Mazda Rotary Club

alright not one to admit defeat easily im going to have to grovel...

can someone pleeeassseeee help me get my fc goin? the engine is in. the wiring is isorted (to the best of my knowledge) but i cant get the bugger started i know its nearly there cos it coughs a bit and then just turns over - im real stuck and its getting me down...

since owning that FD i have been proper skint and i need to sell this car - otherwise im going to have to resort to breaking it (dont bother posting asking for bits off it!) - which being such a mint car isnt what i want to do!

this is my last hope i need to get it sorted before summer ends.. is anyone out there?!

obviously i will reinburse you somehow / someway for your most kind effort!

Nas

i know this is daft but have you checked

1 - that you are getting fuel
2 - that each plug is firing
3 - you have the plugs in the right places

eliminate these and you are in with a chance :D

Stu

i can smell fuel

i electrocuted myself holding a HT lead from the rear rotor while my sister (who knocked someone over in a car park at 5mph) cranked it

the plugs are in the right places...

edit i dont think its flooded cos it never has done it before??  

im so bloody confuzzled i need another person to help me who isnt a total noob like me!! :3Confused  :2Confused

i will pay for petrol (as long as you dont drive a rotor!  :p )

edit again

it did start for about 7 seconds and then i turned it off cos i was choking on the fumes (no exhaust on and it all blew into the car) then all that screaming and whooping the car thought bollocks to him i aint gonna go again!!!

errrr holding a HT lead shouldnt hurt matey ?????

and have you checked that the plug leads are to the right plugs ( thats what i meant to say before ! LOL )

have you put a plug into each lead and checked to see if the plugs are firing ??

if you have fuel and a spark then try to bump start it - 20mph should see you right - if this works then you need to look at the starter etc...

if you CANT bump it - then ... errr pass ??

more ideas :

1 - if you crank it on the starter does it actaully spin ?????
2 - have you flooded it with all this trying ( hence the smell of fuel )
3 - when you start it - depress the clutch and try and start it

im off to sand some mirrors - i will check back in a bit

Stu

Stu

yeh i was kinda holding the blue bit on the end and it bloody hurt! the plugs are new!

i know its a really good engine as the oil is a beautiful golden colour and its got good compression...

i cant bump it cos i need a second person who knows how to do it!

cmon and help me grinder - ill pay for your diesel - feed you and ill even rub your shoulders and stuff!!

Take the plugs out and see if there wet if they are chances are its flooded. If you\'ve got a blow torch then warm up the plugs to dry them if you\'ve got new ones even better. Give the battery a good charge overnight. While the plugs are out put a little ATF (auto transmittion oil/ power steering oil) in each lower plug hole turn it over by hand a third of a turn and a bit more oil then another third. Crank it over with no plugs in expect to get a lot of crap out of the plug holes. Refit the plugs if you\'ve another vehicle handy put jump leads between the two then give it a go. You will get loads of smoke out of the back which will only clear after a good run. The other alternative is the ATF trick and tow start.
Kevin

I had my UIM off to replace the OMP spider when i put it all back together it would\'nt start more like a cough start.  :3Confused

It turned out to be the UIM was slightly resting on the bracket near the oil filler neck so not mating correctly with the LIM so causing a VAC leak.

I searched and checked every wire and lead until whipping it all off again to find my error.  :Thumbsup!

In short check for VAC leaks

Paul

that was one of my next suggestions Kev :D :D

Nas , i would love to come over - just a shame you are sooo bloody far away

try what kev said and see what happens ( if you dont have a blow torch - hold the plugs with pliers and stick them in the gas ring ! )

will one of your mates not tow you down the road ?? - it will only take you 20 mins tops and it will answer a LOT of questions

to be honest - it does sound like you have flooded it , this is how i got the cab started ...

