Hi
Just a quick one sorry if its in the wrong place but I may have the chance of a free car, a friend of a friend has asked me to look at a peugeot 106 1litre,
It starts and runs for a while then cuts out, while it was going throught its MOT the CAT got so hot it started glowing red, so the cat and lambda sensor were changed. This is suggesting to me that it could be runnign lean.
Basically its going to get towed if its not moved sharpish, does anyone have any ideas what to start looking for. I\'m not to familier with these cars.
Alan
its free but french - leave it alone :Giggle
How very constructive, I\'ve just towed it back to mine anyway.
Any one else?
oooer, a thousand apologies.............
had a similar prob with my micra. would run ok until warmed up and would then just cut out & die. left to cool down and it would start ok.
when hot i found i had no spark at the plugs, ok when cold.
Inbuilt condensor thingymebob in the distributor was kaput.
scrapyard charged £15 for a replacement and its been runing ok for the last 20k miles
maybe the cats collapsed internally causing a blockage which resulted in it glowing red hot? clutching at straws..........
Quote from: andyroseoooer, a thousand apologies.............
Sorry mate, having a bit of a bad day. Got drenched and cold.
Went to look at it today and I couldn\'t even get it to start, from what he told me it sounds somthing similar to your condesor problem.
Its had a brand new cat and lambda sensor, 4 tyres and driveshaft, it was MOT\'d last november, he drove it home and the when the bloke came round later in the afternoon to buy it and it wouldn\'t start. One of his mates has looked at it but couldn\'t get it to start so he gave it to me as the concil were about to tow it.
Its done 7 miles since the mot in november.
Anyway it was free so it owe\' s me nothing yet.
Cheers Al
Does It Sound Like Its Trying To Fire / Cough Splutter Ect. Can You Smell Petrol Under The Bonnet. Take Out The Plugs And Try To Explain What Condition The Tips Are In- Sooty/wet/ Dry/grey Ect. Does The Car Turn Over Slowly/ Very Fast.
I had the same problem on a Rover 216, and it was a problem with the spark igniter in the distibutor. It would start and run ok until warm then cut out and wouldnt start until cool again. Also on mine the rev counter would also flick about before cutting out.
It had a flat battery when I got there but now its charged it turns over well it just doesn\'t catch and doesn\'t even try to.
Does it have a \'crash switch\'???
My girlfriend has a 106 and had a similar problem, it was fixed in 2 minutes. Look to see if it has a small black plastic/rubber button about 2" square in the back right hand corner as you look at the engine bay from the front. If it does try pressing the top to reset it and make sure it is fixed in an upright postion.
My girlfriends had broken off the fixing and was at a 45 degree angle and so this had cut off all fuel to the engine, so it would turn over but not catch Hope that helps
Check for spark.
Remove a plug lead, put a piece of wire in the plug lead and put that wire abour 5 mm or so from a metal part of the engine, then turn the starter. You should see a spark jumping the gap.
Once its fixed, sell it for £50 then get a Mazda !
Hi there, From the first bit of info, sound like the cat was blocked or had collapsed, That is why they will get red hot through restricted flow, you may have found the car would have no power ( not that it had a lot to start with!!!!) so the cat replacement was good, lambda replacement not a bad idea but not necessally essential. the second problem I need some more info. Is the car efi, or carb. now the fact it will not start is actually easier to fix than the running fault. If it is EFI tell me and I will run you through flashing the MIL, to get the codes from the ecu. you will need an LED test light, some wire on peogeot and citroen\'s and a bit of car know how to do this. find the green 2 pin connecter which If I remember right is down by one of the headlights on 106\'s and will have nothing connected to it
If it is carb look in the direction of the coil pack, check wires and conections, as as stated above check for a spark, if there is a spark, then try the fuel system, pump, filter, carb, choke mechanism, try pooring a little fuel in the carb and see if it will go, all the old tricks. main thing is, start with an open mind, check all the obvious things first, dont jump to any conclutions untill you have checked everything.. Good luck
All good advice the first thing I\'m gonna check is that the CAM belt hasn\'t jumped a notch on the pulley this seems to be quite common on 106\'s, I\'m pretty sure its a carb.
if its got a cat and lambda its e.f.i isnt it? even if its single point.
if youve used the above info to check for a spark(useing a plug sounds better than a bit of wire)you could check for fuel, see if you have any at the throttle body( carb if im wrong)
How would i tell if its carb or throttle body, if you take of the air filter looking into the top it has what looks like a carb that says "webber" on it, but then it appears to have a lambda sensor and an ECU, now I\'m lost.
Al
true Jon, but only if you have a known good plug lying around.
what year car is it?? early 106\'s were carb. does it have a MIL(engine management light) light on the dash when the ignition is on. spfi units look very similar to carbs but will not have choke butterflys, only throttle ones..the efi system will be bosch, or magneti marelli.
