i want to make a few engine mods to look after my engine but i dont want to brake the bank.
im thinking, intercooler, induction and maybe an ecu upgrade. any ideas?
Quote from: DC-TYPERi want to make a few engine mods to look after my engine but i dont want to brake the bank.
im thinking, intercooler, induction and maybe an ecu upgrade. any ideas?
Don\'t go for those lampshade/mushroom cone filter things - they suck hot air from the engine bay. The stock airbox is a cold air feed, you can get a K&N filter for that to upgrade it.
Either that or go for a replacement cold air feed, but these are expensive. Bigger intercooler will defo be good for the engine, again due to cooler AIT.
Anf of couse then you have the mandatory apexi PFC...
Ta, Paul.
what sort of price for an intercooler? can i fit it myself?
with the standard airbox. it has a bov. i want a decent one on there, is it possible withe the standard box?
is an ecu neccesary for an intercooler?
Are you still running your air-pump? if not then that can be removed and blanking kit fitted then you can change your water and alternator pulley set up and belt, exhaust downpipe upgrade for better exhaust flow ( as well as the other things you have stated ). Basic safe way is to take advice from your local tuner on the stages to do it. But the ECU--Apexi is a the one to upgrade too, as many maps are available ( eg at RE:WORK as they have the Rolling Road there and the maps are saved in the PC )
Quote from: WarthogAre you still running your air-pump? if not then that can be removed and blanking kit fitted then you can change your water and alternator pulley set up and belt
what does this achieve?
my car is standard except exhaust and suspension.
hi mate i will shortly have a uprated stock mount intercooler for sale, its a direct replacement fit with better flow and colling than the stock item. Always a nice mod adds a few hoses when mapped
and im just down the road in Bexhill!!!
EMAIL ME DETAILS DAVID.CHARLEY@NTLWORLD.COM (DAVID.CHARLEY@NTLWORLD.COM)
Quote from: vxerDon\'t go for those lampshade/mushroom cone filter things - they suck hot air from the engine bay.
Amen to that, if you get some cone filters just get some decent shielding/cold air feed.
anyhow back on topic, the first mod I would always do to an RX7 is get an apexi ECU and a map. I\'d do nowt before that.
Quote from: DC-TYPERwhat sort of price for an intercooler? can i fit it myself?
with the standard airbox. it has a bov. i want a decent one on there, is it possible withe the standard box?
is an ecu neccesary for an intercooler?
Not sure about fitting an uprated intercooler yourself.
However, you already have two BOVs on the FD as stock - are you just after the swwwwsssht noise? If so, you can just unplug the BOV from the airbox and let it vent to atmosphere - not sure if a tiny little filter on the end of the BOV pipe is neccessary...
Ta, Paul.
Quote from: WarthogAre you still running your air-pump? if not then that can be removed and blanking kit fitted then you can change your water and
Does that actually make any difference? Doesn\'t the airpump have a clutch on it so it doesn\'t use any HP when not in use?
Ta, Paul.
Quote from: vxerNot sure about fitting an uprated intercooler yourself.
However, you already have two BOVs on the FD as stock - are you just after the swwwwsssht noise? If so, you can just unplug the BOV from the airbox and let it vent to atmosphere - not sure if a tiny little filter on the end of the BOV pipe is neccessary...
Ta, Paul.
i done this for a while but its a constant noise when you get going.
Route i\'d go mate is PFC first and formost, then look at adding the extra\'s around it, but get the PFC tuned as soon as poss. I picked up my PFC from Japan for £414 and managed to avoid import duty\'s.
Once you\'ve had the intial map done on the PFC you can then get the map upgraded when you start adding things like IC\'s, or if you got the cash do it all in one go.
Stu
im not really looking for power, just reliabilty. surely an intercooler will be ok on a standard ecu? im thinking of the upgrade from rotechnics (courtesy of nick).
its not massive and is a straight swap
Quote from: DC-TYPERim not really looking for power, just reliabilty. surely an intercooler will be ok on a standard ecu? im thinking of the upgrade from rotechnics (courtesy of nick).
its not massive and is a straight swap
Thing is with an intercooler running your air will be much denser/cooler (if its a decent one) which could lead to running lean if you don\'t have an ECU to up the fuel as well...
Ta, Paul.
Hi Mr DC-TYPER,
Real cheap cheap things you can do are, fit a short fan belt and remove the air pump by putting a bung up the rubber pipe that goes in the back of the air pump ( this saves the cost of the blanking plates and stripping the top manifold off)
As has already been said, you can pull of a blow off valve pipe where it goes into the back of the stock air box for some "whoooosh" if you want it.
