Any else find them hard to pull off? Im used to getting in a car and being able to nail it in 2nd and when I get to the red line area just throw it into 3rd without thinking about it pretty sharpish, Im finding it a struggle int he rex (hence me not running up the strip at rotorstock yesterday) although if I take my time with the change then it\'ll go in pretty easily.... just cant do a quick shift. obviously this would lose me time on the strip so until Ive got it mastered there isnt much point.
Is it the same on every rex or just mine? its had a new clutch maybe Im doing something wrong but never had the prob with any other cars... managed to get it right this morning on the way to work for the first time but again I took my time with the change rather than throwing it into gear as such
Is it just not going into gear or is it crunching? An engine torque brace can help prevent missed gear changes. Mine crunches like a b*stard going from first to second. Gonna start experimenting with some different oils to see if that cures it.
B & M Short shifter, engine, gearbox and diff brace. It then works. :wave
it crunches... thats what makes me think its my gear changing, reckon I might be lifting the clutch too quickly and its not liking it... could it just be the sync?
when i\'m doing quick changes, it only crunches going from 3rd to 4th. if i depress the clutch pedal further it\'s ok, but that means a relatively long change.
i\'ve thought of the engine/ gearbox/ diff brace, but need to find out if there\'s a problem with the gearbox first. i doubt there is, but it is strange that it only crunches going from 3rd to 4th
Short shifter - solid engine/ dif mounts, engine and g.box braces are needed. You will find by putting the car under stress the engine twists on the stock mounts causing the gear stick to be out of line with the gear gates, causing 5th to be where 3rd usually is:confused:
right, is that alot of work then? I like to think Im fairly competent but to be honest I really canne be bothered working on cars anymore, too busy for that so if its not an expensive job Id get a garage to sort it....
thanks for the comments though guys :)
When i was looking at the solid mounts i asked Geoff about fitting them. As always he told me the facts, even though it would do him out of work/money, he said that they had found that when you are putting down a lot of power on the 1/4 solid mounts can cause the chassie to twist. NOT GOOD. He knew i was serious about giving the 1/4 a real go in a road car and asked me to try out his own diff and gearbox braces as well as recommending the FEED Engine Brace. I took his advice and i can say everything does line up and the only gear changes i\'ve missed were very early on when i was pulling 8500revs first to second gear change. I have sorted that now it was me not the set up. Everything lines up as John YORK says and in she goes. Thats my experience so far and i\'m a novice but in 10 runs i\'ve gone from high 14\'s to 12.9\'s so i know they work.:wave
So, anyone know what the standard gear lever travel is from say 1st to second, in inches? And what would it be with a short shifter?
cheers,
The B & M Short Shifter is said to save you 30% on your shift change. It is a short change. I will be at the Pod on Sunday 19th June at the FDUK stand, try it out then. :wave
I have considered a short shifter in the past but have always been put off due to the fact it feels odd. I dont have one or any extra bracing. Just uprated springs and legs, still with stock diff mounts and a knackered bush somewhere in the rear.
My advice is to practice in every thing you drive.
Scott
My advice too is not to race him ^ (sdminus)
heh heh
Gareth
QuoteOriginally posted by John Yorke
Short shifter - solid engine/ dif mounts, engine and g.box braces are needed. You will find by putting the car under stress the engine twists on the stock mounts causing the gear stick to be out of line with the gear gates, causing 5th to be where 3rd usually is :confused:
This would explain my clutch burning 2nd to 5th gear change the other day then! Where can i get an engine damper brace from, ive done a search & found loads in the USA but none here!
Try Geoff at RE:WORX thats where i got my FEED one well pleased with it.:wave
Out of interest, how much are the feed ones?
this one is attached the tripple in the FD, the engine doesnt move left or right at all and there is no vibration from it either.
It cost a fiver from a bike shop. Its a shock and spring from a mountain bike (incase you hadnt recognised it) Its strong as hell, you cant move it with your hands. and its adjustable, the spring collar is on a thead so can be moved up and down to adjust the strength of the spring.
Thats my tip of the day...... things have to cheap in the rx7 modification world to compensate for the amount of petrol they use....
the feed ones are £190 from reworx but ive seen a few on ebay usa for $65 which is like £35! seems like a bargain even with the $30 for uk delivery charge.
QuoteOriginally posted by John Yorke
Short shifter - solid engine/ dif mounts, engine and g.box braces are needed. You will find by putting the car under stress the engine twists on the stock mounts causing the gear stick to be out of line with the gear gates, causing 5th to be where 3rd usually is:confused:
Aha - this could be why 4th isn\'t quite where I expect it to be sometimes when I\'ve just dropped from 6th or 5th to enter pursuit mode...
Anyone know if the 8 could do with any of this? (Already thinking about short-shifters but if I did ONLY that, might make the problem worse? :confused: )
I\'m reasonably convinced the diff moves around on a hard 2-3 upshift, it just sort of feels like it is doing... any way to identify for sure where the flex is or whether the slight snatchiness is just take-up on the clutch?
QuoteOriginally posted by zevans
Aha - this could be why 4th isn\'t quite where I expect it to be sometimes when I\'ve just dropped from 6th or 5th to enter pursuit mode...
Anyone know if the 8 could do with any of this? (Already thinking about short-shifters but if I did ONLY that, might make the problem worse? :confused: )
I\'m reasonably convinced the diff moves around on a hard 2-3 upshift, it just sort of feels like it is doing... any way to identify for sure where the flex is or whether the slight snatchiness is just take-up on the clutch?
Having only had a \'test\' drive in an 8, not to sure,a short shifter is good [for me] for a fast change, if how ever you are running more than stock power I would have thought you would need some sort of damping to stop the engine / drive train getting out of line - with the \'8\' it is all new.
From what I have seen the engine / rear axle mounts are similar to the 7 so I would imagine you would encounter the same probs.
Some time back I managed to break my power frame (The frame that connects the diff to the gearbox, essentially and gives rigidity).
I fitted an uprated Mazdaspeed power frame, as well as RE Amemiya uprated diff and engine mounts, combined with an engine brace. It hasn\'t suffered from the same problem since - despite repeated hard launches, drifting, etc. Gearchanges are as quick as I can move my arm, when on trackdays, etc.
I did try a short shift kit from RE-Amemiya. Found it to be slower than the standard shift, so I put back the original. Prefer it that way.
Have tried many RX-7\'s and some with short shift kits. Personally, I don\'t rate them. Stick with the original - but beef up your mounts. Fit an engine brace - they\'re cheap. I think //www.neweraparts.com can supply for around £75.00 + Postage.
Here we go with my two penith;)
Personally l don\'t like the engine braces due to the way they can potentially flex the inlet manifold and possibly lead to problems
As for the short shifters, my company sells only the B and M shifter because this is the only one that works and l say this because l paid £250 years ago for a Mazdatrix kit and actually put it in the bin because all it did was make gearchange stiff and difficult to hit the right gear !
The B and M actually replaces the whole top gearchange turret assembly rather than others that just try and move the pivot point to shorten the throw, the gear change on my car now feels how a sports cars should rather than feeling like an old Massy Ferguson tractor\'s gearchange.
The main problem l have found is that if you use far to many revs unnessaceraly, you will then find you can\'t engage the next gear up !!
(you only are revving the engine out after you have reached Max power and Torque and stop proper forward momentum after that )
then find they can\'t engage the next gear up !!
( sorry about the advert thing above but it\'s just sharing info)