Anyone removed their airpump?
Mines decatted and there is no use for it but does it weigh enough to go through the hassle of removing it. Wont be a hard job and will free up some space in the engine bay, but if it only ways a few feathers will leave it be!
It takes 10 minutes max to remove it.....
Get rid of it........... :)
I\'d say if you have a twin Alt pulley and a block off plate get rid but it makes absolutly no diffrence if fact my car ran worse when it was removerd (duno why may be an air leak or somthing).
The Pump its self is lighter than an Alt but at the same time it will help air movement around the turbo area.
Chris
QuoteOriginally posted by Grizzly
it makes absolutly no diffrence } Quote
It will make a difference, wether small or not, it will make a difference... Anything less the engine has to drive is better all round!
The Pump its self is lighter than an Alt but at the same time it will help air movement around the turbo area.
Chris
Can you embellish on this?
The fact that you have a problem with removing yours is testament that YOu have done something wrong and should check yours first.
So i understand how to remove it without a hitch, i am right in sayin that i just need a new belt fitted yes?
LOL
Ok, Let me put this a diffrent way. That car was a pain in the rear from day one.
Try this one, i bought another t2 that had been done by a well known Rx Tuner. I drove this for a month before it started running badly, it turned out that it had blocked the cat. can you guess the Air pumps main purpose in life?
I would still say if you don\'t need to remove it don\'t.
But i have had an experiance with an FD where the air pump failed causing it to lock up and i lost the belt! This was bad as i was 100 miles from home but that and the sligtly better air flow is the only reason i can give you to remove it.
Don\'t take it from me do a bit of reading up on it. Dubble Pulley is a Min then you have the fact the stock EMS thinks its still there so it will run rich on idle.
DO NOT!!! remove the air pump and not put a twin belt pulley and extra belt on. The fan takes some turning and it is connected to the water pump. so the reduced belt to pulley will make it slip when you wot it.
This i have also seen first hand, v belts are rubbish, you look how much the water pump relise on the Air pump belt.
Right will look into it a bit further 1st, any interesting stuff i come up with will post here. cheers
"It will make a difference, wether small or not, it will make a difference... Anything less the engine has to drive is better all round! "
Buying an electric fan will have more of a diffrence!
Yes did think this also but will go down that route when i get a new rad and front mounted IC. Of course this is a long term plan. I was only really thinking of removing it for the fact that it will create more room, espeically when i\'m trying to fit a cold air box for my induction system, is pretty limited in there as we all know ;)
makes some interesting reading to be honest
once im running a full decat im hoping to remove the air pump - i already have the dual alternator pulley - so that helps
and im getting some prices for some more to be made up
we could do with some instructions anyone on how to remove and what block off plates we would need
i have never heard that you need plates - all i was lead to believe is that you need a bung for the air box ( if you still have it )
not sure about the other end though
this is a good thread - and will provide good reading for all new comers
ta
stu / grinder
Ok found this but couldnt seem to link to it, hope it helps
2nd gen Airpump and ACV removal (turbo II shown)
On a Quest for more space under the hood, and maybe even a tiny bit of HP. Our eyes stare right at the airpump and ACV. These combine together to lower our emissions, but with no cats, don\'t do a dam thing (except open the 6 ports on the 89-91 N/As...)
**Note removing these items would be illegal for a car driven on the street....
Removing the air pump is very easy, just a belt, a few bolts, and 2 hoses.
First step pull the hose off between the airbox and airpump (of course by now you probably don\'t have an airbox, so you should\'ve had a small breather filter on the pump, remove that.) Remove the bolt where the arrow is, and loosen the one at the top of the airpump under the rad hose. Now the pump is loose and can move side to side. Push it towards the engine and now you can slide the belt off. Then you should be able to slip the belt over the fan (or cut it if you want...) Now remove that top bolt (pump will want to fall) and the other 3 that are circled for the air pump bracket.
It\'s a bit of a trick to get the pump out, it\'s pretty tight in there with the stock fan and rad hose in place. As you wiggle it around you need to get another hose off the back of it.
Air pump removed, look at all that space!
At this time it would be very wise to spend a few bucks and do this mod while you are in there.
Now with the Airpump gone, the Air Control Valve (ACV) is useless, as that is where the air went to from the airpump.
