I\'ve only just got my RX. And I can\'t seem to get it past 3500 revs in 3rd gear (not tried it properly in other gears just yet). The car feels like it\'s pulling back, like there\'s some sort of restriction.
Now, there\'s a Blitz electronic boost control, which I need to find out how to use (will hopefully try to dig up some instructions or something online), but it beeps just before it pulls back, so I\'m guessing that this may be involved in this?
I know it\'s a bit vague at the moment, but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Oh, yeah. It pulls perfectly & hard up till then. I\'ve not kept my foot down after this, just in case it could cause any damage.
Try turning the boost controller off and see if that makes a difference. Do you have a seperate bost guage?
Yeah. I have a boost guage, too.
I need to find some instructions for the boost controller, really. It says "off" on the screen, but it still beeps and sometimes the display changes red as some kind of warning.
Maybe I should check how to completely switch it off first!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry if I\'m being a bit of a newbie. But it\'s my first foray into this stuff! :confused:
EDIT:
To give a better explanation of what\'s going on. Basically, on hard accelleration, when it reaches around 3500 revs, the whole engine feels like it has some sort of restriction, and starts to pull back and there\'s a "buzzing" (????? not the best explanation of the sound!!!) noise. Everything is fine if I change gear or ease off the gas. And it has no problem pulling up to 3500.
But I\'m not sure if the boost controller has anything to do with this. One of my mates said it could be the secondary injectors, or could be through some modifications which would need checking.
There\'s a Pivot Air Flow Conditioner, which I\'ve been told is best left either switched off or set to "0". but I doubt that would be the cause.
hi
dj
i had similar type of problem on mine found that it was earth strap on exhaust close to cat, if the earth strap is broken then the wrong signals get sent to ecu and cause probs due to the lambda sensor on manifold see if its that mate if not it might be what this web site is on about take alook at this web page got usefull info on there like 3000 revs hesitation fix
http://www.fd3s.net/3k_hesitation.html
let us know how you get on
i might be able to help further as i am a technician....
Thanks Tyson! I\'ll have a look at that and check out some of those suggestions on that site.
Cheers for the info! :Thumbs-up
A freind of mine had exactly the same problem in his 200sx, the car would accelerate fine up 3000 rpm, then.... nothing. The car seemed to back off power and the rev needle wouldn\'t go over 3000rpm. We had a good look in the engine bay at his house, and it turned out one of his intercooler pipes had disconnected from another pipe. It was very difficult to see it and just by chance we found the pipe. Basically have a look at the intercooler piping to see nothing has disconnected. Also check your boost guage, if it does not boost properly when you hit 3500rpm, this would mean you have a boost leak somewhere.
I know its not a rotary but hopefully might help...
p.s. I also heard that this problem can be caused by some earthing problem which can be fixed with a earthing kit?
Kash
If you\'ve got a BLitz SBC ID booxt controller, which it sounds like you have. It bleeps and flashes red when the set level of boost is exceeded and it will cut the boost back within the paramaters set.
Post a pic of your boost controller and if its an sbc ID I\'ll talk you through upping the boost back to the stock levels.
also --- what happens if you push it up past 3500 revs with the accelerator down gently?
Sounds like it could be in limp home mode and need an ECU reset.
Yes. It\'s the Blitz SBC. And it does indeed sometimes light up red.
I can ease it past 3000 and then it will usually continue to accelerate after that.
sounds like overboost and fuel cut to me.
N
Quote from: rmagictasticsounds like overboost and fuel cut to me.
N
at 3k revs, before the second turbo kicks in?
I can\'t see it. I\'ve only ever known a boost cut at around 6 - 6.5k revs, when the second turbo is boosting freely without any kind of control over it.
dj dee, can you tell me what level the boost is at when the SBC flashes red and beeps, it should display it on the screen. I\'m almost certain that the problem you have is the boost controller set way too low and is cutting in waay early.
I think you could hit overboost at 4.5 when the second turbo comes on line. 3K is weird though.
If the SBC is flashing and beeping then its definitely that causing the problem. You set it a certain level of boost that is acceptable and if it goes over then it cuts it back very heavily.
I\'ll go for a spin tonight and kind take note of everything that\'s happening. The Boost controller isn\'t showing a reading, it says "off" on the left, but still lights up the screen red & beeps.
I have a separate analogue boost guage, although I couldn\'t say how accurate it is, but it does seem to be jumping up to 1 bar pretty fast. I\'ve also noticed that there is turbo usage when I\'m in 5th gear doing around 60-70. As my turbo time counts up & the boost guage is showing some activity.
Also, There Doesn\'t appear to be a secondary feeling of any boost from the second turbo. It just boosts hard from quite low revs.
EDIT: Incidentally, I have noticed that the earth strap from the engine to the bulkhead looks rather pathetic & actually has a tiny spade connector joining 2 parts together. Whether this could be affecting it, as pointed out by Tyson earlier?
