Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - jpc

Pages: [1]
Insuring your rotary / Towergate / Competition Car Insurance
« on: October 20, 2015, 09:18:11 AM »

I've been using Competition Car Insurance (= Towergate, Underwriter = Aviva) for the last two years.  Quotes was £296.50 for my 2000 RS (no mods). Best quote for a long time, includes 5 track days.

Rotary and General Chit-Chat / 50K miles, deserved a bit of TLC
« on: March 29, 2012, 03:32:19 PM »
My standard 2000 RS hit 50k miles this week so I had all the little things sorted, paint touch-ups, belts replaced and a good service at WGT. Its not needed anything other than service items since new.

I thought it would be a good time to get the compression test done to see how much life there is left in it and put it on dyno.  

Compression was 7.0 +/0.1 on all rotors. Power was 265rwhp, 300-310 flywheel.

These cars are fantastic. I use it most days, even on the school run.

RX-8 News and Information / Renesis in MX5
« on: February 23, 2010, 03:26:14 PM »
I already have an RX7 and thought it would be fun to get my MX5 rotorised. It\'s currently up at WGT getting the existing engine removed in preparation.

The basic plan with the engine is

- Used series 1 engine from a low mileage rolled car, will be compression tested
- Decat, custom exhaust and intake to fit MX5 engine bay (pre-95 import so legal for MOT)
- Washer bottle for TCW3 supply to oil metering pump (managed by EOMP controller, AUS company)
- Adaptronic ECU, mapped for V-power, 99 octane
- Lots of sensors (Wideband, oil/air/water temps, MAP)
- MX5 alternator and P/S pump (possible depower the rack)
- Walbro fuel pump
- PWR race radiator
- Oil cooler may be front-mounted or a oil/water laminova core (TBD)
- A/C removed

So some questions for the experts here:

- Given the fact that I can set the oil metering rate with a standalone, do I still need to premix?

- Before the engine goes in, are there any useful hp gains to be had with port matching, polishing or anything else without opening up the block?


General Technical / BHP of stock 13B 1995 RS?
« on: May 29, 2008, 07:15:57 AM »

What was the real-world fly bhp of the standard FD (1995)? I know the official Jap spec was 255bhp (237 for UK).

The reason I\'m asking is that I had this email (below) from somebody trying to sell their 1995 RS as 300+bhp standard, seemed very suspect to me. I thought the 95 RS was just a suspension/brake change from the standard car rather than any engine related difference.


email> we all know that a japanese spec vehicle is always higher in bhp than the officially released figures, due to japanese car laws they are not allowed to produce cars with excessive horsepower, due to emission rules and regs, they are always less than in reality.  The TYPE RS in this case is a proven 300+BHP car from new, these figures were produced in Japan after the release of the FD third gen engines in 1992 when the engine upgrades were added to the better higher graded cars such as the type RS gen 3 like the one we have.  The extra hp on the type rs was not achieved by turbos or exhausts but by more advanced mapping techniques as their tech improved in Japan.

General Technical / Boost pattern query
« on: March 14, 2008, 08:51:22 AM »
After I recent service for my unmodified 2000 RS, I put on a Gtech meter and the results were a repetable 276-278 bhp at the rear wheels (320fly?). That\'s odd I thought, its only supposed to be around 240 on a dyno and less due to wind/road resistance so should have been say 230.  (99+ R/RS use slightly better turbos for 280PS from the factory).

The other odd thing is that the boost gets up to 14psi (10kPa) as measured on the dash boost gauge (standard on this model). This was when flooring it in 2nd year, it does the same in higher gears on the motorway.

I know the Gtech meter is reasonably accurate, I have been using it on another car and the results line up with the various mods that have been done.

The RX7 is unmodified, still with the original exhaust/intake etc.

So, the questions are:

(1) What is the standard boost pattern for the stock twins? (99+ R/RS turbos). I know the pattern for the pre-99 twins was 10-8-10psi.

(2) If the boost is showing 14 psi, is this a fault? (gauge/solenoid?).

(3) Did Mazda just quote the 99+ R/RS at 280PS to match the showroom
    limit and in reality its a bit more?

Thanks for any advice.


Insuring your rotary / Britannia mechanical insurance
« on: May 02, 2007, 11:44:47 AM »
I noticed Britannia Rescue are now doing a mechanical insurance for £45. Basically, if something mechanical/electrical breaks, you are covered for up to £500 parts and labour. (unmodified components only, and not for wear and tear items, any age/mileage).

Seems like a reasonable bet to me. Since a rebuild costs a few £K, any little helps.

How reliable should a well-maintained, unmodified FD3S be? (If there are any left).


Insuring your rotary / £439 fully comp, 5Kmiles, 37yr old.
« on: July 10, 2006, 03:01:55 PM »
Privelege Insurance came up with a good deal on a 2000 RX7 type RS. (just picked it up at the weekend)

Full NCB with no convictions
37 yr old, married (Wife as named driver reduces the premium!)
5000 mile annual limit (didn\'t affect price much)
CAT1 alarm and tracker fitted (required by underwriters)
No modifications, garaged.
SDP/Commute usage
Standard excesses.

£439 fully comprehensive.

The interesting bit is that the RX7 will be a 2nd car so most insurance companies force you to start from 0yr NCB.  After phoning to cancel my exiting policy for a supercharged MX5, they let me have full NCB on BOTH cars (only one will be transferable in future). This works out way cheaper than other quotes received, even when putting the MX5 on classic car insurance.


Pages: [1]