Just thought I\'d put up some pictures I took whilst I was removing the Twins. I\'m putting them up in date/time order, so you can get a rough idea of what order I\'ve taken things out - but this is by no means the correct order!
This job was a complete b#tch!! to do. I think it would be a lot easier if the engine was lifted out of the car, but I didn\'t have the space or equipment to do that.
Cheers
Jon.
Work begins
Jacking the car up took a huge amount of time. Because shes so low we had to use hand jacks and blocks of wood to get the trolley jack underneath.
Got the rear on the ramps, just need to get the front on the axle stands.
You don\'t need to remove the plenum for removing the twins, however I wanted to take it off to inspect the vacuum lines. Most of the pipes under the plenum are well cooked, however there was only one line that was broken, and I broke that off by accident when lifting the plenum :(
A picture from the otherside of the car shows some oil residue in the inlet manifold - I\'ve read it is common to see oil here, so I wasn\'t too worried about that.
Rats nest.
Same spot... different camera angle.
A close-up of beneath the plenum.
round the back...
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The air pump needs to come out.
.
wish i took pics wen i took all mine off,took all day if i remember,
magnetic trays do come in handy,
good job,u goin single r u?
Crazy how much piping there is involved isnt it!!!!!! :confused:
No wonder standard car garages dont want to touch rx7\'s....:rollin
Dan!!
True... the piping is crazy, hence the reason for taking pictures, so I know where things go back.
No, I\'m not going single. As much as I\'d like to I can only afford to have my current set of twins refurbished, since the oil seals in them have gone. :(
More pics to follow...
.
Primary turbo
Got the y-pipe off...
Removed the O2 sensor from the downpipe.
close-up of the vacuum lines supplying the actuators.
When taking the downpipe off, be sure to soak the bolts in WD40 first... they are bound to be rusty.
The rod that connects to the steering wheel (don\'t know the proper name) needs to come out.
If you look closely at the blades on the fan of the primary turbo you can see that the tips are broken off. There is plenty of side-to-side play in the propeller shaft :(
The oil and water lines came off at this point... be sure to drain the sump and water reservoir before hand.
.
To get the actuators off you need to take out some tiny \'C-clips\' of the rods that connect onto the turbo housing. Be bloody careful when getting these outs, you\'ll need a small screw-driver and good eye-sight to find them when they spring-out on to the floor.
Remember to disconnect the oil line to the secondary turbo before you start to wrench the turbo pack out through the top of the engine bay.
You can clearly see the C-clip on the rod connected to the actuator.
You can also see here most of the layout of the bolts that hold the turbo pack to the engine. If you look at the square\'ish cap on the exhaust manifold. There are four bolts on it, the two on the right of this picture are long bolts and go right through to the otherside - they need to come out to get the pack off, but the two on the left can stay in.
And she\'s out....
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Oil, oil everywhere... but none in the sump :confused:
Box of tricks.
Excellent write up and very clear pictures. I have recently removed my twin turbo pack, I dont have to remember how to put it all back though as I have gone single :D
May I sugest that you also remove the LIM and change the gasket while you have the turbo pack out. The early models had a paper gasket, which has a habit of blowing. The gasket is now made of metal.
Good Work Mr Tony Blair :D
I dropped my engine at the weekend, and it took about 25 mins to take the turbos and manifold off with the engine out of the car.
I agree with FD3UK about the Lower Intake Manifold, however it is a bi**h of a job even with engine out. Mine was the old type gasket and had cracked in several places!
Take lots of pics if you do to help me remember when i put mine back together:p
Good Luck
Jon
QuoteOriginally posted by FD3UK
May I sugest that you also remove the LIM and change the gasket while you have the turbo pack out. The early models had a paper gasket, which has a habit of blowing. The gasket is now made of metal.
Thanks for the good advice guys. Sorry about this... but can you tell me what the "LIM" is? Also, which gaskets are the paper ones, all the gaskets I took off were metal.
My terminology of car parts is poor. That\'s why I didn\'t put too much of a write-up on each of the pictures. I would have ended up loads of notes saying "Put the black thingy back on the square twirly thing before you remove the thingyamig". :rollin
I think you should do a write up like that, i\'d understand it perfectly:rollin
LIM = lower inlet manifold, its just above turbo pack and is the link between rotor housings and plenum chamber. This can only be removed with turbo pack off. If the turbos have never been off car from new, it will also not have been removed and will still have the paper gasket. New metal gasket is about £25.
Cheers
Kev
Thanks mate... I think I know where you mean. I\'ve attached a picture with some arrows pointing to where they are??
v.good
I had to replace my gaskets (between the turbo and manifold)
bitch of a job (had been quoted £1000 foir labour alone) did it myself over a weekend.
Now up and running but i\'ve got to do it again as my engine to turbo manifold gasket has gone!
