Hi
After some of the stuttering problems I have been having I thought i\'d cracked it but appartetly not.
The car is hesating and stutterign under throttle, it feels like it could be missfiring, this is an intermitant problem and I could do with an idea of what to look for next as I\'m starting to lose my temper with it.
I thought the problem was intially with the alternator as when I came back to the car a few times the battery was very low and I was getting some feedback throught the car radio.
I have put a diffrent alternator on the car and taken the battery to be tester and it was faulty so replaced that, I then took the car for a drive this evening and the car is still stuttering.
I\'m starting to get really fed up with the car not running more that it is runnng, what should I look at next.
The car is a 94 with a standard engine and ecu. it starts fine and the boost gauge reads a constant vacuum. When it runs it hits full boost and almost full boost on the second turbo (its been doingt this for ages though).
Could it be a plug? Earth Fault, I\'d assum the leads are good as there 10mm magnecour and only 13 months old.
Any Ideas I beinging to get very confused.
Alan
Have you tried a ECU reset if running the stock setup. Disconnect the battery press the brake pedal then reconnect.
Kevin
I have totally removed the battery for about and hour while I was getting a new one today that should have done it I think.
Another option then is to check the diagnostic port for blink codes showing a fault then. There\'s a post on here somewhere telling you how to do it if i can find it.
Kevin
Quote from: allstarukHi
After some of the stuttering problems I have been having I thought i\'d cracked it but appartetly not.
The car is hesating and stutterign under throttle, it feels like it could be missfiring, this is an intermitant problem and I could do with an idea of what to look for next as I\'m starting to lose my temper with it.
I thought the problem was intially with the alternator as when I came back to the car a few times the battery was very low and I was getting some feedback throught the car radio.
I have put a diffrent alternator on the car and taken the battery to be tester and it was faulty so replaced that, I then took the car for a drive this evening and the car is still stuttering.
I\'m starting to get really fed up with the car not running more that it is runnng, what should I look at next.
The car is a 94 with a standard engine and ecu. it starts fine and the boost gauge reads a constant vacuum. When it runs it hits full boost and almost full boost on the second turbo (its been doingt this for ages though).
Could it be a plug? Earth Fault, I\'d assum the leads are good as there 10mm magnecour and only 13 months old.
Any Ideas I beinging to get very confused.
Alan
Sounds like possible grounding problem, if so full throttle should cause stuttering more than light throttle. The 10 mm magnecor are race applictaion only and I believe they state that if used on stock applications it will cause problems. Check ht leads, check plugs if they are fouled. Might be worth stating your mods.
Just taken this from rx7owners club tells you how to read the fault codes on a FD
Jump the TEN and GND pins inside the little black Diagnostics box. The box is under the hood on the drivers side, it says Diagnostics right on it. Once you do that turn the key on and watch the Check Engine light, it\'ll blink out the codes. Here\'s a list with instructions that I took from a website:
ECU Error Codes
To cause the ECU to flash the error codes on the MIL, short the TEN and GND terminals on your diagnosis connector, with the ignition off. Then turn your key to the "on" position and count the flashes.
To clear the error codes, disconnect the negative battery cable for at least 20 seconds, and depress the brake pedal. Re-connect the battery cable.
In the "pattern" column, the "L" stands for a long flash, and the "S" stands for a short flash.
