hi all well finally got my new car the other day and looks like ive got alot of tlc to do to it.
first problem i noticed with the engine was it miss fires like hell,(not drove it just reved it)
and also idles at around 1100 rpm(is this right or should it be lower)
could this be the dreaded over fueling due to the rotor blades worn down or something else.
not had a good look around it but should do this week.
cheers for any help and advice
mike
Not sure why the engine would over fuel due to worn apex seals? Best way to check the condidtion of the combustion seals is to do a compression test. 1100rpm is about right for a cold engine, when it warms up it should settle to around 800-900. If you\'ve got a missfire I\'d start with the plugs and leads. Pop the plugs out and see if they\'re fouled. Depends how the car\'s been used, if the previous owner suspected a problem I suppose it\'s reasonable to assume it\'s been started up a few times and not driven, this\'ll sh*t the plugs up pretty quickly. Also, have a good rummage around and look for vacuum pipes that may have come off, particularly the vacuum/pressure pipe to the MAP sensor.
cheers
the cars been sitting around for about 3 months and only been started once or twice in that time.
so when im compretion testing will one from a piston engine do the job?and what sort of results should i be looking for?
and from what ive been reading the ngk bur9 eqp are the ones to go for.
think ill also get a set of decent leads(which ones are best?)
Yep, you can use a run of the mill compression tester, but you\'ll have to hold the return valve open so that you can get a compression reading for each rotor face. Connect the compression tester to the leading spark plug hole (don\'t forget to disable the ECU). You\'ll get three readings for each rotor, they should all be pretty concistent. Anything above 6.5 to 7 bar is ok. Technically you\'re supposed to use BUR7\'s leading and BUR9\'s trailing but the 7\'s are getting harder to find so alot of people just use 9\'s all round. As for leads, it\'s up to you really. I use the NGK ones, they seem ok. Any one of the suppliers at the top of the page should be able to sort you out.
thanks
will get right to it tomorrow.
Best of luck fella, lets hope it\'s something simple!
nope knowing my luck it`ll be a full strip down.
but hey need to learn more about these engines so where better to start than on mine.
do any of you chat on msn messenger at all or just mainly stick to in here?
Hi Mate, thought i had seen the car before from your avatar, its this one isn\'t it? http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/90654.htm The ad says it needs a rebuild?
yeah thats the one.
does any glasgow rex`s ever heard of the garage coruth auto services whiteinch?
as it was them that diagnosed the rebuild.
as ive never worked on rotorary`s before im a total newbie to these engines.
i got the car for a very good price so cant really complain.
if i have to rebuild engine then at least then everything in the bay can get checked,cleaned and replaced(if needed).
As Gman says,
The car was advertised with the rebuild suggestion matey, if you get very very lucky and it somehow doesn\'t need one you will be very happy indeed but if the previous owner knew what he was talking about odds are on for a rebuild chap
previous owner didnt have a clue he just took it for an mot and garage failed it for emissions being too high,so im unsure what work/tests they did
Quote from: mikeyhprevious owner didnt have a clue he just took it for an mot and garage failed it for emissions being too high,so im unsure what work/tests they did
Interesting there, get a compression test done to confirm state of engine compression, if above say 6\'s it will be ok for a while, if in the 5\'s then its more or less gone and will need a rebuild, if the compression is ok take it for a nice long stroll on the m-way to clear away the carbon build up and cobwebs, also change oil/plugs/filter just to be safe.
What is the mileage dude ?
on the clocks(which i take are in klm it reads 120--- but the guy advertised it as a 88000 sure until i get a very good look not sure
Quote from: mikeyhon the clocks(which i take are in klm it reads 120--- but the guy advertised it as a 88000 sure until i get a very good look not sure
If its done approx 85K miles then perhaps it may well require a rebuild, some can run until 100K but depends on how its been looked after, there are a few members in Edinburgh on here see if they can be of assistance on a few points if need be, always handy to get a second opinion.
Good luck with it Mike :cheers
cheers mate once i can get to it ill get it all checked out,
ill put new plugs and leads on it first see if that helps.
whats the recomended oil type for these?
Quote from: mikeyhcheers mate once i can get to it ill get it all checked out,
ill put new plugs and leads on it first see if that helps.
whats the recomended oil type for these?
