Hello again,
It seems I have one more problem
when ride is warm everything works fine, but
when it\'s get hot I loose boost
I can\'t push accelator harder, because it starting to throtle down
if I ride without boost everything fine
If I push gas pedal harder it stoping engine
if I stand in place and push gas pedal I can year puh puh puh the car is "shooting"
What coud be the problems
to much fuel and it do not burn
need to change spurk plug and wires
somewhere is boost leak
ect.
now reading this one
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/1989_1991/04B_Fuel_and_emission_control_systems_turbo.pdf (http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/1989_1991/04B_Fuel_and_emission_control_systems_turbo.pdf)
and can\'t find any problems :mad:
McPie
If the problem is only happening when you open the accelerator right up (WOT) or/and when on boost I would look at the Ignition and fueling first.
Check the plugs are ok, if not fit new ones.
Check the plug leads are all securely in place
Check all the engine bay earthing points are in good condition.
Ensure Air Flow meter is plugged in properly.
Ensure Pressure sensor is connected properly.
Are you running a good grade of petrol?
When did the Fuel filter last get changed? (If in doubt change it)
Hope this helps :)
Is there any smoke form the exhaust?
Have you Compression tested it recently?
Do you have a boost gauge fitted? what boost does it read? Could it be Overboosting and Cutting?
Does it have a Cat fitted? and is that in good condition?
I already ordered new wires
still can\'t unscrew old spark plugs have new to replace
could be ignition coil
next week will chaeck for compresion.
I have stock boost gauge it shows vacum
I think I have air leak in intake system will change HOSES
Propblem that cat was removed and waiting for downpype
I\'d like to put back cat, but have no and cant fint it anywhere
propably will install resonator.
Fuel filter don\'t know, but I have one new will replace
But there a problem when car is heated whell
Ensure Air Flow meter is plugged in properly.
Ensure Pressure sensor is connected properly.
where are these conections, can any one show photos? thanks in advance
Regards
McPie
air flow meter is attached to the box your air filter lives in.
the pressure sensor is about size of a match box and lives directly behind the airbox on the front of the strut tower and has a vac pipe and a few wires plugged into it.
personally tho i think it sounds like simple like ignition leads have worn out.
it seems to be problem with ignition and maybe a fuel cut
propably the problem is in spark wires
because cold engine/warm engine works perfectly. after heat problem begin :-( and I haveto to ride my FC on westagate without boost.
early morning I get a llittle white smoke, but is normal 2-3 miutes of engine warming and smoke gone.
Thank you all for the answers
Regards
Tomas
replaced wires and there is no efect, but
when turn off and again start engine everything works fine
where could be the reason ?
pls. delete this post
so when you put your foot down it isnt combusting right? - your plugs leads coils and etc seem fine its just happens under load??
wierd!! to me it sounds like it isnt getting the right air and fuel mix - you confused me with your comment about swtiching engine off and on and then totally fine??? how long does it stay fine?
So it only shows the problem when its warmed up?
Can you list the parts you have checked/changed for us?
I don\'t know how long from home till job there is only 13 km
after ~10km problem start. After off & start engine there is only ~3km
everything works fine. To job usualy rideing withou boost.
Whel truth that the problem is with warm engine. I laso have knock/detonation gauge and some time it beeping me. then releace accelarator or shift next gear.
I\'ve check turbo pypes for leak - OK
I\'ve check spark plug wires, they were DEAD, changed - OK
Can\'t check for spark plugs because can\'t take it out of engine, Have new one but can\'t change.
This week planing to check compresion propably will try to use not 95E but 98E petrol.
As I thin car trying to boost and air meeter doesn\'t works goos enaught and PC makes fule cut. Proparbly overboost. Boost gauge shows ~ 0.3BAR
I know that near front left light shoud be wire (checker for self diagnostic)
I can\'t find it to make a short circuit. I have a diode in panel and
when problem start it light. Not bling nling, only light. By manual As I understand that shoud be
Ensure Air Flow meter is plugged in properly.
Ensure Pressure sensor is connected properly.
Looking for any comments.
Regards
McPie
Hello again
I\'ve checked compresion on my T2 and on both rotor is same 6 BAR
by manual it is ok :)
also I replaces old spurk plugs, those looked like that
(http://http://images.bite.lt/banga/files/club/200608/44d4328bc79d7.jpg) (//%5BURL=http://images.bite.lt/banga/files/club/200608/44d4328bc79d7.jpg%5Dhttp://images.bite.lt/banga/files/club/200608/44d4328bc79d7.jpg%5B/URL%5D)
I have one more TII ECU or EGI what ever(code on car ecu and on one I have ID mach), will try to replace and will will the problem disapear.
any komenets?
6 bar seems a little bit low?
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/1989_1991/01_engine.pdf (http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/1989_1991/01_engine.pdf)
C-6 and C-7 page it says 6 bar. for turbo car.
Bret pls. tell me then hoe much it shoud be?
As I understand only for N/A it should be ~9BAR
I\'m not sure off the top of my head but \'i think the n/a is 9.5 and the 13bt is 9.1? (I\'m sure someone will correct of im wrong)
I used simple manometer, like this one http://www.marolotest.com/english/outils/im2hd/500645.jpg (http://www.marolotest.com/english/outils/im2hd/500645.jpg)
propably it do not show as well schould special manometer for ROTOR engines.
can some one check engine with this one
http://photofile.ru/photo/caesar/31676/large/20846959.JPG (http://photofile.ru/photo/caesar/31676/large/20846959.JPG)
and then with simple manometer
http://www.marolotest.com/english/ou...2hd/500645.jpg (http://www.marolotest.com/english/ou...2hd/500645.jpg)
and pls. write the results, I want to see what is diference...
what could be the reasons, of low compresion?
rebuild was before 2500km
you have that mazda code reader?!!!!!! where in the hell did you find that!
no low compression you would probably know about it - very hard to start - flooding all the time etc...
did you check fuel pressure?
no I haven\'t check
As I said the problem with warm engine.
Also Greddy e manage propably can make a mistake, bu there was no mistakes before.
I used to diods to find trouble code.
When problem starts the diods just light and do not off. As I understand
ECU do not respond
Mean while the presure sensor wire in hot temperature can loose OHM.
One more thing oil pump is disconected to burning chamber and use 2 stroke oil into fuel tank.
Is there possibility, that pomp do not work and ECU recievs an error?
So do I have to change wires? or what schould I look for?