Hi everyone,
Ive managed to get an apexi power fc with the commander, and from reading here, it seems that before i get it mapped, it would be good to buy a boost controller. I think......
I noticed that apexi sell this: http://www.neweraparts.com/partinfo.jsp?pid=392
So would it be better to buy the above or a greddy profecB spec 11?
Any opinion is appreciated :Giggle
I\'ve read here that apexi fc boost controll is best avoided.
Better to go for a standalone controllor.
Greddy should be cool, I like the look of the new blitz unit...
http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk/electronics.html
I bought a Blitz SBC iD-III from Miguel at Newera, not fitted yet though. That is supposed to be one of teh best on the market. I also bought a Blitz power meter to make up the second half of the bottom DIN slot as they match each other.
Whether you need to get a boost controller depends on a few things;
a) What boost you intend to run
b) are you twin or single turbo
Yes boost controllers may control boost better than the standard system if set up well, however, If you current system is ok you should be able to run higher boost without too much of a problem. If in doubt have a word with the specialist mapping your apexi.
Regards
Jon.
I wouldn\'t go for the plug in to the commander, all i got was boost jumping about the place.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/dynorun.jpg)
Then swapped to the Greddy Profec B II, much nicer peice of kit and can have two presets
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/dyno.jpg)
Shaun
If mapped well you should find just the Apexi FC (ECU alone) can handle the boost \'okay\', at most there\'ll be a minor drop before the second turbo comes online, so could be a false economy to buy a boost controller, with one however you\'d be hoping for a nicer boost curve throughout the range.
The Blitz ID III kit (power meter and boost controller) are simple to fit yourself, the power meter has just one wire to splice into the ecu (pinouts are somewhere on this forum), 1 for 12v, 1 for GND. The boost controller looks more complex at first but basically takes a feed from the uim and the solenoid should be piped up between the turbo and wastegate actuators etc (diagrams on this forum). With the right kit ready and a drill in tow you can have it all fitted for under an hour easy. Second hand you\'d be looking at the pair for about 300 notes. If you plan on linking them together via the infrared ports then you need them to be side by side, within millimetres of each other, which makes placing them a somewhat thoughtful and potentially annoying process. As above some woodwork and a spare DIN socket is ideal. I can recommend the units anyway.
If you\'re made of money then buy the new MMC which is in full colour and just one unit does the lot. That or the new Greddy unit whose name currently escapes me (LM-01? E-01?), how much you can do without an e-manage unit I don\'t know, maybe everything.
Reworx would probably recommend the midrange greddy boost controller as mentioned by someone else in this thread, and i believe most others on this forum would to. Personally the look doesn\'t appeal to me but as far as controlling boost is concerned it\'s meant to be great.
I can post a dyno-run of a well mapped TT engine without any boost controller if you do consider not buying a boost controller.
If you want a detailed explanation of the id iii power meter then just ask, or you can find the manual. It\'s not necessary for controlling boost, only the boost controller unit is, but it is necessary if you want to control boost via engine speed rather than revs. It does however let you record power runs down the road (1/4, 0 - 60 etc), which is fun if you\'re bored one sunday and aren\'t concerned about pulling the car out of the ditch afterwards.
Hope some of that helps,
Cheers.
ps. don\'t buy that thing you mentioned in your post.
thanks gents, wont be getting the PFC add on then..
Im running the standard twins, but we thinks the thrust bearings have been changed. no proof, but freddy seemed to think so.
Mild street port as well.
So maybe map it 1st since i already have the PFC and boost controller later?
As for boost, unfortunately i havent got a boost guage(yet) so i dont know if boost is standard or not. The ecu has been mapped in japan to run on the mods, but the plugs have been changed to 9s all round, therefore, when the 2nd turbo kicks in, it cuts the power sometimes, or stammers, when revs drop to 3800 it picks up again. Apparently the trailing side plugs were a 10, thats why.
I only really encountered this on the Motorway in 5th gear. Under acceleration.
Thanks for your input guys :o))
You\'re right, definitely first stop off for you is a change in ecu and mapping then see how you feel after that. The powergraph from the dyno-run will be enough to let you know if you\'d benefit greatly from a boost controller. If you post your modification list then sure someone will help you find ways of spending your money on a sensible approach towards better performance. If it\'s unmodded i\'m surprised you\'d need colder plugs than 9s however.
You won\'t need a boost gauge if you\'re getting an FC commander with your Apexi ECU (recommended), since it\'ll show both current and peak in a nice size font, so save your pennies there.
What else is changed on the car anyway?
Cheers.. :)
thanks
mods are: Street Ported 13B REW
Thrust Bearing Changed Turbo\'s
Cold air feed
Silicone water hose
Silicone Vacuum lines
Greddy enlarged elbow pipe
Greddy VVC
HKS intercooler pipe
Large HKS front mount intercooler
Koyo high flow radiator
Greddy Airinx air filters
HKS large down pipe
SR Racing exhaust system
Silenced midpipe
Re Amemiya Aluminium AST tank
HKS SSQ blow off valve
Thinking of changing the greddy airinx induction kit for a cold feed one? Any opinions? What do u guys run?
