Hello all
I just did a swope of my own corrado (r32 enine in it lol but not finished) for my mates RX7 FD3S Efini type R ive been told but def a Efini
He hasnt used it in the last few months
so when he droped it off to me on a trailer
started up great went to 2000rpm
then slowly started to lower itself, but it only lowered to 1500. He told me take it for a spin as its been sitting and that clear it up and then go back to normal as with him used to idle about 800-900 rpm
Been using the car and the idle been getting worse i.e going up form 1500 rpm to 2000rpm in traffic and one fo the probs was the inlet to servo pipe as it was really cracked
Changed that over and now the car drops idle to about 1450 and only way to lower is using clutch (i.e foot on the brake car in gear and use clutch to lower it)
I def can tell its not a vacum leak as there is a solid idle and pulls fine and no loss of boost
and u can tell its something electrical that controling it/keeping the idle high
so does anyone have any clue what it could be or know of how i can diagnose the car i.e if u buy a tool that tells u etc?
thank you in advance
??????????????
have you adjusted the idle stop on the throttle ?
have you adjusted the idle stop on the throttle ?
isnt there a way to check errors like on the FC ??
you can connect 2 LED\'s to it and it will show you the error code - the FD must have something similar
if you get no joy - then speak to clive at shyauto - he should beable to offer advice for free :D
Sty
isnt there a way to check errors like on the FC ??
you can connect 2 LED\'s to it and it will show you the error code - the FD must have something similar
if you get no joy - then speak to clive at shyauto - he should beable to offer advice for free :D
Sty
what is up with this forum tonight?
everything getting duplicated lol
also when out for a drive with a mate
and starting it with clutch down makes the revs stay low which i read on here means something?
also got to say this now Clive is one top guy he the one that supplied the alu rad to my mate (previous owner) and this week sorted me out with my water pipe problem
took the time to listen and gave me a few things to try still got to get boost gauge on there
I strongly recomend Clive at shy autos putty he so far away :(
Also going to do the TPS check make sure thats reading fine
Gerry yep I have
what its doing ti goes like this
2000 - 1800 -1600 - 1500/1400 - 1200 then back upto 1500/1400
but found when u start it clutch down as recomend as a test somehwere it stays about 1000 for a while then when u depress either goes back up or stays there
Gerry yep I have
what its doing ti goes like this
2000 - 1800 -1600 - 1500/1400 - 1200 then back upto 1500/1400
but found when u start it clutch down as recomend as a test somehwere it stays about 1000 for a while then when u depress either goes back up or stays there
First is the car Stock?
Does it have a Power Fc fitted?
Has it had any work done Recently?
Have you had it Compression tested?
I never like it when the idle plays up or has been turned up. This is a sign it won\'t idle properly at the stock level, this could be a number of things (bad air leak,Low comp,faulty Sencer etc etc) but it would worrie me thet is been done for a reason if its solid (does\'nt hunt)
One thought - it may be idleing lower than you think. My rev counter often reads 5-600 rpm more than it\'s actually doing - only verifiable by the Apexi commander unit. It\'s part fo the common problems with ageing parts on these cars.
your 1500 rpm could easily be 900 in reality, only way to tell easily would be to get hold of an apexi ecu and commander for a while to see what\'s hapening although there\'s probably a clever way to tell from a pin out on the diagnostic connector!
ok
Stock engine stock ECU
K&N airfilters, De-cat and exhaust system,
Compression done week ago 7 bar all the way round on both front and rear
Idle sits about 20
TPS is perfect
Nothign happens if u unplug idle valve either during running or start up even thou the engins revs are chaning by itself on start up
Its def something to do with heat
as when i went out with it on saturday night it was nice and cool it would sit about 1000-1200 rpm but took it out mid day sunday and boiling couldnt get it under 1400 rpm :(
starting it with clutch in did make it idle lower but once hot again went back up
so that yyou can understand it does this
start up 3000rpm -> 2000 -> 1800 -> 1600/1500 -> 1400 -> 1200 -> at this point depending if its cool or not outside it goes back up to 1500/1400 if its hot or goes to 1000 if its cool and if left siiting for long time runnign starts to go back up
hope that helps
nope sadly def idling high u can hear it and its poping through the exhaust
when its about 1000-1200 rpm idles nicely great burdle but once it goes higher than that u smeel fuel and get popiing out of the exhaust
Air con on will raise idle a bit (2-300 rpm). Sounds like somethng else isn\'t quite happy though. Fuel smell out the back isn\'t uncommon though but it almost sounds as though the cold start function isn\'t disengaging or is cutting back in. Maybe a dodgy therm/temp sensor?
