Just picked up my new Turbo II. H reg, 86k on the clock, unfinished project. It sat for 4 years at a workshop down the road from me, just brought it (with rebuilt engine and blow engine thrown in) for the paltry sum of £1000.
I reckon its going to need around a month of my spare time to get it on the road again.
Oh yeah, and its got no lethal rust on it...... :cool
Post sum pic\'s later.:D
You lucky sod! That sounds like a top find. cant wait to see the photos. So what is happening to the other turbo II that you have?
You\'re thinking of my Egi. The old warhorse will be up for sale once the TII is Taxed and tested.
The Egi has quite literally a shed full of spares (including another 6 wheels, one worn engine, lots of body work, and loads more...)
that will either go with it, or I will start to sell seperately.
Trouble is, I dont know what the Egi is worth really. There cant be many around that go like mine does :D
Bretts Egi (http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=85311#post85311)
Will be sorry to see her go, but the TII was just too good an oportunity to pass up.
Picture of the TII
Looks like it will clean up nicely. I see in your signiture that you are in sussex now? I thought you lived on an island?:confused:
Cant access the pics of you egi as am not a member.:eek: (i feel the shame. hopefully soon though:D )
Yeah I spent 7 months on fraggle rock (or Guernsey as its know ot the tourist board ;) ), but after losing my job and splitting with the g/friend I came back hone to good ol\' england. Been back about 2 weeks now.
I will attatch a picture and specs here just for you!
1988 2nd Gen, Naturally aspirated, never thrashed....
Spec:-
130,000 miles on the clock.
Rebuilt engine (From my old rx) with around 10,000 miles on the clock.
Ported housings
K&N induction kit
Straight through exhaust with tubular manifold
Uprated oil injection
AFR Modified to increase fueling throughout the rev range (and poison pedestrains at idle)
Air pump and hydrostatic fan removed.
Electric fan conversion.
Slotted discs and Greenstuff V4 fast road pads. (reconditioned calipers front and rear)
Standard wheels with decent(ish) rubber. (Bridgetone re88 fronts, BFGoodrich rear)
Future plans:-
Full rub down and respray.
Better wheels (Got 8 standard wheels! want some grip though..)
New ECU and a full on rr and rd mapping session
Strut brace (front)
Uprated shocks and springs
Poly bushes all around.
Best 0-60 so far is 5.9, but I can usually get a consistant 6.3-6.5
Which aint bad for an ol\' car.
*update*
A new custom airvalve has been installed to control emissions at idle. The car wil now go through an MOT without a bribe! (And thats with a straight through system folks!)
and yes, you should feel a deep burning sense of shame and guilt! :D
looks neat matey - just needs a bit of a clean :)
and it looks like it has the front splitter thingy on aswell - there are rarer than hens teeth !!
It will probably end up needing a full respray I suspect. I\'ll see if the T-cut brings any of the paint work back up. (Laquer is coming off in loads of places.
Has a nice set of leather recaros too :D
Interior is reddy brown leather, is that a standard option? Never seen one with that colour leather. The recaros match the leather btw.
Anybody got a BOV they want to sell me?
QuoteOriginally posted by Brett
Anybody got a BOV they want to sell me?
OY - im on the hunt for one of them :)
True, but I\'m prepared to spend more than £50! ;)
In fact, just to wind you up even more Stu, I\'ve found a BOV for £60, and its literally 10mins away from me :wave
Is having a BOV actually going to gain me anything other than Chav points though? :confused:
errr where from ??
i want one :(
no fair
GIT
2nd hand, from a garage in Southwater. Dont know if £60 is a good deal or not though? :confused:
Tell you what, I\'ll buy it, if I dont like it you can have it for £60 plu P&P. :)
QuoteOriginally posted by Brett
Is having a BOV actually going to gain me anything other than Chav points though? :confused: [/B]
Unfortunatly not.......
Make sure it\'s a recirculating one if the car is standard.....
I\'m not planning on fitting it until the car is running perfectly mot\'d etc. Then the mods will start. I\'ll fit it at that point.
