Hi all, could anyone point me in the right direction. I need to locate a coolant system diagram.
Some of you might of seen an earlier thread of mine, this is all to do with that. I\'am trying to figure out why my system will not hold the 0.9 required.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Thank Stu
When you fill it back up, do you fill all the way to the top of the filler cap, or do you fill up till it just covers the coolant level sensor? I ask, only that if you fill up to the brim, the coolant system will dump the excess, but what it actually does, is dump more than the excess. So by the time you start the car again, you have got less coolant than last time. I kept doing this, until i was informed to just fill up to a little bit over the level sensor, and no more.
HTH
Quote from: nikpWhen you fill it back up, do you fill all the way to the top of the filler cap, or do you fill up till it just covers the coolant level sensor? I ask, only that if you fill up to the brim, the coolant system will dump the excess, but what it actually does, is dump more than the excess. So by the time you start the car again, you have got less coolant than last time. I kept doing this, until i was informed to just fill up to a little bit over the level sensor, and no more.
HTH
I used to fall into that trap myself until Clive made me aware of it, but thats not whats causing the problem now. This coolant system is the vain of my life at mo! I\'ve got a real horrible feeling that a apex seal may have gone, even though engine only rebuilt Aug \'03.
Basicaly what is happening is - fill system up to required levels, pressure test system (which should stay at 0.9), it then drops to 0.8. So thought prehaps AST gone again, although was replaced in Aug last year. When pressure tested earlier tonight the pressure dropped right down to 0.5 and could hear the pressure leaking from the coolant system. The sound was coming from around the turbo area and small leak too.
So have been trying to locate a diagram for the coolant system online tonight, which is proving little harder than i thought it would be.
Stu
Hope this may help
Brilliant diagrams, thanks hopefully they should show all the pipe work. just hope it\'s a bit warmer tomorrow weather wise. Will post and let ya all know how i got on.
Also in my search how found few usefull sites, will post in new thread.
Cheers Stu
Thats not quite the complete diagram. There\'s a coolant feed from the back of the water pump housing to the throttle body assembly, and there\'s also a feed to the turbo\'s too. If you can evidence of an an external coolant leak, that\'s good, cos that means it\'s probably not an engine water seal, so hopefully no rebuild required.
Oh, and when the coolant system lets go, it\'s not the apex seals that go, it\'s the water seals around the rotor housings.
Quote from: nikpOh, and when the coolant system lets go, it\'s not the apex seals that go, it\'s the water seals around the rotor housings.
I stand corrected, haha. i\'ve isolated the leak to the rear of the turbos. Just can\'t see the exact location of it, as that area is packed with stuff.
If any1 has a diagram of the coolant system for the turbos that would be great, or if they could talk me through it. Thanks again to Hamc for the diagram.
Cheers Stu
Quote from: Stu.WilsonI stand corrected, haha. i\'ve isolated the leak to the rear of the turbos. Just can\'t see the exact location of it, as that area is packed with stuff.
If any1 has a diagram of the coolant system for the turbos that would be great, or if they could talk me through it. Thanks again to Hamc for the diagram.
Cheers Stu
Not sure if its the same as the 20b turbo pack but i would imagine it is. Theres a metal pipe runs behind the turbo\'s with a branch so it supplies both turbo\'s it joins the turbo pack via a banjo fitting you probably need to tighten these and/or replace the copper washers that give the seal.
Kevin
Quote from: kev-yorksNot sure if its the same as the 20b turbo pack but i would imagine it is. Theres a metal pipe runs behind the turbo\'s with a branch so it supplies both turbo\'s it joins the turbo pack via a banjo fitting you probably need to tighten these and/or replace the copper washers that give the seal.
Kevin
That\'s the pipe i need to do, the metal rail one. It looks a b#*ch of a job to get to though, i guess i have to remove the Y pipe thing from the turbos to get to it. That\'s the diagram i need though.
Cheers Stu
Found this pic of the twin turbo pack which you might find usefull......
http://photobucket.com/albums/c321/MillSpeed/?action=view¤t=dd_32.jpg
There the ones don\'t know if you\'ll be able to get them in situ they are a pig of a job to get to in a Cosmo so i can only imagine what sort of job it is in a FD. May be quicker to lift out the engine.
Kevin
This job looks like it\'s gunna be fun! haha, was going to tackle today, but put off due to bad weather. looks like i\'m doing public transport 2mo morning!
Unfortunatley do not have the equipment to remove engine, so looks i\'m going to be removing parts of the car to get to it. With bit of luck can try to access it from underneath.
Once again thanks for everyones help and will give progress report, i\'m just hoping this solves the coolant pressure loss problem. If not then will be back to square one.
One last question, can i use coolant piping from any car part shop or does it have to be a special brand?
Cheers Stu
If its the rubber hose then use any you can get. The steel pipe has brazed joints and copper washers for the seals. Good luck with doing it in situ.
Kevin
Stu, get the proper Mazda hose.
Do you want to do the job again in a few months????
They can be done without removing the engine. I cant remember fully, but I "THINK" I had to remove the Y pipe.
ay up stu,
send me a pm of your number and i will ring you and have a chat.
you can do it in situ.
i took all of that area apart yesterday on someones car mate.
needless to say wear you \'PATIENT\' boots... tis a knuck biting Beeehatch of a job.
nick
Quote from: MartinyStu, get the proper Mazda hose.
Do you want to do the job again in a few months????
They can be done without removing the engine. I cant remember fully, but I "THINK" I had to remove the Y pipe.
Ah, just re-read your post.
