Author Topic: FC3S - FAQ Sticky  (Read 11775 times)

Offline grinder

  • MRC Moderator / MRC Tight Ar$e
  • Global Moderator
  • Major Contributor
  • *****
  • Posts: 10,539
  • Karma: +32/-0
    • View Profile
FC3S - FAQ Sticky
« on: September 20, 2006, 04:39:14 PM »
Gonna start this as a sticky as we have had a few of the same questions recently

Questions :

Answers :

1 - I Have Mixed Up The Plug Leads - How Should They Go
This is a common question so here is how I understand it

Trailing - This is the TOP plug
Leading - This is the LOWER plug
1st Rotor - This is the one near the head lights
2nd Rotor - This is the one at the back of the engine ( bulkhead end )

The Trailing Coil this is the one at the rear of the engine ( passenger side ) - bulkhead end

The Leading coil this is the one near the front of the engine ( passenger side ) - near the battery

So from this we get

T1 - Top plug , front rotor
T2 - Top plug , rear rotor
L1 - Lower plug - front rotor
L2 - Lower plug - rear rotor

2 - What Spark Plugs Should I Use
After some digging around in the manual - this is what Mazda suggest :

Trailing ( Top ) - BUR9EQ
Leading ( Lower ) - BUR7EQ

if you have a modified car - then you can use different plug ( I.E. 10 and 11\'s ) Please consult your nearest tuner for more information

3 - What ECU Should I Have
Seeing that im having a prob working out what ECU i shoud have - here is a list of what i have found on the net

Year/Model (Part number)

The below is US Spec

\'84 - \'85 GSL-SE ( N304 )
\'86 - \'87 All  ( N326 or N327 )
\'88 All, except convertible ( N327 )
\'88 Convertible ( N338 )
\'89 California    ( N350 )
\'89 Federal (non-California) ( N351 )
\'89 California, Convertible ( N352 )
\'89 Federal (non-California), Convertible ( N353 )
\'87 Turbo  ( N332 )
\'88 Turbo ( N333 )
\'88 Turbo, Japan/Euro ( N344 )
\'89 Turbo ( N370 )
\'89 Turbo, Japan/Euro ( N380 )

but then i have a list of ( these are 13B Turbo ones )

I think these are Jap Spec ones

86 - 87 ( N318 ) - Rev Limit 7500 - Made By Mazda
86 - 87 ( N318 ) - Rev Limit None - Made ByMazda
88 - 91 ( N340 ) - Rev Limit 7500 - Made By Mazda
88 - 91 ( N340 ) - No Rev Limit - Made By Mazda
88 - 91 ( N374 ) - No Rev Limit - Made By Knightsports

4 - Will any FC3S indicator switch work in any FC3S

Due to me having probs with my lights i have come up with the following theory

you can only use indicator switches from the same style car so if you have a UK car you can only use UK switches , if its a JDM car - only use JDM switches

I tried a S5 UK indicator switch in a S4 JDM car - it doesnt work properly
i tried a S5 UK indicator switch in a S5 JDM car - it doesnt work properly

im not sure about the actual headlight switch , but the above is defo true for the indicator / head light switch

also the stalks are not compatible from EGI to Turbo II either

5 - I have lost the lid to my fuse box and i have no idea what fuse is what

Here is a picture of the fuse box lid - this covers both the internal one ( by the drivers foot ) and the one in the engine bay

And this is the link to what each fuse protects :

6 - What Are The Error Codes For A S5 RX7 ( 88 - 91) ?

