archbish.com/Pics/1st%20gen/interior4.jpg)
(http://www.archbish.com/Pics/1st%20gen/interior5.jpg)
The sunroof is trimmed in the same cream as the gearknob gaiter and the door card. I\'m liking it a lot. (btw, it\'s one of those jobs where it looks better from a distance or in a dodgy photo... *grin*)
I\'ve rebuilt the brakes (could do with some new rubbers, but otherwise OK), but need a new thermostat. Will be calling Gary tomorrow methinks...
Shaun - it will be a little bit scary I think... it\'s on lowest of low boost settings (I was too scared to see what it did boost to)
GOOOOOOOOOOOOOD weekend!!
:god
Awesome, if I wore a hat, I\'d take it off to you :)
Hey Bish,
Small thing,
Put a fuse near the positive terminal just in case.:cheers
Regards
Carl
Plus don\'t short those battery too often. They have a disclaimer in the manual that says its very bad !
A spacer on the positive side would cure the shorting problem too ! Couldn\'t understand why the holder was like that. Ended up insulation taping the edge up on mine !
Shaun
For some reason - and I don\'t know why I thought that - I was expecting it to be a bit \'industrial\' inside - but actually it looks very civilised inside - nice job.
And +1 on the battery comments :Giggle - having seen the results of a spanner across a battery at close quarters - not mine I hasten to add - I wouldn\'t recommend shorting them :spank
- seems you spotted my on the way to the diy store today :driving
"Civilised"? Bish!? :rollin
It looks top bloody notch inside, very understated and classy :yes Are the vents out so they can be replaced with mahogany veneers? Just kidding, looks ace :D
Fair comment chaps - will do. And Prof, yup, saw you at the lights... If you\'re passing and the cars out, come and say hello...!! Veneers, Nik??? Solid Walnut dear boy, nothing less!!
Looking good, like it a lot.
Get it mapped man! I need an A3 cruising buddy :D
Pete.
TIS BLUE!!!! Tis far from a concourse perfect finish, but I\'m well pleased given it\'s my first go...
(http://www.archbish.com/pics/1st%20Gen%20Pics/blue1.jpg)
(http://www.archbish.com/pics/1st%20Gen%20Pics/blue2.jpg)
(http://www.archbish.com/pics/1st%20Gen%20Pics/blue3.jpg)
see below - no site repeaters, no badges, not headlight wash...
(http://www.archbish.com/pics/1st%20Gen%20Pics/blue4.jpg)
...no rear wash, no spoiler, no lock, no aerial...
(http://www.archbish.com/pics/1st%20Gen%20Pics/blue5.jpg)
So took it for an MOT and failed - the list is long, with a couple of bits I REALLY should have found beforehand, but these are not terrible by any stretch...
1 - front daylight runners not working. I didn\'t realise these were a requirement!
2 - rear fog lamp tell tale not working. Haven\'t checked, but probably not...
3 - windscreen washer provides insufficient fluid - probably just empty...
4 - emissions. Not a big surprise there. Going to try and get it to somewhere to have a poke at it weekend after next. It does stumble terribly on acceleration, but the few times it is smooth, there is some get up and go there...
5 - exhaust noise. He\'s said he\'ll pass if everything else does.
6 - fuel leak at fuel pump. Connection leak I hadn\'t noticed before - easy enough to sort.
7 - brake fluid leak at join of pipe and caliper. Just a tighten should sort it.
8 - clip holding the hose in place missing. didn\'t realise it was missing - my bad!
9 - inner track rod end lock pin missing. And I knew this one - how embarrassed am I!
10 - passenger seatbelt insecurely fixed to the vehicle structure. Again, I knew this - embarrassing!
The most difficult one, however, is the tyres fouling on full lock with the anti roll bar. Probably need thinner tyres at the front, which is a pain - might just borrow a couple of wheels for the MOT and sort the tyres out later...
nothing terrible, and he spotted a couple of oil leaks to sort out, and the nearside wheel bearing isn\'t in great shape.
better than my fear of being laughed out for bringing such a death trap to the garage, worse than my dream of receiving a medal for such a stirling vehicle. *grin*
It should only require to pass the less stringent 3.5% CO and 1200 ppm HC test. So there is no need for him to rev it and check emissions at anything other than idle. The test is based on age of engine or car, whichever is older - so it would be the date of the car the test is for (in any case the TII lump has the same test requirements.)