Why is recirculating important? (Not FA about turbo cars other than the theory)
QuoteOriginally posted by TRex
Unfortunatly not.......
Make sure it\'s a recirculating one if the car is standard.....
i didnt think it matter - the standard one vents back into the air box - so not sure why you would want an aftermarket one to do the same - unless im wrong - which is probably more like it !
brett - i could have some toys for sale soon - all aftermarket TII stuff - i will have a better idea after the weekend though - i will PM you when i know for sure
stu
Why do i sense an impending MOT for your TII?
yup - saturday matey
not looking forward to it :(
done all the welding now though - more plates than i can shake a stick at - but if it all goes wrong - i have a raft of spares : ( well ok not a raft - but a few )
Boost Gauge
Auto Meter A/F Gauge
Fuel Cut Defence
Boost Controller
De-Cat Pipe ( Turbo End )
FD Fuel Pump
Smoked Indicators
Blitz MFCS ( Multi Fuel Computer System ) Front Strut Brace ( Megan Racing RX7 FC3S Strut Brace )
Dual Alternator Pulley thingy
rear lights
mirrors
sunroof panel
cluster surround
mirror switches
light switches
window switches
and more crap in the garage
Chin up mate, as long as nothing else is seriously wrong you should be ok.
Check these things NOW to avoid disappointment.
How free are your break calipers? If one side is sticking due to lack of use it will show up on the MOT rollers, if its excessive thats a fail. (30mins and some carefull WD40 use can cure this)
Check your handbrake is functioning correctly. (A good guide is to put on the hand brake and attempt to push the car. If it wont move thats normally good enough.)
Check exhaust for blowing.
Check brake lines/fuel lines for rust. (If rusty get on there with some emery cloth, then paint them with Waxoyl, that way you wont have to worry about them until next spring. At which point check them all again.)
Make sure your head light beam adjusters are all freely movable.
Those are the major ones to look out for.
If it does fail dont despair, take some time out and when you\'ve clamed down, look at the fail sheet and see what its failed on. If its loads of work, and you really dont want to do it then fair enough. But if realistically theres only one or two days work on there then sort it out in time for your free retest.
Alternatively i know where theres a truely awsome EGi for sale....
thanks brett - the car brakes fine and the hand brake is ok ( having tried to push it with it still one )
all the lines look nice and clean ( well what i can see of them )
im gonna put a limit on what is fixable ( say £150 ) and everything about that - the car is a gonner
at the end of the day - i will know better on sat
im just panicing over RS - if it fails on loads and i need parts - i only have 7 weeks to source them and fit them
to be honest - the car could fail on a number of things - but on the other hand it could pass just fine - i really dont know
the car looks neat , drives OK ( apart from pulling to the left - but it passed its last MOT like that ) - but that could be the falling point for me - if its bearing , suspension and the such like - i could struggle getting stuff in my price range
hey - we\'ll know better on sat - you will have to wait for monday mornign for the results :)
ta
stu
( and if the car does go - i could be tempted by an EGI again - so much easier to drive IMO )
Egi is in the for sale section now.
Remember folks, its as quick as a TII.....
good sales pitch matey !
;)
What can I say, it goes? :D
QuoteOriginally posted by Brett
Egi is in the for sale section now.
Remember folks, its as quick as a TII.....
if thats the case - how come you bought a TII ??
\'Cos it was cheap! I cant really do any more to the EGi now without going down the whole ECU and mapping route. I\'ve learnt a great deal from my Egi(s), now its time to move on to something else. The TII came along at just the right time, and its a new challenge. I cant resist a challenge :D
I\'ll run around in the TII, probably damn near standard for awhile. But, I also have the spare TII engine block, and I know where theres a set of ported engine plates, I already know how to port the housings, and I know a man who knows his ECU\'s....this time next year, be on the look out for something a bit special. ;)
ARC replacement top mount intercooler.
Had a look on the net after your PM Grinder, the ARC is defo larger than standard. (FYI a peugot 405 TD intercooler is larger than a standard TII jobby....)