Recommended oil is Castrol GTX 10w - 40 , mineral based, funny you should ask was just checking mine to see how much i got left :Giggle
also got a cpl of spare parts off the guy.
1.headlight cover with air intake slot in it.
2.plastic light surrounds that are for the twin type bulbs.
3.a brand new stainless steel decat pipe(i think)(has a 4 bolt connection at one end and a 2 bolt flange at the other,and a lambda sensor hole in it.
he said he also has a big manifold kind of thing(his words not mine)lol
Quote from: gsb876Recommended oil is Castrol GTX 10w - 40 , mineral based, funny you should ask was just checking mine to see how much i got left :Giggle
so thatll be a fully synthetic or semi?
and should be changed every 2000 miles or so
Quote from: mikeyhso thatll be a fully synthetic or semi?
and should be changed every 2000 miles or so
I think it is Semi, and needs to be changed every 3K miles or so :cool
I\'d only use mineral oil if I were you. I know some will argue that modern synthetics are ok and won\'t leave residues when burnt in the rotor chambers, but I don\'t think it\'s worth the gamble.
yep, i only use mineral....its what mazda recommend so its good enough for me
mmm just been roaming around the forum and noticed more than a few rex`s have went up in flames?.
how common iss this and what causes it?
Hey mate i can thorougly reccomend the garage in wishaw,run by marc light he\'s a top bloke who deals with plenty rex\'s & knows his stuff,just mention my name & im sure he\'ll help with the comp test.
i think i could manage the test myself(just have to find the plugs lol)
managed to nip out for 5 mins(well thats what i told the g/f)
took it for a quick run around the block and was back firing like hell.
it seems that if you rev it and left off peddle you get an all mighty bang.
will get a new set of plugs and leads into her tomorrow but from the smell out the exhaust(ie 110% pure fuel)i think the car will need a full strip.
had another quick look around car and its needing a few cosmetic bits, but as they say you get what you pay for.
Hey bud!
I was looking at that car, thought about buying it! Give us a shout when your working on it and i\'ll pop through, give you a hand checking over oil,plug,lead, hoses etc if you want.
Im based in East Kilbride. Have a look for Donato online, he\'s from up your way ;)
Marc Light at the Garage doesnt have a compression tester, we\'ve just returned from WGT after a comp test. He is the top man in Scotland however for rx7\'s...lots of practice!!
Any how, email if you want a hand
Marc
mlegowski@hotmail.com
Running a PFC with base map? 110% fuel stench isn\'t uncommon mate!!!
Get that comp test done, thats where your answers lie!!! and the plugs are under the TB intake elbow.
Have fun!
Quote from: mikeyhmmm just been roaming around the forum and noticed more than a few rex`s have went up in flames?.
how common iss this and what causes it?
HAHAhahah reading that really made me laugh man
Main reason is people not putting out their cigarettes properly.
Seriously mate, you shouldn\'t worry about that, you would have to be seriously unlucky, or get caught up in the oncoming WWIII
right guys here goes.
took the rex out this morning engine wasnt that hot(mind u temp guage doesnt work.)car went great some back fire but ran ok.
later on once i had the car on the rampto check over,car was ticking over for a while so i gather engine was pretty hot.
went for a run and boy she didnt like it in any gear.
seemed to pop and bang around 3500 and stuttured abit and didnt go to well.
got it back to garage and on tick over reved it slowly and it went right up to 6-7ish with no probelms??????
only other thing noticed was blue/white smoke on idle but non on test drive.
right next bit done a quick compretion check on it using tester we had in work.
dont know if i was doing it right but with the button pressed in engine turning over it bounced about around 90-100 psi on all 4 spark plug gaps.
not sure if this isd ok but im sure you`ll let me know.
had a look in the engine bay and found a cpl of small metal pipes that didnt seem to have anything attached to them.
i took a cpl of pics wondered if theres ment to be pipes attached or not.
can i send them to someone as ive not got a clue how to put them up here.
right hopefully that should keep you all busy reading for a while lol
and hopefully iots an electrical fault rather than a re-build but not fussed either way.
noticed the temp and fuel gauge are not working(sure its just needing new sensors)
theres a metal/rubber pipe that runs from engine(just above the turbo) 2 bolt flange fix,along the side of the gearbox and looks like its ment to be attached to something as theres a hose clip on it?
theres a switch thats broken and the wire goes to the sump,got a cpl of pics on that as well.
