hiya chaps
this is whats happening
you boot the car in 3rd from say 50 , the revs rise and then fall and then rise again - someone said that the clutch is on the way out - so its slipping thats why its rising ( slip ) then falls and catches up ( grabs )
SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
anyone know what involved to change a clutch
more importantly - is anyone selling a clutch ??
yeah we all know im cheap so bear that i mind
and this needs to be done before RSIII so i can beat Brett up the strip :)
Ta
Stu
Hard to say, sounds like an ebay related question !!!! Sounds like fun if you want another pair of hands when you get one. May not be much use, then you can do the same for me ! lol.
Would you class my car as out of the fd range for the 115mph terminal speed ??? Only ever got 110mph ??
Shaun
Can u smell the clutch burning at all.
It does sound like the clutch of the fly is on its way out
i would not recomend doing it on your drive.
scott
Put the car in second gear with the handbrake fully up(needs to be working) and slip the clutch as though you are moving off... if the car bites and stalls then your clutch is fine... if the engine continues to rev without stalling then the clutch is going/gone. But you must give it some good gas as in a good attempt to move off...
Brand new complete clutch kit taking 300+ BHp = £150.oo
Clutch change with two blokes = 2 hrs
Cheap and easy even by your standards sir...
Good luck
Quote from: TRexPut the car in second gear with the handbrake fully up(needs to be working) and slip the clutch as though you are moving off... if the car bites and stalls then your clutch is fine... if the engine continues to rev without stalling then the clutch is going/gone. But you must give it some good gas as in a good attempt to move off...
Brand new complete clutch kit taking 300+ BHp = £150.oo
Clutch change with two blokes = 2 hrs
Cheap and easy even by your standards sir...
Good luck
Wow - that sums Stu up in one lol
(sry - couldn\'t resist . . . . . yes you can slap my . . . . . . . wrist ;) )
hummmmmm
so one says dont do it on the drive , and another reckons its not a big job ?!?!? - theres a quandry LOL !!!
i will try the 2nd gear check though - didnt think of that !!
"Brand new complete clutch kit taking 300+ BHp = £150.oo" - dom - where is that from ?? sounds pretty cool !!
thanks for the advice though
i will report back once i try the 2nd gear thing
should be an interesting set of pics if i decide to do it !!
Ta
Stu
( and kirsty - consider yourself slapped :) )
If it passes the pulling away test, take her out and load her up in fourth, if the tach heads for the redline but road speed doesnt increase much initially at least, clutch is tossed. I\'ve had a couple of stock FD clutches go which passed the pulling away test only to slip when you least wanted it on the road...
Quote from: 20B_boyIf it passes the pulling away test, take her out and load her up in fourth, if the tach heads for the redline but road speed doesnt increase much initially at least, clutch is tossed. I\'ve had a couple of stock FD clutches go which passed the pulling away test only to slip when you least wanted it on the road...
Correct, this was my next step... :yes
You could change the clutch on the drive in the road anywhere as it\'s a 2 hour job with 2 blokes, ok make that 3hrs if you haven\'t done a clutch change before... 2 trolley jacks, pair of stands or mini ramps.
Done one 2 weeks before RSII on my cousins car(Stock white quick one), was both our first time (oohh ahhh) with a T2 and was a P*ss.
If you had an EVo then tis another story! :(
Clutch change!! Not a nice job on your drive. The job is ok its just the weight of the box and manovering it back into place then getting it square as not to Bugger up the Bearing it the E-Shaft. (Two/three man job)
To check it i think you\'ve proberly got that covered, Nice St Road 30mph fith gear boot it. if it revs with out moving any quicker its Buggered!!
If you are going to atempt getting it out is Silly easy, (Exhaust off,Prop Off,bell housing bolt,Starter,rear Mount and gear lever) Don\'t forget to drop the oil or it gets migty messy, then its two big screw drivers and a bit of gental force while somone else holds the back up from inside the car with a Rope (rap it round the back of the box and through the Lever hole) when you start to see a gap 95-10mm) get out and put a jack under the center make sure while your doing all this if for any reason it drops you aint under it.
After a bit of wiggling the box will fall off the Output/E-Shaft so be carfull!! the next bit is easy remove the 12mm Bolts and replace the clutch it is very important you get the Friction plate in the center (you may want to make or borow a Clutch alinment tool) These bolts should be thread locked and Torqued up and you may want to put a little bit of grease in the bearing in the center of the Flywheel (don\'t get it every where).
Putting the box back is the bad bit, the car realy has to be level on the stands (becouse the box will always want to be level on the jack) then manover it in the right sort of place with the jack. get a peice of wood that goes across the gear lever hole and tie the back end up so the wood can be lifted up by a second person and if its droped for any reason the box wont squish you under the car. Next get the Output shaft of the Box resting on the Presure plate of the clutch with the back of the box up. This is where lot of hands are usefull. Now move the jack under the bell housing (carfully) and take the weight of the box at this point it would be nice to have somone pushing the top of the engine back so the engine and box are both at a simalar angle. then just Pop it back on ;)
Once the Box is lined up you will proberly find it wont go the last 10-15mm this is becouse of the Bearing in the E-Shaft. I have some bolts i bought for this job which are 25mm too long so i can put them in (This is mainly i don\'t have to worrie its going to falling on me) i have also been known to use them to pull the box into the bearing square as when your strugling to push the box back it often doesn\'t go on square and this means the bearing is taking some stick.