Heres the pic of the ARC.
now i like the look of that - i can just imagine that under the hood :)
Oh yes indeedy! I think I need one of those in my life too. Along with a nice water mist spray.
Its not even road worthy yet and I\'m getting ideas above my station....
welcome to my world matey
QuoteOriginally posted by grinder
welcome to my world matey
True, but dreams are less expensive to insure :D
looks light a great big heak soak to me, sitting on top of the engine like that just absorbs heat, good warming your intake air up on a cold morning though!:confused:
Had one of those ARC Intercoolers, but flogged it as I have gone a different route now....
Agreed, placing an intercooler on top of the engine has been proven as being not a very good idea.......
Mega Heat soak........ remember, Hot air rises etc etc......
The only reason Impreza, Evos\' etc have them on top is because they were designed for Rally car use and Rally conditions, they\'ll get fecked in a front mounted position from Stones, rubble, crap etc etc etc.... along with other reasons along those lines...
A road/street car where the vehicle can be stationary for periods(traffic, corners, driving at 30mph etc) just attracts heat soak!
rgds
Agreed, but my plans revolve around making the car look standard, but go \'reasonably\' well. I reckon that some work with a few temperature controlled relays and either a water mist or CO2 spray onto the intercooler would work wonders.
At the end of the day I dont intend to be giving the car a thrashing all the time, I will run a switchable mapping system that will control the wastegate too, so there will be a \'softly, softly catchy monkey\' map and probably an all out \'turbo nutter 1mpg my god thats fast\' map. :D
Buts thats all a year off, I\'ve got to build the block yet....
\'\'I will run a switchable mapping system that will control the wastegate too, so there will be a \'softly, softly catchy monkey\' map and probably an all out \'turbo nutter 1mpg my god thats fast\' map. \'\'
alright bret this sounds really good!!
theres a company called revo technick which make exactly wat u have described!! i believe its got three different switches.-standard-fast -faster etc etc my mate has got one in his cupra turbo ibiza and it flys!!
cheers fella colin
EVO dont have a intercooler on top, is just a vent for the hot air to vent out. It has a front mount intercooler behond the bumper. Only the Scooby has the top mount
Sam
QuoteOriginally posted by samfc3s
EVO dont have a intercooler on top, is just a vent for the hot air to vent out. It has a front mount intercooler behond the bumper. Only the Scooby has the top mount
Sam
Wrong, early ones had TMI...
It was mainly designed for Rally use......
Every rally manufacturer did a TMI car design.... Nissan, Toyota, Mazda, Subaru etc.... because of conditions....
Anyway, won\'t press this as it depends on what you really want for the car in terms of performance and usage.
For instance in drag racing, it won\'t matter much really as for a quick 5-15 sec blast won\'t see a major difference really, a charge cooler is probably best for this application anyway.
Coarses for horses really.....
Anyway, fitting a Front mount intercooler in an FC is a \'biatch\' of a job..... :(
Ok, standard thicko question here. (And because I cant be bothered to go look it up)
Whats different from a charge cooler to an intercooler? (I know how an IC works)
An intercooler is essentially a radiator tuned for high flow rates and the increasing density of the charge as it cools. Most designs use ambient air for cooling, flowing through the radiator core, and often colocated with other radiators for oil or cooling fluid.
An alternate design, often referred to as a charge cooler, uses water to cool the charge, then cools the water in a separate radiator.
While heavier and more complex, charge coolers can often make arranging the engine much simpler.
Having liquid on the cold side of the exchanger results in several very important advantages.
First, water is over 9 times more conductive than air, so, the overall heat transfer coefficient is dramatically improved...many times per unit fin area over air-to-air. This affords a much more compact heat exchanger design. Compactness allows the cooler to be placed directly "in the run" from the tuborcharger to engine -
Little to no increase in ducting length occurs so ducting losses are absolutely minimized meaning charge density is maximized.
Having a reservoir of cool liquid on-hand takes advantage of available thermal mass or storage of the coolant itself, i.e., the vast majority of boost/power demands are typically of short duration, resulting in very little overall temperature rise of the coolant itself.
