This has probably been asked before, but I can`t find it - Does anyone know of any reason why I shouldn`t put Slik 50 (Teflonised oil additive) into the Rx-7 on my next oil change? It seems sensible to me, with reduced friction and heat, but will it affect pressure? anyone got any clues
Robin
Robin, the engine injects oil, so any additive could cause unwanted results. i.e. a dead engine.
I would just stick with a good grade minerial oil.
Dan
come on fish , if you are moderator , this should be moved into the relevant section surely ?
:D
Fair point, ws a bit snowed under when I replied to this earlier.
Now moved to somewhere it might be better suited, as per request... :p
Dan
Well, despite the excellent advice, I, as ever, went ahead anyway.
750 mls SLIK 50 added at oil change.
500 miles now covered, and I can report that -
She runs cooller and smoother. She seems quieter at coasting speeds. I believe there is a little more power between 4-5,000 revs. It also seems to help the battery on starting - you seem to get a few more chances to `catch it`. Some of this may be perceived rather than actual, but I definitely believe that there is an all-round improvement of around 5% on the above.
Adding SLIK 50 has, at least, done no harm - so far.
So there you go. For a tenner, I`m glad of the stuff, anyway.
Robin
It\'ll certainly be interesting to see what happens long-term - please keep us informed.
I think Fishies reservations are due to the designed burning of oil in the combustion chamber on the rotary. The oil is injected to lube the rotor tips and burns off. Good mineral oil burns leaving little or no residue. Some synthetics are believed to leave deposits behind that can cause damage to the rotor tips (i.e. shattering and very dead engines).
This is why people generally stick to what\'s known to work - mineral oils.
With todays advanced synthetics we may be safe - they may burn with no depositing but I don\'t think the science has been carried out yet to convince us paranoid rotary owners to switch.
It may be that petrol like Optimax that claims to clean engines as it runs will cancel out any deposits from the oil but noone knows for sure.
One thing is pretty certain though - 500 miles is unlikely to be enough to cause a buildup that leads to failure. Maybe you can poop your engine out after 3-5000 miles and let us know how it looks in there ;)
Cheers,
Iain
Someone should run a little experiment:
Get three old saucepans and pour about 5mm of oil into each pan, one with mineral, one with synthetic, one with a mineral and slick 50 mix.
Get hold of a butane blowtorch and set light to all three.
Perhaps OJ could perform the honours as he is good at cooking automotive items ;)
Leave to simmer gently for 30 minutes and see what is left on the bottom of each pan.
Not too scientific, but would be fun :)
Regards
Max
You\'d have to simulate the conditions though to get fair results and I doubt that any significant deposits would be left after burnign 5ml... mabe 50ml would give enough to see what\'s left.
I\'d have a go at this if I could be arsed. But I can\'t!
Bish, did you ever manage to remove that molten plastic from the grill??? :rollin
Dan
Oh Mr Fish. What a long and nasty memory you have. :D
Now now Iain, I said 5mm depth, not 5ml........
You have the time to do the experiment - what with all that hard work you don\'t do ;)
Regards
Max
Right, lets try and find that post that the Bish put up about centre consoles, removing switch markers and overn/grills....
Or maybe even he will post up!
Dan
QuoteOriginally posted by maximtaylor
Now now Iain, I said 5mm depth, not 5ml........
Ooo, so you did :-)
Busy as I\'m not I\'m sure defra would be quite upset if I decided to set fire to their carpark one afternoon...
/me
Could always try this at the next meet with dee bbq! anyone wishes to warm up thier dashboard parts will be welcom!!
For gods sake!! All the work I do saving imbeciles from themselves (just look at how well Fish is doing - he\'s nearly at his 3rd star at McDonalds now), and helping those with alternative sexualities come out (come on now Max, people will understand about the sandpaper and the oven cleaner, once the scars heal) and STILL people refuse to let one incident rest - esp when I\'ve done soooo many more stupid things.
Right, one last time.
I had read somewhere that loosening the glue holding the air con control decals to the dash with heat stops things breaking. So i put the dash with the decals into the oven for supposedly only a few minutes. 20 mins later, the decals had come loose but, strangely, the dash wasn\'t quite the same shape. It was a litle molten and a little bubbly... And it was easy to remove the plastic from the grill - wait until it hardens, then it just snaps off. Andrew at Jimmy\'s still knows it\'s me everytime I phone...
((by the way, did anyone notice how alleged-moderator Fish took this to a totally irrelevant offtopic conversation. Kinda makes you wonder about the credibility of the moderators...))
Back on topic... :)
From - http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil.html
Testing Slick 50 and STP
We also tested Slick 50 and STP Engine Treatments and STP Oil Treatment, each in three cabs. (Slick 50 costs $17.79 per container; STP Engine Treatment has been discontinued.) All three boast that they reduce engine friction and wear.
The engine treatments are added with the oil (we used Pennzoil 10W-30). They claim they bond to engine parts and provide protection for 25,000 miles or more. We used each according to instructions.
The STP Oil Treatment is supposed to be added with each oil change. It comes in one formulation (black bottle, $4.32) for cars with up to 36,000 miles, another (blue bottle, $3.17) for cars that have more than 36,000 miles or are more than four years old. We used the first version for the first 36,000 miles, the second for the rest of the test ---- again, with Pennzoil 10W-30.
When we disassembled the engines and checked for wear and deposits, we found no discernible benefits from any of these products.
The bottom line: We see little reason why anyone using one of today\'s high-quality motor oils would need these engine/oil treatments. One notable effect of STP Oil Treatment was an increase in oil viscosity; it made our 10W-30 oil act more like a 15W-40, a grade not often recommended. In very cold weather, that might pose a risk of engine damage.