After giving the rex (3rd gen) a blast on saturday I noticed after I backed off and the car settled down again I saw an intake temp on my FC of 72degrees max. that is what I consider to be scarily hot and being a tuning guy at heart wouldnt mind looking into a FMIC.... plus they look the nuts too behind an open front bumper. the price on leading manufacterers is quite scary considering to be honest.
Coming from the reno 5 world I actually made my own FMIC and pipe work set up on the 5 and it worked a treat with a huge increase in torque. is there anything that should be took into consideration if I wanted to do the same on the rex? rather than fork out £1000ish on an intercooler with some pipe work I think is on the steep side....
just looking into a few ideas and being new to the rex I dont want to think beyond my means if you know what I mean.
cheers for any replies :)
Well, due to the price of branded FMICs i think you could probably make yourself a nice sideline of a business if your diy one works!
Well if you are looking to go the DIY route for an FMIC then check this out on ebay, might be exactly what you are looking for.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=72205&item=7983319295&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
yeah its the sort of route Im looking at. Has anyone else had a go at it yet? Id be interested in others experience.
the IC wont be hard to source, been there done that. piping etc should be OK too providing I can work out a good route for it all :)
can anyone see any potentiol pit falls?
be very carefull with this the rex runs very hot and as such any intercooler will have to have good thru flow characteristics or u will see sky high water temps..not all intercoolers will have this compared to the aps one i had on my scooby the apexi is a monster with huge fins and bars
So its more to do with the flow through for air to get to the radiator then than anything else?
It does seems a strange set up for the IC and Rad to sit behind each other the way they do on a car thats as wide as it is, presume its down to the front end shape than anything else
i would say the flow thru is more important as u can allways add water injection to cool the charge ur rad needs that air
OK fair enough.... so theres no way of maybe adding a thinner (in terms of height) IC and fitting it fairly low in the bumper (I have the vielside combat kit so plenty of open space there) leaving "flow" above the IC to provide for the rad?
sorry if Im sucking eggs here but Im just throwing ideas about as Id be serious about having a go but dont wish to make it worse rather than improve it
u wld have to ask one of the tuners about that one it wld be an expensive trial to fit and then find no improvement to ur intake temps..
Dave - you could look into a v-mount setup where both rad and IC get cold air. This is tricky to fit with a twin setup though as there\'s not much space for the air filters...
yeah Ive just spent a short while reading older threads on a similar subject. I refuse to spend £1000 on an IC and some pipe work ;) SO it makes more sense to try and have a crack, Im getting more and more worried about my own car now reading the older threads, people complaining about 35-40degree temps. I WISH :( mines at least 40 and goes up to 60 very regually. I dont really put my foot down if it gets to mid 50\'s but if I put my foot down and its reading say 47. by the time Ive covered a quarter mile I\'ll be touching 60....
btw Im running .85bar, I guess this is why my temps seem higher than average?
whats std boost pressure for a rex?
Sorry for all the questions, like I say still on a learning curve with these things :)
u really shd be looking at water injection..//www.coolingmist.com do very good set ups over here geff at rewoex does a very similar set up with a big pump this will alleviate ur high intake temps
Yeah thought of WI, never been a great fan of it myself. didnt think it did too much for many R5 owners in the past. Take it the rex gets along well with it?
WI works really well on rexs I hear. In terms of the FMIC, air flow to rad is fairly important, however your suggestion regarding a lower placement should do the trick. The v-mount setup consists of having the rad at the bottom and IC at the top, with the highest point of the IC and lowest point of the rad at the front end and joining together in the middle towards the engine. Between the two is a \'splitter\' which, in some cases, can be moved on the fly to provide more air to IC or rad as required.
Anyway, point is, if you mount it lower and leave a gap for air to rad over the top I would probably stick a little \'box/edge\' (for want of a better word) around the IC to stop the air simple bouncing off the front and running around the top and sides. Clear as mud?
HTH
H
makes sense, had a proper gander under the bonnet when I got hom earlier and think that the IC at the bottom of the bumper might provide quite a long run of pipe work which Im not keen on (increasing lag etc) there isnt much room to work with in there is there. might be a day job of strip the engine bay down and see what goes where a little better and re think it all out.
might be a no go-er though and if WI is getting good reviews I migt have to have a chat to pip in the next week or so.