As the coolant is continuously circulated, cooled and stored "at the ready" at close to ambient temperatures, the charge cooler is always afforded Maximum Cooling Advantage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the info, I\'ve just downlaoded a nice write up from Vortex as well. I\'m looking into making one now. Trouble is looking for a place to put the water tank and the pump. Theres no way you want to run it from the main water supply that feeds the engine too! Presuming I can get the pressure right, I\'m considering locating a tank inside one of the boot panels and feeding the CC with some .25" pipe. I\'ve got lots of time to get it sorted out yet, but its an interesting idea and well worth it if I mak it work reliably. :)
More pictures (dubious quality however)
The two FC\'s side by side.
Turbo II from the side (Please note the lack of green Sh*t now)
(Feel free to play \'spot the rotor housing on the previous picture)
Interior 1 (Is that a standard colour?)
Better picture of the leathers colour.
QuoteOriginally posted by Brett
(Feel free to play \'spot the rotor housing on the previous picture)
Interior 1 (Is that a standard colour?)
housings in the engine bay:D
Well yes, but theres another in there too. :rolleyes:
:rollin
skip?
pretty sure not a standard interior, seats are completly different shape and only verts had leather, black and the same shape as the cloth equivilent.
I know the seats are aftermarket Recaros, looks like the interior may have been retrimmed to match them...?
What skip?
QuoteOriginally posted by Brett
(Feel free to play \'spot the rotor housing on the previous picture)
Do I win..........:chat
Thats only a rotor.........
Prize only goes to the person who can point out the rotor housing, a further bonus point is available if you can tell me which car it came out of.
Winner gets some crap out of my desk drawer! :bandit
my guess
Hmmm...I\'ll have to go to a judges desicion. :rollin
The winner is..............Stu! (Grinder) You win a limited edition length of Lamina spirally wound tubing! WOuld you like it mailed, or hand delivered at RS? :cool
you can deliver it at RS05 if you dont mind !!
I dont mind at all. Clearly you have no idea just how crappy your prize really is :rollin :rollin WOnder if we can hand it over during the awards ceremony? :cool
Cant be arsed with making yet another thread, so:-
Whats the average fuel consumption like on the TII? How many MPG are people averaging?
not done the math but i get about 250miles on a full tank. thats about 50 quid
oooh!!! Thats better than my EGi!
QuoteOriginally posted by t2rew
not done the math but i get about 250miles on a full tank. thats about 50 quid
BLOODY HELL!!!!! I struggle to get over 200 even when it\'s all motorway crusing!
Will
As I\'m sure I mentioned to you on Tues Will, the absolute best I\'ve ever managed is 280 on a tank that was a motorway and A road run with cruise set at a little above the speed limit ;) for the whole run!
combined town and country I get about 180 to a tank and in town alone about 140 to a tank!
I put £20 in on Monday - from empty and I have driven 39 miles I down to less than 1/8 of a tank again! :eek: that is about 8mpg!!!!!! (must use the cavalier more for daily driving!)
I get around 140-180 out of the EGi, so its not going to be much different then. Insurance is only going ot cost me another £90 on top so thats not too bad either :)
you will be suprised how much better your fuel economy will be with some mods and a good rebuild. I got the same fuel economy with my standard 250bhp FD as i did when i rebuilt it, ported it, went single with huge injectors, Power FC and 440flwhp.
The stock set up, especially a TII runs very rich. If you have a good rebuild and after market computer you will get better mpg\'s.
when i first bough the car it was doing about 200 miles but i found that unexeptable. i have run a few bottles of injector cleaner though it and cleaned out anything on the inlet i could get at. the timing is right and it has always got good plugs and air filter, they need changing now as it happens. i cant remember my best but it was in the 300 miles territory. it always does 250 with a bit of a mix of driving.
the other car is a bit different. it just gets over 200 with constant 70/75 mph.
SO, what ECU\'s are available for the TII then?
