Hi all,
Well my plan of giving the new RX some space for a week or two has gone out the window, I decided to crack right on with stripping the engine bay down and getting the engine out.
The block has suspected oil seal failure, it was running smooth but was kicking out some white smoke on open throttle, so I could be looking at a blown turbo I suppose instead? (correct me if thats wrong)
The plan was always to strip the engine down anyway, purely to gain some experience of working on them, and if it turns out all I need to do is replace the water/oil seals and then put it back together, its a bonus!
Not having to get new tips/plates/housings etc means it should all be up and running much sooner, fingers crossed.
Thought I would take some really basic step-by step pictures of what i\'m doing so that; a) people who don\'t know much about the mechanics of rx7\'s can see how even a cack-handed amateur spanner monkey like me can remove and rebuild an engine (hopefully) and b) so people can tell me when I do something disastrously wrong before I go too far!
I forgot to take a starting picture, but basically it didn\'t look much different to this:
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/DSC00361.jpg)
The only things I have removed at this stage are the bonnet (dont forget to disconnect the washer jets) big red strut brace, and the two intercooler pipes that run forwards to my FMIC in the bumper. BTW these pipes are really badly home-made, anyone know where I can get some decent cheap replacements?
Next:
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/DSC00363.jpg)
I got rid of the bonnet strut that holds the bonnet open, cos it kept falling on my head. I couldnt put it in the down position cos it crosses over the radiator which i want to remove.
I went on to remove the sleek headlights because they were totally bodged into place and will need new mounts made up to give them a good fit. One of the spring adjusters had come out and instead of re-attaching it, the previous owner had tied it back with a piece of twine! hmm stylish. Also one headlight was wedged in place with a wheel nut used as a wedge and a balled up rag jammed into the corner.
I took the covers out but left the bulbs sitting in the voids still connected until I can get my electrician friend to look over all the electrics. I want to disconnect as few things as possible!
Also got rid of far-too-big battery, which I am thinking of relocating to boot or interior.
Next:
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/DSC00364.jpg)
After draining the coolant, i removed the radiator which is very simple, just disconnect all hoses then it\'s one bolt either side and lift it out of the locating mounts at the bottom. I also took the AST out, which had been relocated to the left hand side by the left headlight, i think its usually on the right?
Took alternator and bracket off, just by looking for bolts holding it on, there\'s one long one on the left and an adjuster on the right, unplug some bits and bobs and it comes right off.
I took the air filter from the front of the turbo, and I cant see any makers name on the turbo housing, this does worry me a bit.
I was told it is a T78 but i just pray its not some ebay power job, I know next to nothing about turbo\'s so i\'m a little worried. It has a raised flat plate on the front that looks like it should hold a name but its just blank.
Note my inspired use of used latex gloves to cover the open entryways, they are practical, AND it looks quite funny! (cue bad \'hand\' jokes)
Thats it for now, I just bolted the bonnet back on, covered the headlight voids and stuck it back in the drive. Hopefully will be resuming tomorrow night. :)
Coming along nicely buddy :driving . For the intercooler pipes i would get fusion fabrication to redo them, i bet if you send the old pipes off it wouldnt take them to long to fix up some shiny new ones. For the turbo, is the T78 one of the greddy ranges? I have a TD07 and it doesnt have any markings on it apart from Mitsubishi. Im not a turbo expert but i always have judged turbo quality on how the downpipe fits the back of them, if it has a v band or a bolt fitting device thing then i reackon its tip top, but some off the cheaper ones just use an interference fit mehtod, and that doesnt sound to good to me, but what do i know :Hammer Good luck with the rebuild, i think that if the turbo was gone it would be blue smoke!!!!, white smoke is generally water (he thinks :eek )
Cheers Andy
Great start mate, if you need a hand getting any of the heavier stuff out give me a shout...
...and I\'ll come and watch you struggle. :D
Gandy, cheers for the info, got any contact details for fusion fab?
One pipe needs to have an angle altered slightly as I dont like the way it joins to the intercooler but i\'m sure I can figure out how to describe the alterations needed.
