More problems with boost:
Saturday morning I had an apexi installation and map (240rwhp @ 0.8bar)
Saturday evening boost started leaking, you can hear it gushing out and will not boost more than .1 bar, the pattern is very simple, vacuum then @ WOT zero to .1 bar and lots and lots of air escaping somewhere.
Sunday removed air pump and fitted underdrive pulley kit to tidy up engine bay a little.
Monday removed and checked intercooler pipes for splits, removed throttle body and manifold to replace vacuum hoses with silicon ones. Ended up breaking a solenoid so replaced it. Replaced as many hoses as I could possibly get to without removing the metal bit of the rats nest, this was pretty much all of them bar a few on the front couple of solenoids and a couple underneath it - did not look an easy job to take it out completly so I avoid it.
After reassembly the same issue, air escaping heavily, identical to before.
My Questions
1) Whats next to check for the boost problem, if the pipes under the rats nest, whats the easiest way to remove the metal part of the rats nest so I can get down there?
2) How to check which way round the wiring for the Turbo pre control and Wastegate control solenoids?
3) I have some HKS mushroom air filters installed and I would like to know what the two pipes are going to them, 1 of them has a check valve or something and a vacuum pipe that goes to the manifold, on the diagram its labeled as the air bypass valve, should this be connected to the upper or lower air filter, or does it not matter? - EDIT - The one with the bypass valves gets attached to the bottom filter, ( found it on a picture I took )
4) Recently (and before my tinkering!) my "HEAT" light has been lighting up (flickering) on the dash, is this the exhaust heat or something? What is it warning me for and what should I be looking at - it seems to becoming increasingly more frequent. Could the removal of the air pump have anything to do with it?
FYI, Everything on the APEXI controller seems normal, I monitor air temp, water temp, boost and knock. Air temp strays between 40->60 water temp peeks at 100 but averages at 88-90, im not sure what a bad knock value is but it rarely peeks above 30.
Cheers guys, your help is appreciated!
James
The Apexi PFC makes the "heat light" flicker in 1 of 2 conditions (excessive knock (over 50%)) or injectors maxing out (over 95%).
To lose that amount of boost you should be looking at the \'Y\' pipe to intercooler and intercooler to throttle body pipework 1st..
(just read your post properly and you\'ve already done that...)
Cheers
jon
The knock value peeks at values around the 20-30 mark according to the PFC, I will monitor injector duty and see if they warning light ties up with the PFC.
Ill check the IC piping again and ensure the Y-Pipe is intact, how "simple" is the Y-Pipe to remove? Does this have to be attempted from the underside of the car?
Cheers, James
the y-pipe is a bastard to remove....i could only do mine with the engine out.....i got small fingers and couldnt get to one bolt to emove it..
http://jitesh512.fotopic.net/p33293900.html
shows the rear bolt locations for the y-pipe...looks easy when the engine outs, but trust me, when you got the downpipe and steering arm in the way, its bloody not!!!
also doesnt the heat light come on if you have a blocked cat?
No CAT on this FD :)
Maybe the sensor is playing up I read to remove the drivers seat, pull the sensor out and soldering should disable the sensor.
I am going to check all the PFC sensor readings tonight too. :)
As for the Y-Pipe, saturday morning its coming out, with the engine staying in theres no chance im going to be able to get the engine out.
Im pretty sure the IC pipes are in tact
J
You can get the \'Y\' pipe off with the engine in, but it is a bastrd. The 2 back 10mm nuts have to come off from underneath which is unbelievably tricky.
Cheers
Jon
good luck on the y-pipe....i found it impossible! even from underneath!
Cheers mate, I have spent 3 days lent over the bonnet fitting the vacuum hoses and pulleys, its only fair I spend another 3 days underneath it!
:)
J
Cheers for the pic one2watch, could you confirm for me, check the pic at:
y pipe removal (http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/album_fullsize.html?c_photo=1000891086)
I gotta remove the bolts by indicated by the red arrow, what about green and pink, do I go for the green ones first from underneath? Or attempt the removal where the pipe seems to be joined at the pink arrow?
Cheers, James
I cant see those pics as i need to log in....
Sorry mate
try
here (http://www.photobox.co.uk/shared/photo.html?c_photo=1000891086)
You can just make out the arrows on the pic (i knows its tiny! cant zoom unless your logged in!)
J
I didn\'t think the Y Pipe was awful to remove; you just have to undo the two small nuts on the rear turbo pipe and move it out of the way, then you\'ll have just about enough room :)
Budget for a few hours though ;)
Quote from: jonrx7ukThe Apexi PFC makes the "heat light" flicker in 1 of 2 conditions (excessive knock (over 50%)) or injectors maxing out (over 95%).
Actually, it flashes the heat light if it notices a problem with any of it\'s sensors it\'s using, in addition to those conditions listed above. Going into the check switch/sensor screen it will show the sensor at fault by flagging it in a black box.
i cant see that pic terribly well...i think the green arrow is pointing at the correct nut...theres another nut on the other side of that flange. The front two nuts should be easy to see!!
Dave -the prob with removing the pipe from the rear turbo is that you still cant see one nut holding it to thwe rear turbo and theres very limited space between the firewall (i think)
More diagnosis of the "HEAT" light:
The heat light came on with the CAT and the HWL sensor, Im guessing CAT is the actual cat temp sensor so I am tempted to replace that or solder it shut. Whats HWL?
Peak values for air temp, water temp, knock and injector duty were not that high.
Am I looking at anything really serious?
Cheers Guys.