Anyone know wer i can get some interior pannels lightly sandblasted?.Around the leeds area
The primer i was using was the wrong type :oops: so i\'ve started to wet and dry it to get rid of the primer and start again but its a pain in the ass(taken 1 1/2 hours to do one panel) i don\'t fancy doing all the overs esp the pannel where the heater dials are and speedo
Will most respray companys do this as if so i might get them to respray the pannels too.
Saves me more time so i can do other parts on the Rx
:D
Think you\'ll find a sand blast is too abrasive might be better looking in the yellow pagers for bead blasters.
Kevin
You could always use paint stripper
Be very careful of using stripper on plactic interior panels, use on a test section first.
Bead blaster would be much gentler but dont think I would trust my panels on it, again blast a test piece.
i wouldnt sand blast bead blast or paint strip plastic ever.
Go to halfrauds, they do some pretty good abrasive sponges. Nowt wrong with using a coarse grit to get rid of the primer and then reducing grits as you go. Use the sponge method - thats what i did with mine.
I think you will find that Nitromors used to do two types of stripper with one being plastic friendly
i\'m of to halfords in the morning and looking for some paint stripper that plastic friendly if i can\'t find owt i\'ll wet and dry with a low grade and to get to some of the holes i\'ll use normal paintstripper then sand with a finer grade.
so much for me originally taking a day maybe 2 to finish and re install the dash lol
Cheers for the info people.
NO!!!!!!!!!!!! There is no easy way to remove it once you have put the wrong one on, trying to Rush it or cut corners will result in buying new Pannels. A good example is Thinners, It will bring your paint off no probelm but it will also melt your plastic.
The Only thing you can do to speed it up is use Corser Paper, But i\'d still only use wet or dry 400\'s any thing more will cause the Plasitic to go fury or loose its shape.
For future refrence,(from the Top) Don\'t get the plastic primer (coloured one from Halfords) they are not as good as the one that looks clear and thin (the best stuff it called Upol Plastex, get a tin of no2,no3 and your Colour they sell it at most Auto paint shops), Get a red scotch pad (you can use a fine scouring pad) and with lots of Soppy water wash them very well (to get any dash cleaner off, Paint hates Sylicone), Dry well and blow with an Air line if you have one handy ;) if not Put in the sun for a few minutes or next to a rad (to get any mosture off), Now apply two coats of the Plastic primer (plastex No2) this is a bit odd to use it is very thin and is clear so don\'t put it on too heavy (leave for 5 minutes between coats) once you are happy the hole item is covered (edges too) leave it 10 minutes and apply two coats of the No3 grey High build Primer (same story 5 mins between coats 10 to dry) the first coats just nib off with 800\'s wet and dry, Make sure its Bone dry and Apply two more and this time flat quite well with 800\'s if you still have the Texture showing aply two more etc untill its gone, if you watch flatting the edges to much as it will go through to plastic and will automaticly mean you\'ll have to recoat it (a tip at this point is to give the Primer a light dust coat of a Dark Colour like satin black before flatting to highlight any defects). Now after all this Messing about if you are happy with the texture and the pannel is all Grey you can Apply your Colour, depending on what colour etc if its a Solid (not metalic colour) you can apply it in the same manner as the No3 Primmer Apply two nice coats if your not happy flat it and appy two more, Metalics are a little more of a pain becouse once you have Applyed your Colour as above you have to Apply another Coat of laqure to seal it and keep the metalic bright.
TIPS!!!
The BIG!! thing to remember is this stuff does Not like to be Rushed, if you have a defect (Nib or hair) don\'t try and pick it out just dry it, Flat it and give it another coat.
Make sure its clean and Dry every coat you apply :)
With the 800\'s you should have a Bucket of warm water with washing up liquid in and have a roll of absorbant towl handy, To keep it clean dry as you go so the Flatting water does not dry onto the pannel.
when you have finished a coat turn the can over and Spray it until no paint is coming out (clears the nozzle for next time)
And the best Tip i can give you is use Quality Primer etc and it will stick like S**t to a banket :)
As i\'m a Pro painter and have been for Too long PM me if i can be of any help.
Great advice chris... should be a sticky that..lots of info..
I stil have them panel steve :D
Oh and dont even think about going to halfrauds :; or ull get a :spank :rolleyes:
Cheers
Gord
Also dont do as i did and rush to put the pannels back before the laqure has had a couple of days to dry.I did and marked it so it will have to be done again it was dry but had not hardend :reallymad
Yeh you do tend to find if you rush it the laqure takes rather a long time to go off, its becouse or the Solvent thats trapped Under the clear.
Time is good.... But it can be sped up by placing the Painted parts in a warm dry place but with good air circulation (you get something called Solvent soak if you not careful and that will also cause slow drying time) that\'s why some times if you put a few painted parts in the airing cupboard for example they can still be wet along time later or even worse Solvent Pop/Go dull if there is allot of paint on.
or stick \'em in the oven.
LOL, What gas mark? ;)
Cheers for the info chris :D