As far as I know, I\'ve got a stock suspension & shockers setup and running Eagle F1\'s. When I try to get a smart getaway the wheels dont spin smoothly but start to hop, can get quite violent and I have to back off the revs to let the wheels grip again. It only happens when I give it a real boot full like on the strip or very fast out of a junction but it kills my quarters and can be embarrassing on the road. I\'ve only got stock power, so would have thought even standard suspension setup would have coped. Anything obvious without spending meggabucks?? :confused:
I\'m no expert on this, far frmo it but I was talking to Blitzboy about this at Shakespear the other day. I think he mentioned a diff brace?
Quote from: AdriansturgessAs far as I know, I\'ve got a stock suspension & shockers setup and running Eagle F1\'s. When I try to get a smart getaway the wheels dont spin smoothly but start to hop, can get quite violent and I have to back off the revs to let the wheels grip again. It only happens when I give it a real boot full like on the strip or very fast out of a junction but it kills my quarters and can be embarrassing on the road. I\'ve only got stock power, so would have thought even standard suspension setup would have coped. Anything obvious without spending meggabucks?? :confused:
thats right M@r>, he needs a diff brace. Wheel hop should be avoided it does lots of We have them in stock Stainless Steal £100 plus VAT
Actually its M@r]{ :p B1oody symbols are a mouthful eh? ;)
And I actually got something right too :Party
Are they difficult to fit Ross?
Quote from: DRAGONthats right M@r>, he needs a diff brace. Wheel hop should be avoided it does lots of We have them in stock Stainless Steal £100 plus VAT
What\'s involved in fitting a diff brace? i.e. how many hours for a competent mechanic. Is it an easy home DIY job?
They simply bolt on.
Also get your diff mounts looked at, these cars are 10 years old and probably never checked.
Thanks for the information chaps, not as expensive as I feared then. :)
I was gonna say diff mounts too as stock cars really dont do this all the time so something must be not right. I would still get a diff brace too if you like your hard starts as I have seen too many diff\'s want to see whats on the other side of the casing!
Is changing the diff mounts a long and/or awkward job?
bumpety bump.....
Sorry mate, I have never done it myself.
Usually with bushes it helps if you have access to a hydraulic press to pop them in (thats if you can remove the section where the bush goes in.) I have never really looked at them to be honest....
just a thought - do you have round or pentagonal wheels? Round wheels should bounce less.
^^^^ Currently have pentagonal but considering going to square or even triangular as I figure I will then get less bumps per revolution.... :2Confused :guinness
It can also be that your tyres are of a \'soft compound\',designed to give less milage but good road adhesion.????????.The dealer should be able to give you the relevant information on the compounds. :Talking1
Running Eagle F1\'s.....shouldn\'t have though they should give a problem. Prior to that I was running on the ropey old jap ones it came with when I brought it and they were so old they were almost brittle....did exactly the same thing. To be honest I thought the new tyres would cure it but absolutely no difference in this respect- much better in all other respects though!
He\'s running the same tyres as mine Era so shouldn\'t have any problems from that front so long as the pressures are okay.
Kevin
As the informed have quoted old boy.DIFF BRACE is the answer.......now knowing the history of your tyres..... :Typing
Generally run 29-30 psi....Don\'t think its a tyre problem though.
A lot of people have suggested diff brace and this may well cure it but what troubles me is will this just be covering up an underlying problem....I\'m still going to check out the diff mounts - does anybody know what kind of a job changing the diff mounts will be - is it a bitch????
Any body got any advice on changing diff mounts?????? Also how easy is it to tell if they need replacing or not - Will it be pretty obvious??????????
I have noticed something similar on the FC when hoofing it away from the lights etc. I think it\'s called tramping and is very bad for the car. :(
I also run Eagle F1\'s which are a medium compound tyre and generally known to be good and grippy.
Does anyone know if a diff brace is an option for us FC boys ?
The FC is very diffrent as the diff is bolted to the body and on an FD it isnt. The FC diff has two very wide arms that attach it to the body to stop it twisting or moving too much but it might just be the fact that your rubber mounts are sloppy.
FC or FD the mounts are a bitch to change at home.......
You have to drop the whole rear subframe on an FC, not nice if your car is suffering from the rusty bolt syndrome....
i didnt remove my FD one so i cant comment but Brian has lots of experience of this.
Quote from: antnicukbut it might just be the fact that your rubber mounts are sloppy.
I do hate sloppy rubber ! ;)
In all seriousness, I am guessing you mean the 2 large round things on the end of the arms - like crabs eyes ?