1 - remove and clean plugs
2 - remove EGI fuse ( stops fuel )
3 - crank with no plugs in
4 - make sure battery is VERY good
5 - put everything back in
6 - try and start the car
7 - now then the fun bit - if its still not wanting to fire
8 - look where the fuel lines come out the fuel filter and into the rails - get some locking pliers - clamp the fuel line closed
9 - jump back in and fire her up
10 - she should fire with the excess fuel in the housing
11 - you will have enough time to jump out and remove the pliers

i flooded mine once ( the EGI ) when we went to the pub so phoned the AA and the guy came out and did steps 8 - 11 and got it started in SECONDS

after that i always carried some pliers in the glove box - yeah its a cheapo trick - but you know me matey :D :D :D and i used the same technique on my mates car

SUPPOSEDLY the S5 have a switch on the throttle that if you hold it to the floor whilst cranking it shuts the fuel off - i have never tried this as i have never flooded the black one

its something else to try

whilst im writing an epic post - make sure you have decent fuel in the tank and not dragging crap thru the lines

thats all i can think of at this moment intime - but like i said - try everything we have said - it will narrow down a lot of questions !!

Stu

( too windy outside to be sanding mirrors - so gave up without starting !! )

I had a couple of instances where its been a bugger to start, if its almost catching, tow start it, works every time for me, reasonably hassel free.

it is important on a TII that the AFM is sealed properly to the front of the turbo as any air leak will mean unmetered air gets in and can make it hard to start.

Have you got the Timing right? i had a problem ages ago. turned out i did\'nt have the two dot lined up when i fitted the cas (if its been removed and refitted), set the bottom pulley to TDC (line the mark on the pulley with the wire pointer) then take the cas and remove the two screws holding on the top cover, now if you look at the base of it you\'ll see a line and on the gear you\'ll see a dot (line them up) then by holding the rotor in place (inside the top cover) lower it into the hole in the engine, as it ingauges let the rotor turn and then tighten it up roughly about center of the ajustment and put the cover back on.

Another i came across was when a mate fited a BOV and did\'nt block the hole of  in the Intake pipe, Dumb but it was having none of it..

What exactly have you done? was it just a lift one engine out and drop in another? or did you rebuild it? Does it pop and bang? If it was taken from another car did it run ok then?

Quote from: grindererrrr holding a HT lead shouldnt hurt matey ?????

LOL it would if it aint conected to the plug at the other end.. The juice will take the route with the least resistance so it will usaly go to the plug but if there is no plug to go to it will track to you (your a quite good conductor) If you where holding the Wire with a plug in on an earth you would\'nt get a shock.

Quoteerrrr holding a HT lead shouldnt hurt matey ?????

You can have a go with one of mine next time we meet Stu............don\'t plan on using your arm too much the following day though

hahah yeh having hold of that HT lead was a shock!! made me nearly soil myself - lesson learned!!!

thanks for the replies you lot! now i have some more ideas to try out i will give them a go! Grizzly i simply took the engine out whole and placed it into another chassis so i havent taken anything like the crank angle and i checked the timing its ok.

first i thought that i had missed something but i have double checked and i think its just being a pain for no good reason - now if i do get it started what next? leave it runnin for a while yes? but will it start ok the next time? what do you guys reckon i should do to enable it to become a reliable starter once again?

Antnic the AFM is a little loose i will tighten it up more better tomorrow - didnt realise that it would be an issue...

failing the suggestions above i will convince the ol man to tow me up the road hopefully i will be able to drive it back down the street.

Cheers again :)
 
Nas

does sound like it\'s flooded. Also MAKE sure the leads are the right way round (I sepak from rather embarrassing experience - I had mine delivered to RX Motors after I\'d fitted the Microtech and it ran VERY rich and rough - basically spitting fuel out of the exhaust! turned out I\'d cross wired the ignitors and burned out one of the circuits BUT I\'d also had the trailing HT leads on the leading plugs and visa versa - yes it will run - sort of, but you wouldn\'t believe how badly!)

ok yesterday i took the plugs out gave them a wipe and put them on the end of a HT lead and gave it a crank im getting good spark. bled the clutch ready to go -

got my mate to come over and tow start me i lifted the clutch up at 25 mph but it didnt go.

However it was interesting as now i think the problem is that im not getting any fuel - i can get it to "fire" and start on "easy start" so it must be that im not seeing any fuel come in... I took off the fuel pipe coming from the fuel filter on firewall and i got sprayed with fuel!

so that looks like its not getting past the injectors?

im so close to getting it going now!!

can you hear the injectors clicking at all  ( dont ask me what it means - it says that in the haynes manual ! )

i will have a read now .. :D

Stu

clicking? no but i can hear a faint whirrrring noise coming from round there??

you got the fuel lines on the right way around??? The three near the Fuel filter.

hmm -

im sure i did have them the right way around???? im going to try swapping them round for the hell of it -- im hoping its a minor oversight stopping me lol.

any more news matey ???

does any one know if the clutch switch would make a difference ?

