Er, I was giving it a bit tonight, but not too much, as I have a firing problem at high revs (5500+) which i think is dodgy spark plugs, but I accidentally made it lurch and misfire by pushing it too hard, it did it quite badly, and now it idles at 400-500rpm and sounds like its missing a cylinder, or whatever the rotary equivalent is.
The best way to describe it is it now sounds like a chugging tractor on idle.
Have I broke my new toy?
Afraid to say it but it sounds like you\'ve lost a rotor (i.e. you\'re running on 1 not both).
Could also be the map sensor (on the bulkhead above the oil filter) - if the vacuum hose has popped off you can get really rough running but it sounds more like you\'ve bust a tip...
Get it to a rotary specialist and they\'ll be able to give you the full sp.
Nooooooooo!
Its going to Re:worx on friday, looks like i better wrap it in bubble wrap till then. Nuts.
I think you have broken an apex seal. In fact I am allmost certain you have.
This would mean a full rebuild I\'m afraid. :(
What modifications did it have?
Quote from: dandanNooooooooo!
Its going to Re:worx on friday, looks like i better wrap it in bubble wrap till then. Nuts.
Nooooooooooo! Didnt we have the \'take it easy til then\'-conversation the other day?
Bad man Dan! Fingers crossed its not the dreaded already :(
All the best mate,
Rich
Take it easy and RX7 are two things that really dont go together very well.
Sorry to hear about your misfortune, i am sure you will soon have it fixed and back on the road again, even if your wallet is a bit lighter :)
Sorry to hear mate,sounds expensive im afraid.
Hope you get it sorted
I genuinely wasn\'t pushing it that hard (for an RX), but the stutter was happening at lower and lower revs and with less boost, so maybe it was a matter of time.
Thing is, it was rebuilt by WGT only 12months ago, so something major really shouldn\'t go so soon surely? The previous owner had it rebuilt but surely WGT would be keen to keep their reputation by helping to sort it if I spoke to them? The one year warranty ran out in June but I do have proof of posts on this site in mid june mentioning the problem.
I will take it to Re:worx, see what they say, and then go from there i suppose. Is there no chance a stutter could just be totally dead spark plugs? please say it could!
dammit my £1000 reserve fund just isn\'t going to make a dent in this one...
I don\'t want to rag on you or be an a$$hole about this in your time of pain but if you\'d:
- had advice (even low-key) to take it easy until a known problem was sorted
- noticed it getting progressively worse
You should either have not driven it or kept well off boost (which is nigh on impossible as it\'s frustrating as hell).
Loads of possible reasons for stutter under high rpms from dirty plugs to detonation, fuelling issies (blocked filter, knackered pump, etc). Engine death from those would probbaly not be covered under warranty anyway as they\'re not somethign a engine builder can control.
When I had mine rebuilt by WGT the warranty was 12k or 12 months - whichever came 1st. I\'m on 20k miles now and it\'s been bullet proof but I know Pip is a fair person and having a conversation with him might be a good starting point. I would doubt he\'d be prepared to work on the engine after it\'d been pulled apart by someone else so talk to him before re:worx do any more than identify the problem.
Here\'s hoping it\'s something cheap to fix!
hmm, this sounds like a scary thread, when I start my car in the morning Ive started to get a grinding loudish noise... after Ive done a few hundred yds in it alls fine again and it seems OK.... just when I start it sounds a little dodgy, as if theres a fan on or a pump whining... if that makes sence! also when the second turbo kicks in I sometimes get lots of hesitation or missing but thats only say once out of 10 times I boot it, I know its due some spark plugs though, hoping to get it done soon.
ohh and a co-incidence is that this motor was rebuilt just over 12 months ago by WGT too.... lol
All your advice is totally fair Iain,
I know I should really have just kept the thing in the garage until i got it checked out as soon as i realised the problem, but I have only had it for about 2 weeks now, after waiting over 18 months without a car. What are the chances of me keeping it locked away, lets be honest.