**Note, before you start you will need an ACV and spilt air pipe block off plate. I got mine from //www.k2rd.com
You must ensure you have blocked the air bypass system into the inlet, otherwise the car will die as soon as it starts up. (assuming there is a sensible block off point like there is on the egi)
I\'m running no air pump and an electric fan on my EGi (thats for sale by the way ;) )but then I\'m also running a straight through system too. If you\'re in any doubt dont touch. :)
First step I removed the Intercooler hose and BOV between the IC and turbo, and the hose to the BAC valve (that red one in pic above). Stuff a rag of something in the turbo to stop stuff from falling in.
Next remove the rubber line that went from the ACV to the airpump (in blue), it attachs to a metal part on the AVC, you can take the metal part off with 2 screws, and just leave the rubber pipe attached to the meta partl. (sorry best pic I had)
Next there is a rubber hose on the bottom of it. This goes to a muffler that is under the Pass side Headlight. (see bottom)
Now with those hoses gone you can start on the ACV. it\'s only 3 nuts, and 2 wire harness clips. but with ABS they are a bitch! With out it, it\'s way to easy...
Off it comes. I just barely managed to slip it out past the ABS. Removing the BAC first would have made it much easier.
Look more space!
The 3 vac lines that went to the ACV need to be blocked off.
If you look closely above, you can also make out my split air pipe block off. I simply put it between the engine and split air pipe. I left the pipe on because it\'s still connected to the cat (Yes I am running a cat with no ACV and air pump!). So this way I block both the engine and the cat with one thing. Less work = good :) Plus it hides it well incase somebody wants to look...
I got the K2RD plate because I liked that it came with new screws, It allows you to remove the huge studs as seen above. However there were pretty hard to get out. All those years of heat really stuck them in good. I finally had to borrow a good pair of vise grips from my neighbor as my old ones were just slipping. Aren\'t neighbors great! :)
Studs removed, surfaced cleaned, and gasket maker on surface. (Didn\'t have a real gasket for it)
Block off plate screwed on, you can just barely see it. You will also notice where the vac line goes now. It used to go to a plug on the ACV, but of course that is gone now. I found a capped off nipple right below the BAC valve, so now I use that.
.
As mentioned above, one of the hoses goes to a muffler under the pass headlight, well here it is. 2 nuts hold it on.
You can see the hose in blue, goes from the ACV to the front of the car.
and under the car to the muffler
The piping was hard to get out! I undid that side of the plastic underpanel, and took off the plastic part where the brake ducts are, and managed to fight it out after some struggling.
I was disappointed though it didn\'t weigh too much, I was hoping for some big savings :)
The air pump and ACV were about 15lbs.
Well that was a fun day of work.
Dude, did you do this today?
If you did, then :god ........ well done son!
My first T2 I removed the Airpump straight away even without replacing the cats and de-catting.....
I had no probs at all, next I removed all the emmisions stuff and blanked what needed to be blanked.
With regard to getting a dual pulley for the Alternator. \'YES\' do get one asap...
Pip at WGT (http://www.wgtautodevelopments.co.uk/contact.htm) has these in stock at I believe £40.oo or take your chances and get one from this Chap (http://stores.ebay.com/BANZAIs-Rotary-Toys_W0QQssPageNameZl2QQtZkm) and take your chances... Grinder got his from him, I order one 4+ weeks ago from him and not seen it yet!
With regard to an electric fan.......... whhhooo thats a story in it self......
If I am bored later I will write my thoughts on them! ;)
rgds
No no as i had put i pulled it from off the web, tried to link to it but it wouldnt work for some reason so took it upon myself to copy it all in sections as i thought it was pretty invaluable, especially as there seems to be an air of controversy surrounding the subject. Hopefully as more and more people go for a straight through system this will be very helpful. Once i have sourced the parts will be removing mine for sure, will update here once done let you know of any problems i came across. Adam
ps: any more news on those duel alternator pulleys Grinder?
Still waiting for feedback about the pulleys - he has mine - so fingers crossed should be getting prices soooooon
I am in the process of making up some pulley\'s fo the FD....
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13239
I also need to make up a dual pulley for my FC, pump has already gone. Need to get a move on.
Not wanting to tread on the the guy who is getting a price for you Grinder depending on how many people would be interested I could do them for about £** for a 6 Off (not sure if this will upset the mods, I will PM price to you Grinder and if the mods say its OK will edit this post).
I will make them from billet alloy and if everyone agrees on a colour they can be anodised as well.
I could also do this as kit maybe to include blanking plate for air control valve....... Just a thought, what do you guys think?
Good stuff dude...........
I\'m in for 2 depending of course on price!