At the mo if i hit the aircon button it actually brings the idle down which is weird if its meant to go up
but as it need gassing im not using it if not i would have it on all the time at the mo lol
its def sound like to me the warm up thing RX\'s got as it goes all well and dandy but then goes back up
where are the sensors etc i can check thats controls the warm up?
Sorry, beyone my limited range of suggestions now!
thats cool mate
thanx for the info :) and advice is greatfull
hopefully get it sorted so i can enjoy it as its always been my dream jap car (only nice one to ever come out from there IMO) and right now looking like a disappointment :(
Quotewhere are the sensors etc i can check thats controls the warm up?
There\'s a coolant supply at the back of the throttle body, which is not only used to keep the inlet air warm in cold weather (To stop it from freezing) it\'s also used to warm the wax rod that moves something (Can\'t remember what off the top of my head!) that adjusts the adle speed for hot and cold temps.
ah sweet getting somewhere now :)
is this the thing side of the throttle body thats runs a 2nd double throttle that guys in america remove? was reading up somehwere
is this know to stick? etc meaning its not closing properly and off course as it gets hotter becomes more stickerier makeing hard for what ever it is to shut fully?
which could also explain why nothing happens when i unplug the idle valve?
Im sure you have already checked this but check that your throttle cable is not too tight. :)
yep throttle cable and throttle stops etc all checks and perfect
the more i think about it the more this warm up control thing is to blame from what i remember reading up on the yank forums
might have to get rid of it like they have over there
anyone done it here?
Might be worth just by-passing the coolant supply to the throttle body (that controls the wax rod) just to see if has an effect on the idle. Good write up on how to do it here: http://robrobinette.com/throttle_body_coolant.htm What you\'re describing deffo sounds like the Accelertated Warm-up System (AWS) as found on US cars, but that doesn\'t explain why the revs would go back up when it warms up. Besides that I\'m pretty sure the j-spec cars didn\'t have AWS
thanx for the link mate ill have a read
mine def has the wax rod thing and at present moment got past this by screwing in the screw that sits on it all the way in and like it says on there just runs lumpy to begin with
at the mo im trying to find either someone local to me to try out their idle valve (or jsut to look at it compared to mine) or actually buy one that is know to work as I think it all comes down to the idle valve, as im certain its seized which means not shutting properly on idle to lower it enough IMO
The going back up when hot think has got to do with my throttle body being dirty but now ive given it a good old clean hopefully should sort that out
out of interest in the inlet there is a set of butterflies/throttle thats looks like its controled by vacumn in the top top holes
can see them when u take throttle body off
what the hell is that for lol
That\'s your double throttle, it closes partially when your engine\'s cold to stop you from giving the car too much stick. http://www.rotormafia.com/dtc/ A sure-fire way to tell if your car has AWS is to look at the large plastic elbow that connects to the throttle body. If it\'s got a pipe coming off the back (towards the bulkhead) then it\'s got AWS, if it\'s blocked off with a rubber cap (like on my j-spec car) then it hasn\'t or it\'s been disabled. There\'s a pic of the AWS solenoid in that link. But anyways yeah, it does sound like there could be an issue with the idle valve. Have you tried giving it a good clean? I know the VW ones buzz when they\'re working properly, might be the same for the Mazda ISV
nope def blocked off like u said on the elbow
see i actually thought that good place to put another dump valve lol hence why it was there
also yep took the idle valve off, if uve seen one ull know what i mean
gave it good clean but that white plastic cover only moves back about 1mm like it hits something inside stoping it from moving and thats it and yep it buzz\'s but on VW u actually saw it move when u put contact on (i.e to start it as to let as much air in as possible) but this does nothing doesnt move just stays sat solid 1 mm back
hence why i think what ever controling the diaphram is jammed open not lowering the idle enough