The problem only got progressively worse while driving last night, so i was taking it easier and easier and it still stuttered then started idling funny.
Looks like I might be paying for the previous owner\'s ignorance of rotary engines, as I haven\'t even had the thing long enough to mistreat it!
Well if i do end up shelling out, hopefully it will be a relatively cheap rebuild, what with it only being a year out of the last rebuild, many re-useable parts hopefully, and on the bright side, then at least i KNOW the engine will be ok!
Well i\'m off to find a rope and an oak tree, can everyone cross their fingers for me please?
duuude I\'m gutted for you.
I told you that the boost cut would blow your engine if you let it keep happening, you really gotta take care if things aren\'t right or you\'re gonna end up with a big problem instead of a little one.
You\'ve detonated and lot a rotor.
Hope it\'s not too expensive, why not take the opportunity to get some other stuff done while the lump is out?
dandan - fingers crossed. Its only that the symptoms you have provided point to engine failure caused by detonation. It was was stuttering badly at even low revs. Prehaps car was in limp mode. It may have got a bit too hot to handle. Standard intercooler? When you do start it up, does it lose all power slowly and die out or is the idling steady at 500rpm? What fuel were you using? What modifications? It all helps.
Where are you based? The availability of re useable parts is down to what type of a rebuild it had the last time.
davegttph1 - Change Plugs! :)
Hope its sorted soon. I know how you feel, watching the rx broken is never nice.
I\'ve just spoken to Geoff at Re:worx who said it really could be any number of things, I will find out on Friday, but he did say that if it is a rebuild then the fact that it was recently rebuilt should keep the cost down, so Oedipus, I will take a look at putting some shiny goodies in while the motor is out.
I will try to describe what happened as precisely as possible, see what you think.
Pulled onto an A road, 3/4 throttle which never usually results in stutter, 2nd gear was ok, got to 3rd and it stuttered at 5500-6000rpm. so i lifted off and dropped into 4th then 5th to cruise.
After roundabout, pulled away in 2nd at probably 1/2 throttle, it stuttered really badly at about 4000 rpm so i lifted right off and cruised very carefully to the pub in 4th/5th.
maneuvering in the car park i noticed a low, irregular idle, sitting in the car felt like sitting on a washing machine due to vibrations of 400-500rpm.
2 hours later started up fine but still idled low, drove VERY carefully home, where it possibly idled a tiny bit higher, but there was a regular \'ticking\' noise from under the car, probably about 100ticks per min and it was still vibrating a lot.
switched it off and went to look for my wallet which had scarpered in abject fear.
thats about it. if it sounds like a rotor tip, no need to tell me that, but if it sounds like it could be something else, give me a shout.
Nearly forgot, tuned by panspeed in japan, although standard ecu, optimax fuel, BIG intercooler, no overheating problems, was running 82ish deg.
Freddy, changing very soon, infact gonna try book it in today. I hear theyre a pain to do yourself? is there a guide on here to doing it? could save me a few bob and alot of travel time to get to a specialist if I could do it myself. PLus I was hoping to run the car at santa pod a week on saturday, needs to be done for then
hi-jacking thread.
Turned into a TRACTOR - ooops
Mine sounds like one and has done for a while now although it seems to be running ok as it pulls quickly with no hesitation, normal boost pattern, starts ok hot or cold.
I changed my outlet gaskets (block to manifold and manifold to turbo) as i thought i was getting blow by, fixed a pinhole leak in the mid section of the exhaust but the noise is still there. My mates all think its a gasket somewhere but none of us can locate it. Maybe i have lost a tip. would i still get proper boost etc if its broke.
a short while before the \'blowing noise\' occured (which started quietly and has gotten slightly louder since) i let my battery go flat and the car was running in limp home mode.
