My heat light keeps flashing on every so often. It just flickers on from time to time but fairly regularly. The car has coolant, has had an engine rebuild and had a service (inc. coolant change within the last 3-4 months). This happens when cold and hot.
The car is a 94 FD3S.
Any ideas?
depends under what circumstances it does it if u are giving it plenty of boost and it starts flickering then back off a bit.it is supposed to be an indication of poss detonation but best to check with one of the experts ie geoff at reworx or carl at hayward rotary
Its at any time, more so when trundelling along.
Im not pushing the car hard at the mo cos ive a wastegate problem (Hope its that) Car won\'t hold boost, or overboosts when very cold air. But thats another story.
The heat light also acts as a knock warning light, if you are over boosting you could be running lean.......... need I say more - rotary runs lean - detonation - no engine.
Suggest you get it to a specialist.
Other cause for heat light - blocked cat
Dont know your situation iether way you need it looked at.
Steve
My heat light was on and off after i changed my exhaust. Everyone i asked suggested it was reading knock.
Stu
If you have no CAT fitted, the sensor that normally detects overheat of the CAT should be taped up and not touching any part of the bodywork, if it does come into contact with the bodywork, it earths the overheat circuit causing the overheat light on the dash to illuminate. I had this problem on mine, it was tucked away underneath the car but when I went over any bumps, the light would flicker on. I taped it up and the problem went away. Maybe this will sort it....
Car only has a back box and induction kit. The car was also recently down at WGT before this happened. Im surprised if it is a knock reading as this happens when the car is being driven at 1-3K rpm (rpm I mostly drive at due to my suspected wastegate problem) I thought it would only be running lean when the car is being pushed??
"Car only has a back box and induction kit."
Wow, must be noisy!
Have a look under the car, around the CAT or DeCAT centre section and see if you can see the sensor i\'m on about.
Mark.
Will do if I can get my "heed" under the car.
Just spoke to Pip who said that the Apexi ECU uses the heat light as a knock warning light, but im running a stock ECU so this should not be the case.
Might be a CAT on the way out. I hope so!!
can you not keep calling Pip when he\'s doing work on my car :p lol:rollin
Hope you get it sorted i know the cat thing is prevelant so fingers crossed it is just an annoying moggy

lol
Si
QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Burnett
Just spoke to Pip who said that the Apexi ECU uses the heat light as a knock warning light, but im running a stock ECU so this should not be the case.
Might be a CAT on the way out. I hope so!!
My light also came on now and again too. I got it looked at and found the air pump wasn`t working correctly which helps the cat from over-heating. Got the pump working again and been ok since.
Im not sure if you want your cat to be knackerd.. i got a quote for a new one with fitting...£1300!!!!! made me feel sick!
How much!!! A new cat from WGT costs about £400
I was given the quote by Hurley Engineering. They said it was a mazda only part, i never got one but if what you say is right thats a hell of a difference.
Hurleys prices in making feel sick shocker

Si (not shocked......)
Hi Si... I guess your not to keen on Hurley`s either, how come?
You\'ll find out. There is a rather large post on Mr Si\'s dislike to that particular company. With good reason too.
I\'ll let Si post the details on this one.
Just a thought, if it does turn out to be the CAT, then instead of buying a brand new one, get a DeCAT(200 something?). When it comes to MOT time, you can always borrow a CAT for the test.
the original Hurley bashing thread (http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4777)(http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/contrib/ed/laughpf.gif)
Si
Is there anything special about decating an FD3 ??
When I decatted the FTO it only cost 50 quid.
Rich
I took the car out to the garage today so that I could use the pit and remove the back box. After looking into the CAT everythings seems fine. Is the sensors for the cat on the top? Also do you think a lack of a good drive might have caused the stuttering light. To soon to tell but the lights not been back on since I gave it a good blast on the road.
Ref decat personally wouldn\'t do it without power FC or similar mapable ECU. May survive but generally i\'ve heard people say as a guide anything more than 2 mods then get ECU done. Basically if you aint a gambler have ECU high on the wish list IMO.......

lol
Si
Yes Apexi ECU and commander is defo the next purchase.
See the potential group buy Si if you haven\'t got one already.
Rich :)
seen already got :p lol
Si
Light still flickers, the engine note alters when the light comes on. No idea what the hells going on but I am becoming a bit ****ed off as its one thing after another at the moment.
Steve
Not sure.... if you are detecting a change in engine note when the light flickers, could well be a defective air pump, if you have your cat in place [still not sure if you have or not:confused: ] As stated before causes for the light comming on :
1 Blocked cat
2 Defective air pump
3 sensor earthing out
4 Knock reading [if you have a PFC
Prob. missed a couple, but they seem to be the main causes.
Hope this helps:wave
Thanks John,
Yes the car does have a CAT, I removed the back box on Friday and had a look at the CAT, all looked fine.
Not sure about a sensor or the air pump but I\'ll try and find out.
My next question then is, how do I find out if the sensor or the air pump are not working?
p.s. no PFC fitted so knock reading is out.
Air pump has a clutch when you rev it manualy [looking into the engine bay] you should see it engage,if it does not, that would be your problem, the sensor is situated to the side of the cat, make sure the cable is connected correctly, that I\'m afraid is the extent of my knowledge, I ditched both the cat and the air pump before they gave me problems [think of all that weight I got rid of:D ]
I was under the bonet today and the I heard a metal ticking (something like that) coming from around the air pump, as I reved the car it would tick twice. I disconected the electrical lead going to the air pump and hoped that this would stop the heat light coming on. Unfortunatly not :( : reallymad
The engine at idle was then changing note as if the car was serching for the right revs to sit at. The rpms also dropped down to about 400. This problem is really beging to get me well :reallymad
What is the job of the air pump ?
What are the benefits of disconnecting it ? Is that easy to do ?
Rich
Steve,
It sounds like your cat might be blocking up... which means the air pump isnt working properly or the cat has used its nine lives...not definite though...
I have an air pump you can have if you need it mate...
Rich check this link, it should answer your questions..
http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/air_pump.htm
I wouldnt advise removing the air pump until you have decatted the car.
cheers
Donato
No idea whats going on now but the light is staying off (well so far) I did not drive the car for 3 days and on the way to work today the light stayed off?
QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Burnett
Just spoke to Pip who said that the Apexi ECU uses the heat light as a knock warning light, but im running a stock ECU so this should not be the case.
Might be a CAT on the way out. I hope so!!
Same thing happened once my Apexi power FC was fitted, What do people mean by "
Knock Warning"
:confused:
After 2 days of driving short distances the heat light is back. Could this be unburnt fuel sitting in the CAT heating up???
Quote from: mrfitzIf you have no CAT fitted, the sensor that normally detects overheat of the CAT should be taped up and not touching any part of the bodywork, if it does come into contact with the bodywork, it earths the overheat circuit causing the overheat light on the dash to illuminate. I had this problem on mine, it was tucked away underneath the car but when I went over any bumps, the light would flicker on. I taped it up and the problem went away. Maybe this will sort it....
I have this problem only in the wet and under normal driving over bumps etc.
Can you please explain where the wiring is located?
Thanks
Adam