Code Pattern Problem Memorized
02 SS Crank angle sensor no NE signal Yes
03 SSS Crank angle sensor no G signal Yes
05 SSSSS Knock sensor open or short circuit Yes
06 SSSSSS Speedometer sensor Yes
09 SSSSSSSSS Water Thermosensor open or short circuit Yes
11 L S Intake Air Thermosensoropen or short circuit Yes
12 L SS Full Range Throttle sensor open or short circuit Yes
13 L SSS Pressure Sensor open or short circuit Yes
14 L SSSS Atmospheric pressure sensor (in ECU)open or short circuit Yes
15 L SSSSS Oxygen Sensor less than .55v for more than 120 sec in feedback mode Yes
16 L SSSSSS EGR Switch open or short circuit Yes
17 L SSSSSSS Feedback System No change for 25 sec in feedback mode Yes
18 L SSSSSSSS Narrow Range Throttle Sensor open or short circuit Yes
20 LL Metering Oil Pump Position Sensor open or short circuit Yes
23 LL SSS Fuel Thermosensor open or short circuit Yes
25 LL SSSSS Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid open or short circuit No
26 LL SSSSSS Metering Oil Pump Stepping Motor
open or short circuit No
27 LL SSSSSSS Metering Oil Pump Sensor open or short circuit or MOP sticking Yes
28 LL SSSSSSSS EGR Solenoid open or short circuit No
30 LLL Split Air Bypass Solenoid open or short circuit No
31 LLL S Releif 1 Solenoid open or short circuit No
32 LLL SS Switching Solenoid open or short circuit No
33 LLL SSS Port Air Bypass Solenoid open or short circuit No
34 LLL SSSS Idle Speed Control Solenoid open or short circuit No
37 LLL SSSSSSS Metering Oil Pump low battery voltage Yes
38 LLL SSSSSSSS Accelerated Warmup System Solenoid open or short circuit No
39 LLL SSSSSSSSS Releif 2 Solenoid open or short circuit No
40 LLLL Purge control Solenoid open or short circuit No
42 LLLL SS Turbo Precontrol Solenoid open or short circuit No
43 LLLL SSS Wastegate control Solenoid open or short circuit No
44 LLLL SSSS Turbo control Solenoid open or short circuit No
45 LLLL SSSSS Charge control Solenoid open or short circuit No
46 LLLL SSSSSS Charge Releif Solenoid open or short circuit No
50 LLLLL Double Throttle control Solenoid open or short circuit No
51 LLLLL S Fuel Pump Relay open or short circuit No
54 LLLLL SSSS Air Pump Relay open or short circuit No
71 LLLLLLL S Front Secondary Injector open circuit No
73 LLLLLLL SSS Rear Secondary Injector open circuit No
76 LLLLLLL SSSSSS Auto Tranny Lockup Signal open or short circuit No
77 LLLLLLL SSSSSSS Auto Tranny Reduce Torque Signal
open or short circuit No
If more than one failure is present, the codes will be indicated in numerical order, lowest number first.
__________________
Kev thats brilliant I will give that a ago after my CBT tomorrow.
Brain I have been running the magnecour 10m leads for over a year with no problems what so ever.
There are few mods, CAT back exhaust, 10mm leads, and a HKS panel filter, none of these mods are new and have all been on there for atleast a year.
Al
Quote from: allstarukKev thats brilliant I will give that a ago after my CBT tomorrow.
Brain I have been running the magnecour 10m leads for over a year with no problems what so ever.
There are few mods, CAT back exhaust, 10mm leads, and a HKS panel filter, none of these mods are new and have all been on there for atleast a year.
Al
What ecu ?
Its running on the stock ecu.
Check air filter is not filthy, I have seen filters than looks good externall but when taken off and looked inside they were pretty black and caused the same issue. Check ends of the ht leads the ends are no flared and it has a losse fitting when connecting to the spark plugs. The fit should be tight and you should here a noticable click when connecting to the plugs. Also check the plugs for condesation build up, look at the end that connects to th plugs you sometimes see green rusty build up, causing the spark to short.
check connectors to batter and alternator, if a tiny bit loose causes the same symptoms. Chek plugs for excessive wear & fouling. Possible fuel starvation problem, fuel filter could be filthy, possible sticky injector. Would be useful if you could have someone put a wideband on while you drive and see what it shows when you get the stuttering.
I\'ve got new plugs on the way and the fuel filter is 8 months old, the air filter has a small patch of oil on it in one corner apprx 3cm2.
Does anyone know any body in the area that\'s got a wideband if I don\'t get anywher that would be purswaded by a few pints to help out?
Also there is a connector the bottom by where the plugs go, that goes to something mounted on the side of the rotors between the plugs, what does this do? If you look at the connector on mine it only had what appears to be one wire coming out is this normal, I\'ll get a photo tomorrow if no one knows what I\'m on about.
Al
Right new developments, charged the new battery last night disconected charger this afternoon and the put a multimeter on the car, the battery was reading 14.1v took if for a spin and it all drives fine.
Put the + end of the meter on the + of the batter tester the - on to all the earth straps I can see and got the same reading 13.6.
