HI all
Do you have to bleed the clutch when you do the brakes as other cars I\'ve worked on with the same res, usually have a wier in them somewhere to separate the fluid for the clutch & brake systems, so you only have to bleed the sytem with the air in it.
Cheers
Gerry
yeah mate in this order..
nearside rear
offside rear
nearside front
clutch
offside front
cheers
Donato
wonder why it doesnt mention that in the service manual. order diff to but it is for a LHD car in the manual
last time i did it without the clutch and the pedal was spongy, did it in that order and it was fine..
will sticky this thread for others in the future.
clutch slave on drivers side of g/box if I remember right?
slight hijack - I think I have the US manual and assume the slave cylinder is also known as the clutch release cylinder??
Quote from: Gerry Mclutch slave on drivers side of g/box if I remember right?
I thought it was the other side...cant remember to be honest... :confused:
Recently bled my brakes after a pad change to CC-X too and the difference is well... amazing! I don\'t think I need 6pots just yet!
can you bleed the brakes without taking the wheels off??
yes you certainly can. Even better if you have larger than standard wheels.
Brake expert told me that more pots is for racing to cope with the heat, dose not necesarily mean more stoping power. He said a well setup 4pot system will do just fine for street application & the ocasional track day. You see in racing setups its all about heat, thicker discs & more pots to evenly dispers the heat to stop fade, same reason they put slots & dimples in the disc to help with the heat issue.
I use stock calipers with EBC front rotors & stock rear rotors, EBC yellow stuff pads, 5.1dot fluid, braided lines & it will put you through the window from 250kph in less than 100m on my local track. They will die under full on racing like conditions due to heat soak. Thats when you need bigger units.
More pistons in theory gives you an overall larger surface area to act on the pad, and gives a more even, consistent pressure over a greater length of pad than fewer larger pistons would. It\'s analogous to storing round jars in a square box, the smaller the diameter of the jars, the more you can fit in because they tesselate better, thus storing a greater overall volume. It\'s got as much to do about the trends of the time as any real practical advantage in anything but the most competitive of race conditions, though. You could see the trend in motorbike developement recently, back in the mid 90\'s when Yamaha first put six-pots on, all the other manufacturers had to follow suit to cash in the trend. Now you can\'t find a sportsbike without the de rigeur radial-mounted four-piston calipers, and the six-pots are no regarded as old hat.
Pad compound and disc material probably have more to do with how well a brake system copes with heat transference than caliper design or the number of pistons. You want a disc that gets to operating temperature very fast for instant bite, but does not store heat beyond its optimum range, and a pad that drops heat very fast without passing too much on through the caliper to the fluid, because its when the fluid starts to get hot that the brake efficiency really takes a drop. Then there are other factors like how much moisture content has corrupted the brake fluid, how far down the pad is worn and so lost thermal efficiency, and many other variables. Simple to explain and understand, very difficult to put in to practice and maintain at optimum efficiency! :yes
nice thread resurrection, btw :Thumbs-up
Cheers, never knew it was dead.
Thanks for adding more info. Also I was told that just because racing brake fluid is for racing & people think its better than normal, well yes it is but it also attracts moisture realy badly when used for street use. If you used a race fluid for street use you need to bleed the brakes quite often. Good tip for new people to track outings as I have learnt. Bleed your brakes every time before each track day for optimal results.
Good threads never die :)!
Yeah, \'s true, the higher the dot rating of brake fluid, the more hydroscopic it is (think that\'s the right word!) meaning the more readily it absorbs water, which obviously ruins the efficiency. If someone uses a higher-rated fluid on a road car, they\'re generally either deluding themselves about their braking needs on the road, have too much free time to spend flushing through brake fluid every weekend, or are fixing for an unexpected rendevouz with the rear end of a bus :Laugh!
Haha....yea the bus things a defenate NO NO. I was told 5.1 dot fluid is good for the street.
What do you recon?
Hmmm. I\'m never really sure tbh! You read all the bumf on the subject of brake fluid and it says "oooh, never use this type on the street because it\'ll go off unless you change it" and then meet someone who\'s used it for ages and never had problems with it. To be fair, mate, you probably know a lot more about it than me! Your car sounds like a truly well-sorted beast, and if you happily use dot 5.1 on the street, that\'s good enough for me.
I\'ve not had a chance to get into playing with the brake system on my FD properly yet (there\'s always been something more pressing urgent to fix!) but I have put a lot of time and money into faffing with braking systems on my bikes over the years. The best combination I ever found was ductile iron rotors mounted on a circlip drive rather than bobbins, fully-floating on the bell and using an organic rather than a sintered compound of pad. I used this set-up with proper Silkolene racing spec brake fluid and with bog-stock off the shelf Halfords unbranded motor factor fluid, and it seemed to make no difference! Like I said, the major overriding factor seems to be more how much heat the pads/disc combination can lose without transferring it to the fluid in the first place.
The problem\'s even further complicated by the silicone-based fluids, which allegedly don\'t absorb water at all like the glycol or whatever they are traditional type, but still operate under the same DOT ratings! I think it\'s something that should be really straightforward (isn\'t that the point of a universal rating system?) but in actuality is a bit of a black art. I guess the bottom line is that for street use you\'re seldom going to stretch even the standard capabilities of the FD\'s brake system, it\'s only like you said in the first place that when you\'re using it for heavy track work that the cracks will start to show.
Hmm yes....just like what happened to me. Iv cracked a set of discs, mined you they lasted for over 200 laps over a 2 year period. Not bad for a street setup & a track bedin that shortend thier life a litte.
Yea I agree on the not pushing the stock setup to thier limit on the road. With good pads like EBC yellows, Good fluid & braied line on stock mazda calipers you will find they can stop you very quickly. Besides those huge 6 to 8 piston calipers will just add more weight to your nice light FD.
what if you have a hydro? lol what order do you do it in then
a hydo is just in line with the rear brakes? so you would just follow the same procedure?
Next question is it the same order for an auto fd? is there any bleeding to be done on the gearbox still?
or is it still same way but no bleeding to be done at theauto box?
Basic rule is start at the furthest from the MC and work your way towards it - for all hydraulics that are linked :)
With auto you have no clutch, so no clutch slave, so it\'s just the 4 corners.
With a hydro, you need to bleed that after the rears IIRC.