Sorry for the lameness of this question but i\'m still confused hehe.
Mods at present are simply hks air induction (should be replaced with a k&n soon) and a kakimoto r exhaust.
Now I took it to get dyno tested yesterday and Thor seemed to think it was stuck at 0.5 boost. Now I know the pattern seems to be 10-8-10 but that doesn\'t mean a lot to me when I look at my boost chart.
Thoughts at Thor were something like "this car probably used to be very heavily modded but they\'ve taken the stuff out and detuned it so it produces stock break with these mods added on" as it was making around 250bhp
Can someone tell me (hopefully photoshop wise) what it\'s meant to be on the graph...or even better some advice of what I could have it up to on stock turbos (1bar+ possible?)
much thanks!
Andypandy
boost chart here (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robert.pogmore/boost.jpg)
That pattern looks kinda familiar to me.
Sometimes after periods of heavy traffic I my car won\'t boost past 0.5 bar. Turning the engine off and back on immediately seems to reset something and i get the normal pattern back. In my case I\'m suspecting a solenoid is getting stuck when it\'s hot and turning off and on resets it. I suppse there could be something electronic limiting boost inder heat-soak situations but I\'ve not come accross this behaviour.
Could it be that your car was heat-soaked by the time you came to doing the dyno run?
Iain
it could well be the case to be honest... I had an 87 to 87.85 heat going on at the time. They put that to
1) the goofy number plate restricting air intake
2) the hks intake - reckon they are no good plus theres no piping to it (just a little bit of stupid duct pipe which leaks most of the air into the engine
so they are gonna be my next purchases (along with a boost gauge me thinks)
whats the stock figures then when your\'s isn\'t overheating?
I\'ll ask the USA forums if they know anything about it :)
OK, they are talking about .5 Bar (circa 8 psi), so not far off what it should be.
I have found that when sitting in traffic, trying to get peak boost shortly after that doesnt happen. I think the ECU retards itself, just like the aftermarket units would. Once cooled down its fine.
This is more than likely what happened on the rollers.
The HKS air filters are not that good. They let plenty of rubbish in. Better off getting a K&N.
Where were you taking the inlet temps from?
Dan
87-88 degrees intake temp?! Thats pretty warm. The computer would be pulling every thing back at that temperature. What are coolant temps like?
Get the stock airbox back in there - and check that the stock ducting to the (presumably) stock intercooler is still in place.
As Danny says 0.5kg/cm2 (a touch over 7psi) isnt that far off stock boost...
One last thing - the final drive is noted as 3.9:1 on the graph where as (unless you have an auto diff which is 3.9 or an RZ diff which is 4.3) it should be 4.1:1. Dunno how this would effect the readings!!
As for power on 1bar; on the stock turbos with adequate fuel system and ecu most seem to make about +/-300atw...
cheers dudes,
ahh ok that doesn\'t worry me so much then if the boost is more or less what it\'s supposed to be, I thought it would be a lot higher than that, thought it would remain higher than 0.5 rather than stay at that level then drop come 2nd turbo
The ducting in my car is useless to be honest. Looks like a bit of air conditioning pipe that you\'d use in a house system and it\'s not even sealed, just runs into the top of the rad and half the air escapes...
I will be getting the K&N one, not a bad price from America tbh... just wanna shift mine, seems a pity when it\'s boxed etc :(
I\'ve scanned the temp one from the dyno too for you to have a peak at can be found here (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robert.pogmore/temp.jpg)
20b >> I have no idea of my coolant temps, all the gauges in the car were taken out I think and I know I need to get some but they are so dam expensive... so tbh I don\'t know... all I know is that the water temps never gone over half way even in traffic in the heat of summer (know that doesn\'t say a lot as that gauge is gash)
not sure what you mean by
Quotethe final drive is noted as 3.9:1 on the graph where as it should be 4.1:1
you saying something needs to be upped here (I\'m still learning forgive me).
Good stuff about the bar, I\'d like to get it to 300bhp not gonna go on a modding junkett with this thing as I know I\'ll never a)never stop and b) recoup the money... as I\'m still young .... you can imagine my wages ain\'t the best hehe... I\'d rather buy one that\'s real modded up than spend all my money on it :( But yeah I\'ll be lobbing the k&ns in which comes with new ducting and PROPER heat shielding. That and the mini number plate I\'ll be getting should cool it down hopefully :)
I\'m saying the ratio of the stock differential is 4.1:1 not 3.9:1 as they appear to have used on your graphs; I would guess this would f#ck up the readings provided, depending how a dyno computes its numbers?? Not sure how great the impact would be to the numbers - not that clever - sure some one he will tell us though. Dang, may be it doesnt have any effect! :)
ahh thats interesting, nice one didn\'t notice that!
Just written to the guy at Thor, i\'ll keep ya posted :)