Uhm.... so how much of a bitch is it to change the diff mounts on an FD? Also, If they ARE a bit sloppy is it an option to put a diff brace on and not bother changing the mounts? (Doesn\'t seem like a good idea to me on the face of it) Surely somebody has some experience of this!!!!! :)
If you want to change your diff mounts you idealy need a ramp /pit, not a big job as such if you have all the tools. If you are going to be looking at bigger power [running lots of 1/4\'s] I would look at replacing not only the diff mounts but the engine mounts for the solid ones [makes for much smoother gear changes, especialy 2nd to 3rd :Giggle ] Diff brace is a good thing as well.
bumperty....bumperty....bumperty....bumperty....bump ;)
This may sound a dumb question but what exactly is wheel hop?
From what i\'ve read it sounds like its just the Diff twisting under WOT. Is it that simple? also is this the main cause of people distroying there diff at the Strip?
Don\'t know exactly what causes it but its a bit like having your own private kangaroo in the boot and at its worst it feels like the back axle is going to let go. First time it happened I thought I\'d had a rear tyre blowout. It really is ferrocious and worries the hell out of you.
Yeh :)
I have been in a car when it was being WOT\'d away from some lights, I honistly thought it had broken somthing, It made an ungodly bang from the Back, enough for us to Pull over to check.
What\'s the beam for that connects the diff to the engine (runs alongside the prop shaft), isn\'t this a form of diff brace?
My FD does this to. It\'s a real pain in the arse and I would like to get it sorted out. Car is going in for a service soon, so will get the garage to have a look at it.
My car is suffering from worn bushes, which I was hoping would solve this after I changed them. But from what I\'ve read I guess it\'s not going to do the trick.
Diff brace will reduce it a lot, very easy to fit ( if I can do it anyone can :) ) The one ive got is a \'T\' shaped one, really tightens up the back end.
I put one on and fast pull aways are a lot smoother now, not that ive done one lately, poor baby is off the road this year :(
Hi mate what sort of condition is your stock suspension in? If your dampers are on the way out that certainly wont be helping matters...
Not looked at the bushes on the FD as i\'ve only had it a few weeks but if its like most other cars it\'ll be a pain in the arse. Might be best giving one of the specialists a call...
I managed to get rid of the wheel hop on my bug with solid mounts and a decent set of coilovers which allowed me to correctly dial in the damping... Now it bites so hard i can pop the front wheels off the ground, in the dry at least, in the wet i get as much smooth wheelspin as i like :D
I say check out the bushes and fit a diff brace anyway, until then dont pull off so hard ;)
Diff barce is a peice of cake to fit , just un bolt 4 bolts put diff bace on and put bolts back on
Wheel hop is very common on FDs and it can destroy your diff as I found out at last years rotorstock , not sure how to change the diff mounts , I\'ve been looking at doing this for a while , still trying to decide on which mounts to get , solid metal type or solid rubbery type , heard the metal type can transmit a lot of vibration to the body
Depends what you want from your car mate, my solid mounts in the bug transmit SO much noise and vibration its unreal... I\'d say stay clear from the solids unless you\'re really planning on spanking it from standstill... I reckon even new stock style mounts will fine for most cases if you also fit the brace...
Best case scenario is to avoid popping the clutch from standstill... Or at the very least try to load it up as much as possible with the handbrake on. Obviously this only applies to traffic light GP etc ;) as far as normal hard driving goes I always try to ease the power on a little.
I\'ve snapped driveshafts and eaten diffs in the past, especially when running soft tyres on a prepped sticky track but thankfully replacement performance parts for the aircoooled VWs aren\'t nearly as expensive as they are for the FD...
Solid mounts are no problem, just make sure you change the engine mounts at the same time, you notice a bit of vibration 3-4k very minor though
i want to keep the car as streetable as possible but I want to throw her up the 1/4 at every chance I get without breaking something everytime
Well obviously the rex is a different kettle of fish to the bug, although i do drive it on the street the word streetable does not really apply.
I suppose if we\'re just talking about diff mounts there\'s not that much noise/vibration to transmit, well not as much as engine/gearbox anyway.
I take it by solid mounts we\'re all talking about the same thing? As in metal SOLID replacements for your bushes/mounts and not harder compound poly bushes?
I\'ll be looking at tightening up the rear end of the RX soon and if you reckon solid diff mounts aren\'t that bad i may well go down that route, with the brace as well...
From my experiance it can be traced back to the engine mounts as well as diff mounts. The mounts get lose and this causes the engine to rock side to side causing torque fluctuations that travel back to the wheels and cause the hop.
I\'m trying to make an engine damper to help damp out the problem.
I believe I need new engine mounts. Standard ones I think.
Does anyone have a cost for these?
Not sure of price but I beleive Pip at WGT has had some uprated engine mounts made , I\'m going to enquire about them when I go over next , he\'s also having some diff mounts done
Quote from: John YorkeSolid mounts are no problem, just make sure you change the engine mounts at the same time, you notice a bit of vibration 3-4k very minor though
As stated!