I knew nothing of \'limp home mode\' and spent days trying to find the reason why it wouldn\'t boost beyond 0.4 psi and felt like it had hit a brick wall.
would that have been fuel cut, could that have caused me to loose a tip/seal/rotor
and have i lost all the skin off my knuckles for nothing (don\'t forget dropping the car on my arm in the process aswell)
Cheers
Dropping the car on your arm!? :eek:
yep
i did it (call me plank)
had car on axle stands fitting rear wheel and the car stand collapses crushing my left forearm between the top of the drivers side rear wheel and the rear wheel arch. its suprising how much you can compress flesh before it splits!
you can all see my scar at JAE
ouch, similar thing happened to my friend at work, had his finger in between a suspension spring for a rail wagon when the jack slipped, flat finger!
oouch that gotta hurt
Ow!
Ok, if we\'re talking embarrasing things, then....
While i had my gearbox out, i thought i\'d drain the oil. So i stuck the gearbox on my front step and a trolley jack, and stuck a contained underneath it. I then went at the drain plug with a 3 foot knuckle and started undoing it. I was there for a couple of minutes wondering why it hadn\'t come off yet. I looked at it at it was still flush with the base plate of the gearbox - turned out, cos i was doing it from above, i had turned it the wrong way and stripped the thread out! doh!
Fortunately, it\'s only a plate that makes up the gearbox, so i was lucky enough to find RX Motors were willing to strip a broken gearbox for me for that plate! It arrived yesterday and now i can complete the putting back together of my rex!
Sorry - long story!
Quote from: dandanNearly forgot, tuned by panspeed in japan, although standard ecu, optimax fuel, BIG intercooler, no overheating problems, was running 82ish deg.
These 2 combined could be a problem-in-waiting. In Japan they use 100RON fuel. Here, at best, we have 97/98RON. Could well be a fuelling related issue but I wouldn\'t expect detonation to happen at 1/2 trottle. Lets hope it\'s something simple.
Usually the stock ECU can cope with any 2 out of de-cat, cat-back and induction.
If you want to do all 3 or enlarge the intercooler you need an aftermarket ECU as minimum. If you\'ve got a big i/c and the other mods then you\'ll almost certainly need to uprate the fuelling side too (pump, pressure regulator and secondary injectors)..!
You\'d also be wise to uprate the ability of the red to shift extra heat generated and the breaks to slow you better...
A systematic approach is pretty important to building a safe rex and it\'s pretty much endless! :D
Yup, i concur with Iain. I have cat back and induction. I want to get a bigger intercooler, and therefore and waiting to get ecu, fuel pump, injectors and regulator.
right, well first of all, can i just say Iain, you appear to be a mechanical guru, if you dont already make a living from all things mechanical, you should do so immediately.
Secondly, i forgot to mention i have a three inch stright through from the manifold, as it is a 92 i dont need the cat.
so you reckon this, along with the large intercooler would require at least an uprated ECU and probably other stuff too? I would agree except the standard ecu was put in place of the panspeed one on the insistence of WGT, saying it would not warranty the rebuild with the panspeed ECU installed.
Surely this means either WGT made a silly mistake in running a standard ECU with other uprated bits, which would suprise me, or there is a british spec uprated ECU under there somewhere? can I see the ECU without ripping the engine to bits to find out? surely if it is a damaged rotor caused by WGT ran a standard ECU it\'s pretty negligent on their part? i\'m only assuming things, no blame is being made here, just thinking out loud. any comments?
Well, i\'d like to know how you knew what temperature your water was running at?
You seem to know it very precisely, which suggests you\'re running it off a hand held device: like the power FC. If it is a hand held device such as the PFC, then you\'re most likely running an uprated ECU. Infatc, if it is the PFC, you\'d be running the Apex\'i ECU and power FC.
Quote from: dandanright, well first of all, can i just say Iain, you appear to be a mechanical guru, if you dont already make a living from all things mechanical, you should do so immediately.
Secondly, i forgot to mention i have a three inch stright through from the manifold, as it is a 92 i dont need the cat.
so you reckon this, along with the large intercooler would require at least an uprated ECU and probably other stuff too? I would agree except the standard ecu was put in place of the panspeed one on the insistence of WGT, saying it would not warranty the rebuild with the panspeed ECU installed.