You may be on to it Stu. This is the car that was being converted from Auto to manual isn\'t it? I wonder if there was a fuel cut to the ECU on the shift as well as isolating the starter motor.
Kevin

thats the one kev

nas mentioned it to me , and i remember reading about it in the haynes manual - but it doesnt actually tell you what the switch does ???

i suppose i could unplug mine and see if mine start ( must admit i dont like that idea though :( )

yeh grinder! its easy theres a plug in the back of it - very simple procedure! but i thought that clutch switch basically stops it from back firing when changing gears!? dont need that do ya! lol

I have been messing around trying to sort other stuff out.. im gonna go have a bash now before it gets dark i reckon

right i swapped the fuel lines over and it didnt work! meh.. im sure this is an electrical problem of some sort.

Grinder kindly sent me a link on how to test the injectors - i will try that in the morning. keep yous posted!

thanks for the help so far guys!

i dont think the clutch switch does much to be honest - in the haynes manual it says that you have to depress the clutch to get the car to crank .. BUT there is a clutch switch sensor on the ECU - if you have the factory service manual - it could be worth checking what voltage it SHOULD have

if its 12v , then just feed it 12v and try it again ???

see what the injector voltage comes back with

keep us all posted matey

me again :D

i know this is silly - but have you checked the ECU for error codes ??

if there isnt any then thats great - you can check it with LED\'s i think

have a search round - there are the odd few posts about it

ta

stu

i havent got round to checking the ecu for faults or sticking an led on that pin out. if i go that far - where will i find the interpretation table for the fault codes -- FSM?

im the way i figure is

there are three main things that make a rotor not start.

Fuel Ignition Compression - i have two of these - im just getting no fuel -

I know i have fuel getting to the engine bay thats for sure as i still think i smell of petty. lol - so the problem lies between the fuel filter and the chamber so it must be my injectors not squirting. I can get it to pop and fire briefly using starting spray (easy start) so i know that it will run once i get fuel in.  I stuck some a gallon of new fuel in as i know that old fuel degrades after a while.

Im going to have to buy a new multimeter as i have lost one of the probes (i found this multimeter in netto and cost me 3 quid lol) and then check out to see if im getting voltage at the injectors.

thing is i dont want to start ripping off the UIM cos i have no doubt that will cause me more problems!

ok after reading through rx7club.com i found a good way to test the injectors.

i have to remove the CAS and then spin it i should hear clicks from the injectors.

Trouble is im not too confident with timing as i dont have the strobe or anything. someone know how to align it properly?

no idea matey

there is someone in the states with the same prob as you - but thats an NA

ok got the chief mechanic from Jag coming round later to have a look / help me out. keep you guys posted.

read this : http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=553677

i think im going to try checking my fuses are alright again.

Have you checked the AFM? if theres any sort of problem with that it will lead you on a merry dance :yes  
Check the BAC valve is operating on top of the UIM.

 If you have a spark and have fuel then your problem is most liekly going to be one of compression/sealing.  Id recommend running a premix and squirting oil into the chambers before you try it again.
 Make sure you\'re plugs are in good condition too, a dodgy set of plugs will give you all the problems you are having!

 If all else fails then give me a bell and we can have a natter over the phone.

 :wave

plugs new, compression is good cos i know its a good engine before it was removed it started right on the button! i think its fuel - i dont know why i put that i could smell it cos now i cant. how can i get oil in the chamber without an oil can? afm i dont have a spare one - but surely if it was goosed then the ecu would just go into limp mode and still let me start?

if someone with a t2 could do us a fabour and check fuel hoses . i need to know which one from the fuel filter goes to the one on the right of the pipe going to the charcoal canister or if it goes underneath it?

G i read that thread he has the same problem as me - i did a search and the same suggestions get thrown in but i cant see any "i fixed it, it was X causing the problem" posted. meh.

i was on that rx7club for a couple of hours today - all i could find was how to check stuff.. but some suggestions require an afternoon i guess. im still looking for a stupid mistake lol.