The turbo has a square, flat flange that bolts in each corner to a square flange on the downpipe, im assuming with a gasket between the two, so hopefully this means it is an ok turbo... I should take some close up pics i suppose.
Mr stormbleeder, come over any time you want, I\'d only trust you hold spanners anyway, and only then after extensive training. I wouldnt want you to injure yourself with a blunt object. ;)
Here you go matey
http://www.fusionfabrication.fsnet.co.uk/index.htm
The turbo sounds just like mine :Thumbs-up Think that you have a winner. But then it means its bigger than mine :p
Excellent Dan keep it up buddy :)
ohhhhhhh good come back! :D But seriously if you need a hand with anything give me a shout, I want to get as much experience as I can before i get mine and have to do it all myself. :S
Dan
Note my inspired use of used latex gloves to cover the open entryways, they are practical, AND it looks quite funny! (cue bad \'hand\' jokes)
Is that what you call safe Rex?
Dave
Hi Daverey, nice to see you still about the place, everything ok?
Right, I only managed to get two pictures out of five and a half hours of work, I was just too busy spannering away I suppose!
Friday night saw the welcome arrival of Davehg to help me rip the engine out, which we managed to complete by 12.30am that night!
First picture shows the engine ready to be removed, this picture was taken after several hours of awkward nut and bolt removal that would have been nigh on impossible without Dave\'s amazing swivel headed snap-on socket wrench.
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/enginealmostout.jpg)
Basically we just went around the engine disconnecting it from everything that didnt need to come out of the engine bay, including separating the downpipe from the turbo and wastegate (turbo is easier to remove once engine is out) pulling p/s and a/c pumps out to one side, undoing clutch from flywheel through small access hatch in the bottom of the bell housing, undoing bell housing from engine (v. awkward) pulling loom out of vehicle through grommet, disconnecting loom from gearbox, undoing oil lines to the oil coolers, and unplugging a few various wires and vacuum pipes and things (all this technical jargon, blimey!)
Here is the engine lifted out and dangling in space, it turns out the turbo makes the engine so wide that the strut tower was actually cut and re-welded flat to accomodate it!
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/engineout.jpg)
After this we removed the sump and then sat the engine on the floor to strip the rest of the parts off ready to chuck it in the van in the morning.
Turbo and manifold and wastegate all come off as one (very heavy), then plenum comes off, a couple more oil lines, and dave managed to get the injectors, fuel lines and loom etc etc all off in one big lump, to make it easier to re-attach later (i Hope)
One stripped block (mostly) and it\'s time for bed.
Saturday morning we slung the engine in the back of the van and headed down to Re:worx with the original plan to get geff to crack open the flywheel nut for me and then inspect the block internals for wear/usability, all of which he offered to do for free!
I took the turbo too, and we decided it was probably the tubby and not damaged engine oil seals spitting out the white smoke. So the turbo is being checked over, and if it turns out to be damaged, i shouldnt actually need to rebuild the engine! so much for this being a rebuild thread, it\'s now a removal and installation thread. oh well.
So thats how it stands right now, I need to start tidying up the engine bay while I have the chance, and refitting the sleek headlights properly. Anyone know a good auto electrician, cos these electrics are scaring the bejesus out of me!
Excellent dandan, looks like the car will be back on the road very soon.
Nice of davehg and the re worx boys for helping you. :)
Cheers freddy, fingers crossed.
Must also give a big thanks to Tim at rx motors who let me skulk about in his unbelievably huge cavern full of RX bits for the rest of saturday afternoon!
Even let me wield some spanners on a dead engine which was great for the experience! thanks Tim.
Hi Dan
if its just the turbo looks like your good karma came back quickly fingers crossed. Spent half the weekend changing batery or at least that was the plan, as once the old one was out thought I would clean up and paint under the battery, still cleaning. Hope to see you at Brooklands.
Dave
This is a great thread Dan... Nice to see you getting some hands on experience. it\'s something i\'d be a little pessimistic about doing as i don\'t really have any back up in my area lol...