Its a 94, it has a box at the front of the engine bay on the left that is by magneti marelli so I take it that it is fuel injection then?
If you look down by the headlamp, I think rh find the green 2 pin connecter, I will talk you through flashing the codes out of the ECU , if you get the numbers, it will point you in the right direction if it is an efi fault..
Is this the connector that is just behing the passanger side headlanp that just clips onto what looks like a blanking plate on the inner of the wheel arch.
Geez, shouldnt we check for spark first? We are jumping straight into Cambelts and error codes, and we havent tested the simplest thing yet?
Is there fuel in the tank !! ?
There is a fuel in the tank, and I had a quick go at starting it while waiting for a friend last night and then had a look took the top of the throttle body and I can smell petrol so I belive its gettng fuel.
The first think I\'m going to do is see if there is a spark by plugging a timing light in?
Just stick a plug on the end, dont mess too much, as long as it is earthed then if there is no spark a good fat blue one other wise it can get blown away by the compression, make sure the plug is a good one, new ones are only a couple of quid it wont harm to get a set anyway, then you are a little futher on, do check all the leads, check you have fuel, which it sounds like you have checked but it might not be the right amount, Also when you pull the codes that will direct you in the general direction if there are any logged ,it only takes a couple of minutes to do. remember though, these do not always tell the whole truth as something that is not covered by the ecu can make the system think it is something else at fault. once we have all the info then we can start testing individual parts.. Check the crank sensor connection, and the senser for dirt, it is either on the front pulley or onto the flywheel. also phone a scrap yard to see if they have the same car in for a little forward thinking into getting parts to try.. If my memory serves me right the connecter should be 2 pin green with 1 and 2 on it. I cannot remember if it is connected to a blank.. Just use the mind set that you are starting the engine tht has just been fitted, work through everything. Good luck
if its a single point injector then it will have a two wire loom to the injector wich will be top centre of the throttle body(carb). the single point injection system is very simular to a carb but the needles are replaced with the injector, this is because the engine needs to be able to adjust the fuel to adapt to the lambda readings and this cant be done with needles as the ecu has nothing to control the needles are fixed holes in a tube. webber do make several single point injection systems(sorry did).
It appears to be a single point injector, with the cover off the throttle and cranking you can see petrol going in, I have pulled a plug and it is getting a spark.
What do you recon next, how do you check the ecu codes.
Al
Right the latest developments,
It started, after taking lost of things appart and cleaning them up and just generally checking they were plugged in we thought that we\'d give it a go starting it.
It started after about 40 seconds of turinng over and only on full throttle, i kept it at full throttle for a further min and it was struggling to stay running after about a min it started to stabilise.
It then ran and reved freely althought I suspect it may be runnign on three cylinders, I took it 100 metres down the rd and back to find the brakes barely work. Once I got back it the got chuggy and died.
It will start on full throttle after about 30 secs and runs rough, you can see the block shaking it also dies after about a min.
Where should I check next can someone explain in very simple terms how to read the fault codes, there are two plugs that go to nothing, 1 green which clips to a blanking plate of the ECU by the drivers side headlamp and 1 brown which clips to blanking plate on the passange wheel arc liner. Bot have 2 wires runnign to them.
Thanks
Ala
It is the green one that you want, You need an LED lest light, or an Led. in pin number 2 of the connecter, put the crock clip end (-) of the led lamp, also connect a piece of wire in there with it as well. this wire should reach to the drivers seat of the car, Then put the other end (+)of the led test light to the + of the battery, make sure it is all connected securely. Go the the drivers seat turn on the ignition, earth the wire you have for up to 5 sec.s then take it off, the engine management light should flash one long flash and 2 short ones, Long flash for the 10;s short flashes for the units which will mean 12 that is the start of the test. it may repeat this 2 or 3 times for each fault code. make a note of the flashes then let me know the codes and I will look them up for you. so 12 is the start of the test, then when you get to the codes you might get 3 long flashes and 6 short ones,= code 36. there may be more than one. see how you go..good luck
have you found any wires to carb?injection ?
It appears to be single point injection, although I can\'t see why you would put the injector before the butterflies in the throttlebody.
Jon how do you mean have you found any wires to the carb/injection?
Al
Alban1973
Which pin on the green connector is pin 2, I\'ve made the LED and cables I\'d like to know which pin is pin 2 as this techinic invoves shorting it out.
I\'ve worked out which pin it is and after performing the ecu fault code test it says that there are no faults.
After changing the plugs and generally cleaning everything up it starts easily and runs quite smoothly after letting it warm up, it revs to about 4k but seems to stop there, its not taxed so I can\'t take it out on the rd and test drive it.
Does this engine have a rev limiter when there is no load on the engine?
Any suggestions are welcome.
Alan