Is the car running standard exhaust, could be that the catalytic converter has melted? This had happened to mine, car used to run like a bag of sh*t. Never liked high revs in any gear, had no real power, wasn\'t smooth driving at all.
nope its been de-cated
car used to drive ok(well so the guy says)
i was maybe thinking its an electrical fault i.e ht lead or coil
The decat might be the reason for some of the backfire.
Change the plugs and leads mate..
Mine is having a job with hi revs too and i think i have the same problem.
ordered plugs and leads today.
just go tthe standard leads just now and if that works im going to go for the better ones(mags or who ever else does them)
does seem to be when engine`s hot so might just be a leads breaking down(hopefuly)
Mikey,
I could come through on friday to give you a hand if your plugs/leads arrive
I\'ve sent you an email ;)
Marc
90-100psi is 6.2-6.9bar which isn\'t bad, should be fine for a while. I\'d defo try to source a cat from somewhere just to eliminate the possibility of the de-cat upsetting things. There are a few of the metal pipes in the rat\'s nest which aren\'t used, they\'re for automatic and US spec cars which have got extra stuff on the engine. A bit of smoke/soot is probably to be expected since you\'re de-catted, althought it does sound like you\'re running rich. Is your air pump still connected? Mine would chuck all kinds of sh*t out of the exhaust when I first got it, found out the air-pump wasn\'t connected. Made it idle smoother too. With any luck, the new leads will help a great deal, what were your plugs looking like when you took them out?
ok ill try to get a hold of a second hand one(ANYONE GOT ONE).
or i might try get a second hand power commander.plugs didnt seem that bad but been in since 11/05.
you say air pump where and what is that?
ive got it booked into star performance next thursday to see what fuelings like.
good company to use in Scotland is \'The Garage\' in Wishaw, top mechanic and owner is Marc Light.
Website is //www.the-garage.co.uk, phone number on there. Wealth of knowledge and experience with rx7\'s
Marc
silly quesion but its not your garage is it?
lol just noticed you have same name
You\'ve got a Power FC? Brucie Bonus! Still, god knows what kind of map you might be running......this might be why the ignition\'s breaking up. Add a stock ECU to your shooping list just to eliminate any issues there might be with the Power FC. They can be had on ebay for as little as a tenner. You can always pop the PFC back on later when you\'re done a few mods and you\'re ready to get it mapped properly. The air pump sits on the left hand side of the engine (looking from the front of the car) and is belt driven by the crank. It\'s got a little clutch on the drive pulley (like on an air-con compressor) and switches off above ~2000rpm. It pumps air down to the cat via the Air Control Valve (ACV) which is connected to the Lower Inlet Manifold (LIM). Chances are if you\'re running a PFC and de-cat, the air pump might have been removed.
ive not got a pvc fitted(dont know where that came from)
im in 2 minds whether to get one or a cat.my exhaust system has a huge 3.5 maybe more pipe directly from the down pipe(which i have a brand new stainless steel one to replace).
everythng else on the car is standard so mmmm not sure
took it for a run just now drove good but didnt have the go that every boody says theirs does.
think ill wait till friday for leggy to pop across and see what he thinks.
Ah ok, it\'s just when you said you were gonna try to get a commander I immediately assumed you already had the APEXi Power FC fitted. I suspect that stainless downpipe will be for a LHD car and won\'t fit a RHD RX7 without modification. Is it flattened out towards the end that bolts to the turbo pack?
lol im good and leathal with the buring torch.
think il do a search see if anyone`s got a second hand pfc or ind a good deal on one.
would it not having a cat slow it down?
the pipes under the plenum are just straight throughs so no worries there.
seee what you all mean about the rats nest thing looks fun(just make sure not to remove all those pipes).
so looks like engines not ready to give up yet might just be electric or exhaust related.
if i go for a pfc i take it its best to maybe get induction kit and other after market bits at the same time.saves remapping every time i fit new bits.
not going to go mad on the engine mods happy with the engine just now(well once its running abit better)
what do you all recommend to add on?