When the guy came to fit my alarm the other week, he told me that as the passenger door does not operate the central locking, it means he cannot set up remote central locking on the alarm!!! He reckons the passenger door has no motor if it doesn\'t operate the central locking.
Is he talking crap? Surely the fact that when I lock the door on the drivers side, the fact that it also locks the passenger side means there must be some form of motor over there, otherwise how would it be locking?????
I\'d have thought he only has to connect the relevant wires to the drivers side and it\'s gonna operate the central locking, then?
This is the same guy who flooded my engine, so I already think he\'s a bit of a fool! :evillaugh
Not an expert on this but, as you say, there must be a motor (or solonoid?) in the passenger door or it couldn\'t lock itself. So he must be talking rubbish over this, at least, so could be talking rubbish in general.
I think he originally wanted to get the job done quicker cuz it was raining & it\'d have took him longer if he had to remove door panels & feed wiring, etc. Just spoke to my mate & he has the same (Toad) alarm on his Mitsubishi L200. He said his doesn\'t operate the central locking from the passenger side, but he still has remote CL from his alarm fob.
Looks like when the guy comes back I\'m gonna make sure he does it properly!
Theres no motor in the drivers door (why would there not be a motor in the passenger door ... who has the keys when they walk to a car ... driver or passenger)
What you need is an aftermarket central locking motor to fit in the drivers door. If he genuinely has never seen that setup before I\'d go somewhere else to have my alarm fitted as he can\'t have done that many before !!
I already have central locking. But he just reckons he can\'t connect the alarm to it because it doesn\'t operate from both sides.
Good point..... :Hammer
thats why you need to fit a new aftermarket motor to the drivers door, the motor moves the mechanism in the drivers door which then in turn triggers the standard switches which unlock the passenger door ... its a very common setup
Oh.
How does the current set up work, then? I thought it operated in that way anyway. :3Confused
its does but you move the linkage by turning the key
I was just going to post on this very topic.
Basically was told that the diagrams they have for the RX7 show that motors need to be fitted for remote central locking.
Only when I picked up the car the \'not as technical\' guy said they couldn\'t do it because the locks use cables like the boot latch instead of the metal bar that most cars use.
Is this crap? They fitted my turbo timer ok though. Just got to remove the Greddy one I don\'t need anymore.
i hav a toad 606i fitted and my works the central locking but yes they had to fit another solenid in the drivers door?
you only need the solinoid in the drivers door mate. if u think about it when u sit in and lock the drivers door the passenger locks aswell so he is talkin outa his ass
As already said: you can have remote central locking on your FD - but you need an after market solenoid to fit the drivers door (Already one in passenger). Then you wire up the signals from the alarm for the locking to the drivers solenoid - so that when that operates (Locks/Unlocks) it will send the relevant signal to the passenger door and make that work too. It\'s quite simple really.
All i need to know to do mine, is what tpye of solenoid does the FD use? Is it a two wire solenoid, or more wires (I\'ve seen up to 5 wire types!)
ill take my door card off at the weekend.....
ive just had mine fitted while i had my clifford installed
exactly as mike has said.I did mine myself and tbh it took ages because i had to remove the dash in order to get to the alarm control unit, remove the drivers door, drilled new holes, searched the net with a magnifying glass for a wiring diagram for my alarm and so on. Mind you though i did add the clifford smart windows module at the same time and that took the longest time. It is difficult to get the motor in the right place and i can no longer use the key to lock/unlock the drivers door, because the motor has stiffened the mechanism and the cables just flex, but who needs the key when you have the remote. Post your email\'s up and i\'ll send pics
this is all you need http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-Wire-Central-Locking-Slave-Door-Motor-Solenoid_W0QQitemZ8053292808QQcategoryZ75329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
Quotebecause i had to remove the dash in order to get to the alarm control unit
That\'s what I\'m afraid of! That\'ll be the nasty bit!
it\'s not as bad as you may think though. There are 2 connectors by the ecu and 2 by the steering wheel column. The clocks or heater controls dont need touching. The steering column needs lowering , gear stick removed <3 10mm bolts easy> a few bolts on the dash board, remove the a pillar covers by the windscreen and out it comes. I found the hardest part was taping and organising the mass of wires from the alarm ecu
Quote from: AdriansturgessNot an expert on this but, as you say, there must be a motor (or solonoid?) in the passenger door or it couldn\'t lock itself. So he must be talking rubbish over this, at least, so could be talking rubbish in general.
