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Topics - Skifledanabit

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16
Anyone know the best way to do it?

I\'ve seen a few threads from google on using nitrodol on them, would sandpaper do it?

How about a sandblaster? Or would that wreck the diamond cut finish?

17
2nd generation RX-7's / Body Jacking points
« on: July 23, 2013, 12:38:43 AM »
The body jacking points have collapsed on my FC, i dont jack on those points anymore anyway, on any car, however, in the interest of restoration and future body protection/rust prevention, i should sort them out.

Question is, should i cut them right out and weld in a smooth bit of metal and totally remove them or should i make up a new set?

If i make up a new set, how should i go about bracing them? What should i use as the main point? Possibly a bit of thick walled tube welded onto a spreader plate? What do you suggest?

18
Insuring your rotary / Should i wait?
« on: July 12, 2013, 02:42:57 AM »
I\'ll be 26 tomorrow, been quoted £425 fully comp from sky for being 25, 8 years driving and 8 years NCB on my 98 MX5 1.8. What are the chances my premium will come down tomorrow? Should i bother waiting or will the difference be neglegable?

19
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?index=0&sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=151018885564

After looking at Legnum VR4s, they do seem to be quite expensive to to run. However, we do still want a decently poweful car. One of my friends pointed out previously, there is this Caldina. Basically a Celica GT4 estate. 2.0 turbo instead of 2.5 twin turbo. Question is, is anyone nearby preston able to take a look for me and see if its worth buying or not?

20
Rotary and General Chit-Chat / What Would Make you Slow Down?
« on: June 18, 2013, 11:45:49 AM »
What with all the reports of "safety" cameras not working, not being turned on, not being effective at reducing road deaths, councils are looking at other ways of slowing traffic through their boroughs down, from chocolate teapot "SLOW DOWN" signs, through to average speed cameras going through villages.

I for one, usually drive miss daisy around on public roads, but I admit, there are times I do break the limit (usually at 2 or 3 in the morning in the van, and even then, its not by much).

The question is, what makes you drive slow, or what will make you drive within the limit (if you don\'t already). What would be the most cost effective and productive way to reduce speeds in your area?

Personally, I think more police officers on patrol would not only drastically cut speeds but all other crime as well as putting officers in much better positions to respond to emergency calls. The main problem now is that only 10-15% of workers in a police station are actual uniformed patrol officers that go out dealing with crime, the rest are senior officers, specialist "teams" (that let the uniforms do the legwork), or civilian staff. So next time you get burgled and wonder why it takes so long for the police to turn up, its because neither of the two or three uniformed officers attached to the local police station are available as they are dealing with the accusations and counter accusations of "harassment" of neighbours in the local council estate.

21
Rotary and General Chit-Chat / the dreaded tin worm
« on: April 17, 2013, 06:36:55 AM »
Those of you with FCs and earlier will know how bad it can get.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a good welder near Romford or even a mobile one and an approximate price. The sills are like this...










you may also notice that the NS wing has rotted through where the bolt is and is hanging free, meaning the sideskirt doesn\'t like being on.

Ideally, I\'d like it to be a good job, not just a MOT jobbie.

22
2nd generation RX-7's / Know any good mobile welders?
« on: April 12, 2013, 05:28:19 PM »
I really should get the welding done under the TII before I MOT it, the sills are manky, the sill that runs along between the jacking points is falling apart.

So, anyone know any good mobile welders around/near Romford, Essex? Or willing to travel?

23
Wheels & Tyres, Suspension & Brakes / Mazdaspeed 747s?
« on: April 03, 2013, 04:53:48 AM »
Rare i believe? JDM if that floats your boat, but just how rare and JDM are they? What can I expect to pay for them?

24
I. C. E. & Electrical / head units?
« on: March 27, 2013, 03:15:27 PM »
Its been years since i even thought about head units, so much so that i think the last time i ever conciously looked for reviews for the latest "choon" player was in max power.

So, what\'s good these days? What can they do?

25
2nd generation RX-7's / Rear Window Bead/Seal
« on: March 13, 2013, 08:23:14 PM »
Anyone know where to get one from? Not the seal that the window shuts onto, i mean the one that surrounds the glass with the plastic tab in the bottom middle.

Also, whats the best way to remove and install etc?

26
2nd generation RX-7's / New Toy
« on: March 10, 2013, 03:28:38 PM »





Turbo power baby!

took delivery of her this afternoon, the underside looks in much better condition than my EGi.

Just a few issues, cosmetic mainly, a little bit of ruse underneath that needs cleaning, the N/S skirt needs sticking back on, snapped a bonnet release bolt, but that can just be drilled out and replaced. Had to put my white bonnet from my EGi on it as the bonnet had sold a while ago, luckily I had the old bonnet from my red EGi, so stuck that on the current EGi... it makes sense in my head.

basically needs a good clean up, some petrol, a new battery, then it should be ready to rock and roll.