Surely this means either WGT made a silly mistake in running a standard ECU with other uprated bits, which would suprise me, or there is a british spec uprated ECU under there somewhere? can I see the ECU without ripping the engine to bits to find out? surely if it is a damaged rotor caused by WGT ran a standard ECU it\'s pretty negligent on their part? i\'m only assuming things, no blame is being made here, just thinking out loud. any comments?
If you have a large straight though and a large intercooler, I would say you definitely ned an aftermarket ECU. With no backpressure on the system and nothing to control the boost, chances are it would
a) run lean
b) boost would go through the roof.
Causing detonation on 2 fronts.
1. the stock ECU would boost cut when the boost went over stock (which it would
2. The engine running lean due to not being mapped for your modifications.
I know this because it happened to me. First boost cut and I didn;t drive it again until I had an PFC in there.
I\'m very surpised that Pip would send a car out like that to be honest, I\'ve always found him to be over cautious if anything.
Getting to the ECU is easy, you want to take off the trim in the passenger footwell, that is on the wall of the car, just engine side of the door. It unclips pretty easy and gives you direct access to the ecu.
I suspect it os an after market ECU. Maybe it\'s not, but how is the coolant temp going to be known so precisely - not the stock temp gauge, that\'s for sure! Maybe an after market gauge i suppose, but i still reckon its after market ECU. As like you say, Pip would never let that go out with those mods and a standard ECU.
Quote from: dandanright, well first of all, can i just say Iain, you appear to be a mechanical guru, if you dont already make a living from all things mechanical, you should do so immediately.
Just regurgitating what I\'ve learned from people who know their stuff - posts on here and FDUK, conversations with tuners and people who know rotaries. I\'m no mechanic or tuner and should probably stay doing what I know well - being an IT prostitute (er, contractor!).
Quote from: dandanSecondly, i forgot to mention i have a three inch stright through from the manifold, as it is a 92 i dont need the cat.
so you reckon this, along with the large intercooler would require at least an uprated ECU and probably other stuff too?
From what I know you\'d need aprogrammable ECU for that lot
Quote from: dandanI would agree except the standard ecu was put in place of the panspeed one on the insistence of WGT, saying it would not warranty the rebuild with the panspeed ECU installed.
The panspeed ECU is (I think) a pre-programmed chip that would suit their mods on their 100RON fuel.
I wouldn\'t imagine Pip warrantying the engine on a stock Mazda ECU with those upgrades any more than he would the Panspeed ECU. In all liklihood (as Nik mentioned) you will have the Apexi ECU (and possibly the commander that displays information on it).
Quote from: dandanSurely this means either WGT made a silly mistake in running a standard ECU with other uprated bits, which would suprise me, or there is a british spec uprated ECU under there somewhere? can I see the ECU without ripping the engine to bits to find out? surely if it is a damaged rotor caused by WGT ran a standard ECU it\'s pretty negligent on their part? i\'m only assuming things, no blame is being made here, just thinking out loud. any comments?
I would think (although not being a lawyer or knowing all the facts, this is speculation), that the car - on a stock ECU - would be runnign at risk.
You can see the ECU by removing the plastic covering from the left hand side of the passenger footwell. I would expect you to find the Apexi unit in there as WGT do know their stuff and Pip wouldn\'t risk a warranty claim on that spec with stock ECU
I\'m assuming all this was done by the previous owner? You could always ask them or WGT about the history.
Iain
well i know the temp so precisely only from a well incremented after market gauge in the double din slot.
As far as the PFC goes, the only apexi kit I have is an apexi manual turbo timer which looks a bit cheap and cheerful, i assume the PFC is some sort of in car data display and adjuster? i definately dont have one. kind of wish i did though.
I knew that modifying one part of a rotary, (or any engine for that matter) requires modification in other areas, but the car seemingly had such a good pedigree that i assumed it was all well matched.