New plugs / good warm up before hand / clean fuel - should pass with some tweaking of your idle settings - rotaries do tend to be rich on tickover.
Apart from that - it doesn\'t sound like it\'s too far off :cool
yeeeah, it\'s actually a bit smokey on idle... *grin* Hopefully taking a bit of fuel out of the map should sort that... But you\'re right tho, it is far from a complete disaster!!
Congrats matey - thats not a bad fail !! :D
Yes, indeed, awesome work effendi. Get those niggles sorted and get on with the job of scaring yourself silly in it :D
Fanks chaps... should be achievable with a little effort. Wanna have it up for the Japshow in October.
I\'d better get a ticket sorted then...this I have to see :D
*grin* it\'s not THAT amazing (other than I have learned how to use a spanner. For hitting nuts into bolts, right?)
just a question - I have the basemap for the T04 on a 13bt, and I\'m assuming it\'s over fuelling. This is because it stumbles big time on acceleration. It has new coils, new plugs, new leads, so they should be OK. Sound like a reasonable conclusion?? So how do I take fuel out of the map - I\'m going to try 10% to begine with. Just need it to run well enough on next to no boost to get it to someone who knows what they\'re doing.
Just a question - is it running ok on idle - and only stumbles when you hit the throttle (as in on the transition), settling ok at higher constant rpm ?
The reason I say that is it could be enrichment settings you need to change and not the base map. If you\'ve an AFR gauge or lambda probe you can stick in the exhaust, you can see if the idle is rich or not, and if it is, knock a but of fuel out - it may start to idle poorly - so you may need to tweak it back a little again.
Timing can also be a bit off, but if you set the timing spot on when idling - using the pin and marks on the pulley, and then just advance the throttle and watch the leading time mark change - if you\'ve an adjustable timing light - set for 2 stroke or halve it for 4 stroke setting, and it should get to 40 degrees advance by 4000 rpm (with no boost).
Also, if you\'ve taken the secondary throttle plates off the throttle body, it can be a bit finicky on rapid throttle changes.
It\'s OK on Idle, not great. it really is when accelerating - the harder the worse the stumble. And it\'s leaving a nice haze behind it as it goes for the poor people following... I\'ve not got a timing light, AFR or Lambda probe, so can\'t do those - may have to grab a timing light to see what it\'s doing. OF course, if a certain professor was to be passing by my house, with said timing light, and fancied popping in for a bevvy...:D
If I get my Wideband sensor by Friday, I shall be with the Madone in the shed , you can pop round and I will stick the probe up ya backside lol
you going round on Friday? Cos unfortunately, I\'m off on a stag doo from midday friday, and not back til Sunday afternoon...
yep , so are off to taking part in the Stag do or are you performing for the Stag hahahaha
......................yes. ;)
Quote from: Archbish;640331It\'s OK on Idle, not great. it really is when accelerating - the harder the worse the stumble. And it\'s leaving a nice haze behind it as it goes for the poor people following... I\'ve not got a timing light, AFR or Lambda probe, so can\'t do those - may have to grab a timing light to see what it\'s doing. OF course, if a certain professor was to be passing by my house, with said timing light, and fancied popping in for a bevvy...:D
Off to JAE this weekend, but can pop over Monday when we get back if that\'s any use ? :cheers
only if you\'re free dude. Problem is I don\'t normally get home from work til late (7:45ish) which might be a bit late for pootling around in a seven... but may take you up on it later in the week if that\'s OK??
Quote from: Archbish;640377only if you\'re free dude. Problem is I don\'t normally get home from work til late (7:45ish) which might be a bit late for pootling around in a seven... but may take you up on it later in the week if that\'s OK??
