hi. just fitted the new big rad to the t2-rew. temp goes up if i turn fans on at 90 the temp goes down. all good so far.
drove it 135miles and as long as your moving the temp is 85c stop to let temp go up ( no fans ) to 99c then drive the temp falls back to 85c. so its still looking all good right?
what im not happy about is when i came home from the 70mph duel carrageway in to the built up town with stop start traffic the temp started to go up. now as i said i could turn on the fan to drop temp but i dont think i should have to. what do you think.any other car would not need a fan in this weather. nor does my bike.
do fd\'s fans come on in this weather or have i inadvertantly fitted a rotary water heater????????????
It could well be possible that your fans would come on. Remember that a rotary engine runs hotter than a normal piston engine.
Fish
TBH I\'m still confused why temps are this high? why would a -REW run soo much hotter in an FC than in an FD? I\'m just comparing your numbers to the 3 EWP FD installs that I know well of - they all run A LOT cooler than this??
What are other temps like out of interest?
i wasn\'t sure if the ewp was working properly so its now running the stock pump and thermostat. i couldnt get the temp down so have just done some more dosh on a nice large rad and ast with a 22 psi cap.
today was cold so no doupt this was helping keep things cooler than they have ever been but with this rad i have now been able to drive the car so must be on the right track.
the intake temp was about 21c while driving and i took a temp reading off the oil filter when it was statonary, it was about 80c.
the stock temp gauge isnt working and its not marked with temp numbers so im not sure what they run at normaly either.
the only thing i can compare running temps with is the digital read out on my bike. that runs at about 86c in the summer and is reading 83c now its cold out.
the car is running at 85 and im happy with this figure. 20b-boy, are you saying this is too high? what should an fd be?
the bike would take a while of sitting still before its temp would go anywhere near 99c and as soon as you ride allong it would go down. the car gets hot quite quick and when you move off it takes a while to go down.
what do you think. could something else be wrong.
QuoteOriginally posted by t2rew
the car is running at 85 and im happy with this figure. 20b-boy, are you saying this is too high? what should an fd be?
85 is ok - if its a ceiling, but u say it sees 99? A stock FD usually runs between 80-90 I would say, creeping up in traffic. But this is a stock system.
With a big rad and EWP I\'d expect that to drop 10 degrees worse case, a chunk lower again best case.
I forget what temps Max sees nailing it on track - Max?
Are u going to give the EWP another try with your new rad?
QuoteOriginally posted by 20B_boy
85 is ok - if its a ceiling, but u say it sees 99? A stock FD usually runs between 80-90 I would say, creeping up in traffic. But this is a stock system.
this is my point. in trafic it goes up rather quick. any other car i know of wouldnt need a fan to come on for a long time in this weather. fair enough they produce more heat than a piston engine but the water system would have been designed to keep it cool right?? the 99c was just sitting there for maybe 2min without the fan from 85c. if i turn the fan on it now goes down. it didnt do that before but the question is to keep the fd between 80/90 in this weather, are you using your fans?
Are u going to give the EWP another try with your new rad?
yes i will. as i was having trouble with the temp before and now it is not too bad, ill be running it about for a while as it is, before going back to the ewp. i want to be able to have a go in this car. its been locked up for too long and i am iching to go out in it. i think ill do a few hundred miles up and dowm the a10 then start messing about with the ewp. appresiate your help. jay.
85 degrees is not a ceiling
Water temps:
On stock FD the stat opens at 83
usual driving expect to see 83 - 86 ish the air flow through the rad will just hold these temps if that\'s what you set off at and these are nothing to be concerned about.
The temps will rise in traffic (even at this time of year), I have seen water temps up to 99 (even above by a few degrees in heavy traffic) regularly and you should be unconcerned by this as long as-
- it isn\'t suddenly jumping up to this
- the cooling fan is coming in the bring it back down
After one trip to 99, you should find your fans kick in at 95 for the rest of the trip.
Even when the cooling fans come on at a block temp of 95, you will see pre rad water temps in the pipe higher than this as the water is heated then removed towards rad straight away for cooling before re-entry to the block.
From what you say I don\'t think this is unusual - only thing to add is make sure you\'ve got an undertray to force the air through the rad if it is mounted at an angle like the FD - that will make a big difference to how much effect the airflow has.
so your saying that it might actually have been cured :D :D :D
if i set the fans to come on at 95 then thats that.
im just about to go out now in it ill time it how long it takes to goto 95 from 85.
