right then - gonna fit my decat pipe ( turbo end )
took off the rear under tray - that was the easy bit
the bottom nut on the turbo was finger tight - so that came off no probs
NOW THEN - how the hell do you get the other 2 nuts off ??
i can get my hands to them and thats it - no real room in there for a spanner or a ratchet
gonna try and get the heat sheild off to see if that makes life easier
but apart from that - im lost
HELP
ta
stu / grinder
I had mine done recently at nemesis and watched while kevin battled with it for two hours (said it was the worst job he\'s ever had to do).
From memory he went in from the top after removing the air intakes and dump valve then used a stubby rachet with plenty of oxy/acetylene on the nuts.
Apparently trying to remove them without heat can cause the nuts to shear and then needing the manifold restudded.
Hope thats of some help I may be wrong as im no expert but its a job I\'m
glad i did\'nt at home.
Cheers Danny
He he. You big girl. ;)
The only one thats a bit of a pain to get at is the top inner one (Engine side) and as i\'ve said before its worth the extra time removing the upper inlet (or at least the IC) to get at. When i changed Jon\'s Turbo i removed it with all the Inlet etc still on and you couldnt even see the thing. Just don\'t drop anything into the inlet.
My advice is remove anything that will give you a bit more space (Bonnet?Ic and Uper manifold) this will make you life alot easyer (just take a little longer to do) then have a good look at the Top outer nut (closest to the Iner wing) you should get a good idea of the stupid heat sheald etc round it.
Another tip would be to leave the outer one tight while undoing the Iner nut this way it will not have the weight of the Down pipe on it so you will be able to spin it off whith your fingures then undo the easyer one.
Chris
thanks for the advice chaps
i can see both nuts just fine - looks like the heat shield on top of the cat has been already removed
its really annoying when you can see something and cant really get to it - i suppose it didnt help doing it at 22:30 last night in the dark !! LOL
so taking the IC off will give me more space - im happy to go down that route rather then struggling !!
the plan so far is :
1 - remove the heat shield round the turbo
2 - phone chris and get him to come and help !! LOL
3 - after chris politely refuses..
4 - i reckon getting the shield off will be problematic enough
5 - once thats off i should bebale to get to the top not ( wing side ) pretty easy
6 - remove IC if it comes to that
7 - try and get the other nut
8 - check gaskets to make sure they are ok
9 - and im hoping rebuilding it is easier than removing it
i will keep you all posted
thanks
stu
I\'ll swap. I\'m moving all the stuff from the house move from the ground floor to the Third floor (after being put off for two weeks and living in the garage :))
Knackered!!! Two days of running up and down stairs, o well should be done today.
Anyway have fun with your DP mate. Trust me when you get it off its like a 10min job to fit the new one back.
Hey STu, when you take your IC off, mail me the bolts pls :D
right then - the turbo end is loose now ! ( 2 out of the 3 were finger tight - which is a bit worrying )
i cant seem to budge the 2 nuts that connect to the main exhaust - they are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO tight
i think this has beaten me - gonna ring the exhaust place in town and see if they can spin the nuts off with what they use and put them back on spanner tight
will update again soon
Stu
( would have taken pics - but they are all toooo dark and you cant see anything - sorry chaps )
There always the ones that are Tight. Try getting a combi spanner (ring one end and open the other) that fits well then get another spanner that is a size bigger then with the Spanner on the Exhast nut and lots of WD40 on it put the second spanner\'s ring end over the open end of the first spanner (the leading fork when turning Anti clockwise), Then making sure its all on properly and square give the open side of the second spanner some beans.
If you understand all this you will effectivly get twice the leveridge (Spelling?) and it would have to be a VERY tight bolt for say a 17mm with a 24" lever. The trick if you can\'t get all this under the car is to put the spanner on, Jam a second one on the other side of the Bolt (so it pushes against the floor and wont turn) then get in a position where you can use a foot to push the spanner. Theory is your legs can exert alot more force than your Arms.
