Right chaps
i have a boost controller in the garage that needs fitting
although i have NO idea
its a very simple unit - a dial with 3 wires coming of it that go into a little box
colours are RED/BLACK/YELLOW
now i assume red/black are power - but this yellow wire - where the hell does that go ??
all pip said about it was :
Hi grinder
the yellow wire goes to the blue/white wire that goes to the duty solenoid
Cheers
Pip
does this make any sense to you guys ??
Ta
stu
( will get some pics up once i get the off the camera )
pic 1 :
pic 2 :
pic 3 :
The duty solenoid is the small one by itself bolted onto the right hand intercooler mount, this controlls the boost pressure. It has a blue connector and two vaccum/pressure lines comming out of it. I would presume it hooks into one of the wires on this blue connector.
(http://img201.exs.cx/img201/7526/dutysolenoid9xz.jpg) (http://www.imageshack.us)
top man !!
now then - would you take the wire out - and then put the yellow wire into it or what ??
i have no idea how this thing works - and pips answer didnt really inspire me :(
I\'ve had a look in the fsm and as far as can tell one of the wires in that blue connector is a +12v feed from the main relay and the other wire goes to the ecu. I think you would have to cut the wire that goes to the ecu and attatch that yellow wire from your boost controller to the cut wire from the blue connector.
Basically the ecu grounds this wire \'x\' amount of times per second to cap the boost at a stock level. Once you put the yellow wire from the new controller in its place you are taking over control of the boost pressure.
I\'m going to start stripping my car this afternoon so i\'ll check the duty solenoid with a multimeter and find out if i\'m right or not. I should be able to tell you for sure tonight.
thanks Den ,
like pip says - something to do with a blue/white wire - so if there is one in there - looks like we are on the right track
big thanks
stu
Looks like pip is spot on :) I\'ve had a look this afternoon and there is a blue/white wire and a black/white wire. The black/white wire is showing a constant +12v with the ignition on so the blue/white wire must go to the ecu. If you cut the blue/white wire and attatch the new yellow wire to the connector/solenoid side of this cut wire you should be in business.
I think it would be best to do this at the ecu then you won\'t have the hassle of feeding wires through the firewall or cutting the harness in the engine bay. In the fsm it says its pin 3R (at least i think its an R !) These pics should help you out.
(http://img191.exs.cx/img191/1613/dutysolenoid9ib.jpg) (http://www.imageshack.us)
26 pin connector at ecu :
(http://img194.exs.cx/img194/8241/26pinecuconnector5la.jpg) (http://www.imageshack.us)
thanks for that Den ,
i know that you said go for the ecu end - but not 100% sure about this
im panicing about putting my A/F gauge on the ecu loom
im not bothered about putting wires thru the firewall - thats no problem to be honest - as the boost pipe runs thru there
so if i was to do this at the ecu end - i take it the all i need to do - is cut ( ekkkk sounds bad ) the wire just before it enters the ecu - and connect the yellow wire to the wire from the ecu ??
or..
see next post with pics :)
so if i go thru the fire wall - i can do it like this :
( i take it i have got the yellow wire on the correct end of the cut ?? )
and if so - just i just wrap tape around the other end ??
Your nearly there mate but the wire needs to go on the other side of the cut. If you were to do it at the ecu you would tape up the cut wire from the ecu connector and attatch the yellow wire to the harness side of the cut wire.
At ecu :
(http://img198.exs.cx/img198/3011/ecudiagram3vu.jpg) (http://www.imageshack.us)
If you do it in the engine bay you need tape up the harness side of the cut wire and attatch the yellow wire to the solenoid side of the cut wire.
In engine bay :
(http://img198.exs.cx/img198/8746/dutysolenoiddiagram1zf.jpg) (http://www.imageshack.us)
Basically when you are done the ecu will have nothing to do with controlling the duty solenoid, you will be controlling it directly with the new boost controller.