     Code - Input Device - Fail-safe operation mode
         * 01 - Ignition Coil (Trailing) - Trailing ignition pulse cut
         * 02 - Crank Angle Sensor (Ne) - Fuel Injection and ignition cut
         * 03 - Crank Angle Sensor (G) - Fuel Injection and ignition cut
         * 08 - Airflow Meter (AFM) - Basic Fuel Injection and fixed timing (Cripple mode)
         * 09 - Water Thermosensor - Coolant temp fixed at 176F
         * 10 - Intake Air Thermosensor (AFM) - Intake air fixed at 68F
         * 11 - Intake Air Thermosensor (Engine) - Intake air fixed at 68F
         * 12 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Full Range - Fixed at 20% open
         * 13 - Pressure Sensor (intake manifold pressure) - Fixed at 29.9 inHg
         * 14 - Atmospheric Pressure Sensor (Inside of ECU) - Fixed at 29.9 inHg
         * 15 - Oxygen Sensor - Feedback cancelled
         * 17 - Feedback System (poss O2 sensor) - Feedback cancelled
         * 18 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Narrow Range - Fixed at full-open
         * 20 - Metering Oil Pump (MOP) position sensor - Basic Fuel Inj and fixed timing
         * 27 - MOP (General) - Basic Fuel Injection and fixed timing
         * 37 - MOP (General) - Basic Fuel Injection and fixed timing

     Code - Output Device
         * 25 - Solenoid, Pressure Regulator Control
         * 26 - MOP (Step Motor)
         * 30 - Solenoid, Split Air Valve
         * 31 - Solenoid, Relief Valve
         * 32 - Solenoid, Switch Valve
         * 33 - Solenoid, Port Air Valve
         * 34 - Solenoid, Bypass Air Control (BAC) Valve
         * 38 - Solenoid, Accelerated Warm-up System (AWS)
         * 40 - Solenoid, Auxiliary Port (6PI) Valve
         * 41 - Solenoid, Variable Dynamic Effect Intake (VDI)
         * 51 - Fuel pump resistor relay
         * 71 - Injector (Front secondary)
         * 73 - Injector (Rear secondary)

7 - Whats the internal diameter of the stock top hose

The internal diameter of the stock top hose is 38mm
« Last Edit: February 19, 2014, 06:20:32 PM by grinder »

1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth

Offline Skifledanabit

  • Major Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 1,247
  • Karma: +10/-0
    • View Profile
FC3S - FAQ Sticky
« Reply #1 on: March 07, 2013, 12:26:30 AM »
I may stick this in here too. Not my work, all props to

How To Store Your RX-7

At one time or another, many of us are going to want to store our RX-7s. Whether it be for the winter or because of a long term project, proper storage techniques are very important. Improperly storing a car can be one of the worst things you can do to a vehicle and lead to multiple failures when it is put back on the road. Or worse, poor storage techniques could allow the weather, moisture and even rodents to wreak havoc on every system in a vehicle. This document will cover proper storage techniques for the RX-7. Few of these are specific to the RX-7 in the sense that they will not also apply to basically any vehicle. I know this is going to sound like a lot of work when you read it, but in reality you are only looking at an afternoon\'s labor. It\'s a small price to pay when you consider how much damage improper storage will cause.

The first thing to consider is whether the car will be stored long term or short term. If it\'s only going to sit a week or two, then there really aren\'t any special concerns and it can be parked in a safe place and perhaps covered. But if storage is a month or longer the fuel is going to get stale, components will stiffen up and the whole car will start to look very inviting as a home for the local wildlife. My advice is to consider any storage longer then a few weeks to be long term. Even if you intend to only store the car for a month, life has a way of extending that period. Maybe you\'ll get distracted on another project? Maybe another of your vehicles will require attention? Vacations, job changes and just generally the mess that is life can get in the way and suddenly turn short term storage into long term. So many cars have been ruined as they were "only put away for a month" which turned into 6 months, then a year, then two years and so on. Thus, this document will treat all storage as long term. We start with choosing the appropriate location.

Storage Locations

Ideally you will want to store your RX-7 in a climate controlled garage on a concrete floor that has been sealed. Of course, very few people have this option. If you are storing anywhere that moisture can come up from above (unsealed concrete, dirt, gravel, asfault) then you must park the car on a plastic tarp to prevent condensation from forming underneath. Underbody rust from this effect is a major problem as anyone who has ever seen a vehicle stored on dirt knows. Climate controlled buildings will almost eliminate the condensation problem. Common storage areas like unheated garages, driveways and backyards are fine as long as the vehicle is not allowed to sit directly on the ground.Regardless of storage area there are a few things to keep in mind. It should be out of the way so people are not bumping into the vehicle or hauling things past. Heavy objects should not be stored above roof level and your storage area should not be exposed to environmental hazards (high winds, floods, etc.).