(Hope you kept an eye on my RX while you were at Tim\'s?? lol)
Yeah scott i saw your car, Tim said I could break the engine open for practice, hope you dont mind?! lol
Yours was in the main workshop type area so I think its the one he is working on at the moment, have you checked with him to see if it will be ready by Thurs? All looks pretty finished.
Daverey, Would you like to come over and see my new car, perhaps advise on the best way to clean up the engine bay, you seem pretty handy in the \'restoration\' side of things!
Cool thread, nice one DanDan - and good luck.
Hi Dan
Spoke to Matt and Tim, it\'s up and running, they\'re just finishing off some little niggle jobs i needed doing. but they\'re plowing deeper into my pockets lol, as been told i now need a new radiator :( and 2 new front tyres.... (Now where did i put my spare kidney??) At least i know they\'re doin a grand job, and shall be praising them highly when i get her back ....
But still on for thurs :D
excellent news, i have a spare stock sized rad... i think it survived the accident, prob no good for you though, not big enough.
Well looking forward to my day off on thurs!
Dan
may have an hour or so wednesday evening will call if I have. Would like to see new car.
Dave
Quick little update,
I have started the long slow cleaning process, a lot of things will just be getting a good scrub, but there will be a bit of paint needed and possibly some elbow grease, anyone know where I can get a nice big tub of that from? ;)
First thing that came to hand was the radiator, so i just cleaned it down, picked out the bits of dead bug etc, and cleaned a bit of corrosion off the fan housings.
Here are the rad mounts, now i know it\'s not an important part of the engine bay but hopefully if I can start as I mean to go on it should look good in the end.
Before:
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/radmountsbefore.jpg)
And After:
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/radmountsafter.jpg)
much better! :)
Fingers crossed everything else will be as easy to clean!
ooooh look what i got back several weeks ahead of schedule...
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/turbofixedallthree.jpg)
Thanks to re:worx and whoever their turbo specialist is for getting it sorted so quick, I wasnt expecting it to come back looking quite so shiny! :)
One Word: Autosol
Three Words: Bloody good stuff
A Few More Words: after buying a job lot of elbow grease(tm) off ebay, I got to polishing some of the shiny bits on the engine, they had been previously polished (with the exception of the alternator) but had been left to tarnish for a long time and were in a pretty sorry state so I picked up some highly recommended Autosol metal polish and got cracking.
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/shinyfillerneckadjust.jpg)
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/shiny-turboadjust.jpg)
Pretty good i reckon, the turbo could do with another hour of attention really, but I want to get the engine in so it will have to wait. still got to do the plenum but I did a test piece of it and it is going to sparkle!
On the mechanics side of things, I got the sump back on, filler neck and water pump back on the block, lower intake manifold, secondary rail, primaries, fuel and oil lines, etcetc back on, oil filler on, and coil pack on. :)
The sump required some elbow grease to get the old sealant off (good thing I bought a big tub), but when I had both contact surfaces looking cleaner than the popes forehead I covered them in Mazda sump sealent and bolted it all back together. (not forgetting to put the oil pickup filter/tube thing in first)
A new o-ring went into the thermostat and a gasket in the connection between filler and block, with a bit of Hylomar to be safe, as the filler was covered in limescale-y stuff which looked like the whole thing wasn\'t very water tight last time it was put together.
When Davehg came and helped me pull the engine out, he left the injectors, rail, fuel lines, oil lines, remainder of rats nest, loom etc all connected to the lower intake manifold and pulled the whole thing off in one. It was a bit awkward jiggling it all back into place myself but I managed it eventually, plugged in everything that looked like it should be plugged in, and bolted it all down. There are still a few open connections but some of them will go to other ancillaries which are yet to go on.
The whole thing will be checked over by an expert before I put it back in anyway, just to be safe.
Then I just slapped the coil packs back on top (i had mis-labelled two of the HT leads, good thing they only reach to certain spark plugs!)
