mmm ok some of u have seen my white t88 fd not yet registered, was on way back from mot, car starts fine idles nice no smoke, prior to what am going to describe,.
i was driving back about 70mph and deiced to boost it for the first time ever, and guess what car just started to run poorly no smoke so just limped home, good job was just around corner.
now car starts up fine but sounds like its on 3 cylinders ?? but there is no smoke what so ever?
i have checked for boost pipes etc etc but al seem fine.
have i shagged it car has 44km on it with a rebuild already done.
compression test is the way forward to be honest :(
get a normal comp tester and use that - 20 min job and it will put your mind at ease
if it limped home - the ECU might have gone into limp mode - although not sure if the FC has that ability ??
sorry for not really helping :(
Stu
car is an fd3s, just started car again and fires up first time again no smoke but sounds like on 3 cylinders ???
map sensor seems to have pipe connected to it also.
Do you have a boost gauge fitted if so is it a steady reading or jumping about?
Kevin
when i lost 2 tips car started fairly easy from cold but best described as a bit chuggy and engine was shaking.no huge amount of smoke and was still reading 500 on the vac reading on boost gge.but as soon as it got warm vac reading wld drop to about 300 and flutter and car wld idle hunt as well.if u have a boost gge this ill give a very good indication of whats happening as if boost gge is fluttering it doesnt sound good.cant begin to describe how gutted i felt
mr. vielside can you clarify what fluttering you got? between????????? 100 -600??????????????????
Quote from: kev-yorksDo you have a boost gauge fitted if so is it a steady reading or jumping about?
Kevin
yer boost guage seems to be ok i have not really drove it as it doesnt sound good on idle it wont rev past 0 boost just sitting at about 500 -600
You wouldnt necessarily see smoke if it has thrown a seal. An easy way to tell is to remove the front and rear lower (leading) spark plugs, one at a time. Put your hand by the plug hole and get someone to turn the engine over, You should feel even puffs of air, if theyre not even, you have lost compression on that rotor.
remember to pull the egi fuse if you can and make sure the plug lead is well out of the way and make sure its not near the chassis.......... oh and i wouldn\'t smoke while your doing it either.....
the car started and still starts every time and ran so so smooth till i tested it on boost, now it sounds rough but no smoking and it still starts with no problems. i have disconnected battery to see if it that does it ??
oppps - yeah FD has a limp mode
what ECU you got on there ??
yep on start from cold started fine as compression is allways better when cold and vac reading wld be around 500 but as soon as idle dropped down when car came off idle enrichment.the car wld vibrate more and vac reading wld go from 100-500 and wldnt settle at all.if i drove the car it wld be fine just lumpy at 50-60mph and gge wld just flutter at around 450 but as soon as u lifted off it wld drop -100/-300/-200/-400 and this was because i had lost compression over 2 seals.1 cracked and one broke away..the boost gge givesthe best indication as u know what it wld sit at before and steady but after was all over the place..if a vac hose was off i dont think it wld be as dramatic a fluctuation
if ur boost gge is sitting steady at 500-600 with no movement then it is highly unlikely u have lost a tip as on each cycle the gge shld register the loss of compression.if it is idling on vac at 5-600 and no fluttering i wld look for a vac pipe come off somewhere/poss a prob with map sensor but doubt it.if car is warm it wld also struggle to start.it is still poss u have only split a tip but unless u were really caning the car cant see why.mine was a mixture of secondary injectors not matched and less flow in one and a hole in my vac pipe leading to the fuel pressure regulator
not caning car was first time i planted the right foot, has f con v pro
Jurgen if the engine was only rebuilt 44KM ago then its still running in and not mapped to run on boost just yet ? So you may well have damaged the tips ?
My car went into limp mode when stood too long in traffic and too high intake temps when trying to boost, if you were already on the M-way and intake was low then it seems you may well have thrown a tip.
Gurj
does he mean 44k miles........??
car has 44km now and was rebuild about 15km ago, i just came of roundabout and planted foot down ??
how do i take it off limp mode ???
disconnect the battery, hold your foot on the brake for about 20 seconds.....
then reconnect the battery. Putting your foot on the brake just uses the remaining current in the system
still the same i disconnect batt for 30 mins :(
I think we may have an oiled up sparkplug. Mind you, doesnt explain no boost?
Pull out the sparkplugs, and even get a new set if possible. And while they\'re out, you can do the "feel for even pulses" test.
the re set for ecu is only for a standard ecu i think..jurgen has a f con pro so dont think that wld have a limp mode or reset without dumping the map
well guys here is pic of car below, am not going to take any chances i have cheked everything i can and again the car started fine this morning with no smoke and the boost idles ok????
so i have arranged for pip to get car asap via trailer and if its not major or major ish, it will be getting water injection and a few extra mods but car is well modded too.
i will also be replacing the hks f con pro ecu as originally planned.
the car would of been road registered this time next week, oh well jusgt have to wait and see now.
cheers for advice
Sounds exactly like what happened to my Car last week, as it came up on full boost there was a little pop/bang and then it lost power and sounded real rough...
:(
hope it\'s nothing too major
sounds like what happened to my car when I warped the seals coz of the oil injection going up the spout.
It was running rough on idle like your describing
one of my pipes to boost sensor unit had melted away so am thinking this may have made overboost and possibly shagged a seal ??
lets wait and seewhat pip finds, the car still starts no bother and no smoke.
this really spoiled my weekend as the car would of been on road next saturday
Quote from: BlitzBoysounds like what happened to my car when I warped the seals coz of the oil injection going up the spout.
It was running rough on idle like your describing
what did u do get full rebuild ?
Quote from: rx7veilsidewhen i lost 2 tips car started fairly easy from cold but best described as a bit chuggy and engine was shaking.
Sorry to hijack the thread... but Paul, when did this happen... is this the car you bought off Joel and had a fairly recent rebuild from Reworx?
i had a similar problem which no one could find. turned out to be the coils breaking down. they tested ok but had a weak spark.
Quote from: 7ForLifei had a similar problem which no one could find. turned out to be the coils breaking down. they tested ok but had a weak spark.
were your symptoms same as mine ??? and also who diagnosed your problem
had no power but was able to drive it, came out of its mot like it, was like it was running on one rotor. i just started changing random parts till it worked. If your compresion test comes back ok then it would be something to try.
just moving this to the appropriate section :)
hi lawrence.yep that was mine(ex joel car).the car was loosing boost so i took it out for a run giving it some stick to try and get the boost up..anyway seems the boost was leaking out of the vac pipe leading to the fuel pressure regulator so boost was hitting 1 bar but fuel pressure wasnt rising accordingly and with one of the secondary injectors not flowing as much as the other one of the rotors ran lean and i lost one tip and the other was damaged.i would advise anyone running these cars that at the first sign of trouble dont self diagnose and secondly get their injectors taken out matched and flow tested
double post oops
Try this,
Remove The EGI Fues, Then take the Top plug from the Rear rotor out, Spin the engine and listen to the noise it makes (every Psh noise should sound the same) when you\'ve done that put the Plug back and Take the Front top one out then turn over. Again Listen for the Psh noises, they should all sound even and the same Volume.
If ether the Front or back has One loud Psh then two Quiet you have lost an Apex, with doing both rotors you can compare the Two i.e. if a seal is missing and there is No Compression at all on two baths it will have the loud Psh noise but the spacing between will be greater than the other Rotor.
This is a Side of the Road test to see if its worth checking vac lines etc.
am no taking any chances with car off she goes in trailer tomz morning :3gears-rh
well due to the split boost pipe from boost sensor car has overboosted and damged a tip :( .
hopefull i may just get away with replacing seals