OK, so the weather here down South is pretty crap but nevertheless I got off two pics for those who may be interested?
http://www.bsdninjas.co.uk/car/rx-7-1.jpg
http://www.bsdninjas.co.uk/car/rx-7-2.jpg
It\'s still got to go back to RoTechniks to get the new rear roof portion fitted so for the moment there\'s still Gaffa tape on the roof :(
I\'ve also attempted to fit the self-powered sub under the rear parcel shelf only to notice that I\'d need to play with some MDF just to get it to fit :mad: so I may build an enclosure for a proper sub instead. Nevermind...
Anyway, while hunting for the location for the sub I came across these two connectors which are hiding on the passenger side of the car:
http://www.bsdninjas.co.uk/car/rx-7-3.jpg
So I had a go at fitting the head unit instead and came across the following bowl of SpaghBol:
http://www.bsdninjas.co.uk/car/rx-7-4.jpg
:Grrr I really, really wish that some people would keep their fingers from car electrics. This pretty much looks like I\'ll now spend part of next Saturday soldering in a proper ISO connector because some a*hole was too cheap to buy a Mazda -> ISO adapter when fitting the carp Sony HU that was in the car. The really funny part was that radio reception pretty much was non-existing which was quickly traced to the fact that with all the cable bodging, someone had forgotten to hook up the power cable to the electric antenna :D. Oh well, at least I get a chance to do it properly then...
I can\'t wait for the rain to stop, I tell you...
Oh, and if the hoarding brigade by any chance has a couple of the trim clips for the rear carpet left over, I\'d be interested in them!
i COULD be wrong - but is the block connector for the headrest speakers ????
its a fair old size but doesnt look familiar ??
where are they on the passenger side - behind the seat ??
They\'re in the "footwell" underneath the spare wheel. Almost hidden behind the drain tube.
They somehow look "audio" to me and they do look like they\'re part of the original loom.
hummm could be for the headrest speakers to be honest .... i need to check the boot of the cab - mine is in there - i can check pins for you !
you have a PM aswell :D
Stu
Would be nice if you could. No hurry, won\'t be doing anything to it during the week anyway!
Oh, and you\'ve got a PM as well...
pics are here ... god im tooo nice for my own good :D
oooohhhh looks like i could be right - your bill is in the post :D :D :D
Ah, so they\'re putting a separate amp back there for the headrest speakers then?
At least that\'s that cleared up and I don\'t have to hunt for some elusive part :god.
And regarding the bill, I\'ll put the shredder under the mailbox if you don\'t mind :rollin
i think its all the jiggery pokery for the front switches !!
happy to help out matey
only thing you need to do now is find where the amp is !! LOL
If there is an amp anywhere in there, chances are they accidentally disconnected it when they installed the crap headunit I got the car with.
The SpaghBol wiring has certain "features" that suggest they may have run an amped setup before but the crap door speakers suggest otherwise. Unless this was the world\'s most clueless installer. Which may explain certain features on the wiring :Hammer like the junction made by breaking off the blade of an uninsulated crimp connector and just using the crimping part...
ah the joys of rewiring head units !!
we did the better halfs rover
gas soldering iron and a 9v battery and a multimeter
found the 12v perm and switched with the multimeter and used the 9v battery to work out what speaker was which
i VERY nearly cut mine to bits to get a stock ISO adaptor in there - wasnt prepared to pay £17.99 at halfords - then spotted that CPC do them for £4.49 - and its about 20 mins away - nice and cheap :D :D :D
im confused...looking at your wiring pic - you have the coin holders - surely there should be the panel there for doing the speaker volume in the head rest ??????
does yours ACTUALLY have the panel for it ??? , thats why you might have the loose wiring - UK models might not have come with it ( mine a jap car so i have it )
just a thought ????
Well, down here the local neon\'d Nova hangout (aka Halfords) flogs you the bare ISO plug for 13.99. Bargain, so I bought one...
Car doesn\'t have the headrest speakers so it doesn\'t have a volume control for them either. There\'s a blanking plate on the cubby hole carrier (single DIN slot) that looks like it would take said volume control though.
I hope it\'s not as wet next weekend as I don\'t fancy running out an extension cable to the car and fiddling about in there with electrickery while the rain\'s horizontal.
do you guys know the part number or place i can get an iso lead?
