When I eventually get round to getting my engine out I\'m going to start my non sequential turbo conversion , I\'ve done loads of research on different sites but I\'m left with a few questions
Firstly , vac hoses , I have found 3 different vac hose diagrams and want to know which is the right/best version
Secondly , vac hose caps , where do you get them from ?? or is it better to cut the nipples off and weld up the holes ??
Thirdly , boost controller , the one I\'m after using is the turbosmart eboost2 purely because of the features , question is how do you connect it ?? all the vac diagrams show the boost controller in line fine the wastegate actuator i.e. in and out , I\'m guessing this is how you\'d connect a manual boost controller , the diagrams in the eboost instructions show differnt connections for the boost solenoid , I asume you connect it as a single turbo as there will be only 1 wastgate , you can download the instuctions here (http://www.turbosmart.com.au/index.php?id=42)
Think thats it for now , I\'m sure I\'ll think of more once the I start ripping the turbos apart
Ooh one last one , can anyone recommend somewhere near sheffield to that can check the turbos over , make sure they\'re in good nick and all that , I\'ve read about getting the wheels clipped , is this wotrh looking at ???
Forgot to mention , I\'m doing the full convertion not the poor mans and I\'ll be using a PFC so I wont need resistors
AET turbo\'s at Normanton is probably your best bet for getting them checked over. As regards the nipples i\'ll be inclined to leave them where they are and just put a loop of pipe nipple to nipple. Then when you fit something in the future you\'ve still got take off points.
Kevin
Probably a good idea that kev but I\'de prefer to use caps rather than looping the nipples together , think it would look alot neater , anyone any idea where i can get them from ????
Be very interested in your results, when I ran non-sequential I must say I was quite dissapointed, very little difference and it was more laggy than my single setup as it is now.
The lag is the only downside as far as I can see it , I was considering getting the the turbos clipped but this will increase the lag even more won\'t it ???
The only experience of non sequential I have is seeing Donatos car on the rollers and strip and he was getting good times and good power figures , must say though I don\'t know what the rest of his setup is like , what set up were you running at the time ???
Hopefully mine will be be a street ported motor , possibly uprated injectors and pump ( will take advise on this ) already got HKS induction and straight through decatted exhaust syatem , hopefully a dragon v mount , possibly lightened flywheel , eboost2 boost controller , water injection and the non sequential turbos
If you\'re going for the Dragon V-mount, i would recommend a bonnet with a vent in of some description, to let out the hot air come out of the intercooler - this will allow more efficient cooling for said intercooler (I have the same v-mount setup as provided by dragon) It\'s very good - nice and simple to fit!
The stealth is non-seq. It drives very well indeed and produces the goods, 325.5bhp at the hubs @1bar. However John is right, money no object you can buy a single kit that will produce more power per lb of boost with less lag, obviously this will depend on what turbo you choose. From a cost point of view I cannot fault the simplified nature of the non-seq set up and on a std seq twin turbo car the first turbo just hides the lag imo, it\'s not really up to much until the 2nd turbo comes on anyway ;)
Pics of our conversion is HERE (http://www.flickr.com/photos/63892811@N00/sets/72057594051258090/)
Good luck,
Paul
P.S. our set up uses pic A, with the fuel pressure reg. set up of pic B.
My set up............ this was 3 years ago so might be a bit sketchey :3Confused
Carl Hayward street port, FMIC, 1300 secondaries, uprated fuel pump + a few other bits, after extensive testing [on rollers AND on the road] convinced me to go \'propper\' single :D I could not improve numbers [on the rollers] with the non-seq. V\'s Seq. And it was a lot more laggy, yes when the non seq. came on line [circ. 4.5k] it was a real hit :yes but, for me a lot less controllable in \'real\' driving - picture approaching {on your private track :Thumbs-up } a 90\' corner in 4th close to flat out, down shift, brake HARD, and boot out of the corner - hit boost on apex [\'cause of the lag] and it makes for an interesting exit.
Maybe I did not give it a chance and was a bit impatient, but I was so much more happier with a \'propper\' single.
PS:- At the time I was running 1bar and making 317ish ATW sequential, running non-squential might have made 320ish.
HTH
Quote from: WavP.S. our set up uses pic A, with the fuel pressure reg. set up of pic B.