I didn\'t get a picture of how it looks now, but it is certainly taking shape, and thus far nothing has got me completely stumped, which is a minor miracle! :):)
OOOO Very shiny dan...looks great... so should be up and running by the end of the weekend then :D... wish my rebuild was a quick!!
Cheers
Gord :)
ah you may jest gord, but i fully intend to turn the key before the sun sets on monday!
Barring any major disasters this shouldn\'t be a difficult timeframe i\'ve got four solid free days to do it, everything is ready, it just needs to be put in place. Not looking forward to locating the block onto the bell housing on my own but i\'ll give it my best shot! everybody wish me luck please.
Good luck mate --- nice job. :cool
LOL...Dan ok ok ill believe ya!!
OO have fun...i took it out on my own..would have been eaiser if the old man actually made an effort to help!!! :2Mad :spank
Good Luck mate...expect a vid of it running on monday!! PROOF!
Ta
Gord :D
Good work Dan. No mention of what failed internally, what did you end up replacing?
Kev
Hi kev, right I dont want to curse it but when we had everything out, geff looked over then engine and reckoned there were no immediate signs of oil seal failure to cause the white smoke, so I decided not to break the block apart immediately. The turbo then got sent off to be looked at and it was found to need the oil seals replacing, so i\'m hoping against hope that the turbo was the cause of the white smoke, and I don\'t need to rebuild the block at all!
I suppose i\'ll find out when i turn the key...
Id say if the engines got more than 50k on it rebuild it anyway.
no worries on that front bobfish, the engine is less than 10k out of a rebuild from WGT so I\'m hoping everything should be good. Both tim (rxmotors) and geff (RE:worx) have commented on it having great compression just from turning the flywheel by hand.
its going in today so wish me luck!
Good luck Dan! :)
Howd it go?
I was a bit lazy so it went in today instead, but it went really well up until the point where I cannot get my bloody clutch bloody bolted to my bloody flywheel.
anyway, story so far:
took the front bumper off so i could get the engine hoist close enough to drop the engine onto the bell housing locators, the intercooler needed to come off too as it was a front mount (looks quite cool i reckon)
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/emptybaywithslam2.jpg)
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/emptybaywithslam.jpg)
I was going to take the wings off bolted to the front bumper but the side skirts are blended in to the wings which is a bit of a pain, as I also wanted to adjust them forward slightly as one door rubs.
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/emptybay.jpg)
Here\'s the engine all ready and waiting to drop in,
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/enginehanging2.jpg)
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/enginehanging.jpg)
And after a reasonably straighforward 30-40 mins, it popped down into the engine mount holes nicely!
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/enginein.jpg)
I havent started connecting everything up yet, i thought i would do the annoying stuff on the underside first (clutch, slave cylinder, starter motor, etc) and now i\'ve come inside in a strop cos i cant get the clutch bolted to the flywheel. :(
P.S 1000 posts, woo!
Looks very good, I\'m still debating whether to pull my engine and out and make a quick trip to see a specialist before I try turning the key. Esp with all the work I\'ve been doing.
How hard was the engine to get out?
Last year I swapped two engines into my Prelude, 1 due to a crankshaft keyway shattering and the other due to low oil pressure :(
I see my arm made it into shot, Yeah I\'m famous. :D
How goes work on getting the clutch connected dude?
Dan if you are still struggling to get the clutch back together, have you got some longer bolts you could use to locate it. I f you put a nut on first then you can wind the nut down until you can get the correct ones in, be careful when you turn it round as this may foul on something.
Dave
Daverey knows the dance, when i did my rebuild i managed to find some slightly longer bolts. Put one in, tighten it finger tight. Get friend with ratchet on eccentric shaft to rotate crank 180 degrees, put another bolt in and tighten it down a bit, about half a centimeter should be good. Next , turn crank another 180, and tighten down the other bolt. Now you should be able to get the other 4 in finger tight. You can remove the longer bolts then and replace them with the proper ones and start tightening with a criss cross pattern. Having a friend help you is essential at this stage though, as itd take hours if you had to keep getting up.
