Hiya guys,
I’m hoping that you will be able to shed some light on a problem I am having.
On my 3rd Generation, I believe the turbo’s were up-rated before it left Japan, but my knowledge of engines is minimal as far as details are concerned.
All of a sudden, my second turbo seems to have stopped kicking in at 4K revs, and is now not having any noticeable effect until approx 6K revs. The sound has changed from a throaty roar to a long hiss and also the dump value (Greddy aftermarket) has stopped giving out its sharp release.
Is there anything I can do to fix this simply or have I blown the turbo??? :( If so, how much would a re-condition cost (as a rule of thumb)?
I would test for boost leaks first, if you have a boost leak, the first turbo will be overworking and not enough pressure is being generated to spool the second to make it come online. If your knowledge is minimal best take it to one of the Rotary Experts, probably only take them a short while to diagnose and fix your problem
It only took pip an hour to figure out that all my pressure and vacuum lines were wired up wrongly! So he may be expensive, but he does the work quickly, and therefore it pays in the end anyway!
I doubt the turbo is blown, thats usually accompanied by huge clouds of smoke and horrible noises!
Check all the piping for leaks, especially the big ones. Then look for any of the little rubber hoses and see if any have popped off somewhere.
The \'hiss\' sounds like the boosted air leaking from some of the plastic piping. That\'s your best bet. Have a look at the rubber coupler on the y- pipe connecter - that often splits. Failing that, have a look at your plastic pipes going to and from the intercooler. Best to take them off and have a look as any split tend to be difficult to see while still on the car!
If it is any of those parts - give me a shout as i have all those parts spare! :)
Nice one cheers guys, that\'s put my mind somewhat at ease!! Piping shouldn\'t be too difficult, gonna take it over to a fellow member tonight who knows more than me, it\'s only been 3 months since it was serviced at Dragon, so i\'m sure nothings connected incorrectly.... something must have split and/or come off!
One thing though, when you rev it in neutral using the throttle wire under the bonnet, should the left hand cog/wheel on the auxilliary belt lock up as the revs start to increase, then free up again as you loosen off?? I hope that\'s normal.
Cheers
Flip.
yeah thats normal, that will be you air pump engaging and disengaging
Quote from: BlitzBoyyeah thats normal, that will be you air pump engaging and disengaging
Thought it must be a pump, nice one! Will let you know how it turns out. Cheers for the help.
May be a bit late for you......and I hope I remeber this correctly......
A while ago the circlip that holds the Turbo control actuator (the one on the botton) rod on, fell off my car. This caused the secondary turbo to be reduced to 0.2 bar or something.
I put the rod back on with a new circlip, and all was back to normal.
Quote from: feelioMay be a bit late for you......and I hope I remeber this correctly......
A while ago the circlip that holds the Turbo control actuator (the one on the botton) rod on, fell off my car. This caused the secondary turbo to be reduced to 0.2 bar or something.
I put the rod back on with a new circlip, and all was back to normal.
Ah-ha...... that sounds a distinct possibility!!!! Me and Ricco took several pipes off last night, found a problem and fixed it and spent ages putting it all back on, only to find it had no effect whatsoever.
Then this morning, a guy at work who\'s got a turbo\'d car says: \'if it\'s a pipe i\'d check the actuator\'.
Hmmmm, anyone got a photo of what it \'should\' look like to help me spot it????
Check the two big rubber hoses for splits. The one from the y pipe and the one that goes to the intercooler. I think they are around 70mm in dia. They normally split under the clips, so take them off and check them carefully . It happened to me last week
jamie
Hello - fellow rotary member here! :D I think you are being far too kind about my knowledge! :rollin Anyway, I have some pictures to help the diagnosis.
1st one - one of the bungs at the arse end of the filter had perished and shot off. Late at night with only Halfrauds open it was time for bodge job - I hope you like! :evillaugh
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b10/effazef/Jap%20Worcs/BodgeJob.jpg)
I also found 2 pipes that had been capped off, but again had perished. This photo has the general location of the 2 pipes :
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b10/effazef/Jap%20Worcs/BodgeJob2Splits.jpg)
And a shot of the 2 pipes :
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b10/effazef/Jap%20Worcs/2SplitHoses.jpg)
These are obviously too small to cause the problem. Any idea what they are for?
The actuator problem sounds like it is the prime suspect except for the overboosting - 0-4,500 revs flip is getting 3.5bar and after its about 7bar.
Although saying that has just probably sorted my boost problem, Thanks!! :)
Hope any of you can help - the grin on Flips face the first time I saw his car must have hurt - he needs hurting again! :evillaugh
Thanks guys :wave
Those are very important hoses. The open nipple on the left is a direct link to the pressure from the primary turbo. If air as allowed to escape there, I am pretty sure you would lose plenty of boost.
The one on the right, where your hand is, I think is just a vent to the atmosphere now, bacause theres a T piece in a strange place there... so...
Is this car set up for non-sequential? Those pipes have been properly messed around with !
Oh, and I gently suggest you clean the engine bay once in a while !
Right - thats the fella then! :)
Not sure how the tubbies are set to run - I think they are sequential from the graph. He did have it on the rollers (408@Fly!! :cool ) if its any use this is his print out :
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y145/big_spin_flip/SWarksOT0003.jpg)
We had been talking (using the graph) that there is a big drop in torque but mostly the big "flat spot" of aprox 1,000rpm in the middle - but this was before the problems.
I had an issue with my 2nd turbo on my FD, turned out to be a faulty solinoid , after Ross replaced this it was heaven again :)
Strange connection of pipes as Martiny said.
Is there a boost controller fitted?
Would capping off the two nipples restore boost to how it was before? The top one is causing the hiss and must have been capped off, it normally goes to the wastegate actuator but another pipe is on there now, so deffo try capping that one off. Not sure about the lower one.
Ok just had another look and I see there is an electronic boost controller fitted I think.
It\'s been plumbed in strangely, so as to control the dip/spike at transition with the boost controller.
If you want to keep boost the same as before, plug the open top nipple with a piece of vac pipe plugged at the end.
Then make sure the other nipple on the pre control actuator is connected to the solenoid, looks like the pipe is still there just needs pushing back on and securing.
(Having said that, I wonder if that nipple was capped off too, to stop the solenoid bleeding the pre control because the boost controller is now connected to it.)
I would try re-connecting it 1st and see if the boost controller is controlling the transition dip/spike, it should.
Hope you get that lol.
Ah-ha - we found the problem!!! It\'s on the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler. It seems that the claip has slipped somewhat and partially come out.
Yesterday we tightened it up and the boost came back. Hooray :) Then it went again :(
Today i will be mostly........... pulling the whole part and relocating properly.
Yeah, good news mate - how embarised do I feel that we tok half it apart and didn\'t check that!!! At least we found other stuff which will jst make it better! :D
Yeah, I pulled the hoses out at the weekend, and relocated them. Everything seems to have been slightly out of place as if it had moved over time. Everything now working nicely.
Cheers for all the help guys, i\'ll move onto fixing the other bits and pieces over the winter.... but i\'m sooooo glad to have my boost back. Scragged an M3 last night on way back from Stratford....hahahahahahaha i LOVE kicking Beamers!!!!
So can you now control the transition dip/spike with your boost controller? You should with that set up.
I wish my fd boosted to 7 bar
Quote from: Ricco_04Hello - fellow rotary member here! :D
The actuator problem sounds like it is the prime suspect except for the overboosting - 0-4,500 revs flip is getting 3.5bar and after its about 7bar.
Thanks guys :wave
God damm it! I really must check what I type! Need to change my sig to say RUBBISH! :bandit