Sounds good to me too, keep us updated ;)
so will it be ok to just remove the belt to the airpump if i have decat and front pipe?
Nice pulleys FD3 UK
FUll kit would be nice.
Cheers
sounds good im intreasted let me know!!!! price etc etc
cheers col
hiya guys
just to update - i CAN NOT get the guy to make the pullies
he says it cheaper to buy them than to make them - so thats that answered
this is a good thread - i just didnt know that it was sooo much work
i was just hoping to remove the pump and leave everything else in place - i take it that this is a bad idea ??
i have heard of people removing the pump but leaving everything else in place - is this do able - im not sure that i have the abilty to remove all the other stuff and fit blanking plate ??
ideas ??
Ta
Stu
hi, being newish to all this im not sure what you mean by the 6 ports part(1990 n/a).
i was told the air pump would free up about 10% so of it came and i removed all the air pipes on the exhaust as they were rottern and just welded over all the holes that where left. i am also thinking of fitting an intercooler from an fd in the nose, will this make any difference/ has anyone tried?. i wanted to increase the air flow for when i get round to fitting my nos kit.
jon do you have a n/a or a t2?
good to see your usign the search lol but you need to research this further mate,. IIRC if you have a n/a the airpump opens the ports when you get to the top end of the rev range. there are a few ways to ditch the airpump and use some other method but i cant remember what.
can you explain what these ports are and what they do, sorry to play dumb, i might be able to sort something if i can find out what they are what they do and why they need the air pump, ie i could fit an electric secondary air pump from a v.w. or the like but i could do with knowing what i need to achieve, thanks jon
p.s its a 1990 n/a and the air pipes where shot so they had to go anyway. i dont know what the car is supposed to be capable of but got 120 before i ran out of straight road(2 mile straight). jon
no such thing as dumb, you just dont know yet otherwise id be a dumb too lol -- the 5th and 6th port open up at higher loads / revs to net you more power, the airpump facilitates it by opening it thats as far as i know.
im pretty sure that a electric pump would do the job, trouble is how your going to set it up to open at certain revs etc. try looking on the yank forums they predominatly have n/a over there //www.rx7club.com
depends on how it works, probably a switch on the throttle or pedal a bit like a nos switch i suppose. will try the yanks and thanks for your help. if you think of anything else please shout. jon
Quote from: FC3Sleo;117835so will it be ok to just remove the belt to the airpump if i have decat and front pipe?
no1 has ans this. also i heard many people removing the air pump for fully decat exhaust systems. i think mine has a sports cat in the middle. is it still possible to remove the air pump. the main reason for the removal is to get rid of the dredded twin 90 degree bend on the air intake n get some more hp out of the car.
if so where can i get the blocking plates and the pulley(s)?
thanks in advance
Air pump removal:
If you do take it off, you\'ll get a lot more room, but as Grizzly said, don\'t run it for long or at high rev\'s on a single pulley. Once the air pump is gone, there is only a small amount of belt in contact with the fan/water pump pulley. The dual alternator belts are a good solution to this - the pulleys can be had from Maztatrix, Atkins Rotary, or do a search on eBay - got mine from a guy in the US who makes the dual pulley and also a conversion so that an FD alternator can be used.
Down sides: You will run close to the emissions limits - you\'ll probably get the car to pass on a no cat test (3.5% CO and 1200ppm HC) if you\'ve got a warm engine, new plugs and the STOCK fuel pump. If you gone with a walbro pump - they cause the car to run rich on idle and that will screw your emissions :(
If you remove the air pump, you may as well get shot of the ACV, relief silencer and anything that\'s left of the split air piping, as it\'s all spare weight.
Im keeping my airpump until I change my ECU, then I can run decat (my car still has the main cat) and still be legal and pass the MOT when I tweek the setting. The airpump has 2 functions, 1 to cool the 2 precats on the downpipe (to stop them melting and imploding in the 900C exhaust flow) and secondly port air, so only remove the airpump if you need to get better airflow to the turbo and get rid of the double 90 degree bend AND you have a new ECU to control emmissions.
Im getting a Header kit for my EGI and i was told that gets rid of the Air pump. what sort of improvements can i expect? other than the obvious lack of popping from the poxy screamer pipe :-)
After much thoughts about removing the air pump or not, i think i will remove it.
I\'ll worry about the emmissions when i come to the MOT.
So from what i understand best to get twin alt pulley and block off plates.
anything else?