Hi Nas,

 Bear in mind, if the engien has been sitting then there will be no oil film around any of the seals, with no oil you essentially have very poor compression.  Can you get hold of a syringe or something similar?
 If the AFM is chucking out dogy signals then it can be impossible to start. (car seems to catch then dies, or just wont fire)

haha a syringe no chance lol! Brett thanks for the suggestions - its just occured to me that i could improvise something - im going to use the funnel from a petrol can and pour oil down it that way im no doubt goign to get it everywhere! ill give it a go mate but without smellin raw fuel i think that it might not make a difference.

any more news matey ??

Stu

yeh my mate shows up and spent two hours on it.
we double checked EVERY essential wire and they check out fine AFAWK

here is wat we assertained before rain and darkness stopped play

+12v coming from the ecu injector wires,. all rest of loom seems to be fine.
i got spark
it cranks
The fuel rail is pressurising
compression sounds good when being cranked (no exhaust after downpipe)
we find that theres simply NO FUEL going in. although the fuel rail is pressurised as when i undid the nut on the end of the top fuel rail a hiss and a spray of fuel came out.

now i need to ask you lot

is there anything state which would prevent the ecu from firing those injectors? - what you lot reckon i didnt disturb those wires as the engine came out with the loom still attached!

is there a check engine light? i dont see one light up is this going to be a factor.  as there is a wire on the the plug 1 going to the ecu which on the fsm is supposed to have a check wire coming from it but the pin on the plug is blank!

my netto multimeter isnt fast enough to see the momentary flips on the injector wires and theres voltage getting into the engine bay near the condensor. so hes going to bring a neolite (i think thats what its called) with him next time he comes round

i think hes confirmed my earlier view - injectors not flipping whats my next step?

Take out the injectors and check them, make sure that they are switching and make sure they are not clogged.  Its going to mean removing the UIM and IC, but probably worth it!

yeh i was going to mention that if it was flooding and fuel was going into the chamber then i would smell it coming out of the downpipe - we was cranking that engine like a good un - purposefully trying to flood it - but couldnt smell that petty.

i was afraid you would say that brett - is there no way i can get to an injector and then hot wire it? i couldnt see the primarys only one top one that UIM looks like a right basterd to take off.

Does the car have an imobiliser??   I went to help a friend who had done a head gasket on a diesel renault clio only last week, he had spent a whole day trying to get it started, as soon as I got there I pressed the button on the key to lock and unlock the car and it started first time.  i was not popular for a few minutes.   you did say it started once, so what has changed since then??  just a thought.

no immobiliser  - lol not that easy this oen mate haha although i wish it was :(

Quote from: TURBOIINUTTAHno immobiliser  - lol not that easy this oen mate haha although i wish it was :(

The trouble is when you find the little bugger, it usually is something very simple..  Are you using the same ECU and wiring as from the other car?  have you checked continuity between the injectors and where the loom runs to the car, the engine wiring does get very brital.  Have you checked the fuel pressure? filter? if you have all of the above you do really need to get the injectors checked as mentioned above. just seems odd to me that you got it started before.... but thats cars for you...  good luck. i will keep my thinking cap on.

WAIT A MINUTE!!!

QuoteSo you don\'t have power going to the injectors is your problem. I\'d say go look at your solneoid resistor package and make sure it\'s plugged up to the harness. It\'s located below the afm/filter and mounted on the fender with two nuts. It has a aluminum cover and has one large electrical connector going to it. IF it\'s there, the pull the plug off and make sure the center wire on the connector has 12vdc. It should be a black/yellow

Maybe its my fuel pump rewire thats the problem ere!!!! but did incorporate the relays into the new wiring system like it says in the "fuel pump rewire" writeup?!!! im going to check this tomorrow

There is a cutout in the airflow meter that changes the Voltage to the EFI pump from 9 ish volts to 12v when running. So that can cause confusion. That relay is also a **** when it plays up.

To deflood You have to Pull the ECU fuse (Second in from the motor) And crank out the motor. Use a baby feeder syringe to prime the motor with oil. (Auto trans fluid works well)

Also clean the plugs with Areostart or another Ether based starting compound

Go to Halfords and grab from the bike section a pair of NGK 7\'s. That should start it if it was flodded.

