Got a few problems with my whip (dont know what that phrase means really just thought i would use it)
Just did this for the first time yesterday. When reversing there is a juddering at the backend, think it could be wheel hop?? not sure. I do have an unfitted diff brace which im hoping cures it!! any ideas?
Also when driving slowly say at 30, the car is fine on throttle just cruising but when you take your foot off the accelerator the whole car shakes about, then its fine again if you select a lower gear or put your foot back on the gas. Now this has got me thinking, thought initially engine mounts, but the engine has been out more times than ... well alot. And no one said they needed replacing so hope they are okey, then thought it could be because of the state of tune of the car (the 1680cc secondary injectors) and maybe also the lightened flywheel:xconfused :rolleyes:
I thought that buying an engine torque brace might fix this????????????
cheers peeps:Ladys-man
Yeh, Sounds like a Mount or UJ joint some thing like that.
Are you sure every thing is tight if the engines been in and out alot?
QuoteAre you sure every thing is tight if the engines been in and out alot
No mate, as it wasnt me that did it. Anything in particular I should check?
Been thinking about this some more, and if something was loose or it was a mount wouldnt it do it at high speed aswell??, and possible have trouble getting it in gear? It almost feels like when your going 20mph in fifth in a normal car and its having trouble because of the low speed?:confused:
I\'ve been thinking about it too, Check your Front Diff mount, if that is worn or damaged it will allow the front of the diff to move out of line causing the prop to wobble. I\'m not 100% sure if it would do it all the time but i\'ve sen it happen on another make car.
Does it do it more with load on, crusing or over run?
Front diff mount right oh mate, will get that checked.
It doesnt do it on throttle or at cruise or on WOT, just does it when im in say 3rd doing 30mph and come off the throttle completely to slow down. it then judders and if throttle is re-applied it goes away:rolleyes:
Sounds like a faulty differential mount
Don\'t go giving it any bean until you get it checked, Fd\'s don\'t like bad Diff mounts they tend to brake the cases.
Would his clunking at low speeds be caused by maybe by the diff its self on its way out?
Mine has just started to make clonking noises last night when I do very low speed turns or reversing, I might get it stuck on a ramp to check the diff mounts or its a replacement diff time
tis prob your diff mounts matey, mine are on the way out and do the same as yours...... its like when you try to pull away from a junction in 2nd or 3rd.
Rmaj
Quotetis prob your diff mounts matey
Right oh then, is this a big job??? would i get away with just fitting my diff brace ? or is it best to get em changed and how much is this going to cost the gandalf???:rolleyes:
Just a thought the diff can be dropped without touching the gearbox? is that right?. Should be a pretty straightforward job then!!!
Will the mount have obvious damage and how many are there?
You can change with out touching the g/box and there are 2, I would doubt you will see it without taking out unless really bad, I would take both out and inspect.
i have heard that dropping the diff is a right pain in the butt????
Rmaj
Quotei have heard that dropping the diff is a right pain in the butt
lol, thanks mate:2Confused
Nar the Diff Bolts are usaly Very tight but its not a Hard job.
The clunking you can hear may be the back lash in the Diff, It may need New bearings in but i\'d suspect once you change the Diff mounts the noise will go (may be becouse its not sat properly in the car)
well we had it up on the ramps, the mounts are fine, the diff is fduked, planetary gears are smashed.
I know where a good Diff can be found for £120. :yes
lookind for a 1.5 way locking diff MrTRex otherwide im gonna smash a standard one again in no time
Changed the mounts (well a garage did) and the hopping in reverse has gone but the juddering is still there:2Confused :2Confused My diff mounts that come off looked good, so who knows possibly its my diff then, better start saving
had my diff brace fitted aswell and all its done is make the car even noisier as now all your hear (apart from the stupid loud exhaust and the screamer pipe) is the diff whining away to itself. Stupid cars:2eek
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im about to do mine as it has all these symptoms what turned out with yours?