The Body

Thoroughly wash the car by hand. Make sure to get into all the little areas and don\'t forget the door sills and wheel wells. Dry the car with a lint free towel or Chamois and then apply a coat of wax. Apply a non-silicone rubber dressing to the door and hatch seals to prevent them from drying and sticking. Lubricate hinges and latches with a lithium based grease, as well as the lock mechanisms.

The Engine

The first thing people think of when considering storing a car. Indeed it is the most involved part of the process since the engine contains many intricate components and internal unprotected bare metal surfaces. These surfaces will easily rust as condensation forms due to temperature changes and moisture in the air.Fully degrease and clean the engine bay. There are many commercial products available such as:censored:Simple Green,:censored:Castrol Super Cleanand:censored:Gunk Engine Degreaser. No matter which product you use you must keep it out of the electrical system and do not allow it to sit on aluminum. Rinse from above with a gentle spray of water.
Pour the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer into the fuel tank. I generally use:censored:Sta-Bil. The bottle has a built in measuring cup and instructions for amounts on the label. You want this to be the first step so the stabilizer will circulate throughout the entire fuel system.To begin, start by changing your coolant. Flush the system if you are so equipped and don\'t forget the heater core. Coolant will become acidic over time as it\'s additive package depletes. At the same time, corrosion inhibitors wear out. This can cause havoc on the cooling passages during periods of inactivity. Start the car and go for a drive to circulate your new coolant and warm up the oil. Don\'t forget to run the heater as you want to get all that stale coolant out of the core.
Before you continue you will probably want to park the car in it\'s final resting place. After the next few steps are completed you cannot start the engine so if the car has to be moved you will be pushing it.Jack up the front of the car and change the oil and filter. Be careful as the engine is still hot. Hot oil flows much more easily then cold oil. Start the car and let it idle for a minute or so to circulate the new oil.With the car up to operating temperature, shut it off and remove the air filter. Start the car again and while holding a high idle (around 1000-1200 RPM) spray fogging oil into the intake.:censored:Fogging oil:censored:is available at almost any auto parts store and is a thick aerosol oil that will cling to any metal parts and prevent corrosion. Continue spraying the oil into the intake by pulsing the nozzle, gradually increasing the amount you are spraying. This will create a lot of smoke as the oil burns off. Finally, when you are down to about half a can, spray a continuous stream into the intake and allow the idle to drop and the car to stall. This will coat the inside of the intake and engine, preventing corrosion on all internal components (rotors, irons, seals, throttle plates, etc.). Make sure to turn the ignition key to off after you have stalled the car.This next step will involve removing the spark plugs so you may want to continue below and then come back here when the engine has cooled.
Remove each leading plug and then spray fogging oil liberally into each hole. Most cans come with an applicator you can shove into the hole and use to spray almost the entire engine. By rotating the eccentric shaft slightly you can get the entire bottom half of the engine and some of the top half. Pulling the trailing plug can sometimes give you access to the top half if the applicator is thin. Once the engine is coated internally you can put the plugs back into place after applying anti-seize to their threads. Apply dielectric grease to the spark plug boots to prevent them from sticking.
Apply a commercial rubber preservative to the hoses for your cooling and heating system. You\'ll be replacing these hoses if you store the car for more then a year anyway but it\'s worth keeping them in good shape if the storage period is less then you expect. Avoid anything with silicone as in the long term it dries rubber out. Try not to get any of these products on the belts since many of them are greasy and will cause the belts to slip wildly when the engine is restarted.
Spray a light oil (for example,:censored:WD-40) around the throttle body linkages. These linkages are designed to operate dry so a light oil is important otherwise you\'ll just be stuck cleaning it up when you unstore the car. WD-40 is useless as a lubricant but is a decent corrosion inhibitor and will evaporate the first time the car is warmed after storage. Also spray exposed steel and aluminum parts. This can be a bit messy but will be worth it to prevent surface rust.
If your engine is not running then you can still complete most of these steps without warming up the engine. Fogging oil can be introduced through the spark plug holes and the oil can be changed cold. If the starter runs you can rotate the engine to circulate new oil. Any unused orifices on the engine (ie. intake and exhaust ports) can be covered with quality duct tape.