27
2nd generation RX-7's / Who owns G83 TGK now?
« on: March 05, 2013, 12:40:55 AM »
I swear i remember someone posting up on one of my threads that they now own my old egi now, but for the life of me i cant find it.

Please please please drop me a message if you have it now or know someone who does.

28
2nd generation RX-7's / BOV confusion
« on: March 02, 2013, 12:14:38 AM »
I\'m confused again (i know, not difficult). Doing some research on BOV, i keep coming up with reciprocating and open, wastegates, dump valves, blow off valves etc.

With a pretty much stock TII, only an exhaust i think. Where the hell do i fit what BOV/etc? I\'ve seen some say as close to the TB, others say intercooler pipe, another say where the existing wastegate or whatever it is is.

Anyone got a walkthrough for dummies. Bearing in mind i only reallu know that TB is throttle bodies and AFM is air flow meter.

29
2nd generation RX-7's / Tell me if I\'m wrong...?
« on: February 27, 2013, 01:26:58 PM »
I would prefer you guys to tell me if I\'m right or wrong, I just take offense to obnoxious Yanks doing it... from RX7club...

Quote from: helmetface;11388508
Alrighty so apparently I\'ve been living under a rock for my adult life because I never fully appreciated the power and capacity of the rx7\'s

So I\'ve decided to build one!  I\'m still a ways away from being financially ready, but I\'ve already done a lot of research. .which only revealed to me that I had a lot more reading to go.

Essentially,  I\'m sure of a few things but I\'ve got loads of questions,  I\'d figure I\'d start a thread to get a few basics out of the way:

Goals: track :censored::censored::censored::censored::censored:/weekend warrior. I am unsure of exact hp goals, I would be completely satisfied with mid 400\'s And I intend to Auto X, time attack** and drift on occasion. So my setup will not be tailored to any specific event, I\'m no competitor,  just looking to have fun.

Initially I was all about the cheap power of an LS1, but I am now a rotary enthusiast(I know,  I don\'t even own one yet! ) I will be seeking an FC (leaning to an s4 but would take an s5 as well) and I am hoping I can find one with a 13b in decent shape.  I\'d love a 20b..but the money just won\'t be there with all the other :censored::censored::censored::censored: I intend on buying for the car. As a side note I will likely be running a water kit, what are popular mixes for 7\'s? I know that on speeds most people run 100% methanol.

I\'m looking for single turbo suggestions,  with the above hp goals in mind and my biggest concern is having as little lag as possible. I\'m currently DD\'ing a Mazda speed 3 (Mazda for life) that is making nearly 400 to the wrong wheels with a gtx3071- with this I\'m able to reach 20 psi by 3800rpm when slamming on the gas at 3k...it\'s awesome!

I am also looking for suggestions for tuning solutions. I am no stranger to tuning and I am looking for very capable software, nothing that is too geared towards the track as I want to enjoy this car. (I read that some don\'t allow you to do CL tuning and that bugs me, I\'d like to avoid things as such)

This was all much more long winded than I anticipated,  but I figured my first post should be a good one :)

For those with a short attention span I\'m mainly looking for suggestions for the following:

-Turbo size
-Street or bridge porting(unsure)
-Injectors (I\'m least familiar here and I obviously don\'t want to run out of fueling)
-Anything that will help prolong the engine (besides the obvious not revving the :censored::censored::censored::censored: out of it)
-Anything that will help spool and increasing that low end torque that the 13b lacks.

And whatever else people can suggest! I\'m all ears.(especially links for future reading!)

Thanks


Quote from: Skifledanabit;11388646
A couple of things. Bridgeporting reduces the active life of your engine, wears it out faster, you gain more hp but instead of a 60k mile rebuild (approx) you end up with a shorter lifespan between rebuilds, plis its only really worth it if you get all the supporting mods as well, i.e. ECU, intake, exhaust, injectors etc. Also not forgetting a rougher idle and increased fuel consumption. Street porting gives less hp than bridge, but your engine will last longer use less fuel and technically, you get the bang with pretty much standard, if not basic supporting mods.

Rotary engines love to be revved "the :censored::censored::censored::censored:" out of, in fact, they kind of need it to get rid of any carbon build up, only when fully heated up though.

My opinion would be to find a rotary specialist near you, let them take a look and discuss your needs with them. They will be able to point you in the right direction with regards to your budget. I would also start slow, dont just buy a car and then slap massive power in it, thats a receipe for a crash and a write off. Get used to stock power, then add bit by bit the mods, you never know, you may prefer the more stock vehicle with some basic modifications.