To check for Injector clicking , Use a plastic tube as a stethescope with the Fuel pump fuse pulled. Take the cover off the crank angle sensor and tap the primary trigger with a screwdriver in the pickup tip. (with the ignition on)

hey thanks for the suggestion - but im 100% sure its not flooded dude. reason being is how can it when there is no fuel goin in?! id be able to smell it ****ing out of the downpipe?!

i have a spare relay (lucky i grabbed that!) the plugs are very very clean cos they are brand new.

i didnt sleep last nite thinking about wht the problem might be.

I have decided that it cant be the fuel cut off switch as it stops the fuel pump all together - as i cn hear my fuel pump running it cant be that.

Im going to have to bite the bullet and then take off that UIM arnt i. what a pain in the ass.

Anyone know if the wires to the injectors are accesible in the engine bay i couldnt see them coming out of anywhere? if i can find these then maybe i can hot wire an injector to see if it clicks?

hey vendors!!!!! got an idea? ill only be on the phone later bugging you!

did you check the voltage at the ECU like we discussed on the phone - this will tell you if the injectors are wired up right

if they are - then check for fuel rates thru them

start cheap matey - then work up the ££££ scale

Hey Stu, your right mate, i dont want to go down that road of replacing bits n bobs. (£££££\'s!!!)

I know we were getting voltage from the ecu pins mate - but i couldnt see the ground time as my multimeter is a bit crap and it is very short. the only way to see them flipping is to get a special meter/lamp thing which a my mate has.

i know the problem is with the injectors not "opening" so my fault has got to be electrical. The ecu has to be fine as it is sending the signal as far as the condensor. so between there and the injectors lies my problem!

The thing is i gotta pretty much strip the top off the engine to get at these injors (cheers for the great design mazda!!) and this naturally seems real daunting. I want to test the injectors first by hot wiring them, so does anyone know where the signal wires are routed?

It would help if anyone knows if there is any reason for the injectors not to fire assuming that the wires are fine?

Maybe I didnt read properly, but did you get any ecu codes?

I think those injectors will only fire, if the ecu knows the engine is turning. It knows its turning if it gets sginals from the crank angle sensor. THis also tells the ecu when to fire the plugs.


It if was me....
I would get a spray bottle, put petrol in it with a little oil. remove the intak just before the butterfly. now get your buddy to crank it and hold that throttle wide open.

You spray fuel in there, and try and sort of vary the mixture yourself.

It should start. If it does, we know definitely that:

1) Compression is good.
2) Spark and ECU are good ( for supplying spark at least).
3) Crank angle sensor is good.

Also, hearing it run will motivate you again !!

Then lets start figuring out why there is no fuel. You said earlier the rail was pressurising, yet we are now talking about pump / relay?

Its all my fault for trying something that hasnt really been done! to reiterate - i have swapped an s5 t2 engine and manual gb into a s4 chassis which came with an auto. i have had to chop into the original s4 harness so i can run the coils and a few other non essential items. as the s5 engine loom has the CAS TPS blah blah already on there so i didnt have to cut that loom.

When i swapped the engines over i had a problem with the inhibitor switch as it wasnt allowing me to crank so i made my own starting system. Then i thought while im at it I will rewire the fuel pump according to this.

i know in my original post i said i could smell fuel but now i think that it must have been the fuel on me when i was playing with those fuel lines. so sorry bout that!

http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/rewire.htm

Then I came to start the engine the first time it coughed into life for a bout 4 seconds then i switched off cos i couldnt breath and there wasnt much water in there. i thought it would run again subsequently not the case! i dont know why it started up that time?

it hasnt started since although i can get it to run on easy start! I cant smell fuel and when i pull the plugs they are dry as a bone. last night i thought that my fuel pump rewire had something to do with it but theres no input on the ecu for that so i doubt it.

I think im on my own with solving this one....  wish me luck!

getting to the injectors isn\'t as much of a mission as it might initially seem! I managed to get the IC, UIM and gubbins off and down to the injectors in about 30 mins, tried to replace the injectors with 1000cc items - only couldn\'t fit the things in grrr! put it back together in about 45mins!

cant suss it out - i think im not getting any signal to the injectors - i know they work on a negative pulse.

I think i have had enough - might prepare a for sale / breaking thread soon after the weekend.

Have you made sure that the wires are the right way round to the injectors ie primary not on secondary?

hey Gary

I cant even see the wires for them tbh - i think that maybe im missing a connection? i was thinking of gettin an auto electrician out - but i fear those guys i really do!