No worries - I get home 5-5.30 ish most nights - but could come via Farnborough on the way back - or leave it till the following weekend.
good work bish, as for tyres, just stick some 5mm spacers on the fronts, that should be enough to clear it and they only cost a few quid.
I would do, but I already have 15mm spacers on the front... Should probably have got the thinner tyres to start with as these should miss better.
You still in need of the timing light to check timing ?
If so, I can pop over some time on Saturday with it (may also have Mitch with me).
So finally took it down to Geff to face the music and find out how much of a bad job I\'d done on the car...
It\'d been running \'OK\' with the base map, but it would stumble from about 3k onwards, and I simply didn\'t know what the deal is. So today I was hoping for either:
1 - a perfect map
2 - a tweak and fix, and then a perfect map
3 - find out what\'s wrong, go away, fix it, and then back for a perfect map.
(http://www.archbish.com/Pics/1st%20Gen%20Pics/1st%20gen%20rollers.jpg)
What happened was option 4 - a tweak and fix, and then a start on a perfect map, and now go away and fix what broke next.
So the first thing to sort was the secondary injectors - Geff spotted that they were more than a touch clogged up from the transition to secondary injectors kicking in. Changed the filters, and straight away it\'s a different beast.
Then whilst mapping, the dump valve flange decided to disassociate itself with the pipe it was attached to.
So here is the pic of the chart - highlight is 176 rwhp, at 4k rpm at .7bar, before having to drop the run.
(http://www.archbish.com/Pics/1st%20Gen%20Pics/map.jpg)
but the main part has been driveability. I borrowed a hose to patch over the hole where the dump valve had been, and while it isn\'t the best approach, did give it beans a few times on the way home.
OH HELLO!!!!
On my private junction, a touch of clutch dumping had a very sideways approach to the world, and it\'s a very different animal.
So what I\'m gonna do is get through Le Mans (I was so nervous the car would fall apart today...), and back, and then finish with a big fat map on the car, and see what I\'ve put together.
The best part for me today was seeing how composed and centred the car was on the rollers. it didn\'t suggest any significant problems in the engine, drivetrain, or otherwise. Very, Very chuffed.
Sounds like it will be a very tidy little car :D
Should easily make double what you have seen too. That will make it a little rocket !
Lovely bit of work so far :D
Shaun
Nice one Bish
Did notice when we drove past on the way to the diy place that the beast was out :)
I can\'t wait to drive mine now - fixed the clutch and now the battery is flat - sticky ignition switch caused it to drain :(
Still - impressed by the boost curve - it can only get better from there. Am I right in understanding... - is that at the wheels ?
Nice one mate thats gonna be an awesome bit of kit.
Thanks y\'all. And yup, that is the wheels
It must be nice to have that at the wheels. Oh well one day:rolleyes:
well, it\'s a start... >)
Nearly there \'Bish.......Sun\'s out....ready for the road?
Oh yes - been out this morning already. Surprised a lot of people (including me...) on the private roundabout down to the private slip road onto my private road. lots of tyresmoke, and sideways action.
this is going to be hilarious...
Can I come and play on your private estate lol
Ive just come to pay my respects and add a little jealousy.
I too plan this conversion on my \'85. Its going to be stock on the outside apart from a mild lowering kit.
The only thing I think I am going to have problem with is finding a suitable engine for a reasonable price - I dont want to buy a whole car and try to offload the rest, but not sure if ill have much choice. Im happy to rebuild the motor, but how do you tell if its going to need rotor housings from the outside of a running motor - this could be the difference between cost effective and budget out the window...
nice to see the hard work paying off ;) and i finally fitted those calipers your car was only just running when i came down!
If you dont mind, I have a couple of questions myself...
Sump - what did you use?
Engine mounts - did you slot the 12a front bar?
Clutch?
Radiator?
Radiator hoses?
Was the engine already rebuilt, or did you change the seals etc?
Any other little things likely to trip up like minded people looking to take on the challenge?