The way i did it though was to actually remove the spring washers from the standard bolts to give me a bit of extra length i could use. After id got them tightened down to a point where i could put them in with the spring washers, i removed them and put the spring washers back on.
hope this helps! Looks good bud.
Well slap my back and call me a mechanic, I got the clutch on!
what I did in the end was put a bolt in without the spring washer so it had a slightly longer reach, finger tightened it, then the clutch didnt jam when i rotated it. put all the bolts in like this, then tightened them a little, then took each one out and put the spring washer back on and tightened them up, hey presto!
Had a bit of a panic when they were all done up, i rotated the flywheel and it jammed to a stop, then i remembered i had put a ratchet on the pulley nut in case i needed someone to turn it from the front and it had hit the filler neck! oops.
EDIT: lol just noticed this is exactly how bobfish described the process! great minds and all that...
Good news!
Quotethen the clutch didnt jam when i rotated it
when i did my clutch it kept jamming on me too - didn\'t think of anything like that and just used dogged will power to get the silly thing turning! Good pointer for me for when i do mine - engine coming out at the weekend!
he said the clutch didnt jam lol
IT\'S ALIVE!
\'nuff said really.
:):):):):):):):):):):):):):):)
well done that man, roll on rotorstock :cheers
score! Does it still smoke?
Well done Dan, is all the bodywork back together as well if you need any nut or bolts etc just PM me.
ps have you seen the red fd near you i have seen it turning into Oakmount road from both ends in the last week, even waved once as I thought it was tricky.
Dave
GOOD MAN..at last :).. Took your time didnt ya!! :D
Ta
Gord :)
Bobfish, there was a very small amount of white smoke coming out immediately after it fired up but i think that is to be expected and it faded pretty quickly. It has not yet been revved or even run for long as something started to smoke under the bonnet from around the turbo, but on inspection it seems it was only some residue from the installation, or possibly a bit of oil coming out of the oil feed line to the turbo which i sealed up a bit tighter.
I\'ll run it for longer again soon (quite scared in case it was a fluke and doesnt fire up again!) and keep everyone informed.
Daverey, nice shiny new nuts and bolts would be nice, some of the bodywork ones have seen better days, especially the ones joining bumper to wings.
All in all i\'m quite pleased with myself. :)
Very nicely done mate, was great to hear it running.
well done mate..were all proud of ya :god
just thought i\'d stick this pic up, almost eveything is on and i think the engine is actually running in this shot.
When all the metal bits are polished up it really gleams, they are covered in grime from mucky installation hands at the moment, just need a polished alt. to top it off.
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/enginerunning.jpg)
what is left to do? let see now;
*Renovate and re-fit headlights (new adjuster bolts and springs, lick of paint and new fixing bolts)
*Clean and re-fit headlight covers, might have to get my fibreglass head on as one of the fixings has worked loose.
*Re-attach front bumper and try to adjust driver wing slightly to miss driver door, all using nice new bolts where possible (cheers daverey)
*Make oil catch can (where\'s that coke bottle gone....)
*Re-locate battery to boot and devise some way of securing it down, any suggestions?
*Check out all lights work etc, the electrics look a bit touch and go in places.
*swap 19 inch wheels for some more sensible 17\'s
*Get the little bugger insured and MOT\'d!
Looking good Dan keep up the good work :)
tidied my front bumper up today, just gave it a wash and found some nice shiny paint under all the dust:
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/bumpernomesh2.jpg)
Not bad considering i used the antique bottle of spray wax i found at the back of the cupboard! lol
Then I put the mesh back in, after spraying it black which I think will look much nicer.
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/bumperwithmesh1.jpg)
Then a friend came over and I had to change her brake pads so didn\'t manage to get my battery relocated or bumper fitted, tomorrow it is then. :)
oil catch tank, this one\'s for you, Era ;)
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/oilcatchtank.jpg)
It\'s a colour scheme thing, honest.
Lights are back in, they were totally bodged in when I got the car, one was wedged in with a wheel nut and a rag, and I thought it was going to be a right effort getting them back in.