Oh the fun and games
PS I managed to get my pack off with out touching the actuators, i only disconnected the vac lines. It was a bit tight tho!
AndyR
Hi guys,
Thanks for the positive replies ;)
Got a question for ya... any pointers or tips for putting the turbo\'s back? Someone told me to turn the rotors over once everythings back in, but to leave an EGI fuse out, thus allowing oil to circulate back into the turbo\'s before the engine starts up - any truth in this?
Cheers
Jon
u all ways do that on turbo cars,its a good idea to get oil though 2 every where b4 it fired up..proper set of pics u have here,
Noticed from the earlier pics you\'ve got the same wheels as I used to have , don\'t need any spare ones do you ? unfortunatley ones buckled and no where will fix it , hence I bought new rims
Hi mate, thanks for the offer. All my wheels are in good condition, so I don\'t need any spares. If I had the spare cash I\'d take you up on the offer just so I had a spare, but I\'m far too poor at the moment.
Cheers anyway.
Thanks,
Jon
Use new oil gaskets all round. Defo change the intake gasket! If you didn\'t mention it before, it\'s always a good idea to mark the steering joints before disconecting them. If you have an engine crane handy, you can get a lot better access by raising the engine a few inches.
My 2p
Top man for the pics!
QuoteOriginally posted by mattmaclennan
Use new oil gaskets all round. Defo change the intake gasket! If you didn\'t mention it before, it\'s always a good idea to mark the steering joints before disconecting them. If you have an engine crane handy, you can get a lot better access by raising the engine a few inches.
My 2p
Top man for the pics!
Very good advice from the main man Matt, the oil drain gaskets tend to leak unless you use new "springy" mazda gaskets and don\'t over torque them:)
Great pics, but I\'d defintely take the engine out completely if I were to do this job, especially if changing the LIM gasket. Just for ease of access, minimising chances of rounding off bolts and allows you to put it all back together correctly. I managed to remove an FD engine in under 5 hours at the weekend:cool Bet Matt and the gang can do it much quicker than that though:D However I guess it is only really an option if you have a nice big garage and all the tools at hand to remove it in the first place.
good work and best of luck getting it all back together,
Paul:)
P.S. Matt what is the minimum you can get away with removing in order to lift the engine up by a couple of inches to gain easier access to the turbos?
If you take the nuts off the engine mounts from underneath the car, you should have a bit of movement, but I\'d be careful with the oil cooler and aircon pipes, without having an engine bay infront of me, I can\'t think what else might not have much give in it. It would probably be useful to disconect the hanger for the front pipe from the side of the gear box while your under there.
A re-bump for old time’s sake!
This is a job I\'m going to end up doing sooner or later! Is it worth taking the engine out to make it easier and so I can clean/tart the block up a little?
Or is there anything else I can/should do while the turbos are out of the car?
Cheers
Chris
O im dreading ever having to do this job :(
Its actually not that bad to do on the car , hardest part when I did mine was getting the down pipe off and out of the way , ended up having to lift the engine a bit coz mines got a big fat downpipe , stock one should be easier
Good luck :D
Brilliant pics and write up, cant believe I missed this. Oh I didnt actually have an RX when this was done.
Could we have this as a sticky in the tech section please mods? :)
Hi GUYS!!!!!
Can you help, Im going to replace the turbo manafold thing LOL tommorrow, already got a replacement, and kind of know what to do but just wanted to see if anyone has some advice for me.....
Quote from: needhamHi GUYS!!!!!
Can you help, Im going to replace the turbo manafold thing LOL tommorrow, already got a replacement, and kind of know what to do but just wanted to see if anyone has some advice for me.....
put aside the whole day lol, if things are rusty or hard to undo its a pig of a job.. if you can remove alot of it tonite and plaster the nuts in wd40, tomoz should be alot easyer lol..
thanks, hopefully will be ok, engine was rebuitl 8 k ago, so i hope they are not as tight as say 13 years worth of tightness, LOL, Just hope i dont break here LOL
i find doing any work on that side of the engine is easier if i lift the engine up off its mounts about an inch or two....
done be alarmed if the nuts come out with their studs, thats common.
Run a die of the threads on the new manifold and a tap down the holes for 2 long bolts to clean up the threads as well as itll make the torquing down a lot easier.
You may as well replace some of the gaskets while you are down there if youve got the budget especially the 2 turbo-manifold ones to save evr having to do it again.
Thank you very much, will get new ones before i start...
haha...you might decide not to get new gaskets when you see the price of some of them! :)
not a major issue just hope they arnt ,more than 100 each
l ol
nah nowhere near hat...i think the block to manifold gaskets are 50 ish each....and the turbo-manifold come to about 100 the pair. Do you know where your getting them from btw as few places will have them in stock...
not sure, wheres the best place
well i got all my parts from super7autos and they are quite close to worthing as well (Henfield)....even then dont know if he\'l have them in stock! Best bet is to give him a shout on 01903810139 on monday or maybe he has an email thru his website: //www.super7autos.co.uk
JASON,,,,,, at super sevens, Spoke to him the otherday, really nice chap.....