Suspension, Tires, Brakes

There\'s not a whole lot to do in this area.
If your brake fluid is more then a year old, change it. Flush the system and then fill with new fluid and bleed. The fluid absorbs moisture over time and you don\'t want this corroding the brake system from the inside out. While you are there, use high temperature grease to lubricate the caliper guide pins and parking brake mechanism. You can apply a light oil (WD-40) with a:censored:cloth:censored:to the surface of the brake rotors to prevent rust. Stick a sign on the steering wheel as a reminder that the rotors are oiled as the first stop after storage is going to be a long one. Use only a light oil for this.To avoid flat spotting, pump the tires up to about 50-60 PSI. Modern tires will have no problem with this pressure but be sure to lower it before driving the car. Apply a non-silicone preservative. Remove each lug nut, apply anti-seize and then torque to spec.
Lubricate any exposed suspension joints with the appropriate grease. If you can find a product called "Cosmoline" it is ideal for coating springs and shocks to prevent corrosion. Honda dealers can generally order it.
Do not set the parking brake as it can stick if left engaged for long periods of time. Instead leave the car in gear and chock the wheels.

The Underbody

Most auto parts stores sell a spray rust proofing oil which can be used to coat the underbody of the car. Moisture can come up from the ground and attack the underside, and any condensation that forms will hang at the lowest point of the car. Oiling the bottom is also important to prevent the exhaust from rusting as a non-stainless exhaust will rust aggressively when sitting.

The Interior

Clean and vacuum all upholstery and carpets. Remove any garbage especially food related (animals will smell it a mile away) items. Give the dash and plastic a good scrubbing with a mild detergent and then dry well before applying a non-silicone based preservative. Don\'t forget the shifter boot.Leather upholstery requires significantly more care. Wash with a mild detergent and then apply a preservative or moisturizer. Many good leather conditioners exist and are available at auto parts stores and leather stores. Avoid anything with petroleum or silicone as it can do long term damage and leave a greasy coating that will attract every airborne particle that floats by. Some of these products are multiple steps so read the instructions.
Grease the seat rails and mechanism with lithium grease. It\'s amazing how quickly that will jam up after non use.Crack the windows slightly to allow air circulation. Closing things tight will allow a musty smell to build that can be very difficult to get rid of.

The Battery

Remove the battery from the engine compartment and bring it indoors. Keep it at a steady temperature and check it\'s state of charge every 6 months. If necessary, top up the charge should you get a volt reading of less then about 11.6V. Avoid trickle chargers unless they are of the "smart" type (ie.:censored:BatteryTender) as most will overcharge the battery and cause sulfation. Never leave the battery in the engine bay as it will slowly drain (if left connected) and cause corrosion issues.


To protect the car from dents, scratches and weather damage you are going to need a cover of some type. Even if you are storing indoors you will want to keep it covered to avoid accidental damage. With indoor storage you can use a thick blanket or inflatable cover like the:censored:Carcoon. Outdoor storage means using a specifically designed breathable outdoor car cover. Tarps are generally not a good idea as they tend to seal in any moisture and may actually cause puddles to form on flat surfaces. They also offer very little in terms of scratch and dent protection. Make sure that outdoor covers are properly secured to the underside of the car with rope. Bungee cords will stretch over time and you\'ll find that in a large wind your cover will disappear. Worse still a cover that flaps against the side of a car can grind into the paint as it picks up dust and other debris. Remember that any storage on a porous surface (concrete, asfault, dirt, gravel) requires that you park the car on a plastic sheet. Do not secure the cover to the sheet as an air space is required under the car for circulation and to prevent moisture buildup.