Fit a K+N AIR filter as this is cheaper than an aftermarket filter kit and also is probably more effective as you don\'t draw in cold air.
As for other mods without an upgraded or replacement ECU , you can do the above plus remove the cat for a replacement plain pipe and fit an aftermarket cat back silencer system but that really is it on a stock ECU.
As for the intercooler, Rotechnicks used to do a trick on their cars that had their upgraded intercooler fitted with stock ECU by fitting a stronger spring on the actuator which apparently stopped fuel cut but with what we all know now this is probably unwise ( sorry Nick)
If I was you do the real cheap stuff at the top then I would save yer penny\'s and buy an Apexi PFC then an intecooler which will probably be avaliable from Nick by then
Hope this helps
Quote from: DC-TYPERi done this for a while but its a constant noise when you get going.
Thats odd - shouldn\'t it only be a noise when it dumps boost on a gear change?
Can you elaborate?
Ta, Paul.
Quote from: vxerThats odd - shouldn\'t it only be a noise when it dumps boost on a gear change?
Can you elaborate?
Ta, Paul.
It probley the Charge relief valve making the noise (fit\'s on to the rear section of the Y pipe, dump valve is fitted on the Y pipe just below where it joins the IC elbow), as mine doe\'s this when i\'m driving normal.
With regards to the uprated IC, as vixer says you have to be carefull with your mixture\'s, last thing you want to do is run lean! and pop your engine. I\'d still say PFC then work on from that (I promise i don\'t work for Apexi! haha)
Cheers Stu
Quote from: vxerThats odd - shouldn\'t it only be a noise when it dumps boost on a gear change?
Can you elaborate?
Ta, Paul.
your right, it does. but when i get to a constant speed on the mway, you can hear air rushing through. it does dump when you take your foot off though!
Quote from: Stu.WilsonIt probley the Charge relief valve making the noise (fit\'s on to the rear section of the Y pipe, dump valve is fitted on the Y pipe just below where it joins the IC elbow), as mine doe\'s this when i\'m driving normal.
Ah, now i\'m slightly more confused! I always thought the two dump valves (one for each turbo) were just before the airbox t\'ed into two of the smaller pipes? :confused:
Cheers, Paul.
Quote from: vxerAh, now i\'m slightly more confused! I always thought the two dump valves (one for each turbo) were just before the airbox t\'ed into two of the smaller pipes? :confused:
Cheers, Paul.
Sorry matey, on the Y pipe you have two valves one is the dump valve and the other is the Charge relief valve. We all now what the dump valve doe\'s, but the charge relief valve, basicaly allows the 2nd tub to spool up before it cuts in. So when your driving along between 3500-500rpm you will hear the charge relief letting the pressure out from the 2nd tub and as soon as it kicks in you should not here it no more. (i\'m pretty sure i\'m corrrect in what i\'m saying. If not i\'m sure i\'l get corrected soon, LOL) You can see the charge relief valve on the pic below, note though where the DV is usualy placed it is capped off with the black cap next to the Y in the word \'Y-Pipe\'.
DC-Typer = If you still hear the whoosing noise on WOT then you probley have boost leak somewhere, but the noise should def disappear after the 2nd tub kicks in.
Cheers Stu
Quote from: Stu.WilsonSorry matey, on the Y pipe you have two valves one is the dump valve and the other is the Charge relief valve. We all now what the dump valve doe\'s, but the charge relief valve, basicaly allows the 2nd tub to spool up before it cuts in. So when your driving along between 3500-500rpm you will hear the charge relief letting the pressure out from the 2nd tub and as soon as it kicks in you should not here it no more. (i\'m pretty sure i\'m corrrect in what i\'m saying. If not i\'m sure i\'l get corrected soon, LOL) You can see the charge relief valve on the pic below, note though where the DV is usualy placed it is capped off with the black cap next to the Y in the word \'Y-Pipe\'.
Hmmm, I think my confusion stems from the fact that i have a standard intake system.
In the following picture, i\'ve circled what i thought were the BOVs - are they? :)
(http://www.pfirth.co.uk/rx/bovs.jpg)
Ta, Paul.
The rear one is the charge relief and the front is the BOV. I think there is a few other posts on here about the charge relief valve. But it is the rear one that will be causing the hissing sound for DC-Typer if he has it disconnected from the Inducttion kit. On yours you won\'t hear it at all as it\'s plumbed into the standard box.