Good luck ! :)
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH that makes some sense :)
right then - just out of interest - what can go wrong if i do this wrong ?
am i likely to kill or destroy anything ??
and your diagrams make SOOOOOOOOOO much sense - its superb - we would have been here months without them !
big thanks Den - i just need to get everything else on the car sorted out now :)
ta
stu
No problem stu, anytime mate. Your only worry should be overboosting, which is down to how much you turn the boost up.
If you have wired anything wrong and the solenoid gets no signal the wastegate will open at the pressure of the actuator spring which is approx 5-6 psi. If this happens that is all the boost you will see (unless your running an aftermarket filter or straight pipes etc then you will get some creep if you have an unported wastegate).
As your increasing the boost i\'m guessing your running an fcd ? While your setting up the controller i would disconnect this, its much safer to hit boost cut rather than overboosting and detonating. I must have hit the cut at least 10 times while setting up my mbc with no ill effects.
I would wire the controller up, disconnect the fcd and then slowly turn the boost up a little at a time. This way you can be sure of not overboosting. The boost cut is around 8.5 psi, once you hit it reinstall the fcd and turn the boost up at your own risk !:) (make sure you are actually just at or below the boost cut pressure before you reinstall the fcd)
If you havn\'t at least got a larger fuel pump i would not go any higher than 9 at an absolute maximum. Even then you might pushing your luck.
Have fun ! :)
Den, top advise to the man.. oh, and killer illustrations! :god
this is where it becomes a bit iffy - i dont know what this controller does to to be honest
i was lead to believe that it would only turn boost DOWN ?? ( so that you could turn it down on the motorway )
now im not sure if thats actaually possible or not ??
with regards to over boosting - this is the fun bit ( well OK its not !! )
i will be fitting a Blitz FMCS to the car ( Fuel Management Computer System ) which adjusts the air fuel mix at various revs - this has a built in FCD ( which is adjustable )
i also have a FD pump to fit to the car
aswell as the front decat pipe , then i need to remove the air pump ( dual pully on its way ) and about another 1000 jobs to do on it ( dont get me started on the welding !! )
when i drove the car last ( over 6months ago ) - it used to spike to about 6psi and then settle down at about 5psi thru the rev range - if i could get it to run no more than 8psi i would be happy ( for a start ! )
so im hoping that will all the mods i should beable to do this
i just want to get the 1/4 miles to under 15sec :)
take from my MY RIDE page :
Well here she is :-
Car : RX7 Turbo II
Year : 1990
Colour : Black
Miles : 105K
Rebuild : Yes , By Mazda around 75K
F.S.H. : Yes
BHP : Unknown
1/4 Mile : 15.07 Secs @ 91.94 mph ( did a 15.23 @ 93.41)
Work Done :
Main Cat Removed
Boost Gauge
Magnacor Plug Leads
To Be Done ( Have parts already ) :
Fuel Cut Defence ( not bothing with this now )
Boost Controller
De-Cat Pipe ( Turbo End )
FD Fuel Pump
Smoked Indicators
Single Din Conversion for Radio
Lots and Lots of welding
Under Dash Neon Lighting
Blitz MFCS ( Multi Fuel Computer System ) - should get the 1/4 down to 13.9 with this baby :)
Front Strut Brace ( Megan Racing RX7 FC3S Strut Brace )
Auto Meter A/F Gauge
Future Stuff ( Need to buy ) :
Removal of airpump
Dual Alternator Pulley thingy ( on its way from ebay )
I\'ve never had any experience with that specific controller before so i cant say for sure but i would imagine it works just like any other.
It should be able to lower the boost but you\'ll never get the boost lower than 5-6 psi without changing the wg actuator. You should be able to keep it as low as that with the controller.
When you say you have a decat pipe do you mean the precat or main cat ? If your getting rid of both and want to run a steady amount of boost i would port the wastegate especially as you say you want to turn the boost right down for the motorway etc.
I would be very surprised if you didn\'t get into the 13\'s with that lot !
I had exactly that Boost controler on my Red Fc when i bought it. I found it would not go down (oviously due to the preset Actuator) but it would go up ALOT!!!! i found this out when i knocked it with my arm whilst giving it death down the motorway. Suprisingly though it did\'nt let loose but it did\'nt do it any favors. So i pulled the nob of it so it was not as easly knocked.
