i have an electric water pump with the controller, my question is to peaple with one.
where did you set the controller. on mine it has "run hotter" if twisted to the left, anti clockwise. and "run colder" the oppersite.
run colder makes the pump run faster. don\'t that mean the water won\'t get the chance to cool in the rad before being pumped into the engine again?
I never got on too well with the controller - it proved both unreliable and not good at temperature control - especially during warm up, where temps would go through the roof before the pump would cut in!
It\'s most annoying feature is that should the sensor fail (as mine did), the pump stops, rather than defaulting to full flow.
I had mine wacked all the way to full cold. I now run mine straight off the ignition fed live, so it\'s on all the time.
Max
Hi Jason,
On the ones I have used we have done away with the controller,
Sorry for not getting back to you about it.
Try running the engine with a switch just for turning the pump on and no controller when the temp has risen to normal.
You will need to wire in some sort of failsafe so as to never forget to turn the pump on,like wiring it to the ignition.Make sure the fans are operating too.
Kind regards
Carl
Is it an EWP Craig Davies pump?If so junk the controller,no good at all.As said previously wire it straight to a switch or ignition live.
ok so the controller is crap. shame the man that told me to buy the pump never mentioned i could have saved £80 by not getting it.
but there is still a problem with your advice. my car doesnt like running the pump fast. infact i get better results by running it slow.
the last couple of months worth of weekends ive been trying to get the car to run cool. today what seemed to work best was run the car to temp were pump comes on. cool water from rad goes into engine and temp drops. disconect pump to give water in rad chance to cool. engine temp goes up turn on pump cooler water from rad cools engine down. this works but the temp keeps getting hotter by 1degree untill this method stops working.
its as though, the engine is producing too much heat or the rad isnt man enough. my next port of call is a alloy rad manufactuer but i dont just want to mask a potential problem.
what do you all think?
Is the pump defintely below the bottom of the radiator?
It needs to be as low as you can get it,and below the bottom of the rad.
The pump also does NOT like to be mounted onto anything,rather as the instructions say just mount the connecting pipes instead and allow the pipes to support the pump.
Is the pump running the right way?If running backwards it won\'t work hardly at all.
Kind regards
Carl
pump is not bellow rad its mounted flush with bottom. see pic..
it is mounted to a mount but i have had it running without it , just relying on the pipes and it was the same prob with temp. and i have run the pump the opposite way but no change
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????:reallymad
QuoteOriginally posted by t2rew
pump is not bellow rad its mounted flush with bottom. see pic..
it is mounted to a mount but i have had it running without it , just relying on the pipes and it was the same prob with temp. and i have run the pump the opposite way but no change
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????:reallymad
Drop the pump completely below the rad.Run plain water and try it.
Kind regards
Carl
Taken the thermostat out?
will do it this weekend carl.
max, i didnt have a stat. but it just gets hotter and hotter till i turn off. i then put one in and it made it maintain a temp of 88 for quite a while so have been trying things while keeping the stat.
im thinking of junking the lecy pump and trying the normal one
how do you find the twin elec fans rather than the stock fan ??
my fans are pulling 3000cfm between them.
its hard to say if there better than the stock monster
it looks a lot neater at the front end though
are they aftermarket fans or borrowed from another car ??
how do they know when to start and stop - or do they run all the time ??
stu
( sorry for the hijack )
hi.
fans are from demon tweeks, one 500cfm one 2500. they know when to run when i plug then into the batt:)
once its all sorted ill wire them into the ecu so it can be set to turn on when i want
tryied it with just water today but no different.
i would say that the pump does seem to whip up the water though. im starting to loose interest in the electric pump. if the 80 quid controller is crap and the pump seems to do nothing more than whip the water i think its time to go back to standard. ill be trying the standard pump once i get some more plumming.
what i did do today was run the hose over the rad. on its own it didnt work but with the fans on as well it worked a treat. the temp fell right down, enough for the cold idle thing to kick in.
im going to sort the big rad out now but as soon as i have the pipes to do away with the lecy pump ill try the stock one and let you know how that went.
Hi Jason,
There must be something fundamentaly wrong with the way you have set up things.
Did you drop the pump below the bottom of the rad?That is most important.
The engine should defintiley not over heat if you have done this,maybe,just maybe the system is not filled properly and you have an air lock.That will also stop the coolant flowing and just thrash it around a bit instead.
The coolant must be bled out of the highest point in the system which is not the filler above the thermostat but in the plenum near the throttle where the small rubber hose connects from the back of the engine to it,you must bleed the system from there to make sure it is full.
Kind regards
Carl
i can show you the burn on my left hand where i disconected the pipe on the inlet to see if there was a flow. there is definatly a flow as a nice constant flow of hot water got me.
the bubbles were more obvious in the filler neck on the engine when i had the cap off and the pump on full.
the engine dropped in temp as i said when i had the fans on with cold water on the rad. wouldnt you say that sounded more like rad efficency than air lock??????:confused:
also i couldnt get it any lower than a few mm bellow(pipe length) but have seen these things grafted to the engine were the old water pump is. i did have it loose and moved it about to try to get any air out.
You maybe right about the rad not being up to it but if it was ok on the old engine then it should be on this one at least for running the engine at low power and idling.
Is that an direct replacement rad for an FC?
Kind regards
Carl
QuoteOriginally posted by Carl
Is that an direct replacement rad for an FC?
Kind regards
Carl
are you asking what im going to use? if so im going to get one made. im thinking about 60mm
No Jason,
I was asking where you got the one you have now from?And if it was already made for the car?
kind regards
Carl
rad in it now is t2 rad. i did try the one out the other t2 but no difference