I will take a peek at the ecu tonight, and check out the WGT receipts i have, i must be missing something, as everyone says, this Pip guy seems pretty dependable.
who knows, i might get to Reworx and they will tell me it is a popped hose or something! thanks a lot for all the help though peeps! i\'ll keep you all updated, can\'t leave you on a cliffhanger like this!
From a good source within Panspeed. Their mapping is excellent. Recently I had taken a car for Apexi power fc and re map. It was running a stock ecu and F con V pro tinkered with by Panspeed.
We had the car on the rollers and realised it was running perfectly well on optimax and jap spec ecu set up. Car made 360 at the hubs. No power fc needed and no re map. The panspeed ecu may well have been equipped to take on mods you have. However, the standard ecu probably did not register most of the modifications done to the car. I would highly doubt that the ecu in the car is stock if Pip at WGT ordered for it to be. I also doubt you had over boosted. Just how much fuel were you on when this happened? Attached picture shows somewhat the location of the ECU. If you remove the trim which is under the glove box and runs besides the passenger door speaker. You can see the ECU located behind it. Take a picture or let us know what it says if anything.on the ECU.
davegttph1 - Changing plugs is relatively easy. You could do it from above with the option of throttle body hardpipe taken off. Or if you could get access to a ramp. Then changing from under, is easier. I personally dont think any is worse than the other. Both will ensure you knuckles get scratched. :)
I aint you beat me to it. :)
Have a check up on the receipts/ecu and keep us all updated.
Good luck.
Quote from: FreddyFrom a good source within Panspeed. Their mapping is excellent. Recently I had taken a car for Apexi power fc and re map. It was running a stock ecu and F con V pro tinkered with by Panspeed.
We had the car on the rollers and realised it was running perfectly well on optimax and jap spec ecu set up. Car made 360 at the hubs. No power fc needed and no re map.
What does \'perfectly well\' mean? It felt good and fuel-ing was on the money A/F-wise according to the lambda plot? Did whomever was dyno-ing the car have F-Con s/ware with which to interrogate the map in more detail? My point is, in saying every thing was running perfectly - have you any idea what the ignition timing was like for example? I have no doubt that Panspeed know their nuts (one of my fave lot), but if you are basing perfection on feel and just A/F and power plots from a dyno its a bit of a stab in the dark as to whether the car is running safely in UK conditions IMO...
Calm down Rich.
All information was provided by Panspeed in respect of ignition timing.
In light of running perfectly well. The mixture was nice and rich. There were no real dets to worry about. Map details were also recieved by fax.
Dyno\'d by Pip.
Quote from: FreddyCalm down Rich.
All information was provided by Panspeed in respect of ignition timing.
In light of running perfectly well. The mixture was nice and rich. There were no real dets to worry about. Map details were also recieved by fax.
Dyno\'d by Pip.
I was calm mate:yes
Being assured of the timing by the horses mouth negates the main reason for my post - which was just pointing out that a dyno run indicating healthy AF\'s doesnt mean its necessarily safe. We see plenty of dead cars with ecu\'s like these on at the workshop (hence we have loads of them kicking about), a lot would be dead whatever they had on granted - and there\'s no way to say if the map was at fault without the appropriate equipment and software (I asked if the operator had the software, not who the operator was ;)). At the end of the day, you makes your choices and take your chances; I actually had a chipped RE-Amemiya ecu in my car for 15 months, it went real quick and spiked and crept its tits off all the time - but it never blew up in 20,000 miles :3gears-rh
Just completeing the picture mate :D
easy chaps! didn\'t mean to open any worm cans.
I know its not running the panspeed ECU cos i have that in a box, i got the panel off and had a look at the ecu, i can upload a photo in the morning but the code on it was as follows:
N3A7
EGI
N3A7 18 881A
0797003874
Looks pretty standard, little tiny Denso logo in the bottom corner of the sticker.
Got to be a standard one, right?
No worm cans Dan, just open discussion - nothings ever black and white, eh?
Yep, sounds like a stocker mate. Fingers crossed for compression test on Friday! It will either be :( / :guinness or :3gears-lh :D
nothing like a bit of free exchange of ideas i suppose!