I replaced the rubber hoses only, not the metal bit. I have read on other fourms where people have had that metal pipe split.
Quote from: MartinyThey can be done without removing the engine. I cant remember fully, but I "THINK" I had to remove the Y pipe.
Yer it\'s just the rubber pipe matey, but thanks for the warning. When you remove the Y pipe do ya have to replace any gasket\'s?
I\'m off to attempt it right now! wish me luck (it\'s bloody freezing outside too!! haha)
Stu
Edited -
Right just got back inside now, 4 hours later. I just couldn\'t get anything to go right. The leak is still a stealth leak, looks as though is the lower of the two rubber pipes and is not sitting correct (can\'t say for sure as visability very poor in that area, i\'m not attempting to remove the turbo\'s.) Looks as though water has been leaking in that area for some time, which would explaint the loss of water. Am hoping it is the rubber pipe, but if not will have to take to a pro to locate and fix the problem.
So just to let ya know car is in bit\'s and will be continued on thursday night.
P.S also managed to break this part (see pic). So if anyone has spare for sale please let me know.
Cheers Stu.
At last, i have managed to fix the leak. It was the lower of the two turbo coolant hose\'s. So that all done now! what i B#~ch of a job though, i pitty anyone who ever attemps to do this in situ!
Pressure tested the system and it dropped back done to 0.5 though, upon further inspection looks as though the AST is letting pressure out! so will replace the cap and test further. Hopefully this should fix the problem for good and then shall be up Brooklands!
So just wanted to say another big THANKS and hope to see you all up RSIII in the summer.
Cheers Stu
Whooo hooo ! At least it wasnt an internal leak, eh?
Well done, and yes, see you at Brooklands.
Stu-- just picked up on this thread. The bottom rubber pipe you have changed did you use the genuine Mazda part??????????
If not you are tempting fate. I had the same problem as you and I changed both the top and bottom rubber pipes. They are both pre-formed, the reason for this is that they are at such an angle that if you use a piece of normal pipe you cannot help but put a bend of some type in them.This may not be visable at first but the heat from the twins in that area causes it, that is why the mazda ones ( both only cost about a fiver ) are pre-bent. This therefore allows the collant to flow unrestricted and cools the turbos ( bottom one, top one goes off via metal pipe to your throttle body ) You should also have noticed that they have a rubber protective sleeve over them, make sure you re-fit that sleeve as well, as it is the extra protection required from the heat of the twins. If you have used normal pipe and put that sleeve back on you will 100% have put a bend in the pipe you used. CHANGE THEM BOTH FOR MAZDA PARTS.
I also found that the small rubber pipe that connects that top metal pipe to the throttle body needed replacement as well. You cannot see it and it is only when you remove the TB that you find it. Again use the Mazda part. ( pence )
I further found another leak from the Thermostate housing, I removed the housing and discovered that the thermostate was surrounded in it\'s seating hole with lots of crusty gunk ( causing a small leakage that you would never see as the water under pressure forced it\'s way between the sealing surfaces). I cleaned it all out and re-seated the thermostate and re-fitted. No more leaks.
I know this is the last thing you want to hear mate but there is only one way to do a job on these engines and it\'s the correct way. Yes it means more work but at the end you know you have done it properly. HTH. :wave
Quote from: WarthogStu-- just picked up on this thread. The bottom rubber pipe you have changed did you use the genuine Mazda part??????????
I unfortunatley have not used mazda parts, i have used off the self coolant piping. When i first offered the piping up i noticed a massive kink! so what i did was shaped the pipe i cut, to the pipe i removed. This was done with a heat gun and then left for 3 days tied to the original pipe to take it\'s shape.
so when i placed the pipe back on, on thursday night it was a near perfect fit. I must admit this has been on my mind since then and will probley be replacing this pipe and the top one. As soon as i have a full day off, no more night work on the car. It\'s to bloody cold!! lol.
Good new is with regard to the other pipes, i.e. tb top and tb little bottom one, i have also replaced these pipes (Mazda parts). Must admit i was losing coolant on the little bottom one, which i didn\'t even know was there till i took tb apart!
All i need now is to replace the AST cap and then pressure should be restored!
Thanks for the info \'Warthog\' and shall be looking to replace these pipes.
Cheers Stu
No probs mate all in a good cause. One less engine that can go bang. :WaveBye
Now its my turn.
Took the engine cover off yesterday to fix a few things, and found some coolant lying in there. :-(
Good news - its leaking from a big Rad hose, so its probably just a loose clamp
:-)))
Quote from: MartinyNow its my turn.
Took the engine cover off yesterday to fix a few things, and found some coolant lying in there. :-(
Good news - its leaking from a big Rad hose, so its probably just a loose clamp
:-)))
I see i\'ve set a curse on ya then, haha. Hope it is just a clamp.
Just one more quick question - i know the AST cap come standard at 0.9 and that all 1.3 where recalled. But i read on here that some one is running with a 1.1, is it worth replacing the cap with this? and if so where would ya get it?
Cheers stu
D-O-N-\'-T. D-O I-T.
Simple answer, looked into it not worth the chance, Mazda tried it and it cooked engines thats why they went back to 0.9 so take a hint from them and leave well alone.
Your call. :2Confused
Yer, it was just a thought. I\'l stick with the 0.9. Can\'t go wrong, no point doing a sunday roast with my engine!
Cheers Mate
Little update - Two Mazda turbo coolant pipe\'s £14 and new AST cap £18. Lovely!
are the pipes that you replaced the ones located directly bellow the filler housing next to the airpump? if so do you still have the part numbers? any one............