Oh, and what are the final numbers? That thing must be a weapon :)
Sump - what did you use? 13b GLSE from Pip at WGT. New part ordered directly. You\'ll also need a different oil pickup (pip should be able to advise)
Engine mounts - did you slot the 12a front bar? I didn\'t. I did buy a 12a front cover, which requires a trim of the water pump, and you will need to drill and tap the front cover for a turbo drain. Seemed such an integral part, I didn\'t want to weaken it. The gearstick is a bit further back than it could be, but that was personal choice, and it\'s only about 20mm
Clutch? off ebay. Still using the Turbo II gearbox.
Radiator? ASI jobby off ebay (remarkably similar size to the PWC one)
Radiator hoses? Flexible silicon ones - can\'t remember the supplier, but they work great.
Was the engine already rebuilt, or did you change the seals etc? unopened running engine. It\'ll be interesting to see what it\'ll take.
Any other little things likely to trip up like minded people looking to take on the challenge?
I decided to rewire the car - bought a universal loom from the states for £108. All polybushed, new springs and struts. Use the turbo 2 oil cooler, with new braided lines.
The fuelling is interesting - I\'ve a lift pump, swirl pot, pressure pump, and made the fuel lines myself. If you were using the stock injectors and fuelling, you could probably get away without doing most of that, but this car is future proofed (or intended to be anyhow).
Reco prop can make the propshaft out of the two ends (so you\'ll need a first gen prop, and a 2nd gen prop, for the ends).
Gearbox mount is tricky, but can be manipulated into place with bolts and metalwork.
Manifold for a turbo can be bought from \'Steve\' on ausrotary. The exchange rate was in my favour at the time, but the quality is amazing, and depending on what turbo you\'re looking at, he has them on the shelf.
Oh, and Ebay has been the source of nearly everything here. Intercooler hoses, injectors, turbo, intercooler, rad, braided hoses, and connectors, wheels, tyres, FPR, carpet, you name it, I ebay\'d it.
Well, I\'m hoping for 300 rwhp at the mo. It is damned quick, and leaves traction far behind, so for road use, I\'ll settle for 200rwhp or so. cos it weighs not a lot.
Do you premix or did you work out the OMP? I really want to run some kind of metering, preferably a separate 2 stroke oil tank so I can run synthetic oil in the engine.
Seach for prof he has done a good conversion with a seperate tank
Are you bringing it to Brooklands Bish?
Adam
Premix - yup. From memory, the omp is taken out of the equation, so I chose to go premix.
and Brooklands - hopefully...
Final numbers and ball park cost on the driveshaft?
final numbers? if you mean current output, it was 175 rwhp @ 4krpm, but then the dump valve decided to end it\'s relationship with the intercooler piping. So projected about 210 - 220 rwhp at higher RPM @ .7 bar? Once back from Le Mans, it\'s time to wind the boost up and look for 300hp... :D
the cost of the driveshaft was about £180 delivered from recoprop. I provided both ends, a measurement, and an estimated HP output (I said 600hp for ....s and giggles. The gearbox, diff, and/or clutch should panic long before then...)
Sounds fat already - 280bhp on low boost... You going to stop at 1bar I take it?
Another question - what about the oil pickup in the sump?
Water seal failure. Bugger. anyone got a T2 block?
What premix ratio are you running?
about 1:100. why for do you ask?
Thinking of using it in my elford if i ever make my mind up between std turbo or t3/t4 i have lying arround.
Quote from: Archbish;712235Water seal failure. Bugger. anyone got a T2 block?
Not good - you confirmed it is failure and not maybe a leak or air pocket in the system somewhere ?
poo if it is though :(
If it\'s water seals and the block still turns over nicely - I\'d drain out the coolant - pop a bit of oil in the spark plug holes and hand crank it a few times - particularly if you\'re not planning on taking it apart any time soon - should help stop water getting into the housing and marking / damaging the irons.
well, it\'s become a real bugger to start, it\'s suddenly started losing a small amount of coolant, the coolant surges and subsides, and there\'s loads of white smoke as it starts up. my money is on a water seal... I\'m just about to order the parts to start the FD block rebuild, so will be looking for a T2 bare bock to sling in so I can drive the 1st gen...