Once you have the Box on with the bell housing bolts in it home and Dry Mate.
But i warn you if its your first Seven Box and your doing it on the drive you want to leave your self a Good weekend to do it and get lots of Plasters and Radox in. ;)
Look at it this way there isn\'t any welding involved :) If you are going to do this your self Don\'t get a qoute for the work becouse it will drive you mad when your strugling to get it back in. LOL
Hope that made sence i\'ve had a long day and its 12.45am. If you are realy lucky i may have a Stock T2 cluth thats done about 100miles i put in my car when i was waiting for some plates for my OS. (not exactly sure where the Presure plate is though?)
Chris
Yep, I can confirm it was a bitch to do on the Egi, and doing it on the turbo is only going to make things worse, your saving grace is that you\'ve had the exhasut off recently so everything should still be freely moving. You will need to drop the exhaust, then drop the propshaft from the diff end, making sure it does not drop off of the gearbox. Take the intercooler and as much other bumf as you need to off of the engine so you can reach the bell housing bolts. You will need a jack under the gearbox, at its point of balance now. Also something to support the engine is a good idea too. From inside the car, remove the gearstiock surround and knob, then undo the little plate which has 3 bolts, you should now be able to pull the stick out of the box. (Dont worry, its keyed so you cant get it wrong on reassembly)
Once the bell housing has been unbolted, one person has to keep the engine straight (Length of wood works wonders here) whilst another lucky person who is underneath the car guides the gearbox away on the jack (using the jack as a trolley). Only move the gbox 12-18" theres no need to walk away with it. You can now see the clutch :)
holy crap - hummm sounds a big job :(
chris - can you let me know about the clutch please matey ??
hummm not sure what to do about all this .. i need to confirm that the clutch is shot at - then at least im not doing this for nothing
sounds like i could be calling the troops in on this one .. might be out of my league ( being crap at working on cars and all that ! )
the only thing im not sure about is getting the car jacked up and level ?? - i can get the front onto ramps dead easy - but its jacking the back up at that point thats a pain !!
do i need loads of room around the car at both sides ??
hummmm i really think this is gonna be arkward on the drive ( mine has a gravel centre to it ) - and thats where the jack would sit with the box on it - and i wont roll ??
thanks for all the advice though guys - keep the ideas coming
BIG thanks
Stu
if grizzly cant find me a clutch ( fingers crossed he can )
would this be OK
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-RACING-STAGE-3-Clutch-86-92-MAZDA-RX7-RX-7-TURBO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33730QQitemZ7992675325QQrdZ1
Stu as I said it\'s no big deal... do not be daunted.
A clutch change on the T2 is a walk...
You DO NOT need to jack the rear of the car, you may have to jack one rear wheel at a time in order to get the Drive shaft bolts off to remove the shaft, thats all.
But 2 blokes and 2 Trolley jacks... must have a good solid ground/flooring to do it though...
Actually ONE bloke that knows what he\'s doing or has done a rear wheel drive clutch chage before and you will be ok..
A clutch change is always a straight foward task and is pratically the same on all cars.. Unless it\'s a Mitsu EVO series... thats another level... Jesus wept!
About bits, I can say, like many other bits(cheap) on e-bay USA, they normally aren\'t that great quality. Be carefull.
Good Luck..
stu, it doesnt sound that bad a job really, get a slab or two or a good bit of plywood and use that underneath the car to put the jacks on, that should hold em steady for ya! you could get a qoute but they will probably charge you at least a hundred quid! you can buy a more beefy clutch for the amount you save on doing it yourself dude.
me and my dad did a rear wheel drive clutch a while back , and it wasnt that bad, you got the instructions here and with the old workshop manual, you should have agood idea on what to do,
As far as gettin the gear box back in yeh this will probably hurt ya a little, but sometimes you can be lucky and get the thing back in! its all a matter of getting it aligned!
buy a breaker bar.
thing about getting from the US is shipping! I get a lot of clutches from the US and they are well priced but once shipping is taken into account you are looking at £250-£350 for the full kit
Yep, i\'ve found it. As i say its stock and has done very few miles (bit grubby though as its been sat about for a while).
As i think you\'ve proberly noticed every one will tell you the refitting is made ALOT easyer if you aligne the Clutch properly before atempting to refit the box.
I would presume it is the same as an FD. I would never do it on the ground. I think a 4 hour job in the air is more like it. You dont wanna pop no seals now do you .
Scott
Seals?
It is very simalar to a Fd Box but a bit more space and a bit more work removing the Clutch assembly.
Yeah OK you got me all scared
chris - how much can i tempt you with to give me a hand ??
and how much for the clutch ??
ta
stu
Chris - any news on the clutch matey ??
just to update this thread a bit more
went out in the car today ( had to charge the battery first :( )
was driving at 40MPH , put it into 5th Gear , floored it - and the revs rose really really slowly - as did engine speeed
so it only seems to be slipping at boost and at around 4-5K
does this make more sense ?