:Thumbsup! HAD MY T2 FOR ABOUT 14 WEEKS NOW AND BEEN WELL PLEASED WELL UP TO ABOUT 10MINS AGO. When i was drivin back home on a slow cruise from droppin of the lady. with it bein wet out ib lit up the wheels and off i went as per normal with not a prob then as i started slowin up, shifted ito 3rd and as i touched the throttle a small pop from (the exhaust i think) then lost all power had to limp it home. oil pressure is good, temp was good it just sounded like it was missin and still revs round just not as smooth or as quick if anyone knows anything about what it could be would really help me out
PS JUST FOUND OUT IM GOING TO BE A DAD
Could be ECU or a hose off.
Check the all the air pipes and make sure one hasn\'t come off.
If a sensor failed, the ECU may have gone into \'limp\' home mode. You might want to check for any codes from it.
congrats about the DAD
sounds like you blew a hose off to be honest ?
disconnect the battery for a bit - and see if the ECU resets aswell
then let us know how you get on
Stu
funny u said that as the car has a electronic boost control that the lad before me fitted and the supply pipe has split and fixed it but no luk so if i disconect the bat if might be ok then if not check the ecu
no luk still wont start any ideas lads
Sounds like it\'s getting worse - either that or you may have flooded it now in trying to start it.
If you flood a rotary, it\'s very hard to get it started after that. However, try the following (you may want to get a set of jump leads and another car if your battery is a bit low):
Remove the EGI fuse from the long rectangular fuse box in the engine bay, remove both bottom plugs (make a note of which lead was on which).
Crank the engine over for a few tens of seconds - a whole load of petrol may spray out ;) - So don\'t smoke near the engine bay :bandit
clean up the plugs if they are fouled, and if you can find some \'cold start\' or a little petrol/oil mixture squirt a small amount into the open plug holes.
Re fit the plugs, pop the fuse back in, and then crank the engine and floor the accellerator.
This should unflood it. Again no smoking around the back :bandit :D
The hose to the boost Control? Did you fix it before or after the problem?
If this wa me i\'d do the std checks, take the Egi fuse out and the ft top plug and turn it over then replace the plug and take the rear top plug out and turn it over. Listen to the noise it makes, both rotor should sound the same with the same spacing and volume of Psshhh noises.
If thats fine i\'d have a real Good look around the engine bay for loose vac lines (make sure the vac line going to the small black box on the Drivers side inner wing is good)
If thats fine i\'d change the plugs and examine the Plug leads.
And if thats good take all the plugs off you can get at easly and check for damage then WD40 them.
well i found the split hose when i had a quick look under the bonnet after the problem ive had the plugs out and cleaned them and turned it over cos i know they are a nightmare when they flood the car seems like it wants to start and then just starts turnin over and sounds like its not gettin a spark when i was sorting the hose out i disconnected the batt for about half an hour would this be long enough to reset the ecu if it would reset it or shall i try and get it fault checked
Could it have possably overboosted?
Take the Egi fuse out and the ft top plug and turn it over then replace the plug and take the rear top plug out and turn it over. Listen to the noise it makes, both rotor should sound the same with the same spacing and volume of Psshhh noises.
Quote from: simwell i found the split hose when i had a quick look under the bonnet after the problem ive had the plugs out and cleaned them and turned it over cos i know they are a nightmare when they flood the car seems like it wants to start and then just starts turnin over and sounds like its not gettin a spark when i was sorting the hose out i disconnected the batt for about half an hour would this be long enough to reset the ecu if it would reset it or shall i try and get it fault checked
Sim,
The ECU will reset if the power is out for even a minute. It will also reset the fault codes, so if it reports any faults now, these will be new ones.
If it does not even want to fire - is there HT getting to the plugs ?
Just Comp test it. If you have a problem with the Pipe that controls the Boost and you have opened it up and felt a Pop then the first port of Call is the Apex\'s.
I don\'t want to sound Off but there is no point in spending a week trying to find a fault if its lost a Tip.
cheers will get on it and try fingers crossed
Is the earth wire connected to the bulkhead?
well took the egi fuse outand then took the rear bottom plug out and turned her over and sounded fine with afair bit of comp then did the same with the front bottom plug after refitting the first i had taken out and it sounded like a wet fart and nothing like the rear which i take it i have fu*ked the apex seals though over boosting any ideas on people to ring, thinking of taking it out and trying myself not sure as would like a warranty
Well Looking at your location Pip at WGT would be your localish Rx7 Guy.//www.wgtautodevelopments.co.uk
If you want to rebuild it yourself you have a few options.
1. Buy a second hand engine that runs and use that.
2. Use OE seals and gaskets (Talk to Tim at RXMotors) //www.rxmotors.co.uk
3. Buy a RA rebuild kit (bit cheaper option) //www.rotaryresources.com
The best Advice i could give you if your Attempting to rebuild it your self is Buy a Rebuild Video, watch it a few times and when you put it will realy help.
//www.rotaryart.uk.com/acatalog/copy_of_copy_of_DIY_RE.html
did a comp test and i very nearly ****ed myself as there was **** all compression now there is a question i have when the apex seals go what other damage do they cause as i was more a piston kind of guy till about two months ago and think im going to recon the engine planning on takin it out this weekend to get a closer look at things not sure what to expect would like a bit of a head start on things i suppose
What was the Results? Is each rotor fairly even or are the three results irratic?
there was no comp at all now this is how i tested them if i was doing it right cant se it being any diff to a piston engine i disconnected the batt took the egi fuse out as you guys said took out the top rear sparky and fitted my tester and turned her over and it hardly move as in about a nats ball sack
i did the same with the other one and it was the same so bin thinking its had it what do you think or should i try again if i was doing it wrong
To comp test a rotary is a little harder to do.
If your using a std Comp tester you will have to remove the Shnider (spelling??) Valve from the End of the Tester so the tester does\'nt retain the presure.
To cut a long story short, you conect up the tester and have a second person turn it over whilst your watching the needle bouncing between 0 and 6-7 bar if its good. Then repeat on the other Rotor.
A rotary engine is not like a Piston where it has one Compresion chamber per pot, a Rotary has Three per Rotor. So if you keep the Shnider (Spelling?) valve in you may have two low comps but your only seeing the one good.
Its a bit late and i\'m a bit too tired to go into detail but if you do a search i\'m sure you\'ll find a Thread on how to Convert the Tester and Comp test the engine.
cheers mate and thanks will try and then post tomoza