Halfrauds used to stock them, so I guess any half way decent car electrical place will stock them, they are common with a few other cars. Just go in and ask :yes
i will do but difficult because of christmas and the weather etc so i wanted to make life easier with a part code but having trouble finding it at the mo.
cheers fella
I got those plugs ,same place as you say, but nothing to plug into, according to wiring diag, the amp is under the centre console, in between the seats,
Is that a uk spec t2, cos it looks so diff to mine :)
Mick
If you\'re talking about my white convertible, yes, that\'s a UK model.
QuoteIt\'s still got to go back to RoTechniks to get the new rear roof portion fitted so for the moment there\'s still Gaffa tape on the roof
Your car appears pretty much identical to mine - including the Gaffa tape!
How much is the new hood rear section costing, if you don\'t mind me asking? Are they fitting it?
The rear roof section has been fitted a couple of months after I bought it - can\'t really say how much it was as it was included in the price of the car. AFAIR they don\'t fit it themselves but use a trimmer who does all their hoods for them. Did a decent job.
I vaguely seem to remember new hoods tend to be in the 750+ range if you\'re using the Mazda one (which I had). I think it\'s possible to get a Mohair hood fitted instead (which would eliminate the designed-in tearability of the hood to a certain extent) but I doubt they\'re cheaper in any way as you\'d have to recover the middle section as well.
Tee hee - mine came with gaffer as well !
Watch out for the new roof splitting on the C pillar mounts - They pull apart at the seam there. I tried a large piece of inner tube repair internally with some black silicon on the outside - lasted a little while, but with constant use of the hood - it\'s still too tight and inflexible.
Need to design some \'saggy\' pockets to fit in there. Talk to Moonwrap about this - she had the same problem as well.
The guy who does the hoods at Rotechnics is a dab hand at leather repair as well - he repaired my drivers seat and re stuffed the door side bolster on the seat - excellent job.
Good luck with the hood and stereo - car looks good - I remember seeing that one their.
Quote from: ProfWatch out for the new roof splitting on the C pillar mounts - They pull apart at the seam there. I tried a large piece of inner tube repair internally with some black silicon on the outside - lasted a little while, but with constant use of the hood - it\'s still too tight and inflexible.
Need to design some \'saggy\' pockets to fit in there. Talk to Moonwrap about this - she had the same problem as well.
As if by magic! ;)
Mine had very small tears on the seam, perhaps an inch long. As I\'m a clothes designer and wanted to keep the car original I thought it can\'t be too hard to find a solution...
I knew that whatever was used needed to remain flexible and needed to be bonded inside and out to be completely waterproof. So I came up with the idea of repairing (as later discussed with Prof above) with pieces of flexible rubber from an inner tube inside and filled flush on the outside with black silicone. It works very well. It\'s quite fiddly and you do need to take some of the interior trim out to gain access between the inner and outer roof skins. The roof fabric was specifically developed by Mazda, but it\'s like many PVC\'s used in upholstery and has a bonded fabric backing inside, so you need to abrase that thoroughly with dry wet\'n\'dry inside to allow the rubber solution glue to bond properly.
However I\'m pretty sure that Mazda did appreciate that the original roofs had a design flaw and changed the design slightly. I\'m not sure precisely how as I\'ve never analysed a replacement roof section, but I believe that it has more room in the area that splits (which is a bonded seam), because when the mechanism unfolds the roof it needs more room than when it is in the up position.
So on an original roof, other than creating just a basic inner patch, your patch needs to be a small gusset (about 1cm at it\'s widest point) behind the split seam to allow for give. When the roof is down the seam is allowed to open slightly and when it is up it closes together completely. :D
Hope this helps. It does work, is almost invisible if done skillfully and it just requires routine maintenance to check that the silicone sealant edge is still sound from time to time on the outside of the roof.
I think that one of the real problems that you would have though is removing the glue from the gaffer tape if someone has put that on :(
Lynn
:WaveBye
Thanks, someone should probably try and add that to the second gen FAQ, if there is such a beast.
Moonwrap, if you happen to come to the Old Skool meet you\'re welcome to have a look at my convertible\'s roof as it had a rear section fitted earlier this year and I\'d expect that to be the current Mazda one.