Imagine my suprise when the adjustment on the sides of the mounting brackets was all I needed to change to get them in quite nicely!
Undo 3 allen head bolts, move bracket, tighten. I have no idea why the previous owner bodged them so badly.
Bulbs back in place
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/DSC00452.jpg)
Lower covers on
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/dandantrash/DSC00453.jpg)
I will re-stick the acrylic covers back on soon, forgot to bring the foam tape home from work, oops.
Now, once all this was done, and I also finished relocating the battery, I decided to start her up. Unfortunately it didn\'t all go to plan. basically it started fine, but settled straight away to a very low idle around 7-800rpm and the HEAT light was instantly on constant on the dash.
I checked a few readings on the FC but all seemed ok apart from the low idle, anyway after only a minute or so I switched it off.
Had a good look in the engine bay and realised I had unplugged the plug into the thing on the back side of the plenum, near the butterfly end, i think its idle control(?) so i stuck that back in, and couldnt see anything else i might have left off.
Turned her over again, and it idled a little higher, about 1000-1200rpm but the HEAT light was still on constant. so i switched it off after a minute or two.
The only things i have changed since i ran it last, are to put the lights in, move the battery, and a vac pipe that comes off the oil injectors was plugged into the system at the back of the plenum, i left this open to atmos on the direction of Fro(rob) and plugged the vacuum opening.
What have i done to it?
Could it be an electrical thing? i screwed on an earth that i cant remember unscrewing down by the lights, both light sets have an earth then there was a third one that i connected, should i try disconnecting this?
Is the oil injector vac pipe the cause? it was thought having it connected to the vac system may have been the cause of extra oil in the system, and was told it is supposed to be open to atmos, is this right?
any other ideas?
Quote from: dandanHad a good look in the engine bay and realised I had unplugged the plug into the thing on the back side of the plenum, near the butterfly end, i think its idle control(?) so i stuck that back in, and couldnt see anything else i might have left off.
what exactly did you unplug/plug back in? A pic would help. Dont worry about the heat light too much for now, that is something to do with the cat...just a warning that the cat is too hot, but You prob have a cat replacement pipe so that eliminates that problem. Have a good look under the car and see wether it has a cat or straight through pipe. If you have a straight through pipr, then you just wire a resistor in line and it stops the heat light. You might have disturbed the tps sensor which controls the idle of the engine. Does the sensor plug have 3+ wires on it?
Quote from: dandanIs the oil injector vac pipe the cause? it was thought having it connected to the vac system may have been the cause of extra oil in the system, and was told it is supposed to be open to atmos, is this right?
any other ideas?
the oil injector vents should run to the intake (not the uim) or you can use one of the small filters from the original rat\'s nest.. on rx7club some people advocated blanking them but I can\'t see that being a good idea since they are vented on the original setup.
the heat light sounds like the pfc thinks something is disconnected..?
Robbie, all ran fine prior to the changes I mentioned in my post, I spoke to some peeps about it today and they also think another sensor may have come unplugged, possibly the fuel temp on the secondary rail, im going to check it in a bit.
Heat light never came on before, only since i moved these couple of pipes about.
Fro, if you get bored feel free to drop by and see what you can see! ;)
I can probably pop over on Monday evening Dan.. I\'m in bloody centre parcs at the moment :2Rolleyes
It does sound as if something\'s unplugged. You can check the sensors on the commander but I\'ve not got the manual on me (think it\'s under the etc menu)
Cheers
Rob
Quote from: dandanRobbie, all ran fine prior to the changes I mentioned in my post, I spoke to some peeps about it today and they also think another sensor may have come unplugged, possibly the fuel temp on the secondary rail, im going to check it in a bit.
Heat light never came on before, only since i moved these couple of pipes about.
Fro, if you get bored feel free to drop by and see what you can see! ;)
Nice one Rob, be great if you could.
I just went to start it, pushed the fuel temp plug on firmly, (it did look a little loose) and checked for errors on the commander and it said all sensors were ok, and the heat light was off too. Winner, thinks me.