B4 i go and order an alt pulley from the states, or maybe wgt, does anyone have one for sale or kno where i can buy one cheap in uk?
also the block off plates i was quoted 50ukp! which i thought was a tad much. can anyone make me some? name ur price.. or even better.. if anyone wanna remove my air pump for me that that would be best ;p
Quote from: BBCFC;519529After much thoughts about removing the air pump or not, i think i will remove it.
I\'ll worry about the emmissions when i come to the MOT.
So from what i understand best to get twin alt pulley and block off plates.
anything else?
B4 i go and order an alt pulley from the states, or maybe wgt, does anyone have one for sale or kno where i can buy one cheap in uk?
also the block off plates i was quoted 50ukp! which i thought was a tad much. can anyone make me some? name ur price.. or even better.. if anyone wanna remove my air pump for me that that would be best ;p
I bought my block off plates off ebay! copied them in the workshop using 3mm SS, then sold them back on ebay for slighty more, WIN WIN. Go SS as it\'s stiff, Ali might bend allowing leaks because the stud holes arn\'t always in the best places to provide a good seal.
Anyone one else dont the Throttle Body mod? I have taken out the second set of butterfly valves in my throttle body, as well as the cold start stuff.
As yet it\'s not fully tested, as done many mods at the same time so the benefit is to be seen, but it must increase flow rate.
I have another TB which I\'m going to take a step further, see weather I can make butterfly valve shafts that are flush!! Workshop again. and also port and polish the TB intake.
In my dreams I could try and design a slide valve that directly replaces the standard TB and still uses the TPS, I have an idea, but also a life. would be cool though.
finally got the blanking plates and twin alt pulley.
was attempting to diy it but then realised that theres a vac line goin from the pressure sensor to BOV and ACV.
from what i have read, once the acv if out the tube is pluged into a nipple nr the bac.
has anyone got a pic of that?
even better, is there anyone nr harrow wanna come give me a hand?
i\'ll treat u to a chicken cottage lol
Quote from: BBCFC;527061finally got the blanking plates and twin alt pulley.
was attempting to diy it but then realised that theres a vac line goin from the pressure sensor to BOV and ACV.
from what i have read, once the acv if out the tube is pluged into a nipple nr the bac.
has anyone got a pic of that?
even better, is there anyone nr harrow wanna come give me a hand?
i\'ll treat u to a chicken cottage lol
Use the one that sticks out under the BAC valve - you can\'t miss it - if something else is plugged into it - tee off it
thanks prof.. i hav a lookie earlier n found it.
but i couldnt get the bottom left nut off the acv :s
also not easy to get the nut off the alt for the pulley.
a visit to ben soon me thinks.. =p
i now have the ACV removed and placed with a blanking plate. the 3 tubes going into the ACV has been blocked off (if what a bit of a botched job using elec tape =/ ) and the hose to the BOV and ACV has been blocked off (or is this ment to be plugged into the BAC? i thought the BAC nipple was just a blank?)
an elec plug [1] has been removed from the ACV and not plugged into anything now.
car starts and works fine but the boost gague does not work!
is that due to the elec plug (ref [1]) being removed and not plugged in anywhere?
there is a wire from teh AFM going to the pressure sensor leading to somewhere else with also a white 2 pin plug on it not connected to anywhere. is that ment to be unplugged?
i have not booted it anywhere yet so cant hear if the BOV still works or not.
the split air hose (i think is that one) goes towards the turbo and is still on and the one going to the cat is also still on as cat is still there.
HELP PLS!!!! cheers =)
*nudge nudge*
Quote from: BBCFC;535004i now have the ACV removed and placed with a blanking plate. the 3 tubes going into the ACV has been blocked off (if what a bit of a botched job using elec tape =/ ) and the hose to the BOV and ACV has been blocked off (or is this ment to be plugged into the BAC? i thought the BAC nipple was just a blank?)
an elec plug [1] has been removed from the ACV and not plugged into anything now.
I think that you\'ve unplugged the vac source for your BOV and also for the MAP sensor - a pic of what you\'ve done would help.
Quote from: BBCFC;535004car starts and works fine but the boost gague does not work! is that due to the elec plug (ref [1]) being removed and not plugged in anywhere?
That wire controls a solenoid valve within the ACV - it can remain unplugged - small black round plug is it ?
Quote from: BBCFC;535004there is a wire from teh AFM going to the pressure sensor leading to somewhere else with also a white 2 pin plug on it not connected to anywhere. is that ment to be unplugged?