Will see if he has any.,
THANKS again, I Wil have to let you know how it goes..
well im about to do this next week got nice pair of good turbo`s to go on.
whats the gaskets i will need and i also might do the lower inlet manifold if i got time.
I see all your FD guys getting rid of your twin turbos to get a single turbo...mine FC has a single turbo to start with lol hence I went with an FC, plus I don\'t need any cats blocking the turbo lol
Quote from: m1tchI see all your FD guys getting rid of your twin turbos to get a single turbo...mine FC has a single turbo to start with lol hence I went with an FC, plus I don\'t need any cats blocking the turbo lol
Whatever:2Rolleyes And your point is??? Most owners upgrade to a \'large\' single turbo because they either have a good opertunity for a good deal on a single tubby, or they want more than 400bhp which is very much the limit on the stock twins... thats something the stock \'small\' turbo on an fc will never ever do . Also do you really think most of the twin turbo guys on here are running the cat?? and the single turbo guys for that matter??
shhh lol im having a midlife crisis at 21 as I have just bought my FC lol
im not going single and never would.love the kick up the arse at 4.5k.
and i dont have a cat or even centre section to block the gases lol
iv still got me twins n i thought the tubby removal was quite easy to do :)
im half way thorugh this process... just put back the turbo elbow... oh my god. what a ****ing **** job!!! now i need to get new bolts for the elbow... anyone know where i can get some?
Iv just finished removing my stock twins and replacing them with some knight sports ones.
Removal was a brease taking just 4 hrs but fitting was a different matter, make sure you put everything back on in the order you took it off, i put my downpipe back on last as i had to get a new gasket so everything was dun before i got it sorted, the top rear nut for the down pipe i found almost imposible to get in :O
and the front oil return nut was also as hard (both nuts took me about 2hrs each to get in) maybe i was just unlucky.
Also make sure all the nuts on the turbo pack are tight as somebody i know had to do the whole process again as he left a oil feed nut loose and it leaked :|
Anyway the job aint that hard just fiddly and time consuming, but that said it was also very satisfying to drive with nice new knight sports tubs on :D
taking them off was a nightmare for me! however, putting the new ones back in were pretty easy.. just quite difficult to line up the turbos when your working on them on your own with the car only on axle stands!! yeah, almost forgot to tighten up the oil return lines, but when i was fitting the actuators back, i remembered, and got in nice and easy. hopefully not much to do left, but will be interesting to try and remember where all the hoses, etc go!! gave me a good excuse to do a full service also ;)
Yer did mine on axel stands and i did it on my own as well so i know your pain :rollin
Anyway been driving mine for about 4 days now and all is good :D
I also did a few jobs while i was in there, including porting the wastgate on the new knight sports tubs and changing the radiator hoses for nice new samco ones.
Really happy with the results to press but at 1bar i run out of fuel only having flowed stock injectors so i feel a injector upgrade coming along :) as im planing on running about 1.1 bar.
i did this job twice in a week chasing an exhaust blow. Turned out to be LIM wish id done it first time round had some late nights and swollen knuckles but worth it in the end
hey im half way through this crappy job!! can anyone give any advice on how to remove sheared studs from the turbo pack?(can post a pic if need be!) and where to buy new studs from? thanks in advance :D
Presumably these are studs that go into the block, rather than studs in the twin turbo pack? Picks may indeed help.
looking at it its actually one of the studs to the downpipe :)
What were the initial symptoms of the turbo seals failing?
i had oil in the intercooler pipes. there all my symptoms.
Quote from: NurburgRob;524578What were the initial symptoms of the turbo seals failing?
doing this at the moment for the very reason that my secondary has blown it\'s oil seal (working outside in the snow ftw!)
lots of oil in the intake pipes, oil is actually pooling in the secondary inlet pipe. my secondary compressor housing is also soaked in oil. the BOV is also puking out dirty oil, so much so that i\'ve had to put a filter on it to stop it from squirting all over the engine bay.
try a stud extractor, it worked for me
Quote from: pearl_rex;524559hey im half way through this crappy job!! can anyone give any advice on how to remove sheared studs from the turbo pack?(can post a pic if need be!) and where to buy new studs from? thanks in advance :D
Drill the little sod out!
New studs from a Mazda dealer or any of the tuners can probably order them. Think they\'re about £5 each.
How the hell do you remove the manifold from the block :(
The bottom left as you look at it, I cant get a socket, spanner on it due to there being no clearance from the manifold itself.
Paul
in the earlier pictures at the start or this thread, the vacuum hoses that go inbetween actuators (the ones with the rectricor pills in them) are missing??
instead, there are pipes going up to the inner wing going on to a black box?? what is it please? james
boost controller?