Chris
BTW. this may not make sence as i\'ve just woken up and havn\'t put my contacts in yet.
its worse than that chaps !
the cat is now in the garage !! - yippee
ERRR NO !
having done the leg trick ( before i read this !! ) - sheared on of the bolts on the exhaust - and the other one looks like there is no thead left on it
so i need to get them out SOMEHOW ! - damn these cars to hell - car is now stuck on the drive with no way of moving it
i would take another section of exhaust off to get at it but i dont want this to happen again - and all this AFTER i took it to the exhaust place for them to "break" the nuts looose
so thats it at the mo - one well and truely p****d off stuart :( :( :(
pics to follow around 19:30 tonight
Stu
ok, take it off at the next joint down, then put it in a vice, center punch the Bolt then drill it out and then you can put two bolts through with locking nuts.
Chris
i tried to get the next section off - but that is again stuck on - and i dont want to snap more nuts/studs
teh next plan is to maybe drop the entire exhaust off to see what i can do with it when im not under the car
i just wish i had never started this - but there is no going back as the car cant even be started and driven
HEEEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP
really out of my depth now
the above pic is a full stud - but that one needs to come out aswell
HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP
Get a decent tap and run it down the entire length of the nobbled stud, that should give you enough thread to do what we discussed mate :)
yeah , thats one possibly sorted , its the other i have no idea
do you think its wise to drop the entire exhaust - and work on it in the back garden ???
You just need a stud extractor theres plenty left there to work with. Give the area around the stud a warm with a blow torch, its not as good as oxy/acetalene but should still do the job. If you\'ve not got or can get a decent stud extractor PM your address and i\'ll post one to you.
Kevin
Kevin
You have a PM
ta
stu
Looks like you have plenty to go at ... should come off with a little persuasion. If you have a mig welder weld a large nut to the stud an M10 or somthing like that and put lots of heat into it, not only will you have a nice new nut to swing on but you have also put a sh1t load of heat into that stud
then If the threads are fkd you could always drill them out to a clearance hole and replace them with a bolt, nut and lock washer (much nicer than a stud when working on an exhaust ... snapped bolt = no worries) best check there is room to do that first though (looks alright on the photos tho\')
Good luck !
Blimey, sorry to see you\'re having a mare with the exhaust. If you want a fatty to pop round and swing on it then im your man ! (seriously just say and i\'ll come and have a play :wiggle ). Want to see you at the next nw meet !
Shaun
Yeh, LOTS of heat. But try not to heat the Stud up too much you want the Exhaust part as hot as poss.
If it was me i\'d be going with Mike, get a size bigger nut and weld it on the Stud (give it some juce on the welder) the get a blow torch on the flange next to the stud for a good ten minutes so it is HOT!! then give the Nut some stick. If it dont move it never will and you may have to drill it out.
heating the stud and letting it cool works well too
Yep it expands braking the rust etc. But what i\'m saying is don\'t try it when its still hot as the Stud will be still expanded making it tighter still?
and a lot more likely to break ... steel looses a lot of its strength at those sort of temperatures.
I know what your going through, i had exactly the same problems, so much so, u ended up making a complete new system, including the down pipe, which i am glad about now, but i was intending to use the existing exhaust to save money and time....
I have the whole exhaust if anybody is interested, its not a standard one and has been on the car a while so is showing signs of rust, it has two back boxes with chrome tail pipes, 2 1/4 inch rear section pipe with 2 3/4 mid box, the down pipe is also there which just under 3 inch and bolts to the stock turbo, so there are no cats in it. Its not very noisy as the back boxes are proper thick ones. Dont think about it if you are on a weight saving mission, it will fit straight on, and i\'m only going to throw it away. If someone wants to collect they are welcome to it. There were some holes in it which were fully welded just before i took it off the car. Its free to anyone who can collect....
why are you so bloody far away- gutted :(
well i think the exhaust defo needs to come off
im not taking a welder / blow torch to it under the car
i had a look tonight - and i must say its a cracking system - and really well fitted
thats the main point - there is little play in the rubber hangers - so it will certainly be a challenge to get them off - or put them back on
i think its gonna be a lot easier to play with the exhaust on the patio !!
so....