That \'white\' plug is probably faded yellow - if it\'s by the shock tower, it\'s the fuel pump primer plug - normally it\'s not connected to anything, but if you\'ve depressurized the fuel system, you short that plug out and turn the igniton part way - it will allow the fuel pump to operate without starting the engine.
Quote from: BBCFC;535004i have not booted it anywhere yet so cant hear if the BOV still works or not.
the split air hose (i think is that one) goes towards the turbo and is still on and the one going to the cat is also still on as cat is still there.
HELP PLS!!!! cheers =)
Split air is the air that goes to down the metal pipe into the CAT if you still have it. The other hose that was on the ACV apart from the one to the air pump is the relief air - that just vents the air pump air to atmoshpere under certain rev conditons - if you\'ve taken the ACV off it does nothing now.
sorry dont know how to use the multi quote thing :2Confused
[ATTACH]40868[/ATTACH]
thas what i\'ve done. the red tape is bolckign the pipes n hoses.
i have re-attached all that i can (and remember lol).
not sure which the vac source for bov is :confused: nor map sensor :confused::confused:
im happy that the solenoid valve remains unplugged and yes it is a round black one.
i would of thought if the boost gauge is not plugged in correct then the needle on the gague would rest as low as poss but it rests at zero.
thanks dave. ur a star =)
drinks on me next time we out :cheers:guinness
Quote from: Prof;535294I think that you\'ve unplugged the vac source for your BOV and also for the MAP sensor - a pic of what you\'ve done would help.
That wire controls a solenoid valve within the ACV - it can remain unplugged - small black round plug is it ?
That \'white\' plug is probably faded yellow - if it\'s by the shock tower, it\'s the fuel pump primer plug - normally it\'s not connected to anything, but if you\'ve depressurized the fuel system, you short that plug out and turn the igniton part way - it will allow the fuel pump to operate without starting the engine.
quote]
Boost gauge reading 0 is correct - as soon as the gauge is powered up, it will read the pressure on the MAP sensor - which is 0 (atmosphere). The boost gauge is electronic and driven from the MAP sensor output - so what ever it sees, that\'s what your gauge is reading.
When the gauge is at the bottom, it\'s actually registering the vacuum that occurs when the engine is on idle or low throttle input/no load. As you load up the engine, the pressure increases past 0 and into positive boost.
If you look just under the BAC valve, you should find a small metal pipe (nipple) sticking out of the inlet manifold - connect your BOV and MAP sensor to that using a t piece - that should restore functionality.
Incidentally - where are you getting the air supply to the BAC valve from (the pipe under the BAC valve - that\'s the inlet to it) ?
im assuming by map sensor u mean the tube going from the pressure sensor box?
will try plugging the loose end to the bov nipple once i get my car back (fitting alarm) not that anyone can prob nick my car as if u start it n dunt press throttle then engine dies lol.. if u do that too much then it floods *fingers crossed will work*
as for air suply to the bac. im assuming, again, u mean where the blue pipe is going?
the other end of the blue pipe is going to the air filter and sucks air in. think when i was at bens that if that pipe was blocked then the engin stalls. (cant quite remember)
Quote from: Prof;535544Boost gauge reading 0 is correct - as soon as the gauge is powered up, it will read the pressure on the MAP sensor - which is 0 (atmosphere). The boost gauge is electronic and driven from the MAP sensor output - so what ever it sees, that\'s what your gauge is reading.
When the gauge is at the bottom, it\'s actually registering the vacuum that occurs when the engine is on idle or low throttle input/no load. As you load up the engine, the pressure increases past 0 and into positive boost.
If you look just under the BAC valve, you should find a small metal pipe (nipple) sticking out of the inlet manifold - connect your BOV and MAP sensor to that using a t piece - that should restore functionality.
Incidentally - where are you getting the air supply to the BAC valve from (the pipe under the BAC valve - that\'s the inlet to it) ?
BOV now working as it should!!! :Laugh
all that was needed was the tube to be connected to the bac rather than just blocked off!
if only i listened rather than trying to botch things haha
BIG thanks to prof & ben!! :god
Good write up mate v intresting
BBCFC Where abouts did you get your blanking plates and dual alt pulley from?