Rodents and Other Animals

Animals love cars. Especially mice and rats. They can find their way in through the smallest crack and make a truly horrid mess of upholstery, carpet and wiring. If they get into the vents you will never be able to remove the smell. By far I have found the best solution to be the ultrasonic repellers available at most hardware stores. In my experience they are 100% effective against small rodents. Placing moth balls around the interior of the car will also repel rodents, but then you have to deal with the odor of mothballs when you begin to drive the car again. Squirrels, opossums and other larger rodents are more of a problem. If you find that one of these critters has taken up residence in your storage area you may find the only cure to be extermination.

Storage Myths

There are several common myths associated with car storage that need to be addressed.
The first is that it is somehow a good thing to start the car every week or so, then either let it idle for a while or go for a drive around the block. This is in fact one of the worst things you can possibly do to an engine. The main reason is that unless the engine reaches full operating temperature, moisture (a natural byproduct of combustion and temperature changes) and acids (combustion byproducts) will build up inside the engine and contaminate the oil and metal surfaces. Obviously this is not good for metal components and results in increased wear and shorter life. This effect is easily seen by looking inside the oil filler tube of any rotary that was used primarily for short trips as there will be a clearly visible rust scale that has formed. During normal driving the engine generally heats up enough to vaporize these nasties which are then drawn off by the purge system and burned by the engine.The second myth is that a car should be stored on jackstands to keep the weight off the suspension. The theory is that keeping weight off of the suspension will somehow preserve it\'s full motion. In fact, removing the weight of the car will pull the suspension out of it\'s normal resting place and put it in an unnatural state of hyper extension. Keeping it this way over the long term will cause bushings and joints to bind up and the end result may be corrosion building up in the area of normal suspension travel where don\'t want it instead of the unused areas where it basically doesn\'t matter.


A properly stored vehicle will be in good condition when put back on the road even if that time is several years after the initial storage. However there are a few tasks that must be performed afer a period of storage. For more information, see:censored:Removing An RX-7 From Storage, Dealing With Improper Storage.
1989 Gen 2 EGi

Offline Skifledanabit

  • Major Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 1,247
  • Karma: +10/-0
    • View Profile
FC3S - FAQ Sticky
« Reply #2 on: March 07, 2013, 12:30:44 AM »
Removing An RX-7 From Storage, Dealing With Improper Storage

Every spring thousands of RX-7 are pulled out of their winter slumber and put back on the road and/or track. Unfortunately this is rarely done correctly and when combined with improper storage techniques can lead to some real headaches. Here we\'ll cover proper ways to take a car that has been properly stored and put it back into service. We\'ll also cover the common problem of improperly stored Wankels and what can be done with these "field" or "barn" cars to get them back onto the road safely and reliably.

Removing an RX-7 From Proper Storage

If the car was properly stored as covered in:censored:How To Store Your RX-7:censored:then there is not a whole lot to be done when it\'s time to put the vehicle back into service. Good preservation of each system means that only a few replacements or repairs are needed.

The Cover, Body and Interior

Carefully remove the car cover by first removing any ropes that are holding it in place and then rolling it up from each end of the car to the middle and lifting it off vertically. Do not drag or yank the cover off in a grand gesture since you will be scraping any trapped dust or dirt across the paint job. The wax that was applied before storage should protect the paint but you can never be too careful.Examine the body for any damage that may have occurred during storage and make notes of anything that needs to be repaired. Check all trim to make sure it has not loosened up and make sure no insects (bees, wasps, etc.) have made nests between the doors and body.Open the doors and hatch to ventilate the interior before sticking your head in. Check for any animals and remove any mothballs or rodent repelling devices you may have used. Make sure the seats still move correctly and note any faults.

Suspension, Wheels and Brakes

Check your tire pressures and make sure they are within spec. Remember that if you pumped them up for storage you will want to bring them down to a safe level before driving the car. Check to make sure the tires are not damaged or cracked.Inspect the suspension and look for any damage that may have occurred. Check the springs and make sure the shocks are not leaking (do not confuse any oil applied prior to storage for shock oil).Once you are done with the wheels you can move onto the brakes. If you applied oil to the rotors, now is the time to wipe it off. Light oil like WD-40 can be wiped off with a cloth as the remaining residue will burn off the first time the brakes are used but heavier oil may need degreaser.