Quote from: diabolical1;11388684


Quote from: Skifledanabit;11388646
A couple of things. Bridgeporting reduces the active life of your engine, wears it out faster, you gain more hp but instead of a 60k mile rebuild (approx) you end up with a shorter lifespan between rebuilds, plis its only really worth it if you get all the supporting mods as well, i.e. ECU, intake, exhaust, injectors etc. Also not forgetting a rougher idle and increased fuel consumption. Street porting gives less hp than bridge, but your engine will last longer use less fuel and technically, you get the bang with pretty much standard, if not basic supporting mods.

Rotary engines love to be revved "the :censored::censored::censored::censored:" out of, in fact, they kind of need it to get rid of any carbon build up, only when fully heated up though.


while i\'ll be blunt here, i\'ll try not to come off as mean. however, 90% of this is rubbish ... or at least, it should be prefaced with some qualifier or something.

1. if a bridge is built right, and cared for appropriately, it will last. if a bridge is turbocharged and TUNED right, and cared for appropriately, it will last.

2. to a certain extent, if your goal is to build a 400+ HP rotary, i think you\'ve already made the decision to forfeit gas mileage regardless of porting. however, you are correct that a bridge will consume more, relative to streetports and stock ports.

3. careful tuning is required for horsepower and reliability regardless of porting. there will probably be nothing "basic" about 400+ HP streetport.

4. on the same turbo, the bridgeport, indeed, should yield a relatively better powerband and quicker spool. however, it will obviously also be somewhat more obnoxious.

5. as for revving, it\'s neither here nor there. once turbocharged, the NEED to rev higher to make power has been quashed.

Quote from: Skifledanabit;11388646
My opinion would be to find a rotary specialist near you, let them take a look and discuss your needs with them. They will be able to point you in the right direction with regards to your budget. I would also start slow, dont just buy a car and then slap massive power in it, thats a receipe for a crash and a write off. Get used to stock power, then add bit by bit the mods, you never know, you may prefer the more stock vehicle with some basic modifications.


this is sound advice.


Quote from: Skifledanabit;11388646

Quote from: diabolical1;11388684
while i\'ll be blunt here, i\'ll try not to come off as mean. however, 90% of this is rubbish ... or at least, it should be prefaced with some qualifier or something.

1. if a bridge is built right, and cared for appropriately, it will last. if a bridge is turbocharged and TUNED right, and cared for appropriately, it will last.

2. to a certain extent, if your goal is to build a 400+ HP rotary, i think you\'ve already made the decision to forfeit gas mileage regardless of porting. however, you are correct that a bridge will consume more, relative to streetports and stock ports.

3. careful tuning is required for horsepower and reliability regardless of porting. there will probably be nothing "basic" about 400+ HP streetport.

4. on the same turbo, the bridgeport, indeed, should yield a relatively better powerband and quicker spool. however, it will obviously also be somewhat more obnoxious.

5. as for revving, it\'s neither here nor there. once turbocharged, the NEED to rev higher to make power has been quashed.


1. On average, to a layman, who is not someone who meticulously services their car and follows all correct start and stop procedures, a bridgeport is more likely to have issues than a street or stock. I wasn\'t stating that was the case for all.

2 + 3, I wasn\'t taking into account 400+hp, I was thinking of initial work that will eventually lead to possibly 400+hp. I was stating that bridgeporting will require more supporting mods compared to street or stock in order to ensure a free and even flow of air/fuel. (bigger injectors, which aren\'t exactly required for street or stock ports, otherwise all you are doing is wasting fuel).

4. right, ok.

5. regardless of whether you have a turbo or not, there will still be carbon build up which will still need to be removed by a high rev or two, revving for the sake of power was never entered into it.


From a PM

Quote from: helmetface
Sorry what\'s the deal I can start a thread but can\'t post a reply til I hit 10 posts? Lol a bit redundant. I\'ll paste my reply here as I wasn\'t able to in the thread.  Feel free to answer in the thread for a free bump :)

Very insightful post skilled, thanks for taking the time to elaborate.

I\'m curious,  what kind of power difference are we looking at between the porting options? With the supporting mods in mind of course

Thanks again!


I\'m really only experienced with EGi\'s with UK setups, but I am versed with the TIIs. I\'m sure if you search the forum, you will find all the info you require. Seeing as different people get different supporting mods which give different results, its hard to say how much power you can expect from each port.

Do not forget to take a read through this... http://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-faq-fc-494667/

as it gives a lot of information and link to helpful topics.

As I said, many people have tried many different things that have or have not worked, something that may have worked for one person may not work for another. So in order to please people who immediately call bull, just keep an open mind and decide which route you want to take. It is not a quick job and you should do all the research you can.

30
2nd generation RX-7's / History of MLZ9584
« on: February 24, 2013, 04:14:51 PM »
i know it from somewhere... Anyone got info on it? Not sure if the Reg is 100% accurate though.

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