Turned it over and it fired, but then bogged down, coughed and spluttered and dropped right off and died. took about ten seconds. Sounds like a fuel problem to me, what the hell have i done to it now?!
Bloody rotaries, don\'t know why I bother lol!
You probably flooded her mate by start stopping a couple of times. So it was the fuel temp sensor in the end then? Greg.
but if i flooded it surely it wouldnt have started at all? You can\'t flood a running engine can you?!
It fired up and ran, went to a nice high warm up idle of 1800 for a couple of seconds and then just dropped and dropped until it died. Fuel gauge says half a tank but maybe it\'s broken and i\'m all out of fuel...
I think it must have been the fuel temp sensor because once i pushed it in firmly there were no errors highlighted and the heat light went off. Also I had my hand through that way a few days previously so could very well have nudged it loose.
could be freyed wires or summat causing the problem with the connector mate.
and yes it is very possible to flood a running engine. Ask me how i know :)
hope all goes good mate! Take it easy for a bit before planting it...make sure your seals are all good etc.
im pretty sure the connector istelf was a bit loose before i pushed it on so hopefully that was it.
Would be nice if it is just a flood, the previous two runs (2 days prior) were only about a minute each so this could be the case?
*runs off to find de-flooding procedure thread*
if your car is started then youve already de-flooded it.
Cold starts can cause flooding. Did you have your injectors cleaned? how many miles on them? with 50k+ injectors and quick stop starts flooding is a major issue.
Hows she run apart from that?
If you started it, but it didnt have time to warm up properly before it cut out then it could be flooded now. Pip told me to let the water temp get to around 60 degrees before switching it off.
ok so it may be flooded now, i dont know as i have not tried to start it again, but what made it die once it was started? Could that happen from it having previously been flooded from the two stop start runs two days previous? I really dont see how an engine that is running can then die from flooding, surely more likely something like fuel starvation? Flooding is the opposite to that isn\'t it?
Odo has 40 odd thousand k\'s (not miles) on the clock, i have no idea how accurate this is though, injectors werent cleaned, at least not by me, the engine wasn\'t rebuilt this time round, just removed and put back in, as it was only the turbo in need of repair.
Fro is coming over tonight so hopefully we can figure it out, what is the easiest way to detect flooding? take a plug out and see if it\'s covered in fuel?
(oh by the way car ran fine and dandy before i switched a couple of pipes about, but i switched them due to expert advice which made perfect snese when explained to me, thats why im hesitant to just set it up back the way it was...)
Quote from: dandanFro is coming over tonight so hopefully we can figure it out, what is the easiest way to detect flooding? take a plug out and see if it\'s covered in fuel?
yeah it would be worth having a look at one of the plugs.. have you got any usable spare plugs? I\'m thinking it might be fuel starvation but we\'ll see for sure later :)
let me know when you\'re near home and I\'ll pop over (let me know your postcode again, I\'m going to let the satnav drive this time ;) )
Damn i just wrote a massive post explaining how well the car is running and the computer went skitz and crashed.
Well strap yourselves in:
Fro came over and checked the PFC and looked over the engine and everything seemed ok so we fired it up and it worked fine but it isnt idling high on warm up but im not too fussed about that so i took it out for a spin round the block, naughty i know but hey, and it behaved really well and the wastegate sounded awesome on lift off even though i only put it barely into positive boost cos i was being careful and now everything is going well apart from the oil feed to the turbo is not sealed so i will put some PTFE on the thread unless anyone thinks its a bad idea or has another suggestion and then pretty soon i can get it MOT\'d and on the road as soon as i get all the front lights working.
Aaaand breathe.
ahh good you survived your trip round the block then :)
The leak from the oil feed might disappear if you nip the bolt up a bit, is it just weeping a little or a full on torrent? :D
Great news and congrats :)
Cheers rob, it was just weeping but i already tightened it once and put a little hylomar in to try and seal it, i think it needs a more perm solution.
cheers ds2000