Quote from: adereed;571230BBCFC Where abouts did you get your blanking plates and dual alt pulley from?
pm sent, but just incase anyone else wanted then
blanking plates
http://www.banzai-racing.com/
twin alt pulley
links on
fc3spro.com
both came very quick. =)
So is it ok to just disconect the part of the metal hose that goes to the cat from the engine block? I just put in a decat pipe so i just have nothing but pipe from the tubby to the back box. Dunno what my MOT guy is going to say about it! Do you have to have that metal pipe plumbed into the decat pipe for the air pump to still clean up emissions a bit? Might just have to pull out all those old smog "cheets" Lol!
Its still bolted to the engine but i removed from where the little rubber pipe bends it into the next section of metal pipe that goes into the cat. Its just the part coming off the block now. Is that ok? Untill i can get plates and pullys etc etc and properly remove the air pump all together. Should i bung up the remaining pipe?
Thanks guys!
I don\'t see why it would be a problem for now. All it does is put air into the CAT, Now its venting it to atmosphere. Just remove it when you get rid of the airpump.
Quote from: Jimi_Hendrix;585887So is it ok to just disconect the part of the metal hose that goes to the cat from the engine block? I just put in a decat pipe so i just have nothing but pipe from the tubby to the back box. Dunno what my MOT guy is going to say about it! Do you have to have that metal pipe plumbed into the decat pipe for the air pump to still clean up emissions a bit? Might just have to pull out all those old smog "cheets" Lol!
Its still bolted to the engine but i removed from where the little rubber pipe bends it into the next section of metal pipe that goes into the cat. Its just the part coming off the block now. Is that ok? Untill i can get plates and pullys etc etc and properly remove the air pump all together. Should i bung up the remaining pipe?
Thanks guys!
The air pump and Air Control Valve (on side of engine) - route air to one of 3 places, depending on revs and ecu signals - it\'s either pumping air to the cat, air into the exhaust ports (internally) or venting air out through a pipe that goes to a silencer under the drivers headlight.
If you go with a de-cat pipe then you can just vent that pipe to air in the engine bay - it won\'t hurt :)
to be honest thats all i did
i removed the pipe from the exhaust up to the rubber pipe in the engine bay and left it venting - no probs with the MOT at all :D
Yep, I did the same, just left the pipe blowing to the atmosphere :) (Make sure its not going to flap about etc though)
Excelenty! Thanks guys! And now i know what that little pipe under the headlight is for! Lol! I thought it might be an overflow thingy for coolant or washer fluid or something! Ha ha! Cheers Prof!:chat
Just want to say a big thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I removed my airpump and ACV today and this thread helped me alot. Thankyou:Thumbsup!
I have followed this guide on my 87 EGI and now the car wont idle at all... she will fire up rev to 3k then shut down...
she will run if you keep your foot on the throttle but she wont idle... i have tried ajusting the screw on the UIM and also checked all hoses are ok... anyone any ideas or anyone near north wales willing to come take a look for themselves?
Bump, where can i get the necessary block off bits and other associated parts to complete an airpump removal ?
See post 64 mate. Or sometimes they come up on ebay.com
Many thanks sir!
Will i need a two track pulley or whatever its called? If so, any idea where to get that from ?
Sorry to be a pain, just wanna do it right.
Also, will i need gaskets when blocking off the various ACV bits.
twin alt pulley from
http://www.mazdatrix.com/index.htm (http://www.mazdatrix.com/index.htm)
Interesting thread this. Sorry for potentially dumb question but are you able to ditch the air pump and other emissions stuff from the EGI and continue to have the 5th and 6th ports work correctly?
Is this a problem if you change header and ditch the cat?
Thanks
Mark
That\'s not a dumb question - actually a very good one - if you do remove the airpump on an EGI - you have to provide some other mechanism for operating the 2 additional intake ports. There\'s some right ups on the rx7club forum about using actuator\'s or solenoids to do this.
Quote from: Prof;715378That\'s not a dumb question - actually a very good one - if you do remove the airpump on an EGI - you have to provide some other mechanism for operating the 2 additional intake ports. There\'s some right ups on the rx7club forum about using actuator\'s or solenoids to do this.
Oh right, might just keep that in then. Can I still remove stock airbox and retain the air pump?
Thanks
Mark
Yep - when I got my HKS mushroom induction kit - it came with a small bit of foam to go in the end of the air intake for the air pump - so as long as you put some sort of filter on it you\'d be fine. :)
Quote from: Prof;715394Yep - when I got my HKS mushroom induction kit - it came with a small bit of foam to go in the end of the air intake for the air pump - so as long as you put some sort of filter on it you\'d be fine. :)
Brilliant, thanks very much for the help. Now I just need some funds so that I can buy my K&N :)
Mark