Dear All,
My car went for MOT check and failed due to corrosion.
The items where Inner Sills, Sills and Floor Pan.
There was also corrosion on the chassis.
I don\'t no what to do. I was told that it would be very expensive to put right.
I think I have two options:
1 - Sell it so it can be broken up for parts -engines good.
2 - Find a member that can show me how to do it myself!
Any advice would br great. I\'ll post some pics later in the day.
Chris W
Or.
3. You could find a member to show you how to use the search button...
It\'s just at the top to the right abit... says \'search\'...
You click it and type what you want to find and \'this is what happens\' (http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/search.php?searchid=49404)
Goodluck :)
How bad is it? If you are prepared to prep the car then it wont cost too much for someone to have a go at the welding. (My TII was rusted through down both sides and the inside of the rear sills etc, I did the prep and got a local firm to weld it up, cost me £250.)
At the moment I would advise against breaking it, theres a few being broken atm and its really hard to shift the parts, better to get the rust seen to, the 2nd gen is getting a rare beastie these days!
Thanks for your advice both of you.
I\'m taking the girl on a tour of the local weld shops in the next couple of days.
Sorry, still haven\'t done the photo\'s - so you can get a better idea.
Everything will have to come out of the cabin for it to be done. So if I can can prep it - may save a few quid there.
Thanks all for your help.
Chris
No worries. I removed most of the interior trim and left the drivers seat in only. (DOnt bother trying to remove the carpet, you cant unless you remove the entire dash or cut it) If you can get at the rust yourself with a rotary wire brush and a screw driver, so that its back to good bare metal you will be saving yourself a lot of labour cost.
Thanks,
Been looking at "searches" , the rust spots are in the same place as Grinders "disheartened".
So the plan is to put the RX in storage (I\'m busy until the new year), and I\'m going to do the work myself. I want it done properly. My Bro is an engineer so he\'ll come round and give us an hand (doesn\'t know yet :cool ).
It looks like the welding as been done before and hasn\'t been treated properly after completion.
The waxol stuff, is this the stuff in the spray can? I\'ve something in a classic car mag- where you stick it in an hole and hold on while it shoots it suff all inside ;) .
I have looked at the seat mounts and these are corroded. tried tonnes of Wd40, no luck.
Should I cut them off ?
Thanks again.
Chris
You dont want to cut to the seat mounts off, trying giving them a tap with a pin punch and a hammer, its normally enough to break the rust on the threads.
Waxoyl is barrier/preventative substance, imagine very thick parrafin/petrol, you can get it in various forms, the 5 ltr cans are best, then either paint it on or get a waxoyl spray can. (works like a hand sprayer, you just pressurize it with a pump)
Waxoyling needs to be redone every 2 years or so as it does start to thin out. Nothing beats it though.
thanks will try to get them off with hammer.
always intregued by 1988 rx7\'s my old one has been on ebay about 14 times now :(
can you drop me a PM of the reg to put my mind at ease :D
matey i had this problem also when i got my t2, it cost me 300 quid to put right i did all the prep work myself tho. and the dude who sorted it under sealed and waxoiled it all as well.
my car is nice and solid now,
if i was you i would just save up 400 quid or so and get it back on the road!
Thanks All for your wise words.
Here\'s the plan:
Keep the Car!!! :cheers
Put in storage or find suitable work shop.
Purchase MIG Welder
Practice on Wife\'s car :rollin
Do the work myself.
Been looking at these welding devices, there seems to be types that have the option of gas and some don\'t. Which is the most suitable?
I think a MIG welder may be a wise investment. Anybody bought one from ebay? B&Q have them for £135.
Thanks once again.
Chris
Personally I wouldn\'t get one from B&Q, try having a look at what screwfix etc have to offer. Prices are normally pretty competitive.
Glad you\'ve decided to keep the car!
hiya matey !
the MIG i was gonna buy one from the B&Q - they look OK - just need brett to convince us other wise
if you are welding outside then the gassless wire is better - if you are welding indoors then the gas is better
better to get a welder that does both
i welded my car ( as you have seen ) and that was my first attempt at welding
glad you are keeping the car though - we need more FC members ( we only have about 50 on this board :( )
if you need ANY advice - then just ask away - there are loads of good people on here who know their stuff ( and people like me who dont !! - said that before brett said it ! )
take care
Stu
( is it just me - or do all FC owners become full members ASAP ??? )
Thanks for all your advice.
:cheers
Here you go, these seem pretty acceptable :yes
ScrewFix.com (http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/cat.jsp?cId=100333>se=goog>kw=mig+welder)
If you plan on doing the welding over the winter then do it somewhere fairly sheltered and not too cold. Always make yourself comfortable, if you are uncomfortable then the weld wont be a good one. Strange but true!
:guinness
brett - i know what you mean !!
the inside was easy to weld - are you are doing it from above ( and gravity holds the plate down ) - underneath was a real pain , just cause you are lied on your back and not a vast amount of room :( - and the plate it really arkward to hold
what i did - was cut a peice of wood to about 1foot long , and i just to wedge that between the floor and the plate i was welding in - just to keep it in place - tack weld it - move the wood , weld and keep going until the plate was fastened - then tried my best to seam weld it on ( more like spot weld every 2mm ) - but you get the idea !!
you got any pics of the corrosion?
I\'m gonna whip this into the 2nd gen section, seems more appropriate :)