Now with the headlights on battery is registering 13.6 the + on the battey and the - on the block and earth straps is giving me 13.39 but when I put the negative on the case of the alternator I;m gettin 14.4 so somewhere in the loom I\'m losing volts.
I\'m fairly sure its not an earth problem but now I\'m not sure where in the loom could be draining the power as I\'m sure this is what causes the car to start stuttering after a while as it never happens after a full charge.
Any ideas?
Um....let me get this right. The lights are on? You\'re registering 13.39 volts at the battery? but the alternator is spitting out 14.4? Well, that sounds correct to me.
The lights have got to be fed from somewhere!
Quote from: allstarukCould it be a plug? Earth Fault, I\'d assum the leads are good as there 10mm magnecour and only 13 months old.
Similar discussion to this came up last night at the pub and comment was made that Magnecor 10s can cause problems unless you have uprated coils and the 8\'s are better for stock situations. Fish might be able to elaborate...
It could also be the ignition coils ageing (3 of them).
If you were running higher boost then it could also be your plugs being to hot for the application (i.e. need 10.5 instead of 9\'s).
If it were overfualling by a huge amount you could be putting out the spark but you\'d really know this as people driving behind you would crash from exhaust poisoning!
Iain
Cracked it, my dad who is condiderably better with electrics had a look and said it was an earth fault so after some carefull tracing it turned out to be the earth connection that goes to the block on the cable between the battery and starter motor,
Thanks Guys
Alan
ah well, so i was wrong, it wasn;t right, it was wrong! Ooh er, confused myself! :p
Well, you live \'n\' learn!
Quote from: allstarukCracked it, my dad who is condiderably better with electrics had a look and said it was an earth fault so after some carefull tracing it turned out to be the earth connection that goes to the block on the cable between the battery and starter motor,
Thanks Guys
Alan
do you have any pictures etc or could you perhaps describe where this is as i have the same problems :(
please....
No worries mate,
First off what are you symoptoms exactly and what have you checked or changed recently?
A
checked every single pipe on the turbo system replacing as i went along. replaced all check valves and checked all circlips and rods.
replaced spark plugs.
replaced the turbo precontrol and wastegate control solonoids on the plenum twice.
compression is 7.8s all round.
no leaks at all or smoke etc.
have redone all earths to an extent and have put on a voltage stabiliser.
changed all couplers for silicon ones, changed intercoler pipes and crossover pipe.
disabled dual throttle
changed ecu to another stock one.
and more but i will add as i remember.
my current symptoms are slight hesitation (both tubbys work now) as boosting gradually worsens after a few runs then will not boost over 0.5 bar.
if i leave the car for a bit and come back the same again
Try the air temp sensor.
May be completely useless but for a £27 part its wortha try... cured my boost issues.
i have thought of that but i think my one is working due to the the way the syptoms have stayed (cant remember why atm but apparently it works) im thinking that its injector related atm?
Have you checked out the wastegate actuator and wastegate?
Also have you checked the main earth is securly bolted to the block this was the main problem with mine It would check out ok on the driveway but while driving it would vibrate and cuase stuttering.
A
just need to go outill be back soon
i have done alot of advice posts but more recently i have just searched for everything similar, i would just love to know finally what is the cause of this final (i hope) issue
i havent checked the wastegate as it is hidden away and i havent taken off the heat shielding etc also since i have bought it i have had a bad earth on it whereby everytime i put something electrical on it would dim slightly or if i put the brake pedal down then it would dim alot.
since then i have sanded and refixed every earth on my aftermarket earthing kit consisting of 6 or 7 points but when i looked at the main engine earth ( the only standard one left i can see that goes into the loom) it was badly oxidised.
i cut some off then some more from near the battery and down by the inner wing spark plug area but although the internal copper was goldish there was some oxidisation all the way down it?
but as i couldnt cut this out of the loom etc if put some gold terminals on and left it? could this cause an issue?
i have a voltage stabiliser and earthing kit but none of which runs into the loom like this one?
anyone a sparky who can help..... :(
i have the car booked in to be looked at but i just dont want to make a 5-6 hour journey and it to turn out to be somthing very simple :(
that way i can spend the money elsewhere :(