Quick question, i have the re-amemiya steering column guage with the mini guage, whats the size of those guages? is it 58mm?
That\'s quite a lot of (nice) mods to have on a standard ecu. Sure it\'s just a stock one? I would seriously think of laying off the boost until you\'ve got the apexi fitted and colder plugs will definitely help. You can do it yourself if you\'ve got the apexi to hand.
Not sure on your other question although most gauges are 52mm or so.
what plugs would anyone reccomended for that spec?
I drive it about 3 times a week, and dont want flooding issues and so on. I try not to do the short stop and starts anyway.
Soneone on here is seling their re-amemiya boost guage and the part needed to fit it behind the steering wheel, wonder if that is 52mm guage. Need to pay up so i can PM.. DOH!!! :Party
Im running ngk iridium 11s all round on twin setup similar to yours, only floods if i leave it to idle-without-aid or stall it within a few minutes of firing up from cold, once warmed up behaves like a normal car, 11s are probably overkill so I\'m sure 10s are fine, used mine as a daily for a year and now once or twice a week, made no difference to it\'s behaviour. There\'s a sticky thread on plugs somewhere that might help. If you still get your probs accelerating with colder plugs then try an ignition amplifier (hks twin etc), the symptoms of ignition breakup may be similar to what you\'re experiencing.
Apexi intake received good reviews for filtering when compared to other options. The one you suggest wasnt included in the test however.
Do make sure you\'re not running a stock ecu though, I\'m sure it must be something else or you may be heading for trouble, I\'ll be quiet now, good luck and happy motoring :)
dynochart with just the ecu and no boost controller, HPs at the wheels, i\'d expect yours would be similar..
Got any photos of the HKS FMIC installed? I have one I bought secondhand, but haven\'t got round to fitting it yet and want as much info before starting the job.
Yep, as above the power fc boost controller isnt at all great in holding down boost well. We discussed this no? :spank
Also, Chris\'s ECU isnt bone stock. Infact judging off the markings, it seemed to be a knightsports/autostaf tuned ecu. A power fc is on the cards however. Also, have the boost controller fitted before mapping if you are intent on having one fitted.
As for power, I would estimate Chris to hit near the 390-400 mark at the flywheel with some good mapping. Gerbil, your dyno sheet reassures that.
:)
i assumed that the PFC had its own in-built boost controller, my mistake.
Didnt know about Knightsports/auto.... ECU, bu thats re-assuring for now.
End result is its safe to map with the pfc alone and no boost controller, so for now thats whats on the cards.
Gerbil ur dyno looks good :driving
:D :D :D
Hi Chap, While im dossing i may as well mention .. and I\'m 159% certain Freddy will tell you this since he knows far in excess of what i do, but check what injectors and fuelling kit you\'re running before trying to get too much more out of it.
Also the VVC you mention ( i looked it up as i had no idea ) is a manual boost controller, i doubt it\'s particularly impressive so in the grand scheme of things i\'d look to remove it unless a dynorun proves otherwise. I guess VVC means variable valve controller or something..
The Apexi ECU can control boost \'alright\', although just think of it as a boost limiter rather than a controller. The dyno chart I posted should just about show what you can expect at 1.1bar anyway, with a ported motor i reckon you\'ll see more ponies there. If you haven\'t seen a commander already then download the manual and you see what it can display then you can \'can\' any ideas of buying most gauges, air temp, water temp, boost amongst others is all shown on the display, you\'d be wasting your money on these. If you wanted any then Oil pressure/temp, and Fuel Pressure would be good, I dont\' have any left to give you otherwise i would.
Infact im so bored here\'s some stuff -that may or may not already be on yours but isnt on your list- you can spend your money on...
Oil Catch Tank
Uprated Fuel Pump - I reckon you\'ve got one
Fuel Pressure Regulator - I\'m using SX from Reworx
Injectors - Stock are 550 / 850, I\'m hitting 100% on these.
Wideband O2 sensor - if you\'re into tuning
Datalogit (and laptop) - ditto
Oil temp, pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge
Tyres - toyo proxies have been recommended to me, and i trust him :)
Buy slimline battery and move to the rear. I\'m using a PC680 from somewhere i can;t remember. Knight something..
Ignition amplifier - hks twin power etc..
Edit: Colder plugs :)
Dynochart goodness is courtesy of the previous owner of my car btw, it was taken a few weeks after buying it some 16 months ago, a bit of a rotary funkster he is :), my own work will now be apparent unfortunately post-RS3 ( which im sure testing it will involve the car falling apart not-all-that-far down the m6 toll etc ). I\'ve learnt a lot since buying it, but you can never learn as fast as you do when things go wrong :)
If you want to follow the ultimate in building up a car from total scratch then follow any post from \'brett single\', ive seen the car with my own eyes and it\'s enough to start you smoking if you haven\'t already.
Have fun..
- just seen pics of your car,.. fuffing awesome mate, look\'s the absolute monkeys nuts, you\'ll struggle to find much diy stuff to do there.