Have you checked the ppf for cracks?
cant help you with the juddering mate - but heres what "whip" means =
1. Whip
When the steering wheel was first put into use in automobiles, it was called the "whip". The whip is what you used to control the horses on a stagecoach, hence the analogy.
Many years later, various hip hop artists noticed that the Mercedes-Benz logo resembled a steering wheel. They then proceeded to use the old term "whip" to describe any Mercedes-Benz vehicle. The term has now been generalized to classify any expensive automobile.
Check the new whip, thug! I dropped 300 G\'s on this V12, now I\'m ballin\' like James Bond when he was still gettin\' pussy!
lmao:rollin thanks for the explanation bud, can my car be called a whip then? as its cost me a bloody fortune, lol.:rolleyes: :King :cheers
Quoteim about to do mine as it has all these symptoms what turned out with yours?
Im putting mine down to having a lightened flywheel without replacing the counterweight:3Confused
QuoteHave you checked the ppf for cracks
yes matey, it was fine the last time the block was out:)
I know this is not much help.:o
When i collected my car from one the sites vendors. I had the same thing. If your in fifth say doing 50mph come off the power. The car slows when it gets to just below 40mph the car judders. Back on the power also OK.
Was lead to belive by the vendor this was common tranmission slack. Replaced the gearbox oil with redline heavy duty. Now judders closer to the 30 mph mark.
50 miles atfer that the engine blow a coolant gasket.:eek:
My car likes to judder quite badly at 30mph in 4th (when I\'m off the throttle). Fine when on or braking.
So what\'s it likely to be??
I\'ll get the front Diff mounts checked asap. If they are ok, is it easy to asess if the diff is shot or not?? Could the diff be low on oil (is that even possible?).
Here\'s the detail on diff and transmission oil changes....
Changing the diff and transmission fluids
The diff is easy the transmission is tricky. First I went to Home Depot and got 8 Ft of 5/8th od dia clear tubing and a plastic funnel set. That\'s how you get the oil in the transmission and differential. Now, make sure you have 3 new aluminum washers for the large transmission drain plug, the differential fill plug and differential drain plug before you start. I get mine from the dealer. I don\'t like using the copper ones that the parts stores usually carry because, at least here at the beach, galvanic corrosion (from dissimilar metals) can be a problem. Make sure you have a tube of liquid Teflon thread sealant for the small transmission drain plug and the transmission fill plug (also at Home Depot, or you can get the fancy automotive stuff at the parts store). You also need a few large metric combination wrenches and sockets I can\'t remember the exact sizes but I think they were ~22-25mm. Finally you need 3 quarts of oil for the transmission and 2 quarts for the differential. I used Redline MTL for the tranny and Redline 75-W90 for the diff.
The differential is easy the plugs are in the back, undo the fill plug then undo the drain plug. Put the new washers on the plugs, and put the drain back in. Stuff one end of the hose into the differential fill hole, push the funnel onto the other end of the hose. Stand up next to the rear of the car while holding the funnel. Slowly pour in the oil until it just begins to spill out of the fill hole. As a side note, the car should be completely level while doing all filling operations.
Now for the transmission, there are two drain plugs, one fill plug and one plug that you don\'t touch. First remove the sheet aluminum cover and set it aside. On the bottom of the transmission case is an obvious big drain plug. The other three plugs are on the driver\'s side of the transmission. The highest one has a recessed square socket don\'t touch it. Approximately below it is a plug with a protruding square socket, this is the fill plug. Behind and a little below the fill plug is another protruding square socket plug, this is the second drain plug. Remove the fill plug then the big drain plug let the oil run out. Then remove the second drain plug. You remove the fill plug first other wise the oil "plops" out everywhere except in your drain pan (you did remember to put a pan under the drain plug :).To fill the trans put the new washer on the big drain plug and the sealant on the second drain plug and put them back in. Stuff the funnel in one end of the hose and ~3" of the hose in the fill hole (it just barely fits) stand up next to the car while holding the funnel and slowly pour in the oil until it just starts to spill out.
cheers :)
what oil is needed for the diff?