Quote from: dj_dee99but it does seem to be jumping up to 1 bar pretty fast
If you\'re at one bar well before 4.5k revs then you\'ve not got a standard sequential turbo set up. Maybe not as simple as I originally predicted, could well be a boost cut.
Out of interest where did you get the car and what mods it has.
I will pop out a little later & get a clearer idea of what everything is doing & what the boost guage is showing, etc. Actually, there is a warning already set on the boost controller, as it has the word "Warn" at the bottom left of the screen.
Not 100% sure of the engine mods. The stuff I do know of are twin K&Ns, HKS Dump valve, Blitz Dual SBC Boost Controller, Pivot Airflow controller, Looks like it may have an aftermarket intercooler, but I\'ve not seen the standard one, so can\'t be 100% sure.
It came over from Japan around 3 months ago. I have a few Japanese documents & stuff, but I have no idea what they\'re supposed to be saying!!! :3Confused
Well, I\'ve just been out in it to see what things I can find out. I think I probably need to set up the boost controller. In 2nd Gear, the boost kicks in just after 2000 revs and is hitting 1 bar by around 4000! In higher gears, boost seems to fluctuate at higher revs. The analogue boost guage seems to be a little lively, so I decided to go by the guage on the boost controller instead.
Still don\'t know if the pulling back is anything to do with the controller or not. Happens around 3000 revs. Best explanation is it seems to make a loud "Farting Buzzing" noise which sounds like it\'s coming from the exhaust as the car seems to pull all power back. If I ease past 3000 then it will usually continue to rev higher, occasionally trying to do the same thing around the 4000 mark.
well,
my advice to you is that,as yer man said earlier, it could be a boost cut or simply running out of fuel and detting. I\'m sure I don\'t need to tell you that any kind of det on a rotary is bad news.
Get it to a rotary specialist and get it checked out, it may have a panspeed (or similar) ECU and be too advanced for the fuel we run over here. I think It\'d be fair to say that if you\'re hittin ga bar by 4k revs the turbos are not sequential so its had a fair amount of mods done to it and without a proper map for UK fuel you can pop your engine before you know it.
Call Carl at Hayward Rotary (I\'m sure he won\'t mind me saying this) he\'s a real friendly guy and if you tell him your problems he\'ll give you a much much more knowledgable answer than I ever could.
Good luck man
I concour, with rex here.
if your gathering boost quickley, and hitting 1 bar with a stock ECU you will get fuel cut.
my guess would be that the wastegate side of your rats nest may have a problem in it
(eg. your wasgate solinoid not working or wastegate actauor not working/stuck...ect)
this will cause the primary tub to boost on and on. you can get this with a stock turbo setup.
my first point of call would be to have a look at the ECU(behind the black plastic bit passanger footwell) see if its got any stickers on it, if so someone in the motherland (JP) may have rom tuned the ECU to do this function, they dont seem to care about det/engine failure ect over there., for example when mine first got here i had 1.3 bar boost with no mods to the car.
DO NOT BOOST THE CAR DRIVE SLOWLY UNTIL THIS PROBLEM IS FIXED.
enough preaching for this time of day.
Nick
Thanks for the advice, guys.
Will try to have a better look over it at the weekend (it\'s always too dark when I fin work!).
One other thing I noticed. I occasionally get a sound (after boost) like a "Wooooooo" sound that starts high & kind of falls lower. Not sure if that points at anything?
Also, what should the stock settings be on the boost controller?
Thanks!
Quotemy guess would be that the wastegate side of your rats nest may have a problem in it
Wouldn\'t have thought this was the issue. If he\'s got a stock setup, and it\'s still meant to be sequential, then the wastegate is not operated before 4500rpm. It\'s the turbo pre-control that operates controls boost pressure below 4500rpm: it regulates the boost of the primary by directing some of the exhaust gasses round the second turbo.
However....if the setup is that of non-sequential twins, then, yes, i guess this issue would be caused by the wastegate sticking shut.
EDIT: Ok, just read this (http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/TurboTroubleshooting.htm) and it seems that below 4500 the wastegate is still in operation. There is info there about boost spikes above 10PSI too. A worthwhile read.
QuoteAlso, what should the stock settings be on the boost controller?
Well, stock the FD runs 0.7 bar boost. So, make sure its set to that if you\'re still running a stock ECU.
Rather than start a new thread, I thought I might as well just ressurect this one.
Does anyone know what settings I need to use on the Blitz Dual SBC boost controller for the turbos to run as close to stock as possible?
Also, I\'m after another set of settings (I believe it can store 4 different saved settings) which I can use when I travel down to Newquay, so that would basically need to be pretty much not using the turbos at all.
Currently when I\'m travelling at 60mph in 5th gear, there is a little boost still being used. Still showing in the minus, but the turbo timer is counting up. That wouldn\'t be ideal when on the motorway!
The current set up means boost starts at just over 2000 revs, and pulls up to 1bar at 4000, where it then drops.
Oedipus Rex, I believe you know how to use this thing correctly? I downloaded a set of instructions, but don\'t wanna mess around too much with it myself! :3Confused