Thoroughly inspect the underbody for any damage, pinched lines, animals and other debris that can accumulate over time. If the underside of the car was properly oiled then corrosion should not be an issue but do not be surprised to find a light coating of surface rust on exposed metal areas. These can be cleaned up easily with a wire wheel and then painted later on. Be sure to examine the exhaust, driveshaft, CV joint boots and other rubber components.

The Battery

Reinstall your fully charged battery making sure to apply dielectric grease to the terminals and tighten it down securely with the strap. If the battery was properly stored inside and it\'s charge maintained then a jump start should be unnecessary.

The Fuel System

The fuel system is always a concern when taking a car out of storage since all kinds of sediment and gunk can be sucked into the system the first time the pump runs. If the storage period has been less then a year then the stabilizer should have maintained the fuel enough to not have to worry about it. If the storage period has been a year or more then it is a good idea to drain the tank and put in fresh fuel. You can drain the tank by siphoning (do not use your mouth as a source of suction) or by using the drain plug at the bottom. Often the drain is rusted or otherwise difficult to remove so the siphon might be the best option. Dispose of your old fuel at the local hazardous waste depot (generally free of charge). For the initial startup a few gallons of fresh gas should be enough so don\'t bother filling the tank. It\'s also a good idea to replace the fuel filter after the first tank to clear any clogs that may start forming.

The Engine

It\'s almost time to start the sleeping engine but first you will need to do a good inspection of the engine bay. Check the belts and hoses as well as the wiring harnesses, vacuum lines and oil cooler lines. If the storage period was more then a year it\'s definitely a good idea to replace the belts and seriously consider replacing the rad and heater hoses as well. Both are cheap insurance and you will sure wish you had when you are stuck at the side of the road. Make sure animals have not made a nest in the airbox, fan area, under the intake or in the radiator/oil cooler. If the throttle linkages were lubricated before storage they should move freely now but verify by moving them back and forth with your hand. Be especially sure that the throttle will not bind and get stuck open.

The Startup

Since fogging oil is used during proper storage there should be no issues with just cranking the car over and starting it immediately. As a precaution a few ounces of oil can be poured into each leading spark plug hole to help lubricate the engine and build compression. Occasionally it is necessary to replace the spark plugs prior to starting since they may have fouled due to all the oil that has been sprayed or poured into the engine. Also do not be surprised if the engine runs poorly for the first few minutes as the oils burn off and the seals free themselves from their resting places. Expect to see some smoke arise from the engine bay as any lubricants sprayed on the engine heat up and burn off.As the engine warms, thoroughly examine all hoses (especially the oil cooler lines and heater hoses) and seams for leaks. Gaskets like to dry out during storage and this can of course be problematic when the engine is restarted. Common areas are at the metering oil pump, underneath the oil filter and the oil pan gasket. Check also for fuel leaks around the primary fuel rail and pulsation damper area.

Finally, Out Of Storage!

Once you are sure the engine is operating correctly you can finally move the car from it\'s resting place and get it back on the road. Do a walk around to check for anything that may have been piled around the vehicle and remove wheel chalks if you used them. At this point you can get in and carefully drive the car out and into the world. It\'s a good idea to treat the next few hundred miles as a "breakin" period and avoid beating on the car excessively as it is during this period that any storage related failures will show up.

Dealing With An RX-7 That Has Been Stored Improperly

As the RX-7 ages, more and more of them are being found in backyards, fields and barns. Almost none of these cars have been stored properly and can take varying degrees of effort to bring them back into a road worthy condition. Pulling one of these RX-7s out of storage, starting it up (if it starts!) and putting it immediately back on the road is one of the worst things you can do. All the fluids will be old and likely worn, belts and hoses will be dry rotted, suspension bound up, interior in various states of nastiness and of course the fuel system will be clogged with sediment. Correct preparation of the car\'s mechanic systems prior to initial startup are very important and can prevent many headaches in the future. So let\'s begin with a general inspection.