I havent messed with the injectors as i pulled the engine out of the donor complete with wiring loom still attached - on the s5 the injectors are on the middle plug going to the ecu - i have +12v showing there -

Tbh if i wipe my face clean with it id be happy - shame to break what is a perfect car - no rust whatsoever on it!

You need to do as I advised and whip off the UIM, then you can test the injectors individually, its a pain I know, but its only a mornings work, if they click when you apply a curret then they are duff, if they do then you need to start looking for a poor connection in the loom.

sat thinking reading the haynes manual :D

how did you wire you injectors up ????

its just that the s4 turbo uses low imp one and the s5 uses high ones ( or vice versa )

so have you plugged the injectors into the S4 harnes and then spliced that into the ECU or what ???

just another thought why they might not be firing - the ecu might not beable to see them ( or get the voltage to them )

im sure that the S4 wiring loom has something in it to alter the impedance ??

some other bright spark may have a better way of explaining it - but this post might help them ( and you ????????? )

Stu

checked it out and i think your onto something G. Im convinced I missed something out and i need to take another look at the wiring,.

as far as the ecu knows its still an s5 BT. the injector loom is built into the engine loom so i didnt have to touch that plug.

i reckon an injector rewire should sort this problem out. then its the next problem! :Hammer

let us know how you get on

i know it can be a problem .. im sure there is something in the loom on the S4 that alters the impedance

rx7club.com have a lot more info on this - probably as they run S4 turbos accross there and we dont

happy reading matey !!

Like Stu said, the S4 had low impedance injectors, so there is a resistor pack in the harness that will be in series with them.

If you have an S5 engine / injectos and harness - and the S4 loom, you may only be getting about half the voltage across the injector, and it may not fire reliably.  Quick fix/test is to locate and put a bridging wire across each resistor shorting them out - this should restore normallity.

Hope that helps get your beast a thrumming :3gears-rh

Cheers,

Prof :cheers

I can\'t see how the Injector Imp would cause the problem?? You can usaly tell if the injectors are workingm when you turn the Ingition on they Click even if they are not the correct ones.

I know you can\'t plug a S5 loom into a S4 injector, i also know you can\'t plug a s4 loom into a S5 ems.

If i was you, i would first check all the plugs that you took off for bent pins etc, you\'ve oviously checked for Spark and fuel, then make sure the EMS is grounded properly, if no joy check the Serial number on the EMS (make sure its a manual ems) then possably borow an EMS of some one and try it again just to make sure its working properly maybe even plug it into a diffrent car and see if that starts?? you may have dry solder in it or it may be for an Auto and its overfueling on start up???

Also if the car was an NA have you swaped the Fuel pump? Maybe there is not enough PSI going through the fuel rail?? if it will run on easy start.

I know from experiace it don\'t make any diffrence if you swap the Injector plugs round it will still start and run just not as well as if the injectors are correct.

I got one for you, Make sure the OMP is pluged in and working correctly. My Car would\'nt run when i had a bad OMP fitted a while back, that cuts the fuel on a S5.

the impedance should be fine - the s5 ecu is matched to the engine that is installed.  i dont think that it should matter really. more info on injector impedance here - http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/rotary%20pages/injector%20folder/injector.html

Im not hearing a click from the injectors when the ignition is on.

i been reading searching / reading more then searching again - and i came up with this from the rx7club -  so here i think is my answer!
---------------------

The ECU switches the injectors by grounding them. There are two black wires on the ECU that lead to a ring terminal on the vac spider on the top of the engine. Those wires are the ECU/injector grounds.

The 12v to the injectors comes from a plug on the Emissions harness. That harness runs from the ECU ....around into the engine bay and across the front of the engine to the injectors. One plug on this harness is located inside the passengers side compartment. It does not connect directly to the ECU, it connects up above and to the right of the ECU. Waaay up there. Maybe a bad connection there?