Stu
Quote from: Stu.WilsonThe rear one is the charge relief and the front is the BOV. I think there is a few other posts on here about the charge relief valve. But it is the rear one that will be causing the hissing sound for DC-Typer if he has it disconnected from the Inducttion kit. On yours you won\'t hear it at all as it\'s plumbed into the standard box.
Stu
Rightyo!
And the charge relief valve allows boost to be redirected, not exhaust gas?
I thought the charge relief was for allowing the exhaust gas to bypass the first turbo, so that above 4000ish, the first turbo doesn\'t spin (since the second has kicked in) thereby saving the first turbo from destruction. Or is that the job of some other device? :)
Sorry for all the questions!
Cheers, Paul.
Quote from: vxerRightyo!
And the charge relief valve allows boost to be redirected, not exhaust gas?
I thought the charge relief was for allowing the exhaust gas to bypass the first turbo, so that above 4000ish, the first turbo doesn\'t spin (since the second has kicked in) thereby saving the first turbo from destruction. Or is that the job of some other device? :)
Sorry for all the questions!
Cheers, Paul.
The charge relief valve opens around 4kish and allows the 2nd tub to spin up and therfore stopping any flat spots occuring when the door opens in the y pipe from the 2nd tub.
Stu
P.S not a problem with all the Q\'s, i guess we are sort of high jacking his thread too! haha.
Quote from: Stu.WilsonThe charge relief valve opens around 4kish and allows the 2nd tub to spin up and therfore stopping any flat spots occuring when the door opens in the y pipe from the 2nd tub.
Ahhh, ok....
QuoteP.S not a problem with all the Q\'s, i guess we are sort of high jacking his thread too! haha.
:)
Cheers, Paul.
ive done this and your right, it does stop, thanks guys. the woosh isnt the right sound im looking for so i put it back on
i tell you what i do like, the dump valve sound off rally cars. anybody lnow where i can get that from? will i need ecu upgrade for that?
Quote from: DC-TYPERive done this and your right, it does stop, thanks guys. the woosh isnt the right sound im looking for so i put it back on
i tell you what i do like, the dump valve sound off rally cars. anybody lnow where i can get that from? will i need ecu upgrade for that?
Just to clarify so we\'re absolutely sure - originally you had disconnected the back on (in my pic)?
Cheers, Paul.
(http://www.pfirth.co.uk/rx/bovs.jpg)
I Diconnected The Lower One From The Air Box
Quote from: DC-TYPERI Diconnected The Lower One From The Air Box
Thats odd, because that is the correct one. It was mentioned that maybe there is a screw on the back of this which adjusts the noise?
If i understand things correctly, it should only vent on a gear change and not continually hiss when at high speed - this suggests to me that the valve isn\'t tight enough. Does this seem reasonable to anyone else?
Cheers, Paul.
Right, thought i\'d try this out myself and see what happened:
I get exactly the same result as DC-TYPER - sounds like a balloon deflating at part throttle and it does do the dump hiss when you change gear, but the part throttle hiss sounds too gay.
Here is my revised opinion on whats happening: The BOV is dumping unwanted boost at part throttle. Its not sucking, its blowing. And this leads me to an interesting theory:
If you fit a different aftermarket BOV which doesn\'t vent at part throttle, the car will feel more peeky and probably be less drivable around town etc, but will feel more responsive.
As an asside, a rubber cork from a bottle of wine plugs the hole in the airbox where the BOV used to be just fine! :D
Cheers, Paul.
edit: i saw no screw anywhere on the BOV for adjustment, however - maybe i got the wrong idea from a post... :confused:
Hi Guys, no screws on the standard DV, just a sealed unit. When i was running my standard dump valve it did hiss, this is an annoying sound. Have since replaced with Blitz BOV and sound now stopped, very nice whoosh sound now(not chav\'e at all, thank god!).
It is more noticable on the throttle with Blitz one fitted, but still a very comforatble drive, as i use mine as day to day car. You can also pick a 2nd hand BOV up for around £90, give it a clean and hey presto! nice sound and looks good too. you don\'t have to change any settings either.
Cheers Stu
is it a striaght swap fom old bov to an aftermarket one?
dont bother getting a pfc. Get an alu radiator, alu ast, viton hoses for the turbo system and silicone water hoses all round. If it is a uk spec car, get a pre cat replacement pipe. A pfc is not going to make your car more reliable unless you want more power, and you have already said you want reliability over power right??
Quote from: DC-TYPERis it a striaght swap fom old bov to an aftermarket one?
Yep straight swap.
s