General Inspection

The first task is to walk around the car and thoroughly examine it. Check the condition of the body, interior, glass, wheels, etc. Obviously if the car is seriously damaged or missing major pieces it\'s not going anywhere under it\'s own power so it may not be worth the trouble to start it up where it lies. Check carefully for any insects and animals. Groundhogs, badgers, opossums and other angry creatures love to make their homes under vehicles. Bees, wasps and other pain inducing insects can nest in the door gaps and other sheltered areas. Verify that the exhaust is not clogged or that the car is not parked on highly flammable material.Check the clutch to make sure that it still engages and disengages properly. Often they will stick from sitting.

Engine Inspection

Before beginning any mechanical work on the engine it is important to determine whether it is a good idea to start it. Inspect the engine bay very carefully for excessive rust, missing components or anything that indicates the engine is not in running condition. Pulling the spark plugs and checking for rust is a generally reliable way of making sure there is no excessive moisture in the engine. If you attempt to start a rusty engine you\'re going to do a lot more damage so if you find rust it\'s a good idea to stop if you intend to preserve the engine. A boroscope can be used to look inside the spark plug holes and down the manifold to check for any surprises. As such a scope is rarely available, sometimes even a mirror and bright light will let you look into the plug holes and see any problems.Make sure the external moving parts are not stuck or seized. The throttle blades should move freely along with all rotating components (alternator, air pump, power steering, A/C compressor). If anything is stuck then penetrating oil can often free it up.Pull apart the airbox and make sure animals have not made any nests. Mice and rats love the filter area as it has a small entrance and is very sheltered so often you\'ll find nests that you would rather not have sucked into the engine.

Preparation For Starting

You will likely need a fully charged battery to proceed so make sure to have one on hand. Drain the coolant and flush the system if you have the capability to do so. At this point replace:censored:all:censored:the cooling hoses including the heater lines. Replace the belts as well. Drain and change the oil and filter as it\'s highly likely the old oil is mixed with a good amount of water. Pull the spark plugs and pour a few ounces of oil into each leading spark plug hole and then spin the engine over by hand a few time to lubricate the sealing surfaces. Without this step the engine will have very poor compression as the seals need small oil film to work properly. You may want to repeat this step several times until you are happy that the inside of the engine is thoroughly covered. Reinstall a new set of spark plugs and use new spark plug wires (making sure to remember to coat the plug threads in anti-seize and the plug boots in dielectric grease). Before you go any further, connect the battery but:censored:no not:censored:power on the car. Immediately check for electrical faults.The fuel system is going to require specific attention. As fuel sits, it begins to decompose. After a while it looses it\'s potency and becomes stale. If it continues to sit for long periods of time it will dry out and either gel or become a powder (depending on how long it sits). If the drain plug on the bottom of the tank can be removed (they are normally rusted in place) use it to drain any remaining fuel from the tank into an approved container. If this plug isn\'t an option then you\'ll have to siphon (don\'t use your mouth to create suction). If the fuel looks at all like it was in an advanced state of decomposition (very yellow, floating sediment) then the tank itself will probably need a cleaning. Beside the drivers shock tower in the rear of the car is an access panel through which you can get at the fuel pump flange. It\'s highly likely the retaining screws will be rusted so have fun removing them. Plenty of penetrating oil and an impact screw driver are a definite necessity here. Once the pump assembly is removed (pay attention to the condition of the rubber fuel hoses and replace if necessary) you can get at the inside of the tank with a rag-on-a-stick to remove as much gunk as possible. Afterwards, reinstall the pump assembly using a new gasket and new hose clamps. Fill the tank with several gallons of fresh fuel mixed with injector cleaner (the cleaner is largely ineffective but you might as well use it as it may help out a little). Now you can move to the front of the car and begin to flush out the lines. The first step is to remove the fuel filter and attach a section of rubber fuel hose to the metal line. Place the other end of this hose in an approved container. To run the pump, you will need to jump the diagnostic connector at the passenger front shock tower. It\'s a yellow plug with two connections and you can jump it with as small jumper lead or even a paper clip. Watching your fuel hose carefully, set the key to IGN and allow the pump to run until fresh fuel flows from the hose. At this point you can shut the car off, remove the jumper lead and install a fresh fuel filter in place of your temporary hose. Now some stale fuel will still remain in the fuel rails so you can pull the upper intake an fuel rail assembly to give things a thorough cleaning if you have the equipment and supplies handy. Most of the time this is unnecessary as the new fuel will flush out old contaminates.