Cheers Paul , Didn\'t really want to use pic 3 as it only seems to get rid of half the rats nest , one question regarding pics 1 and 2 , on pic 1 there is no pipe going from the UIM to the wastegate actuator and on pic 2 there is , is it needed or has it just been missed on pic 1 and if it is needed can it just be T\'ed off the one that does the BOV ??
Cheers John , We\'ll just have to see how it turns out , a single is my prefered option but as the rebuild came out of no-where I haven\'t built the piggy bank as much as I wanted , unless someones got one going cheap
Nik - Bonnet vent is under control , will deffinatley be ready by the time the engine is run in
I do know what you mean and as a compromise it aint bad! Just be aware of the pitfalls, if your turbo\'s and controlls are working it does make for a better car.... - from my experience only :guinness
Quote from: TintinCheers Paul , Didn\'t really want to use pic 3 as it only seems to get rid of half the rats nest , one question regarding pics 1 and 2 , on pic 1 there is no pipe going from the UIM to the wastegate actuator and on pic 2 there is , is it needed or has it just been missed on pic 1 and if it is needed can it just be T\'ed off the one that does the BOV ??
Pic 1 is correct, the pipe on side of the actuator is blocked off when using an electronic boost controller, the boost controller solenoid gets boost from the 1st turbos compressor housing then it goes goes back to the now single ported actuator.
Our car doesn\'t really have too much lag, i\'m not sure of the main differences between john\'s and our set ups, but looking at the dyno graph our engine is on full boost by 3800rpm and starts to build from 2500rpm, which I wouldn\'t call exactly laggy :burnout
Paul
Quote from: WavPic 1 is correct, the pipe on side of the actuator is blocked off when using an electronic boost controller, the boost controller solenoid gets boost from the 1st turbos compressor housing then it goes goes back to the now single ported actuator.
Our car doesn\'t really have too much lag, i\'m not sure of the main differences between john\'s and our set ups, but looking at the dyno graph our engine is on full boost by 3800rpm and starts to build from 2500rpm, which I wouldn\'t call exactly laggy :burnout
Paul
Can only say how it felt on the road :3Confused Interesting you say full boost @ 3800 mine felt more like 4.5 - 5K, saw postive pressure from 1800 but realy started to haul from 4+k :mmmm
Boost building from 2.5K , I can certainly live with that , you got any "special" porting done ???
What your saying about the boost controller solenoid would seem to match up with the diagrams in the eboost2 manual , makes sense now cheers
Might get the engine out tomorrow with a bit of luck , done it totally back to front , didn\'t realise you unpluged the ECU and took the loom off with the engine , I\'ve unpluged it all and had to strip it almost completely down to do it :( , never mind it had to be done anyway , think that all thats left to do is split the gearbox and engine , been reading a few threads on it , glad i\'ve found out about the clutch that could have been fun trying to work it out :D , is it do-able one maned this unbolting the clutch lark , I know its going to be a laugh un doing one bolt then moving it round then going back under for the next and so on and so on and ........ but do you need to stop the crank from moving or will it stay sill on its own ???? or would it be easier to remove the clip thingy that I read about ???
A couple of new questions for you
on the non seq conversion you take off the turbo control actuator and weld the gate 90% open , why can\'t you just take the whole gate out aswell ? I would have thought it would cause less disruption to the gas flow if it wasn\'t there at all
next one is to do with the throttle body , I\'ve removed the double throttle and was going to remove the coolant from the TB as well , I was having a look at the fast idle cam and was wondering why you can\'t just take it off thus not needing to wire the cam open , I\'ve taken it off and had a look and can\'t see any problems , any thoughts ??? On a related note to get the fast cam asembly off I had to remove the throttle position sensor , when I came to put it back on I realised the bottom butterfly had fully closed and it wasn\'t before , how critical is it to get it exact or can I adjust it on the car to get the idle to sit right
Last question , this ones to do with the accelarated warm up , I\'m sure I\'ve read that this gets removed with either the double throttle or the coolant flow , can\'t remember which , I can\'t actually find it on the UIM or the TB where is it and do you just remove it or do you need to blank it off
Cheers fellas , I\'ll have more queries for you soon I\'m sure :cheers
Quote from: TintinA couple of new questions for you
on the non seq conversion you take off the turbo control actuator and weld the gate 90% open , why can\'t you just take the whole gate out aswell ? I would have thought it would cause less disruption to the gas flow if it wasn\'t there at all
next one is to do with the throttle body , I\'ve removed the double throttle and was going to remove the coolant from the TB as well , I was having a look at the fast idle cam and was wondering why you can\'t just take it off thus not needing to wire the cam open , I\'ve taken it off and had a look and can\'t see any problems , any thoughts ??? On a related note to get the fast cam asembly off I had to remove the throttle position sensor , when I came to put it back on I realised the bottom butterfly had fully closed and it wasn\'t before , how critical is it to get it exact or can I adjust it on the car to get the idle to sit right
Last question , this ones to do with the accelarated warm up , I\'m sure I\'ve read that this gets removed with either the double throttle or the coolant flow , can\'t remember which , I can\'t actually find it on the UIM or the TB where is it and do you just remove it or do you need to blank it off
Cheers fellas , I\'ll have more queries for you soon I\'m sure :cheers
1. The turbo control actuator flap sits in its own hole/dimple, so if you removed it completely the exhaust gas flow would get disrupted. By welding it at 90% enures the flap covers the hole while allowing the gas to have an "as" straight flow path as possible.