Thats a very good point though, can we have lager standing by on friday, for medicinal purposes?
The fridge is ALWAYS stocked Danny boy!
Lol, nice one!
Just spoke to the previous owner, he has sent the reciepts etc in the post, i was so excited when i bought the car i forgot to get all of the paperwork off him. (oops)
He says it was all modified before he even bought it, so when it was rebuilt it was in exactly the same state of modification as it is now.
big intercooler and 3inch straight through exhaust means if the ECU is standard, someone has messed up somewhere.
I have resigned myself to assuming I will have to shell out for the re-build ( plus a few, ahem, ESSENTIAL shiny bits possibly) so if it is not a worst case scenario, it will all be a bonus in my mind.
"you mean it will ONLY cost £1000 to fix? Brilliant!"
Roll on Friday, thats all i can say.
fingers crossed for you buddy , hope it isn\'t the worst but if it is look on the bright side your power to weight ratio will be greatly increased due to an empty wallet ;) ( sorry shouldn\'t mock )
Good luck today, hope the open cheque book surgery goes without too much pain :)
***UPDATE***UPDATE***
Ok well the car made it Re:worx this morning, turns out it has had quite a life, uprated susp bushes, evidence of a previous single turbo conversion (relocated air vaccuum box or something) all sorts of strange stuff.
Chirs did a compression test just as Geoff walked in the door and Geoff immediatley shouted out \'you\'ve lost a rotor\', he could tell from across the workshop, it was that obvious.
The rear rotor is well strong, but the front is totally broke and there are oil leaks around the turbo\'s so I might need to replace them too.
Worst case i\'m looking at around £3000, but hopefully with the recent rebuild i shouldnt need to replace the rotor housing and a few other bits.
That price includes an Apexi PFC too which means this shouldn\'t happen again.
As far as we can tell, Pip at WGT must have fitted the standard ecu to run the car in, and the owner never took it back to get it uprated, so the car has been running bad all this time, my luck that it breaks 2 weeks after i buy it!
They said that when running good, with the setup it has, it probably has about 300 RWHP, so the question is, while it is out, do i get them to port it? its tempting. Suppose i should wait and see what the price will be first.
All get well cards can be sent to Dandan\'s REX, c/o Reworx.
All wreaths and messages of condolence can be sent to Dandan\'s wallet, c/o dandan\'s back pocket, i\'m afraid he didn\'t make it through.
Get it ported mate if its something you want done, no point having the engine out again in a years time or something just to get it done :)
I can recommend a good plastic surgeon that should be able to help your wallet, Dr Egg :D
Dr Egg has been previously consulted and is refusing to operate any further, luckily I consulted Dr\'s Virgin and HSBC and they were happy to get their scalpels out, and Professor Alliance and Doc Leicester handed them the swabs and stuff.
He might just pull through.
Regarding the porting, its a really good starting point for future mods, right? I just know if i dont do it now, it wont be long before i will want more power and then it will cost me loads more.
Although, my Rex isnt a total minter, so if i want faster i could sell it in the future and get a cleaner, faster one? saving £500 odd quid now sounds good to me really, plus if it isnt ported it might be ready to run in time for JAE! yay.
lol :D
Im very much an opportunist modder, i.e if something breaks i\'ll replace it with something better, or if im doing one job that makes another bit easy to get at i\'ll do that too (provided there are enough doctors on standby), having a rebuild is just the perfect oppourtunity for porting :D If I was in same position, and I could get the extra £500 i\'d def have it done....but the choice is yours :D
But if I werent sure on if I was keeping it would be a different story...
Give a damn good porting, you know you want to really!
yup port the hell out of the bugger.
I suggest J
\'PORT IT! PORT IT NOW!!! MORE POWER, BWAH HA HA HAHA!!\'
glad to see everyone is seeing both sides of the issue, considering all angles and options.
It was probably a stupid question to ask on an enthusiast website, I mean how many people on here have standard Rex\'s?