I\'ve seen several Knight sports and RE:A Chipped ECU\'s for sale on US ebay, but I suspect they are all mapped for S4 Turbos.
SO, whos got what and what has it cost you?
SO, what ECU\'s are available for the TII then?
I\'ve seen several Knight sports and RE:A Chipped ECU\'s for sale on US ebay, but I suspect they are all mapped for S4 Turbos.
SO, whos got what and what has it cost you?
Getting it back tomorrow! With a floor and everything!
nice on brett - im pleased for you !
t2rew - did the injector cleaner work ok then - what did you use - just redex ?
ta
stu
christ mate, that was a quick reply!
so how much did it set you back then brett? I had someone come out to mine and they said that it going to cost me 200 pound + cost of two new sills so about 350 for the labour and parts, think he knows what he is on about he has a spot welder ....
would be good if you post some before and then after pics, anyway glad you got your car back mate, i just wish i could get mine back on the road for JAE but there is no chance of that happening.
About £250 notes for the job. Got a local blacksmith to do it for me :D
nice one lol :)
a blacksmith eh! did he replace the whole floor? or just the really rusty bits?
I wont know until tomorrow!
hope jobs a good un then mate.
must of welded a few horse shoes together for the floor :D
grinder. the injection cleaner i used had injection cleaner written on the side :D i used a couple of bottles. over a couple of tank fulls
thanks for that - - just wanted to make sure it wasnt gonna break anything :)
Sorted out your noise yet Stu?
actaully - yeah i think i have - disconnected the boost gauges and it seems to have gone - maybe one ( or both ) have sprung a leak ???
will have a better idea tomorrow - taking it to work - so will bebale to have a good listen to it
How strange..... I\'ve no idea why they should create that noise?
if they are leaking air then they might - like i said -will have a better idea tomorrow - so will update you then :)
Bedtime for me now
Nighty Night
What, no bedtime story? :rollin
brett how did it go? is it all sorted now?
They finished it last night, I will be tacking it back to my workshop tomorrow morning. Looks like they\'ve done a top job, they even removed the TII bodykit and checked for rust underneath (It was all ok!) they also refitted the bodykit so that it fits nicely and there are no gaps at the top :D
The guy was shocked about how thin the floors are as standard though!
I heartily recommend them. If anybody in the Sussex area needs some welding, PM me and I will give you the phone number. (I wont post their address and number on the open forum as they are not supporting vendors)
Car is now 90% ready........
Ok, its ready for its MOT now, I\'m hoping the brakes will scrub up ok on the way to the MOT station, if not then I\'ll have to put new ones on all around...
another pic of the engine.
another random pic.....
More random pics :D :wave
Momo steering wheel that will soon be going the way of the bin :flamed
A proper boost gauge :rollin :god
Dodgy paint on the left hand front wing.
This is where the laquer is bubbling up, it does not show well in photos, but I think you can get the idea. :wiggle
Oh yeah, got the aircon fully functioning now as well, using RC29 gas, gives a nice cool interior :)
MMMMMMMMMMMmmmmm free steering wheel for stu :)
Trust me mate, its bucking sh1t.
awwwww - no probs matey
I could make you a steering wheel from an old 50gal drum and some string? :rollin
;) Do you think that boost guage is from a steam train?
Boost guage is a p1ss take, its a test one for when I was pressurizing the intake system :rollin
BTW, I\'d just like to add the following:-
Removing and re-installing those recaros. What hatefull, dirty, inbred b*stard thought putting in bigger seats with a larger overhang would be a good idea? I wasted 2 hours on the seats cos one bolt was cross threaded and I had to fit a new hank nut!
Rant over.
BTW The seats are around the same weight as ordinary ones, which is something of a surprise, I was expecting much heavier.
It passed :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
:cool
\'Well done man!\' :cheers
nice one brett! what did the garage say about emissions? you got a decat?
Emissions are fine, it still has the full mazda system on there atm.
I\'ve mananged to get 650miles on the engine now since the 30th of June, so I should be run in by JAE! :) :) :D :D :D :) :)
950 miles, its nearly there :D :D :D :D