Only my opinion mate, but I think you have no problem from what you describe. Your description is no different to the behaviour of my own car. Remember that not many of us have daily drives and so the rex\'s response to traffic conditions is not necessarily as familiar to everyone.
The time for temp to rise will be dependant upon conditions mate.
If you\'re stationary and have another rex 2 inches in front of you then it\'ll go up quicker than without because the air flowing through the rad will be hotter.
remember that 99 might sounds worryingly close to 100 but the boiling point of your water/antifreeze mix will be above 100, and the pressurised system will raise the boiling point further so you\'re quite safe.
just don\'t remove the rad cap :rollin
Enjoy.
oh yeah - your bike will change temp (up or down) a lot quicker - it\'s engine is much more exposed to the ambient air temp outside of the system - you have to think of the engine bay as a separate environment usually much hotter than ambient outside.
Don\'t know the bike but the block is probably smaller as well meaning easier to dissipate the heat.
Like I said - for a stock system its not that bad. But its a mod\'d car and the whole point with an ally rad and EWP is to run cooler and/or more consistent than stock - therefore 85 on the cruise and 99 in no time when stationery is NOT fine, nor is prolonged heat soak once back on the move again IMO. Jason\'s gone to the trouble of fitting a -REW block and T04 (from recollection) to his TII and is geared to do track days from what I can make out?
Coolant at 85 when cruising is not going to translate well onto the track when the cars being caned! Thats what I\'m getting at. Normal use thru and in traffic (FYI I used my FD to commute in heavy traffic for 18 months with a Defi water gauge fitted, so I have a pretty good idea how coolant temps move in said conditions btw) is one thing, I\'m working on the basis that this scenario is different to that. And more over I\'m just intrigued as to why this instance of EWP and rad etc seems to run much warmer than as do others...
How did u get on today Jason?
R.
OK.
today as each mile went by i started to get more confident in the system as it is. the rad has made all the difference as before it could only be made to cool with water being sprayed on the rad at the same time as the fans being on. thats two fans by the way.
now it cools down with only one fan and i can drive it now without any fans. before i had to have both fans on and all it did was slow the temp rise down.
it has stock water pump and thermostat as i was eliminating the unknowns. i have never had a ewp so didnt know weather it was any good or not. before with the ewp it was best set in the middle of its range. to fast seemed to not have time to cool and too slow was also useless. so at least the standard pump would be flowing the corect amount.
now it seems to be working ok i will put the ewp back in with out the thermostat and see what that runs like.
today i timed how long it took to get from 85c to 95. it averaged 4 mins. then from 97 back to 87 at 60mph took about 2mins. when you look at the actual time it takes i didnt think that was too bad. i think last night it was more to do with me being paranoid about it getting hot.
there is no ducting at all so once i get that sorted the time for the temp to drop should go down. when i was experamenting before i fitted an electric water pump that goes onto the heater hose to give faster heater responce. i fitted it to aid the flow not for the heater responce:rolleyes: when i came home tonight i had it on and that seemed to keep things nicer as well. 87c intead of over 90. this also points that the ewp might be the way to go.
conclusion: t2 rads arent worth a toss, and i think my car is another step to being the fastest t2 at rotorstock:p
before i even started this conversion glen said to me. " dont just do bits at a time . do it all in one go. " i always intended getting a ally rad but as i had spent so much i wanted to put the expence further down the road. it has given me nothing but stress and heart ache and has put the prodject behind at least three months while i have been pratting about. everybody and thier dog has said that the t2 rad looks like it should work but i can definatly say they dont.
im going to be making a fan cowl and some ducting next then ill get the ewp back in. then run it in as quick as i can for carl to map.
look out fd\'s hear comes your daddy
Sounds like things are starting to go your way Jay, good news. Keep us up to date. If the system is well burped then hopefully it will settle down a little.
It will be interesting to see what the score is when u put the EWP back in... ;)
yeah. ill keep you informed on the ewp. im not sure when i will do it. might be next weekend or i might just keep it as it is till i run it with the new ducting. im so happy it works now im a bit scared to do anything else:) (http://smilies.jeeptalk.org/contrib/owen/spin2.gif)
Is there a prize for the most expensive T2 at rotorstock?
Only joking Jay, I am looking forward to a blast in it once your happy its working ok.
Is there a prize for the most expensive T2 at rotorstock?
i hope its a cash prize
just a quick question rich. when taking out the thermostat should i block the 15mm hole up that the stat normaly closes when it opens.
i think its to do with curculation when the stat is closed.