After 2 days of head scratching im still struggling working out where i can fit my electric water pump :(
Has anybody got any photos of one fitted where an fmic is fitted and the rad is stood up. Any photos would be greatly appricieated, but some above and below would be really helpful !
Cheers in advance,
Shaun
It\'ll fit nice in mine Shaun!
Which pump do you have large or small. I\'ve fitted the small from the bottom of the rad to the block. Tight squeeze.
Pip made the comment that it could be restrictive. He said he has seen them fitted in the heater matrix pipework.
Please let me know what you do as I\'m evaluating moving mine.
Jon
I\'ve got the 80l/min one, Its all the pipework where it wants to live. Im currently planning on putting it where the a/c pump lived and making some pipework up for it. I think the biggest headache is the rad is still sat on the sock brackets at the bottom and is extremely confined. I couldn\'t even squeeze through the anti roll bar and the rad without the front pipe on. Turned into a bit of a mare !
I can\'t see that you could fit it purely in the bottom pipe, the powersteering pipes and brake lines are completelly in the way, plus the dual oil cooler lines and i\'ve got a beefed up stay making thisgs worse !
Oh and kev i bet it would look nice in yours, you have loads more space in front of the engine than me :p
Shaun
Which set up have you gone for? Are you still using the water pump housing to mount your Alt or are you going for the two pipe mounting and Alt in the Air con pump position?
I thought there is only one EWP? i thought the other was a helper pump?
Theres a 110/l min one as well thats bigger dimensions.
I\'\'ve got some blanking plates laser cut out of 2mm aluminium from work to remove the water pump completely and i\'ll get a shorter belt and use the original adjustment on the alternator. Im going to remove the studs and fit 100mm long bolts in their place. Much bigger job than i thought it would be. Still have to wire in the controller with its temp sensor and remove the thermostat.
Will be putting my underdrive pulley set from dragon in the for sale section once done !
Shaun
yeh it gets out of hand quick, if you remember my white vert that had an EWP on, i went and put the two pipe plate on and moved the Alt to where the Air con pump should have been. they are good but i had agro with the sencers and fan switch..
I was wondering about that with me being able to get small stuff made at work but there are so many pipes that run off and the sensors i thought it was safer just to take just the pump off the front and leave the rest ! Will take some photos of progress tommorrow !
Shaun
Well after having a 5 min conversation with pip he has solved it :god I\'ve ended up pulling the bottom of my rad 2in further away from the engine and it now fits in the bottom hose (using different piping). The only real headache is the pump is 35mm dia and the radiator hoses are 38mm so im having to squeeze a 35mm silicon hose onto a 38mm diameter. Using a 38mm 90deg on other end with an adapter in the kit, but that makes it 40mm :2Rolleyes so another very tight fit.
Will take some photos of above and below when im finished. Plays stopped due to rain :Tongue1
Shaun
Exactly where mine is Shaun. I\'ve skimped on the controller and I\'ve retained the original pump. I use the first stage fan speed to switch on the pump.
If you remove the thermostat your car will take a long time to warm up. Especially if you are driving it. I don\'t know what your car is used for but if its used regularly you could be shortening its life. Mines a daily driver so I am compromised.
By the way. Some information from a fellow designer here, and also Keith Duckworth (RIP), put the plastic elbow supplied with the pump upstream of the pump and it will help resist cavitation. It breaks up the spiral flow of bubbles that can propagate and choke the pump.
Jon
Jon
The controller comes with its own temp sensor and alters the speed of the flow to try and maintain a constant temp. Would have thought this would be much better for the car. At the min over winter the thermstat hardly opens and that would be a worrying thing too ! At the minute the temps on water are not very good either 90-100! Hoping to get it to sit at a constant 75-80 degs all year round.
I\'ve got the elbow on the intake and the straight on the outlet. Its sat very low so hopefully it shouldn\'t be a major problem with cavitation. I hope thats the way you mean :p
At the minute the car is only used at weekends and trackdays / drag racing so it usually doenst do many short trips ! I\'m trying to prep it for a GT35r Turbo and make it as stable as possible.