1 - remove exhaust
2 - weld nut on stud
3 - heat flange ( not stud )
4 - give it some stick
5 - if this fails use the extractors that are in the post
6 - refit exhaust
7 - sit back with a cold one and admire work
sound about right to you guys ??
why is this car so problematic - maybe its just me eh !! ??
and shaun - if you fancy helping - you know where i am !!
thanks chaps
Stu
liking plan number 7--sounds good!!!!best of luck with it matey :guinness
Just add one bit. You want a BIG nut 17mm or somthing like that. Also grind the end of the stud so its nice and clean, Then a good earth as close to the Stud as poss (give that a clean too), if the Nuts Galv\'d you will need to clean some of it off the threads. Clean is GOOD!! ;)
And of course lots of JUICE!!!!!:evillaugh
Chris
Tony, where abouts in essex are you mate? I think I could find a loving home for your exhaust :)
Quote from: grinderwhy are you so bloody far away- gutted :(
well i think the exhaust defo needs to come off
im not taking a welder / blow torch to it under the car
i had a look tonight - and i must say its a cracking system - and really well fitted
thats the main point - there is little play in the rubber hangers - so it will certainly be a challenge to get them off - or put them back on
i think its gonna be a lot easier to play with the exhaust on the patio !!
so....
1 - remove exhaust
2 - weld nut on stud
3 - heat flange ( not stud )
4 - give it some stick
5 - if this fails use the extractors that are in the post
6 - refit exhaust
7 - sit back with a cold one and admire work
sound about right to you guys ??
why is this car so problematic - maybe its just me eh !! ??
and shaun - if you fancy helping - you know where i am !!
thanks chaps
Stu
Well I think you\'ve had some sound advice here from everyone :)
It\'s not just you Stu, it\'s the same with ANY car, especially when they\'re 15 years old :D Been there too many times :rollin: - same fear everytime a bolt is involved. :( If all else fails just carefully drill it (it\'s always just one) and replace!
For the rubber rings - try a bit of washing up liquid - works a treat :D
....Dare I ask is this a permanent de cat solution? You don\'t have to put it back on before the next MOT do you? :eek:
Either ways, if you haven\'t already, invest in a nice tub of Copper grease and smear the bolts thread lightly with it, if you ever think you\'ll need to undo - works a treat :D (Not that it might make much difference on an exhaust as it get\'s so hot there - but you\'ll get a lovely singeing smell for a few drives! LOL :D)
Good luck!
Lynn
:wave:
The workshop is in harlow.
Just off Edinburgh Way. As i said its not in tip top condition but it seems a waste to sling it.
No problem mate, give me a ring closer to the weekend and i\'ll pop up !
Shaun
well its OFF ( the exhaust ) and now in the garage - just needs the studs drilling out and im back in business
:)
any body got any sharp drill bits and drilling experience ?
Stu
Are you in tonight, can come round with some drills and see what we can do !
Give me a ring if you are and i\'ll come lend a hand !
Shaun
i cant get thru to your mobile and dont know your land line number - so i would love to accept - just dont know how to !!
well its all back on the car - just need a new gasket - picking that up tomorrow
It makes one hell of a noise now though - very throaty :)
cat and decat for comparison :
a pic of the snapped stud :
now where does this bit go ?
very nice, did you even think of derusting it ;) Looking very cool. Can\'t wait to hear what it sounds like. Will it affect fueling much ?
Shaun
Just noticed how apt your reg is Stu, how often have you said/shouted/screamed/gurgled \'ARR!\' since owning it!? :rollin
Looking good mate, if I were you I\'d look at finding a Big fat cat or summat to use for MOT time though.
that funny brett !!
im hoping that cause its pre 92 - it wont need cats - and with keeping the air pump on - i should be OK on the emmission side
it better not effect the fueling - only got 200 out of a FULL TANK - very worried about that - i think i will run some injector cleaner thru it !!
and the reg - yeah i can say ARR a lot !! - and my dad pointed out - that my surname is harrison - and the reg is HARR - still debating getting a private plate for it i could do with H666 STU
thanks
stu
( whats all this about derusting - blimey didnt think of that - or how to be honest !! )
Stu cats where only needed from1994 onwards so no problems there. You may as well ditch the air pump as well as it wont make any differance now the cats gone other than making a noise when pumping. Pleased to see you finally got there.
Regards Kevin
Might be worth running it down to the local MOT place and getting them to stick the probe up the exhaust and see what its putting out, that way you can plan ahead if you need to change things for the MOT :)
cunning plan - like it
thanks for the help and advice chaps ( and esp to kevin - for the stud extractor :) )
ta
stu