New advert, new price, new info Mazda RX7 FD3s
1994, Registered in the UK in 1998
MOT - July
Tax - July
Here is the spec:
- Standard RX7 wheels with 225/50/16 Tyres on them. All legal.
- D2 coilovers all around. Cant remember the exact model but they are height adjustable without effecting the spring preload and dampers can be stiffened or softened with the knob on the top of the top mount etc. Very good condition. Easily adjustable, no seizing
- Drilled and grooved front discs with EBC red stuff pads all around
- Custom made shotgun exhaust with 2x2.5" exits. Silenced mid pipe but its still damn loud. New about 500 miles ago
- Twin apexi filters
- Non Sequ setup
- Aftermarket thicker ally radiator
- Apexi power FC with commander
- Mapped by Hayward rotary
- Lots of receipts form Hayward Rotary
- Rebuild (approx 15,000 miles ago) No receipts for the rebuild but it was compression tested last week
- Sparks changed less than 1000 miles ago, Checked when it was compression tested
- Newer \'carbon\' effect front seats
- Newer interior plastic panelsI will only PX for a BMW 330/320 Diesel M Sport
Offers around Â£4000
I do still have a garage full of parts left over from my last one, this includes:
- Bonet (black)
- both subframes
- selection of suspension arms
- Blitz nur spec with a busted tip
- Every spare fuse/relay you can think of
and much more
If you are interested in any of that stuff too Iâ€™m sure that we can make a deal.
Im also selling a GSXR 600 K1 with a busted gearbox if you want to get a deal :thumbs:
The car is in Hatfield atm. No test drives without asking price and proof of insurance
This car has a strong engine. Never struggled to start, always warmed up properly and turned off properly. Temperatures stay constant. The compression test has proved that this is still a strong engine even after 15,000 miles.
This is taken off RX7.org
\'\'What compression would generally indicate a healthy engine, or weak one needing rebuild?All compression above 7 kgf/cm2, 100 psi is good (no rebuild needed). Anything below 5.5 is likely to break down when driving the car home. You should not see differences of more than 1 kg between chambers and 1.5 between rotors for a good engine. Unless it has been partially rebuilt, where you can have strange values like 9 front and 6 rear.
This is not an immaculate car. There are imperfections in the bodywork that can be expected from a car that is nearly 20 years old. There is also some rust on the arches, the rear window seal isnâ€™t complete by about an inch but doesnâ€™t leak. The dome on the clocks has cracked (good place to slot pay&display tickets). There is no radio. One of the centre vents is missing its veins but I have managed to fashion it into an ipod holder.
Besides these bits this car has an amazing engine, still pulls like an absolute train and that is what you should be looking for in these cars. If an engine is on its way out; then rebuilds and remaps can cost a fortune. A bit of rust etc wonâ€™t cost that. Even a re-shell is cheaper than a rebuild (not saying it needs one, just stating fact).
The car has never been properly drifted. Iâ€™ve done about two doughnuts after work at pod and it was fine, I just didnâ€™t want to risk my nice road car.
The coilovers that itâ€™s on combined with the power mean that it gives a lot of other cars a run for their money. I love this car and driving it makes me so happy, No huge rush to sell but let me know if youâ€™re interested.
Any questions just email firstname.lastname@example.org Front rotorRear rotor
Thank you for looking :thumbs: