Hi all
Can anyone please advise?
I am going to be fitting a HKS down pipe shortly, I think my car did not have a pre cat as its and Japanese import FD 92 type X.
The car has a straight through pipe replacing the cat which was fitted by WGT and it already had a super dragger back box fitted.
I wanted to know if any new gaskets are required for the down pipe and if so which end? Before I start the job? or is it a case of seeing what the old gaskets are like before coughing up for new ones?
And also has anyone used any heat wrap and does this have any real benefit and is any brand better than any other or shall I just buy from fleebay?
All advise welcome as usual and thanks in advance
Cheers
It depends on the condition of the old ones.
The one from the exhaust manifold to pipe is metal, so normally not a problem.
The other end at a guess will be for a 2.5 inch system, so might need a new one there.
Fish
Hey Ed
Ok, 1.. Gaskets are not necessary, just use some good Exhaust paste.
2. Becarefull of the nuts/bolts getting stripped or rounded as you are working in a tight area and the Downpipe -Turbo bolts are normally quite burnt and tight.
3. Yes, use exhaust wrap, e-bay has both \'cheap and quality\' types, get the original \'Termo wrap\' by \'COOL IT\'.. Think I bought from this chap \'here\'. (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Exhaust-Wrap-1-x-50_W0QQitemZ8074032006QQcategoryZ36680QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)
4. If it\'s a second hand/used Downpipe you are putting on, make sure the faces are \'True/Flat\' as it will leak like a muther!
If they are not Flat, get it re surfaced like this one in my Pics..
Note it\'s also \'Termo wrapped\' in the expensive Graphite Wrap.. :)
Hope this helps..
Very informative Trex/Fish thanks a lot for your advise that helps a lot
You have answered everything and more for me, I owe you both a beer (if you drink that is)
I am not looking forward to the job, I have read up about the removal and it sounds like fun :) but I like a chalenge
Thanks again
i had the lads at magnaflow try to fit mine but the studs and nuts didnt want to give in the end they didnt want to shere th studs coz thats an engine out job make sure you sock the nuts in w.d.40 befor atempting removel also put the car on axle stands if you got any it makes it easier to get at the bottom nuts good luck
You manage to sort this yet mate?
Tiz a pain in the ass cause when they want to go they will go :( (give me good news! :))
Hi mate not started it yet, syking my self up for this one:)
When I do I will let you know how hard it was.
CHeers
If you do it first time, I would recommend you, to bring your car to workshop where this mod was done before. For the first time it is a very tricky job, even you have to loosen all the nuts without making them round, or braking any bolts. There is the upper nut on the left side, which is tricky all the way as you have to get there (best tool is the 3/4 ratchet with long 14mm) and loose it straight not in any angle.
if you round or brake something ==> turbopack removal more sh**y job, more worse if you have never done this before.
Steering shaft is the next point to care, mark the shaft before removing on the conectors to get you stearing wheel straight again......
Heat shields are the next point to care, as the removal of them will require some force....
Save trouble and get this done by a workshop to be on the safe side.
just my 2 pents...
REgards
Iwan
I\'m considering doing this myself (this weekend!) as well. Although, my exhaust is standard so it involves replacing the whole thing.
How easy/hard is it to get to the studs at the top of the downpipe, and what other things will I have to remove to get at them?
Also, I notice on the service manuals that there is a pipe (secondary air pipe) that feeds into the cat. Obviously when the cat is no longer there this pipe wont be needed anymore. Do you need to remove it completely or do you just hide it away somewhere?
Any thoughts/hints/tips would be appreciated.
Cheers, Darran.
PS - I don\'t suppose anyone\'s written a guide on how to do this have they? :Typing
The studs on the top of the downpipe can be a pain in the bottom. :(
Soak them well with WD40 and use a deep socket on them.
The second pipe is from the air pump, which you could also remove as you will no longer have a cat for it to blow air thru.
Fish
Aye, they are a right pain!
Also with the downpipe you are fitting, make sure you can get a socket on all 4 bolts on the turbo side - mine would accept the nut but didnt have enough room to put a socket over it cause it fouled the rest of the pipe - and no chance of getting a spanner to it! :Giggle
I removed, most of the intake and the middle part of the steering column.
Way i did it:-
Airbox
Primary And Secondary Turbo Pipes
CRV & ABV
Airpump
\'Y\'pipe (2 rear nuts have to come off from underneath with some spanner / socket trickery) (also loosening the clutch pedal from inside cab can help (thanks WGT)).
Under Gearbox Shield (for access to down pipe / midpipe bolts)
Steering linkage (this is absolutely essential IMO. Can be made easier by completely removing the lower bolt (shaft has a lug that sits in the bolt). Leave the upper bolt in place. Remove all 4 bolts on steering column under dash and pull on steering wheel..)
Down pipe itself (soak nuts well with WD40 as early on as you can)
Took me 5 hours, would have taken 2 if i\'d taken the steering linkage out 1st...
Cheers Jon
the front gasket if you get in trouble is one here if you need to replace
http://www.rotaryart.uk.com/acatalog/New_3rd_gen_engine_perf_tuning.html