2. I think you should be able to get rid of the fast idle cam etc ok, however I dicided to keep it as it doesn\'t really effect flow. I did remove and flow the secondary butterflies though. The throttle position sensor needs putting on properly or it will not work. You need to tension up the spring and make sure the feet locate on the correct sides of the pivot. You\'ll know you\'ve done it right when you can rotate it in position and it tries to spring back, when the bolts arn\'t in obviously.
3. It\'s directly below the secondary butterfly actuator and has a white plug going onto it from the wiring loom. Look in the workshop manual
Paul
Cheers Paul I\'ll have another look for the AWS , was in a bit of a rush when I was looking last night
I wanted to remove the fast idle cam purely because its not needed anymore and I thought it would clean up the TB a bit
Am I going mad , had another look for the AWS and still cant find it , according to the workshop manual the whatsit that sits directly below the double throttle is the ISC ( Idle Speed Controler ) and the AWS is on the underneath of the UIM and has a tube connecting to the intake elbow , correct ???
There is sod all on the underside of my UIM and the nipple on the intake elbow has a plug on it and its been like that since I got the car , is it possible my car doesn\'t have the AWS ??? I\'ve attatched a pic so you can see
Ahh yes the Jap spec car doesn\'t have this. THe US cars and UK cars did. So no you do not have to worry about ;) THe manual you\'re using is the American one!
Paul
Cheers bud , at least I\'m not going insane , I was wondering if that was the case
Tintin let me know if you find somewhere good to get the turbos checked as I\'m only in Chesterfield and pretty sure the second is not right. I\'ll be rebuilding my engine at the end of Sept so would be good to find somewhere local for this :)
Cheers!!
I\'ve been told AET up near wakefield are pretty good , I\'ve emailed them and they will check turbos free of charge obviously hoping you\'ll get them to fix them
Can\'t remember there web address , all I did was googled AET
Probably not going to get mine checked now as the ones I have Pip has looked at and says there toast and he\'s going to supply me a good set of twins
Cheers matey. I\'ll see what they\'re like when I get my engine out :)
I told you I\'de get more questions for you , these are probably going to up for debate so I\'d appreciate any opinions
First one is about the pre control flapper , from what I\'ve researched theres 3 schools of thought , weld it 90% open , weld it shut or completely remove it , each idea has its own theory to back it up ( can\'t remember all the ins and outs so I won\'t try ) so due to my lack of technical knowledge I don\'t know which would be best
Next one is about porting the exhaust manifold and turbo housing , I found this on one of the american sites , think it was rx7club.com , incidently the cracking on my turbo is almost identical to this and I think I could probably grind out most the cracks if I matched the ports a bit , if this is a viable idea is it worth keeping my turbos as oppose to getting a new (used) set from Pip , might get them checked by AET just to make sure
Question 3 is more of a technical querey , while looking at the turbo pack today I was following the flow paths in my mind and noticed the position of the wastegate flapper , due to its position it looks to me that it will only vent gas past the primary turbo , is this right ??? if so what regulates boost on the secondary in a non sequential conversion ???
Really any opinion will do , even if its to say don\'t bother
Has no-one got any advise ????