QuoteI mean how many people on here have standard Rex\'s?
lol, good point, although perhaps subconciously you knew this and knew posting a question like this would convince you to get it done...
PORT IT PORT IT PORT IT PORT IT PORT IT PORT IT PORT IT
Bridge at the very minimum
Go on get it done , you\'ll regret it if you don\'t
Besides it wont be long before you want more power anyway , I thought I\'d be happy with the power mine had for quite a while but I must have had it for about a month before I started looking at things to do to squeeze a few more horses
To port or not to pot. That is NOT the question. Are you man enough - that is the question ;)
Shame it\'s bad news dan, these things happen. Any recourse on the original owner?
If you don;t get it ported now you\'ll be limiting the potential power, depending on where you want to go in future...
Iain
Unlucky Dan ,
I popped a rotor about a month ago , however i had my rx for 2 years and its finnaly given in , however im well over the 60K area more like 70/75 so its had a good run.
Its a very sad moment when it happens but you know that once its rebuilt you have a warranty and piece of mind i guess.
Im going down the Street port and FMIC route as i allready have the PFC and stuff so it should be a bit better when i finnaly get it back on the road :)
Am I man enough Iain? How can i say no to the porting now?! just hope the wallet can hold out.
As far as the previous owner goes, it seems he didn\'t get the ECU changed after running in as he would have been advised to do by pip at WGT, so that was his choice, and its my stupid fault for not comp testing it i guess. the recent rebuild reciept convinced me i had found a good one, when in fact i had not.
There is a lesson to be learned here, it doesnt matter what reciepts a car has, get some readings done yourself or you never know when it is going to bite you in the balls.
Quote from: dandanAm I man enough Iain? How can i say no to the porting now?! just hope the wallet can hold out.
As far as the previous owner goes, it seems he didn\'t get the ECU changed after running in as he would have been advised to do by pip at WGT, so that was his choice, and its my stupid fault for not comp testing it i guess. the recent rebuild reciept convinced me i had found a good one, when in fact i had not.
There is a lesson to be learned here, it doesnt matter what reciepts a car has, get some readings done yourself or you never know when it is going to bite you in the balls.
and even if you do you could still end up in trouble. You could have it comp tested with good results and the water seals give up on you in a month.
Buying a Rex is a risk. You can manage that risk but never eliminate it.
Wise man say:
"you want RX7 that not break? you no drive it"
I think i\'ll just put mine on a trailer and use my dad\'s mondeo to pull it between shows, it\'ll be the most reliable Rex in the world!
Sorry mate it won\'t work , the curse of the RX7 will cause the trailer to break :eek:
ITS COMING BACK EARLY NEXT WEEK!!!!
How excited am i? Answers on a postcard.
I\'ve been promised the car will be back in my clutches early next week, this has been the longest few weeks of my life! Can\'t wait to get a car back that is going to be about as reliable as a rex can be, with tens of thousands of miles of potential rotor exploding-free driving ahead! Woo Hoo!
:):):):):):):)
Can we kick-off a poll mid-thread? We could list the types of port available for people to chose... street port, bridge port... any more?
Personally I wouldn\'t port it, but I just like to be different :cool
Cheers
Jon
been without mine for 3 months feels like years :(
Good news Dan!!!
Be good to see your car in the flesh!
Rich
You\'re not wrong there Tricky!
Gonna take it down to \'burnin bournemouth\' at Matchems, Ringwood next sunday to scare some chavs, sad but i\'m going anyway! I\'m an attention seeking, maladjusted young man, plus i\'m single so you never know your luck. ;)
Thanks again for showing me your lambo doors Rich, I\'ll have something to show you next time!
you know once you get your car back you\'ll be able to get your graphics done :cool
I know Tintin, I can\'t wait!
The graphics are all ready and waiting, a couple of evenings of graft should see it sorted, the big question is will it look any good?!
Cant wait to see what it looks like with the graphics on, should be :cool !
Give me a shout when you get the motor back. Be good to compare cars :p
Rich