right quite simply im thinking of removing the airpump,,, i need to know a few things
1) the airpump and all its crap including switching air valve can be removed and blanked off,, what about the electrical connectors (i hear resistors need putting in there place)
2) if i remove the air pump ,,how do we stand on emmisions in this country....last year when my car was M.O.T ,,,,they said they cant check emmisions because its rotory,,,,and they just passed it straight away,, is that correct.
3)will the standard CAT be ok with no air pump...although im thinking of just putting in midpipe or mid silencer.
4)which is the best midpipe/ mid silencer,,, i know midpipe wil be louder,,,,but how bad...is it not worth going midpipe,,,just tell me what you think,,,and power increase ect (im not worried about boost spike,,,im gonna port wastegate and buy bost controller)
any body who has done this mod just tell me what you can,,,thanks,, :3gears-lh
Moving this to the correct section :)
Cheers.
1. Never heard of needing to do anything to the electrics apart from disconnect, thats what i did to mine.
2. They still need to pass emissions test. but if they pass you without checking, all the better :cool
3. Standard cat will block up without airpump and you will loose power. You need to decat.
4. You will need pulley kit and belts to do this mod.
5. Idle can become erratic if you keep the standard ecu with this mod.
6. You can run the risk of detonation if you keep the standard ecu and decat...
Regarding number 2)
It should be tested exactly the same as any other road car in terms of emissions, only Wankel engines predating August 1986 have a different set of rules. If its on a \'J\' plate you may remove the CAT, but I doubt you will get the emissions down easily, if its on a \'K\' or later it must have a CAT to pass the MOT.
BTW, what Generation Rx7 is this?
have a look at this thread
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14205
so i dont need any resistors plugging into the emiisions wiring,,,to fool the ECU
Actually the K plate CAT required rule isn\'t true for imports.
It\'s pre 1995 to require a cat for an import.
Quote from: tiger18so i dont need any resistors plugging into the emiisions wiring,,,to fool the ECU
What Ecu are you planning on using mate? Standard? Apexi?
Stock ECU will need resistors, PFC won\'t.
I\'m on a J-plate and therefore my mot station considered it as a 91, so the emissions weren\'t tested! :D
i just read that idle will become a problem without a new ECU ,, and resisitors arent needed,,,as the idle is something to do with airflow from the pump
Why dont you phone one of the tuners above? Im sure they will tell you exactly what you need to hear. Or try Pip at WGT he is probably closest to you. Im sure they will all be happy to impart with you friendly advice.
1. as far as a am aware the resistor will stop the ECU throwing out an error code (it still thinks something is connected) but won\'t actually make any difference to running.
2. I am running a midpipe i got of a US ebay supplier, its stainless, unmuffled and cost about 70 quid delivered, it came with bolts and gaskets and fitted perfectly. With a HKS super dragger back box it isn\'t excessively loud, good burble at idle and no real resonating. the car gained about a psi of boost throughout the rev range ! My car just passed its MOT, running rich but under the 1200, 3.0% non cat limits. The air pump is still connected but just pumping to nowhere...i plan to get rid of all the emmision stuff soon....i.e pulley kit, remove double throttle etc.
so if your car is pre 1995, get rid of the cat with all the other mods you talk about it would be rude not to !