CHECK THE WIRING INFO HERE http://www.bulldogsecurity.com
OR http://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_RX-7_CENTERAL%20LOCKING%20DIAGRAM%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf
Where abouts are the alarm boxes usually put? Roughly speaking i mean? Just so that i have an idea of what and where to search! I have figured out that all i need is a 2 wire solenoid, as it does not need to conform with the current passenger door solenoid, as all it needs to do is get its feed from the alarm box.
Think this (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-Wire-Slave-Door-Motor-Solenoid-Actuator_W0QQitemZ8054015958QQcategoryZ15329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) might do the job
that is the same motor that i used. There are 2 wires from your alarm unit. one unlock and one lock wire. These wires pulse a 12volt current for 1 second or so..just enough for the motor to travel the full distance. You can\'t wire these directly to the solenoid because they are low current rating, and if you do, you stand the chance of blowing the alarm ecu- so you need 2 relays. Once it is all rigged up, it is just reversing the polarity of the motor..just like swapping the pos+ and neg- wires over on a motor. The alarm ecu is usually located behind the clocks, i dont mean if you remove the clocks and there it is, i mean it is screwed to the chassis behind the dash, in the instrument area but you have no chance in hell trying to wire all this up with the dash in place. :evillaugh
QuoteYou can\'t wire these directly to the solenoid because they are low current rating
Surely a solenoid is low current anyway?
Quote from: munkayill take my door card off at the weekend.....
ive just had mine fitted while i had my clifford installed
this would be fantastic. if you can take photos, i\'ll get back to my alarm place and ask why they couldn\'t fit it when it\'s obviously possible.
cheers :)
The 2 wires alone could prob operate the motor without the relays, but i am just going on what i have read off the net. I would rather be safe than sorry when your talking many £££ for a new alarm ecu plus the hassle of fitting it or paying to get it fit compared to 2 relays that cost under a fiver. Its just a case of running a 12+ wire from the battery to the 2 relays.
QuoteI would rather be safe than sorry when your talking many £££ for a new alarm ecu compared to 2 relays that cost uder a fiver
True. But I\'m sure the manufacturers of these alarm systems knew all about solenoids, and currents, so i reckon they always intended the wires to directly access the solenoids...but maybe not. Perhaps it depends on a car by car basis. Dunno really! Ok, i\'ve confused myself!
you can get the wiring diagrams off the net, and with my particular alarm (clifford) it states you must use a relay for each wire. Maybe some manufacturers of alarms incorporate the relays into the ecu.
Quote from: RobbieRX-7you can get the wiring diagrams off the net, and with my particular alarm (clifford) it states you must use a relay for each wire. Maybe some manufacturers of alarms incorporate the relays into the ecu.
Can you email me (forums@probedb.co.uk) the stuff you have for your Clifford? I\'ve got a Concept 300 and want the remote locking but need more info so I can ask them why they can\'t fit it.
Cheers!
Paul.
email sent paul. Your in luck mate cus i have the wiring diagram and the users manual for the concept 300. tbh with this wiring diagram, you can do anything you want like adding a smart windows module to close or vent the windows via remote or add an engine start module. With yours you can add different siren tones and adjust the settings using a laptop computer and the cliffnet wizard cable. You can get these add ons from ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CLIFFORD-CAR-ALARM-CLIFFNET-WIZARD-PRO-KIT-COMPLETE_W0QQitemZ8053781721QQcategoryZ75329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Clifford-Smart-Windows-4-remote-power-window-control_W0QQitemZ8055530241QQcategoryZ75329QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I have the diagram for the toad alarm i have already (Ai606), which is a start.
Cheers nikp. Everyone thanks for the stuff :)
I emailed Clifford for another dealer and their head of sales is giving me a ring tomorrow since I complained about Technicar in Sheffield.
crikes. how many replies to one question. the pass door has a solinoid (motor)the drivers has a switch on the lock. fit a motor on the drivers door (about £6.50 for a maystar universal from a factor) wire the alarm(any alarm in the world) which will run at least 5amps and run one motor without a doubt
directly to this motor and connect the motor to the existing rods or wires in the door which will run the rest of the centeral locking.
Quote from: jon hainescrikes. how many replies to one question. the pass door has a solinoid (motor)the drivers has a switch on the lock. fit a motor on the drivers door (about £6.50 for a maystar universal from a factor) wire the alarm(any alarm in the world) which will run at least 5amps and run one motor without a doubt
directly to this motor and connect the motor to the existing rods or wires in the door which will run the rest of the centeral locking.
and you have just added to the thread with similar information to what we have said :rollin
i know great isnt it