Cheers for the info :Thumbs-up
Shaun
Can i leave the thermostat in and set the controller to 5 degs over the thermostat opening to get it to warm up quicker ???
Shaun
After some serious faffing about i ended up pulling the rad out another inch and got the pump fitting snuggly. Got some photos for anybody that doses the same job and struugles (like most jobs i do)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0055.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0058.jpg)
Shaun
Still think it would fit better in mine Shaun! Let us know how you go with the water temps if any different.
Kevin
ok, hopefully it should help keep it more constant. Some naff stuff with the controller and i still need to remove mechanical pump and finish off wiring !
Shaun
What temps where you running? Didn\'t think you had a prob with your set up and don\'t forget lower isn\'t always better. The engines designed to run at a certain temp thats why there\'s a thermostat in there to get the temps up ASAP.
Kevin
I was running in the 90\'s on the hot days. It was more a case of going towards going for a single turbo and trying to make it so i don\'t get as much heatsoak next time i go drag racing to try and help reduce air temps too.
I think i\'ll leave the thermostat in for the min and set the controller to 5deg more !
Shaun
Well I\'ve finally finished installing the system and its been alot bigger job than i thought originally.
The controller is a poor design in my mind for what you pay. There isn\'t any diagnostics to show everything is wired up correctly, no led\'s to show correct power, nothing to show if the sensor is working properly. Theres nothing to show that the pump is running and what speed it is running. I had to wire up a volt meter just to check that it was even remotely working.
I had to wire in a resister into the sensor cable to get the temps down when a plug option would have been more professional.
At the minute the controller is set to around 85degs, and seems to be doing its just quite nicely. I will need to uprate my rad to get it to work better but i think i knew this.
I\'ve removed the water pump and thermostat completely and it takes about twice as long for the system to warm up properly which isn\'t too bad. The pump runs at 0.5volt initially to help speed up the warming process.
I struggled alot finding a belt to fit my alternator, i needed a 5pk750 (5 v grooves and 750 circumerence) but could only find a 4pk747 which is a bugger to get on. Im running with the original Pulley to get more power from the alternator.
Picture of engine bay :
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0059.jpg)
Shaun
Jus to add to the thread in case im the only person running on the contoller. Had a conversation with pip about my sump plug and he mentioned some info I had missed completely :eek: I had to butcher my thermostat and cover over the hole behind it that is covered up when the thermostat opens. Ive done it slightly different to how pip said because i don\'t have any taps yet. I cut the thermostat so that the bottom carrier was intact to hold a spacered bolt with a large washer on the end. It was set so that the rubber of the thermostat protuded about 2mm when in place. When i tightened the cover it should push the washer over the hole and seal the hole up !
Just incase anybody else uses the controller too, this needs to be done to squeeze coolant through to the back rotor, so very important !
Car feels strong for sure, but im not sure if the twin power ignition amp has made a big difference too ! Temps arn\'t too bad but i will still need a larger rad in the next couple of months !
Shaun
how much all in does a setup like this cost then ? (roughly) The standard water pumps are monsterous great things, must shed a few lbs by ditching it?
I would say it makes the car heavier, but only by a couple of kg. I\'ve only removed the actual pump on the front of the assembly. However you could remove the whole thing and have a seperate swirl tank filler !
All in all it works out about 250 quid for the Pump, the controller and the samco hoses to connect it up. The pump on its own which is a possible setup without the controller is 145ish and is usually what most people do.
I think its more the power taken back by not having the pump running off the engine, seems to rev more freely too !
Shaun
what does the controler do ? can you run them with an inline thermostat ?
The controller basically controls the rate of the pump to try and hold a preset temp. Im not sure if you can run them with an inline thermostat, you can have the pump setup as a booster so it only comes on with the fans to help reduce overheating !
Shaun