Has anyone got any tips on replacing the metering oil pump with the engine in the car, I woulde rather not strip down more than i have to.
Cheers
are you replacing the lines aswell, i would as these get brittle. What engine and set up do you have? If its stock twins i cant remember if you can get to it with the turbos in place. Its just held on with 3 or 4 10mm bolts. Then you follow the loom to get the plug. If you are changing the lines its a lot more involved and you have to remove the UIM.
I would just run premix until you have the engine rebuilt.
I\'ve bought a blanking plate from the states and intend to remove mine completely and run premix (better anyway), can I just cut the lines and leave them in place or will I have to remove them and blank them off too ??
its a 93 FD with standard twins, it apears to be the position sensor thats duff and the ecu just jumps in to limp home mode once its warmed up, from what i can see in the manual i\'ll have to take the air pump and watter pump off but might get away with leaving the turbo\'s in place
you should really remove the injectors and block the holes with a short bolt or something similar. It will be much easier on yours being single turbo\'d.
I think the oil injectors have some kind of one way valve so i dont think compression will leak out if you just cut the lines but i couldnt be sure.
Quote from: IanFiTheDwarfits a 93 FD with standard twins, it apears to be the position sensor thats duff and the ecu just jumps in to limp home mode once its warmed up, from what i can see in the manual i\'ll have to take the air pump and watter pump off but might get away with leaving the turbo\'s in place
what do you mean by position sensor?
Not really heard of OMP\'s failing so it may be something else.
three of the wires to the OMP go to a position sensor, just a variable resistor.
I\'m getting fault code 27 have tried a spare ecu and tested the wiring leaving the OMP. the stepper motor resistances of the OMP are fine and although the sensor resistances are within the range in the manual they are all very close making me suspicious.
i\'m afraid you have gone one step beyond my capabilities, i\'m not sure what will help but then i\'m running pre mix!
I had a position sensor fail on mine too - so they obviously do go, occassionally
started stripping it down then began to second guess myself (probably when i saw what i had to take off just to get to the OMP) so I reset the ecu and went for another run and no more fault code!
Quote from: antnicukyou should really remove the injectors and block the holes with a short bolt or something similar. It will be much easier on yours being single turbo\'d.
I think the oil injectors have some kind of one way valve so i dont think compression will leak out if you just cut the lines but i couldnt be sure.
Anyone else offer any comment on this because I really dont want to have to take of the UIM unless I have to.
Much rather just snip and go if it\'s OK to do so.
UIM is easy to take off, and not something to be overly concerned about
Do it properly or do it twice... off with the lot mate. Go on, take the plunge! Get the spanners out and get stuck in.
Right the blanking plate has arrived now, does anyone know of the whereabouts of a how to guide on its removal ??
Thanks in advance...
nikp, did the ecu go into limp home mode when you\'re OMP position sensor failed?
No, as i had the Apexi ECU.
I was thinking to remove the pump, I assume when you remove it the heat light will keep flashing, how can you avoid this?
To remove the lines you should really remove the OMP, belts, UIM, rats nest, fuel rail, fuel lines, AVC, bla bla.
Its not really that simpler job.
Quote from: BobfishTo remove the lines you should really remove the OMP, belts, UIM, rats nest, fuel rail, fuel lines, AVC, bla bla.
Its not really that simpler job.
Can I Just remove the OMP and leave the lines in place untill it goes bang one day and then get the lines removed at that point ??