----------------

ok i didnt wire the emmisions harness plug up - i simply buggered that as i planned to ditch al of that emmisions crap - according to the above - you can see what i have done here - without realising i havent wired the constant 12V supply to the injectors. so i need to find the wire on the emmisions plug and give it 12 volts? however it doesnt say if this is s5 or s4

best get me FSM and the soldering iron out!!! i will post up progress in a day or so.

i hope this works matey

on the flip side - if it doesnt - then its one less thing to worry about :D

i found the wires going to the injectors HOORAY! but the problem is that they constantly click like mad when i put 12V to em when in the ON position?? yeh.... and how come it says in the FSM that the ecu pin outs 3w,3x,3y,3z are for the injectors - the injector wires run from the EMISSIONS harness???? HUHHHHH??????????????? :Hammer

do i run the wires from the pin outs here?? meh im all confused - think more reading about the injection system is required!

thats if i dont lose all sanity first! waheyyy lol :rolleyes:

ecu = emission control unit in fsm speak :yes

Theres four plugs on a engine harness right - three go into the ECU-ECU and one goes to the ecu lol seeeee!

there is 3 in the ECU

the other could be for the ABS ( not on the cab though ) or the stock alarm ???

lol dont worry too much about it - three plugs are for the main ecu - and one is for the emmisions! the power for the injectors runs off the emissions! luckily i cut the plug off from the s5 before i scrapped it - hoooows that!!!!!!

anyway lads - im getting my hopes up - im real close to pulling this off i can feel it!!!

better hurry Nas before you miss summer !! LOL

hey rotorheads!!!  ive wired up me injectors and now hearing them "click" when the iggy is on - the battery was low (barely turning the engine over) so ive put it on charge!!

in the meantime let us prey...

Dear God

Please help me "wing" this s4 - to s5 13bt engine swap!! yeh and we thank you for giving the human race a rotorised cabrio!! :god

amen!!

-- if it doesnt work now - no problem!! im getting the hang of this rotor business - when i finally finish this cabby and enjoyed it...

I reckon im going to rotorise my RWD 1980 mitsubishi sigma wagon!!!

yep started up pretty much right away - great feeling that was - ran it for a good five minutes before the neighbours came out tellin me to turn the racket down! :Nono!  even im slightly deaf because there was no exhaust on there.. sounded just like a bridgy!!! :) :Party :) :Thumbs-up :Viking :King :Laugh :yes

still got little odd stuff to do  --

1.    give her a bloody good clean!
2.    sort out a few scratches here n there get it mint looking
3.    fit exhaust
4.    fit new alloys n tyres
5.    fit gorgeous leather seats
6.    wire up rear fog light / reversing light
7.    MOT!
8.    wire up stereo (gotta have me tunnnnes!)
9.    fix a little seam thats come apart on the hood. (btw anyone know how   much are these to replace?)
10.  drive and enjoy!!!

anyway id like to say thanks for all the hlpful advice you lot have given me. :Ladys-man

well done:Thumbsup!

 i have been reading the tread as you have been going along and everytime i loged on i hoped to see that you had sorted it [ i think i would have given up a long time ago]

post up a pic when you get her finished:yes :Thumbs-up

Quote from: TURBOIINUTTAH9.    fix a little seam thats come apart on the hood. (btw anyone know how   much are these to replace?)

I payed £680 all in for a complete kit which came from Japan via Mazda dealers in Newbury.

it does not include the hardboard piece - but it does include inside and outside material for the whole roof.

BTW - if you do the roof, get a set of seals as well, as you might as well replace these at the same time.  My roof kit came with seals for the front edge only, and I got a set for the sides (above window and along front door leading edges) myself - easy job to fit.

Cheers,

Prof :cheers

BTW - well done for getting it started Naz ! :Thumbs-up

Quote from: g.millerwell done:Thumbsup!

 i have been reading the tread as you have been going along and everytime i loged on i hoped to see that you had sorted it [ i think i would have given up a long time ago]

post up a pic when you get her finished:yes :Thumbs-up

Hey milller cheers mate!

haha yeh - i was ready to give up enough times. This is my first real car project and although it might be easier than rebuilding an engine it was still a ball ache! i think i should spend time after wards and make a good write up for those that dont know.

hey lads do i get to appoint myself as wiring / s4 - s5 guru? :wiggle

Quote from: ProfI payed £680 all in for a complete kit which came from Japan via Mazda dealers in Newbury.

OUCH!!!!! looks like im getting me needle and thread out :rollin

Hey , well done.
Really really glad you didnt break it for parts.

well done,  can i stop holding my breath now??

Well done :D

cheers guys you never know - might show up at the JAE in this beast! i gotta get a move on tho!!!

just the easy bits left to do really - i think im going to wait till sunday to sort them out!