As most of you know my car didnt make RS3.
Currently it starts but wont go above 3000rpm the boost doesnt build past 0 bar this it usually accompied by v loud backfire when letting off. I\'ve been hearing a whirring noise from under the plenum which i hadnt noticed before. All this has happened since my new screen was fitted, is there any pipes under the scuttle panel below the windscreen?. Had a look today & couldnt see any pipes off, althou the one to the map sensor was split so i replaced this but the problem is still there. Any ideas??
As far as Im aware there is only the wiper linkage under there
Have you or has someone maybe knocked off the map sensor pipe. Because thats what it sounds like. HTH.
thought thats all it would be
Well that was suggested at RS, I checked that when I came home & one was split where it slides onto the senor, so I replaced it, but the problem is still there.
Checked all hoses vac & turbo hoses today, couldnt find any splits or hoses off. So I\'m going to try changing the map sensor next. Has anyone got a spare one i can borrow to try?
what ecu do you have?, that sounds just like limp mode on the stock ecu. If so, try reseting it by disconnecting the battery for a while and put your foot on the brake with the ignition on for 30 seconds or so.
Sory if this has already been mentioned.
its a PFC. I\'ve even tried refitting the original ECU to see if the PFC was at fault. But the fault is still there.
Checked fuel pump last night & it runs as it should. Hooked the pfc back up today & took some readings from the sensor page at idle. Dont think the boost sensor is at fault now as before i was reading off manual gauge before & the reading on the commander is the same.
PIM 1.53v
VTA1 0.66v
VTA2 1.45v
WMOP 1.21v
WTRT 1.22
AIRT 2.62
Fuel 0.99 didnt change when revved
O2S 0.01 ( not connected)
NTR On
FPD On
APR On
CCN On
& when revved the FPR would come on.
Also, if the ecu notes any issues with it\'s switches or sensors, it flags them up in a black box. So you should know if you have a faulty sensor.
Just had a thought is it possible the heat sensor could cause this as mine isnt connected to anything due to a decat.
whens the change over on ethe fuel pump from low to high??
Quote from: Gerry Mwhens the change over on ethe fuel pump from low to high??
This is only performed under high load, so cannot be simulated be revving alone. Get a hair pin or something and bypass the fuel pump resistor to have constant full voltage to the fuel pump and see how you get on. Sounds like you have a loose battery connection as soon as load is increase it will back fire. Don\'t just check the leads at the battery terminal follow the leads and check the fittings.
I have moved the car but basically if you dont have the clutch on the biting point it cuts out
well thanks to brians suggestion the car now revs past 3k & the boost gauge goes past 0 bar when reving. The cables must of moved when i fitted the oem battery clamp, might explain why there wasnt one there before. But it cuts out as soon as clutch is fully engaged. Hoping its nothing to serious