someone told me at rotorstock (Trex i think) that i should not use synthetic engine oil at all. i believe that rotechnics do use a synthetic. i need an oil change etc, can anyone tell me what to use, and where i can get it and if possible, price? also what oil filter etc
cheers :cool
sam
The great oil debate will go on for ever, I only use and sell fully syn, it burns cleaner, and looks after seals. Rotechniks, I think sell semi syn oil. (shell helix)
Im 20 mins away and have oil and ADL filters or K&N filters in stock.
I use mineral with the OMP and synthetic when I run premix. As far as I can recall the Mazda manual advises against synthetic with a stock setup - ie with a oil metering pump. Everone has their own ideas on the subject though. :)
Its never going to be that easy, every one has there fav oils and ways of doing things.
I cant see why having a oil pump will make the difference, all you\'ve done is remove it and yet changed the oil? Oil should be oil regards less if going through an oil metering pump. Mazda manual is 15 years old, oil and technology has moved on.
But I guess you have to use what you feel happy with.
Have you seen this thread, interesting. Rob has just stripped his engine down after going pop and its seriously coked up with few miles on the engine, and I believe on mineral oil.
http://fduk.org/forum/showthread.php?p=36497#post36497
Hi Gary. Was thinking of doing an oil change myslef this weekend instead of paying someone over the top to do it. Have got the right oil (recommended by oilman aka Opie oils) and filter.
Do you/can you do an engine flush on these cars like a normal piston engine? or is it to harsh to all the internal seals??
Adam :cheers
P.S. Sorry for the Hijack Sam
Quote from: rotaryart.uk.comI cant see why having a oil pump will make the difference, all you\'ve done is remove it and yet changed the oil? Oil should be oil regards less if going through an oil metering pump.
If you disable the oil pump you are no longer burning sump oil. You can then use a quality 2 stroke oil (which is designed to burn clean) in your fuel and maintain a steady ratio throughout the rev range and no more carboned up rotors. :)
As Mullins says - no OMP means that the oil in the sump is only for lubrication and the 2 stroke in the premix gets burned in the combustion phase of the rotation.
Just have to remember to always put your 2 stroke in at every fill-up!
Quote from: Ada7Hi Gary. Was thinking of doing an oil change myslef this weekend instead of paying someone over the top to do it. Have got the right oil (recommended by oilman aka Opie oils) and filter.
Do you/can you do an engine flush on these cars like a normal piston engine? or is it to harsh to all the internal seals??
Adam :cheers
P.S. Sorry for the Hijack Sam
I would not recommend using a flush, as the detergents may affect your oil, unless you want to flush it and then use a £5 bottle cheap mineral oil to run for say 100 miles then drain and refill with better oil. Royal Purple do have a machine that will totally replace all your oil, but not seen it yet, so cant comment on it.
Quote from: mullinsIf you disable the oil pump you are no longer burning sump oil. You can then use a quality 2 stroke oil (which is designed to burn clean) in your fuel and maintain a steady ratio throughout the rev range and no more carboned up rotors. :)
Hi :WaveBye
I understand that bit, but dont understand that with a oil pump you use a lesser quality oil? Surely if Fully Syn is what you use with pump, because its better, why not use best oil with pump, its still burns clean, and must be better for car than mineral?
It\'s to do with the chemical composition of the synthetic oils, Oilman has written a huge post about it somewhere. If you have a good synthetic with the right combination of esters and polyethanols (or something like that I have forgotten all my organic chemistry) then a synthetic is the best ol to use, however a number of synthetics have a balance which can shrink or expand the oil seals and that is why synthetics are advised against. Mineral oil doesn\'t have this effect on the seals, but however may not burn quite a cleanly as a synthetic. Or at least that is my understanding of it.
Quote from: rotaryart.uk.comHi :WaveBye
I understand that bit, but dont understand that with a oil pump you use a lesser quality oil? Surely if Fully Syn is what you use with pump, because its better, why not use best oil with pump, its still burns clean, and must be better for car than mineral?
I\'ve always just used the theory that using an oil \'designed\' to burn clean, rather than one designed to withstand extreme temparures makes more sense. On saying that everyone seems to have their own theories on what is best. I know some of the guys in Oz run no oil injection what-so-ever which in my opinion is bad news but hey seals are better than they used to be and they\'re the ones running 8\'s so who am I to argue! :Giggle
Quote from: rotaryart.uk.comI would not recommend using a flush, as the detergents may affect your oil, unless you want to flush it and then use a £5 bottle cheap mineral oil to run for say 100 miles then drain and refill with better oil. Royal Purple do have a machine that will totally replace all your oil, but not seen it yet, so cant comment on it.
Cheers for that Gary
Adam
i was going to change mine as well, i just bought a fram oil filter from the usa while i was there, maybe a semi synthetic (shell helix) would be my best bet re the mineral/no mineral argument fully synth recommend/not recommended?
I use Semi Synth oil
Advised by my machanic guy who been with roatarys for 20 + years.
BUt as everyone already said .. everyones different with different set ups.