Starting The Engine

At this point you can start the engine. First, turn the key to IGN, wait about 5 seconds and then turn the key off. Repeat this several times to prime the fuel system. The moment of truth has arrived: start the engine! Often this takes some fancy pedal work and several attempts to keep it running the first few times. If it doesn\'t start the it\'s time for some troubleshooting. Spark? Fuel? Compression? Sometimes there\'s a reason that the car was originally parked and it may be preventing you from starting it now.With the engine running and warming, check all gauges to make sure they are reading correctly. Pay careful attention to the oil pressure and water temp gauge and shutdown the engine if something doesn\'t look right. Inspect the engine bay to check for leaks, electrical arcing, fires, etc. Immediately cut the ignition of something is wrong since you probably want to avoid dumping all the engine oil or starting a fuel fire. Particular attention should be paid to the fuel rail and pulsation damper area.When you are satisfied that the engine is running as it should, the rest of the car can be attended to.

Getting The Car Rolling

If the car has been stored for significant amount of time then it\'s highly likely the tires will be in no condition for any extended driving. If you are only moving a few blocks then it generally not something to worry about. Any real amount of driving will require proper and safe rubber. In any case the existing tires will be flat so for the moment inflate them to the appropriate pressure. Assuming they will hold air, then the car can be driven or pushed to an area accessible by a tow truck or flatbed.

Final Tasks and Inspection

Now that the car is mobile it can be moved to an area where a thorough inspection can take place. Raise the car and check for major rust damage, missing suspension pieces, loose hardware, missing heat shields, leaking brake and fuel lines, rotted bushings or any other damage. Flush and bleed the brakes and clutch system keeping in mind that new fluid will find any leaks that the dirt in the old fluid has been plugging. While you are dealing with the brakes you might as well replace the pads and many times the rotors need to be done as well since they rust like crazy when exposed to the weather. Repacking or replacing the bearings is always a good idea as well.Change the transmission oil and differential oil. This is most likely the first time those fluids have been changed since the car left the factory so:censored:always:censored:remove the fill plug before you drain to make sure you can actually refill the fluids after you drain them.Walk around the car and make sure that all the lights and indicators are working. It helps to have someone else in the drivers seat to activate them while you verify they function. Most of the time any faults are just due to a bad bulb or corrosion on the sockets.Remove the seats and clean the interior thoroughly. You will be amazed at what you find in the oddest places. Wash and wax the body, then apply preservative to all rubber seals. The seals are likely already too far gone but the sealant will at least help prevent them from leaking in the rain.

Back On The Road

At this point the car should be basically road worthy but it is a great idea to treat the first few thousand miles as a break in period. Drive gently for a while until you are confident that the engine, brakes and suspension functions as designed. After the first few tanks of gas, change the fuel filter since all the remaining sediment in the tank and lines is going to have it almost clogged. Expect to have some failures. It is the nature of any vehicle to deteriorate while it is sitting and the RX-7 is not different. Rubber, bearings and electrical connections are common problem areas when the car is put back into service.
1989 Gen 2 EGi

Offline Skifledanabit

  • Major Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 1,247
  • Karma: +10/-0
    • View Profile
FC3S - FAQ Sticky
« Reply #3 on: March 07, 2013, 10:32:19 PM »
Also, for the entire service manual...

All props to their original creators, it has it on the front page of each PDF.
1989 Gen 2 EGi