I admit it was in a daft place though, somone had put it in a blank next to the handbrake where i kept knocking it up and down.
All i can say is get a Boost Gauge fitted and see if you can borow a Wide band (maybe take it to Pip\'s) and see when it starts to lean out. From first hand experiance i have run upto 1 bar on a stock T2 and it drove fine until the eventful day it let loose.
Chris
hiya chris - long time no speak !
are we correct then with the wiring of the this up ??
i was gonna fit mine in the same place as what you said - maybe i need a rethink !
you ran at 1bar - thats impressive - i would be MORE than happy with that figure !!
Den , yeah i have lots of toys to fit to the car - if i could get it to under 15secs i would be happy - 14.5 and i would be really happy
the main cat has been removed - and its just the pre cat ( turbo end ) that needs replacing
the dual alternator pulley has arrived - so i think thats it for the car now - it has all the toys - just need to weld the thing together before i start tweaking - and time is running out QUICK
QuoteOriginally posted by grinder
when i drove the car last ( over 6months ago ) - it used to spike to about 6psi and then settle down at about 5psi thru the rev range
So what boost pressure is standard then?? Mine spikes at 9.5 and settles down to 8psi and drops off after 6000rpm, is it over boosting?
Will
to be honest - yes it does sounds like its over boosting
problem is - i dont know what they run at standard !!
i have been told that if you completly decat the car - then yes it should run at about 8psi - but im not 100% sure on this
have you any upgrades to the car - or is it completely stock ?
mine never seemed to drop off - but then i was only using the stock gauge in the dash - since fitting the boost gauge - i think i only did about 20 miles before the car was taken off the road :(
im sure the Haynes manual says that its something like 7psi as stock - but doint quote me on that
i will have a look round and see what i can find
ta
stu
right then - this is the best i can find at short notice
" BOOST PRESSURE : Above 4K boost begins , above approx 5K more than 7psi "
thats from the Factory Service Manual
now i also found that the turbo has a pressure of 8.25 PSI - now not 100% sure what that means ( section 4b page 43 )
i hope this helps - but like you - i would love to know what i stock TII runs at ??
ta
stu
right then - this is the best i can find at short notice
" BOOST PRESSURE : Above 4K boost begins , above approx 5K more than 7psi "
thats from the Factory Service Manual
now i also found that the turbo has a pressure of 8.25 PSI - now not 100% sure what that means ( section 4b page 43 )
i hope this helps - but like you - i would love to know what i stock TII runs at ??
ta
stu
Well if it helps i can get two reading.
I\'m guessing my Ic is C**p as there is nearly 1 psi diffrence between a take off next to the Turbo and a Take off on the lower inlet manifold?
But i get roughly 8.5psi.
I was also led to belive it was the S4 that ran 7psi and the S5 ran slightly more but don\'t hold me to that?
Chris
QuoteOriginally posted by grinder
the dual alternator pulley has arrived -
Grinder, where did you get this, \'if you don\'t mind me asking?\'
I belive you get them from Pip at WGT.
the dual pulley thingy - you can either pay Pip @ WGT £45 - or do like i did and buy one from USA from Ebay - cost me £16.67 delivered ( and took about 8 days to arrive )
Stu
Thanks, Saving some cash is always good m8! :yes
Can you shoot me some details on where I can get this at that beautiful price?
rgds
if saving cash is your thing - welcome to my world !!
all i did was search on EBAY.COM for RX7 DUAL - and it came up - the bloke sells them every week - week in and week out ( chap is called Banzitoyota or summat like that )
just bid about $20 - i got mine on a second chance offer - shipping is $13 - but when mine arrived it was only $5 - so thats a bit of a con
at the end of the day though - its cheap enough anyways !
here you go matey
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33573&item=7962045061&rd=1
Thanks m8........... :cheers
Can you recommend a good mortage provider too :D :D :D
well im with the nottingham building society - got a nice little 5 yr fixed rate @ something like 4.59% - so thats only £181 per month
anything else ?